Fortress, harbour city and commercial centre

1. The Cathedral of St.John located along St.John's street is a prime example of the Baroque style prevalent in Mediterranean countries 300 years ago. The walls and the floor entirely covered with marble, the hanging handmade tapestries and the sculptured gravestones of the Grand masters interred in the cathedral are just a few of the attractions inside.
2. Republic street from City gate to the palace of the President of the Republic is lined with an abundance of chic shops, top restaurants and cafés. A short distance away along Merchants' street, a daily flea market is the chief attraction.
3. The Upper Barracca is a lookout point which offers excellent views of the Grand harbour, the Cottonera area, fort St.Angelo and the Malta drydocks.
4. The exterior works of art which decorate Auberge de Castille are prime examples of elaborate stone carvings that fill up numerous facades in Valletta. Built by the Spanish Knights of St.John, Auberge de Castille is now occupied by the office of the Prime minister.
5. Unique to Valletta, numerous dark green wooden balconies contrast with the local white stone that has been used since medieval times for the construction of buildings in Malta. Don't miss the beautiful balconies that embellish the exterior of the palace of the President along Republic street.

Quick Tips:

1. There are numerous accommodation options from which to choose. These range from luxury hotels to single bedroom apartments. Accommodation is cheap compared with Western Europe. It's better to look for accommodation yourself than to use the services of an agent.

2. Eating in top restaurants may be expensive, even if you opt for local food. But once in Malta, don't miss trying a dish of rabbit stew which you'll definitely find tasty and delicious. Those more daring should opt for a dish of bragjoli, a Maltese delicacy consisting of meat rolls stuffed with a mixture of herbs, boiled eggs and cheese.

3. Snack bars and fast-food outlets have filled up every corner of Malta's capital. They serve the usual meat or fish burgers and obviously do not give you the opportunity to taste Malta's vast and rich cuisine.

4. Malta's wine scene has recently improved and local wines are now in a position to compete with the best wines from Tuscany. Try 'Gellewza rosso', a dry variety produced from grapes grown in sun-drenched vineyards located along the west side of the island.

Best Way To Get Around:

1. Valletta can be covered on foot in just a couple of hours. Republic street where most attractions are concentrated is pedestrianised; so it's useless using transport within the capital.

2. Malta's main bus station is located outside City gate. From here, frequent buses depart to all towns and villages. No trip takes more than 1 hour since distances are never longer than 20kms.

3. The buses usually frequented by tourists are:

Bus 49 which travels from Valletta to Qawra.

Bus 62 which travels from Valletta to Sliema.

Bus 45 which travels from Valletta to the Gozo ferry.

Bus 80 which travels from Valletta to Rabat from where the old capital Mdina can be reached in a couple of minutes.

4. Taxis are very expensive while buses are both cheap and good. An ordinary bus fare never costs more than £M0.25 (less than US). However note that buses are usually crowded especially during peak hours.

5. Bus 8 runs from Malta's international airport to Valletta every 15 minutes. The bus picks up passengers from the stop just outside the arrivals hall.

Conveniently located a stone's throw away from Valletta City gate bus terminus, Hotel Phoenicia is a five-star place of accomodation which provides clients with comfort and refinement. Formerly owned by Forte Hotels, it has recently been bought by Le Meridien chain. Fully redecorated with no expense spared, Hotel Phoenicia is definitely one of Malta's best hotels.

The hotel's majestic entrance overlooks a small park whose central walkway is lined with rows of trees and hedges. The rooms on this side provide excellent views of Malta's Grand harbour and fort St.Angelo. However, being so close to the hustle and bustle of city life, these tend to be too noisy and should be best avoided. Much more peaceful are the rooms which overlook the hotel's extensive back garden. These provide gorgeous views of Marsamxett harbour and the Sliema area. Add to these views the open-air balcony where you can relax while looking at an endless profusion of flowers and greenery and you will understand why a room here is an experience long remembered.

