Albrecht Durer's 'The Hare'

1. The Old Town square is a spacious venue where various cultural activities are regularly held. One such activity which filled up the entire square when I visited in summer 2003 was the huge display of plastic rabbits put on to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Albrecht Durer's painting The Hare. If you want to get acquainted with the painter's life and works, visit Albrecht Durer's museum at Albrecht-Durer-strasse 39, south of Nurnberg's Castle.

2. Lorenzkirche on Lorenzer platz is a massive twin-belfry Gothic church whose magnificent facade is adorned with an intricately sculptured rose window and numerous artistic statues. More impressive are several artistic works that embellish the church's three-aisle interior. Don't miss the wonderful wooden panels by Veit Stoss.

3. Karstadt department stores are scattered all over Germany. Nurnberg's branch, renowned for its unique children's section, exposes a huge interesting collection of mechanical toys that are admired by children and adults alike. Don't miss it.

Quick Tips:

1. Pedestrianised Konigstrasse, crowded with locals and tourists is Nurnberg's most atmospheric street. It's advisable to start from Konigstor, one of the remaining gates to the Old Town. From here, walk north toward Lorenzer platz past numerous souvenir shops, ice cream parlors, and restaurants. Once on Lorenzer platz, stop to admire the architecture of Lorenzkirche and have a look at the market stalls that fill up the opposite side of the square. Take your time to enjoy the entertainment scene along the north end of Konigstrasse, adorned with a wonderful stone bridge that extends over the Pegnitz River. Here, numerous street performers provide hours of free entertainment.

2. From Konigstrasse, a short walk north leads toward the Old Town square. Frauenkirche, a Gothic church whose west facade is adorned with a splendid portal and a huge mechanical clock, borders this huge square from one side. On the northwest corner, a 14th-century artistic fountain that has just been restored attracts crowds of tourists.

3. From the Old Town square, Burgstrasse leads uphill toward Nurnberg's Castle. Although not fully restored, the Kaiserburg complex boasts several splendid rooms that house interesting collections related to the history of the castle.

Best Way To Get Around:

1. Hourly trains serve Nurnberg from Frankfurt and Munich. From Prague, there are daily trains that cover the distance between the two cities in 6 hours. From Cheb in the Czech Republic, frequent regional trains reach Nurnberg in about 90 minutes.

2. You will probably arrive at Nurnberg's Hauptbahnhof, a short distance south of the town center. This huge train station is a modern complex of shops, ticket offices, take-aways, and restaurants. To reach the Old Town, take the subway under Bahnhofplatz. This leads directly toward Konigstor, one of the remaining medieval gates to the Old Town.

3. Nurnberg's Alstadt is small enough to be covered on foot. The Old Town's main artery is Konigstrasse, a pedestrianised street that runs across the Old Town from Konigstor toward the Pegnitz River. Another pedestrianised street that you'll definitely enjoy is Karolinenstrasse, which runs straight from Lorenzer platz towards Weisser turm.

4. From the Old Town square, a 20 minute walk uphill leads toward the Kaiserburg complex. While going uphill, stop along the way and enjoy the gorgeous views over the town.

We reached Nurnberg when it was already getting dark and so we had to hurry toward the city centre. After having shortlisted a handful of hotels from a tourist brochure, we were trying hard to find our way as quickly as possible. From the Hauptbahnhof, we reached the south end of Konigstrasse in a couple of minutes. From here, we meandered 100 metres or so among the crowds until a signpost directed us towards Luitpoldstrasse. Once here, we could walk easily towards Hotel Keiml since the hotel's name is displayed prominently above the entrance.

This small hotel occupies the first and second floors of a renovated town house. From the ground floor, take the steps to the first floor where very probably, you will be greeted by the lady owner whose pleasing hospitality towards guests you'll definitely talk about at home. Before having time to ask for a room, you will be shown into the hotel's living-room where you will be offered a welcome drink from the bar. While sitting on one of the comfortable sofas, you'll probably be joined by other guests who come here to pick up brochures from the adjoining office.

Each of the hotel's 21 rooms was given a facelift a couple of years ago. Ringed with gypsum cornices, the high ceilings are reminiscent of medieval town houses. The walls, also decorated with gypsum mouldings are coated with soft shades of paint. Our room painted light pink and adorned with rose-tinted mouldings and skirting had a huge window overlooking Luitpoldstrasse. The pink-flowered curtains gathered at the sides complemented the colour of the fluffy duvet. The recently renovated and meticulously clean bathroom provided all the usual amenities. Add to these a good range of cosmetics and toilet preparations from which you can take your free share and you will understand why Hotel Keiml is really value for money.

Confirm this the next morning when you join the other guests for breakfast. Served between 7am and 10am, the hotel's breakfast buffet is a manifestation of plenty. Wicker baskets displaying a wide range of fresh bread and crispy waffles, bowls overflowing with peaches, apples and melon slices and trays containing a selection of cakes and sweets are just part of the wonderful arrangement of food that awaits you. The lady owner whose hospitality is unlimited goes round her guests every now and then making sure that nobody misses a cup of coffee or an extra preferred slice of cake. Don't go out of the breakfast room before preparing a packed lunch complete with fruit and sweets. 'This will keep you going throughout the day' says the lady owner.