Hotel Phoenicia's rooms and elegant reception area reflect the atmosphere of days gone by. Have a look at the fine stucco work and the antique furniture that decorate the reception area and the ground floor restaurant. More classic furniture and traditional decorations await you once you choose a room here. The most expensive rooms boast gilded antique furniture and fine paintings. This traditional atmosphere of luxury is further sustained inside the high-class bathrooms where the style of days past has been perfectly combined with modern amenities. Antique-style accessories are fitted to whirlpool baths to provide clients with an ideal blend of style and comfort.

The main restaurant on the ground floor provides space for 300 diners. Elegantly furnished, it is the place where you can combine great food with an atmosphere of luxury and refinement. Live band music every evening, a long menu that displays a wide variety of top-class food and an excellent service are 3 reasons why you should dine here. Add to these the varieties of foreign and vintage wines available and you will understand why dining here is an unforgettable experience. Every morning this restaurant becomes the venue for a great buffet breakfast which is definitely a manifestation of delicious food and plenty of everything. Fresh fruit, cereal, cakes, hot dishes and more are provided in endless profusion.

If you're lost inside Hotel Phoenicia's huge restaurant, you can opt to dine in the Green Lounge, a small restaurant and relaxation area where priority is given to personal attention. The atmosphere here is more subdued and obviously there's no music. However, the service is again the best you can ever experience.

There's no limit to the luxury and the excellent service provided by Hotel Phoenicia's highly trained staff. Add to these the atmosphere which you can taste inside the Pegasus bar and the superb floor service for which Hotel Phoenicia is renowned and you will understand why clients who come here once will definitely come again.

Defeated during the Turkish siege in 1522, the Knights of St.John, known as the Knights Hospitallers were forced to leave the island of Rhodes. After 214 years residing in Rhodes where they developed a great military and naval base, the knights were in search of a new home. King Charles V of Spain, Holy Roman Emperor was generous enough to give the knights refuge in Malta with permanent sovereignty over the whole island. The Act of Donation, a historical document of great importance can be seen inside the National Library in Valletta.

Upon their arrival in Malta in 1530, the knights opted to settle on one side of the Grand harbour, an area which was already inhabited to some extent by the local population. Here they built their first residences, a fortress and a stretch of defensive walls. This area later known as the 'Three Cities' became the seat of the Order. However, 35 years later, the Turks who ousted the knights from Rhodes besieged Malta. For 4 months, the knights hand in hand with Maltese civilians fought a bloody defensive war led by the 70 year old Grand master Jean de La Valette. Although the knights were finally triumphant, the losses in terms of deaths and destruction were huge.

Wary of what may happen in the future and fearing that the Turks would return to avenge the defeat, the knights aided financially by European rulers and the Catholic church set on building a new city where security and comfort would have priority.

Jean de La Valette laid the foundation stone of the city in March 1566 but it was not until February 1569 that Grand master Pietro del Monte, La Valette's successor established a commission to draw up plans and designs for the new city. Francesco Laparelli, an expert on fortifications and a leading urban designer of the time was sent by the Grand Duke of Tuscany to review and report on the design of the city. The plan was based on a grid of streets and a ring of fortifications. Named Valletta after the Grand master Jean de La Valette who died peacefully while the project was taking shape, the Renaissance-style city grew rapidly.

In 1571, the knights transferred their seat of power from the 'Three Cities' to Valletta. The initial architectural work of Laparelli was taken over by a Maltese architect and military engineer Girolamo Cassar who carried on where Laparelli left off. Among the first buildings to be erected were the Cathedral of St.John in 1573, the hospital of the Order in 1573 and the palace of the Grand master.

Designed by Girolamo Cassar, the Cathedral of St.John has a plain modest exterior but once inside, a wealth of artistic treasures and decorations await you. Most of the artistic works inside are attributed to Mattia Preti, a 17th-century Italian artist who spent 30 years of his life decorating the churches of Malta. Enter the cathedral's oratory to see the most valuable and wonderful sacred painting in Malta: Caravaggio's 'Beheading of St.John'. Having just been meticulously restored in Florence, this priceless treasure is a landmark of 17th-century sacred art. There are also many artistic works inside the cathedral's museum, the highlight being 'St.Jerome', another masterpiece by Caravaggio. Upstairs, the museum houses sacred vestments and handmade tapestries of great beauty.

The Grand master's palace is a huge two-storey building that occupies a whole block and borders four of Valletta's principal streets. One of its fine arched entrances leads into Neptune's courtyard, named after a bronze statue of Neptune which together with 5 marble coat of arms adorn the courtyard. The other opens into Prince Alfred's courtyard named in memory of Prince Alfred who visited Malta in 1858. Apart from these two courtyards, most of the palace is kept closed indefinitely. However, you can visit the excellent Armoury housed on the ground floor at the back side of the palace. Highlights inside include the Grand master's carriage, the full suit of armour of Grand master Alof de Wignacourt, two showcases containing Turkish weapons and a wide impressive array of decorated helmets, breastplates and back plates. Today a section of the Grand master's palace is used to house the Maltese Parliament and the office of the President.

The hospital of the Order, built on the eastern tip of the city was used by the knights to treat the sick. The former hospital's main ward was transformed into the Mediterranean conference centre, an excellent setting for conferences, concerts and banquets. Part of the hospital houses the Malta Experience, an audio-visual walk along Malta's past with multi-lingual commentary available on headphones. Don't miss it!

In Valletta, there are numerous other residential structures, churches and forts that were constructed during the era of the knights from 1530 to 1798. Most noteworthy is Fort St.Elmo constructed at the very tip of the city overlooking the Grand harbour from the east and Marsamxett harbour from the west. The defensive walls which surround Fort St.Elmo are a beauty of unique architecture though they require urgent restoration. The National Museum of War housed in a section of the fort is worth visiting for its excellent war memorabilia and authentic furnishings.

The majestic auberges which were the former living quarters of the knights have Baroque architectural details in stone that are amazingly beautiful. Don't miss the wonderful exterior architecture of the facade of Auberge de Castille which is used today to house the office of the Prime minister.

Less than 8kms northwest of Malta, the sister island of Gozo, much smaller and less densely populated is a haven for those who want to escape for a day to enjoy the greenery and relaxed atmosphere of small secluded villages, serene countryside and rocky seashore. A very efficient day and night ferry service links the two islands. From the ferry, a stone's throw away, you can see the tiny deserted island of Comino whose crystal clear surrounding sea is often exploited by snorkelers and scuba divers.

From Valletta's City gate bus terminus, Bus 45 reaches the ferry terminal at Cirkewwa, now under reconstruction in about 1 hour. The bus trip gives passengers the opportunity to pass through the village of Mosta which is renowned for its huge Rotunda church. It continues through the seaside fishing village of St.Paul's Bay before making its way through the picturesque village of Mellieha.

Even before the ship reaches the small harbour of Mgarr in Gozo, you already have the opportunity to enjoy typical Gozo scenery: green hills, church steeples, white cliffs and numerous typical fishing boats anchored alongside the Mgarr pier.

From Mgarr harbour, take the frequent bus to Gozo's capital Victoria where most historic attractions are concentrated. On the way, it is advisable to stop for a historic preview at 'Gozo Heritage', a 20 minute audio-visual tour of the island's history and prehistory, complete with light and sound effects. In the adjoining souvenir shop, you can see local craftsmen at work. On reaching Victoria's bus station, head towards the main square lined with residential buildings and shaded with old trees. The main square, officially called Independence square but colloquially known as 'it-Tokk,' is the venue for a crowded daily outdoor market where fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers and souvenirs are displayed for sale.

In another square south of Independence square, St. George's Basilica built 4 centuries ago but enlarged and restored several times houses numerous artistic works worth seeing. The highlight is Mattia Preti's painting 'St.George and the Dragon' above the high altar. From here, walk along narrow meandering streets towards the Citadel, a ring of thick defensive walls constructed around a hill from where the view of Gozitan church steeples, domes and towers is unforgettable. Enter the nearby 17th-century cathedral dedicated to the Assumption. Adorned with numerous priceless paintings and works of art, this is one of Gozo's highlights you shouldn't miss. The dome which gives an impression of immense height is just a trompe l'oeil, a flat painting attributed to the Sicilian artist Antonio Manuele. The adjoining Cathedral museum houses numerous ecclesiastical works of art which include silverware, church vestments and a unique bishop's carriage. Downhill from the cathedral, the Museum of Archeology provides information about the Ggantija Temples, one of the world's oldest buildings. You can also see a vast exposition of Carthaginian and Roman remains together with numerous stone carvings.

From Victoria's bus station, you can take a bus to Ta' Pinu, a 20th-century church which has replaced a small chapel since the 1920s. The elaborate interior sculpture in stone is wonderful; more wonderful is the architecture of the slender free-standing bell tower. The church is a pilgrimage site visited by the locals all year round. If you still have an appetite for church architecture, visit the Church of St.John the Baptist in the village of Xewkija. Built between 1951 and 1971, it is a circular colossal stone structure of immense proportions. You can't miss it; its imposing dome is seen from everywhere, even from Malta's north towns and villages.

If you want to relax away from attractions and sights, why don't you take a bus to the coastal village of Xlendi? The narrow bay, lined with typical village houses, hotels, restaurants and outdoor cafes is a top venue for swimming and sunbathing. Better and more picturesque is Dwejra Bay, a peaceful shallow lagoon protected from the open sea by a stretch of cliffs. A natural arch carved out of the rocks called the Azure window connects the lagoon with the sea. You can swim out through the arch to the open sea or you can take a boat trip around the splendid coastline nearby. Another beach resort which was recently developed into a top tourist venue is Marsalforn. Stroll along the wonderful promenade lined with pubs, restaurants and souvenir shops or venture further west to reach the Qbajjar salt pans, a place where sea salt has been produced since the times of the Romans.

Before taking the ferry back to Malta, be sure to taste Gozo's unique delicatessen. Called 'gbejna', it is a popular variety of local goat's milk cheese deliciously sprinkled with black peppercorns. Or why don't you try the Gozitan cheesecakes, stuffed with ricotta and excellent with a cup of espresso or capuccino? A bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay produced from Gozo's fertile vineyards is perhaps the best product to take back home.

A new bus service that gives you a good orientation of what Malta is like has just been introduced by the Malta Bus Transport Association. Aimed primarily at tourists and called 'Visitmalta', this service follows two routes, both operating from the Sliema ferries bus terminus which you can reach from Valletta by frequent scheduled Bus 61 or 62. Once you are in Sliema, you can choose either Route 505 which takes in the north section of the island or Route 506 which covers the towns and villages in the south. The bus ticket for either trip can be bought from the driver or from the ticket booth at the Valletta City gate bus terminus and costs £M2, equivalent to about US$6.

Besides being both enjoyable and interesting, the trip which lacks a much needed commentary runs along streets which contain the best sights and attractions. The bus stops at numerous locations where tourists are given the opportunity to visit places of interest and then continue on the next 'Visitmalta' bus. It is advisable to buy a good street map either from a stationery store or from the Tourist Information Office housed inside the City gate arcades at Freedom square, Valletta. (Tel: 00356 21237350 or 00356 21237328).

Six buses run daily along each route, following this timetable:

ROUTE 505 departure times:

From the Sliema ferries bus terminus – 9:15am, 10:30am, noon, 1:15pm, 2:45pm, 4pm.
From the Qawra bus terminus – 9:50am, 11:05am, 12:35pm, 1:50pm, 3:40pm, 4:35pm.
From the Rabat bus terminus – 10:15am, 11:30am, 1pm, 2:15pm, 3:45pm, 5pm.
From the Mosta church bus stop – 11:00am, 12:15pm, 1:45pm, 3pm, 4:30pm, 5:45pm.
Arrival at the Sliema ferries bus terminus – 11:28am, 12:43pm, 2:13pm, 3:28pm, 4:58pm, 6:13pm.

ROUTE 506 departure times:

From the Sliema ferries bus terminus – 9am, 10:00am, 12:15pm, 1:30pm, 3:30pm, 4:45pm.
From the Siggiewi centre bus stop – 9:50am, 10:50am, 1:05pm, 2:20pm, 4:20pm, 5:35pm.
From Marsaxlokk – 10:30am, 11:30am, 1:45pm, 3pm, 5pm, 6:15pm.
From Cottonera – 11:10am, 12:10pm, 2:25pm, 3:40pm, 5:40pm, 6:55pm.
Arrival at the Sliema ferries bus terminus – 11:50am, 12:50pm, 3:05pm, 4:20pm, 6:20pm, 7:35pm.

1. One of the best places to stop along the north route is Mdina, Malta's preserved medieval capital where the historic atmosphere can be tasted in its ring of thick defensive walls, its narrow meandering walkways, its tiny squares and in the numerous old buildings that are tucked away within the most unexpected locations. The Baroque 17th-century Mdina Cathedral, work of the renowned Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa has splendid architecture inside and out. Its magnificent dome and ornate towers can be seen from miles away while its interior houses numerous paintings and frescoes attributed to the Sicilian painter Mattia Preti. The Cathedral museum, housed inside a medieval building across the square is a treasure trove of ecclesiastical works of art which include silverware, religious vestments, paintings and engravings by Favray, Goya and Van Dyck together with a unique collection of coins. For information about the cathedral or its museum, tel: 00356 21454136. More splendid architecture adorns Cathedral square. Have a look at the 14th-century Norman house whose double-arched windows and doorways are architecturally unique. Wander along more narrow streets and alleys until you reach Bastion square from where the breathtaking uninterrupted view reaches as far as Valletta's coastline.

If you still have time before taking the next 'Visitmalta' bus, stroll along the winding streets of Rabat (Mdina's suburb) until you reach St.Paul's Catacombs, a large network of underground burial chambers which are more than 1500 years old. Move down the steep steps to the third level and see rows of tombs and small side chapels cut out of limestone rock where mourners prayed for deceased relatives (recommended time is 2 hours).

2. Another recommended stop along the north route is the village of Mosta. You can't miss the Mosta Dome, a huge church with an imposing Greek-style architecture . Built in 1860 to replace a smaller church, this structure of immense proportions was designed by the Maltese architect Giorgio Grognet. Its impressive interior has numerous works of art that you shouldn't miss. Enter the vestry to see the huge bomb that pierced the dome and crashed to the floor inside the church in 1942 without exploding. Both the church and the congregation had a miraculous escape, as can be witnessed from the numerous photos on display in the vestry. (recommended time is 1 hour).

3. If you opt for the south route, stop at Marsaxlokk, Malta's main folklore and fishing village. Stroll along the 1km long coastline and see rows of colourful traditional Maltese fishing boats anchored to the pier and groups of fishermen preparing or mending their nets. If you happen to come here on a Sunday, the fishing market along the coastline provides a fascinating insight into the traditional fishing industry while the adjoining flea market is the best place to make a good bargain (recommended time is 1 hour).

4. The Cottonera area along the south route offers visitors the chance to get the best experience of Malta's maritime past. Known as the 'Three Cities' because it is made up of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, this is the place where the knights built their first homes or auberges. Built on a promontory stretching into the harbour, Fort St.Angelo in Vittoriosa has been restored and today looks much the same as it did in the early days of the knights. The impressive facades of Auberge de France and Auberge d'Angleterre, two of the first residential homes used by the knights are graced with ornate doorways and decorated windows while the restored 16th-century Inquisitor's palace which you can visit has wonderful Italian-style architecture. The Vittoriosa Church of St.Lawrence which overlooks the Grand harbour has a wonderful interior richly decorated with numerous paintings, sculptures and artistic works.

If you still have time, continue towards the small town of Senglea. Don't miss climbing to the 'vedette', a turret with six windowed facades from where the view of the Grand harbour reaches as far as the eye can see. Another highlight here is the Church of Our Lady of Victory which was reconstructed after World War II when it was completely destroyed. The church houses numerous paintings by Maltese artists and priceless artistic statues. There's not much to see in Cospicua, a hilly harbour town with steep narrow streets, alleys and steps. But it's worth having a look at the Church of the Immaculate Conception which boasts numerous artistic works in silver and a number of beautiful paintings by Maltese and Italian artists (recommended time is 2.5 hours).

For more information about 'Visitmalta' buses, tel: 00356 80072393.