The cheap prices, the extravagant breakfast and the hospitality of the owner have all contributed in making this hotel a traveller's paradise. The only drawback is the street noise which is heard particularly at night when a nearby nightclub presents daily cabaret shows.

Nurnberg's Old Town bordered by Vestnertorgraben from the north, Westtorgraben from the West, Frauentorgraben from the south and Konigstorgraben from the east is divided roughly into two by the still water of the Pegnitz River. The north section is dominated by the Hauptmarkt and crowned further north with the Kaiserburg while pedestrianised Konigstrasse dominates the south section.

Very probably, visitors will come here by train which stops at Nurnberg's Hauptbahnhof, the big modern train station south of the Old Town and a stone's throw from sights and attractions. Take the subway under Bahnhofplatz and walk straight ahead until you reach Konigstor, one of the entrances through the medieval fortifications of the Old Town. On the left side, you can visit the Craftsmen's Courtyard, a maze of lanes that house numerous small shops displaying handmade souvenirs and Bavarian handicrafts. From here, proceed towards Konigstrasse, the town's main shopping artery. Meander among outdoor restaurant tables and crowds of people until you reach the Protestant Church of St.Martha on one side and the Gothic convent Church of St.Clare on the other. Continue further north along Konigstrasse, past the Kaufhof department store and numerous speciality shops, restaurants and ice-cream parlours until you reach Lorenzer platz where the massive Gothic Church of St.Lawrence predominates the picture. In front of the church, a daily colourful vegetable market fills up the square with movable stalls, kiosks and crowds of locals. Almost touching the north side of Lorenzkirche, a small beautiful bronze fountain called 'The Fountain of Virtues' adorns Konigstrasse.

Walk further north down Konigstrasse, past the huge Karlstadt department store and you'll soon come across another bronze fountain on your right. Here during long summer days, buskers, musicians and singers entertain the crowds among further market stalls. Further down Konigstrasse on your left, the Kathe Wohlfahrt shop-museum at Konigstrasse 8 displays a wide range of unusual Christmas decorations in wood, ceramics and glass.

Konigstrasse ends with a beautiful arched stone bridge which extends over the Pegnitz River. Try to be here after sunset and you will enjoy a unique view of the river illuminated by artificial lighting. The big building bordering the right side of the river is the Hospital of the Holy Spirit, erected in 1331.

This bridge leads down towards Plobenhofstrasse which after 50 metres or so opens into the Hauptmarkt, the huge Old Town square which is used nowadays to host various cultural activities. Lined with numerous food stores, souvenir shops, pubs and restaurants with outdoor seating, this square is also partly occupied by the Gothic Church of Our Lady whose intricate exterior architecture and mechanical clock were under restoration when I visited. In the northwest corner of the square, a 14th-century artistic fountain called Schoner Brunnen has recently been restored to its former beauty.

The street behind the fountain leads to Sebalder platz whose west section is taken over by the Church of St.Sebaldus, the Evangelical Lutheran parish church since 1525. The Town Hall, a mixture of Renaissance and late Baroque architecture occupies the opposite side of Sebalder platz. After visiting the Town Hall, go down the steps to see the medieval dungeons and torture chamber underneath. Once again on Sebalder platz, go up Burgstrasse until you reach the Fembo House City Museum at Burgstrasse 15. The museum's main attraction is the Noricama, an excellent multivisual film about the history of Nurnberg.

The last 50 metres of Burgstrasse are hard to climb but numerous wooden benches where you can rest and enjoy views of the town below line the walkways. This hill leads towards the former Imperial Stables, used nowadays as a youth hostel. From here walk west towards the Kaiserburg. This Imperial Castle houses a splendid Romanesque Chapel, an Imperial Hall, a Knight's Hall and an interesting History Museum which depicts besides the history of the castle the development of weapons and defence technology. While touring the surrounding gardens, you come across a cluster of intact medieval timber houses. One of these is the former residence of Albrecht Durer. If you want to get acquainted with the painter's life and works, visit Albrecht Durer's museum at Albrecht-Durer-strasse 39, south of the castle.

All churches in Nurnberg were either partly destroyed or suffered major damages during World War II but soon after the war ended, they have been wonderfully rebuilt or restored. However, since restoration works have been completed, industrial pollution has clearly left its mark so that church exteriors are once more asking for urgent cleaning and renovation. In spite of this, their magnificent facades are nonetheless a gallery of elaborate stone carvings and splendid artistic works.

One of the oldest churches in Nurnberg whose west facade was being renovated when I visited is Frauenkirche, the church which fills the east side of the Hauptmarkt. Dedicated to Our Lady and built between 1352 and 1361 on the instructions of Emperor Charles IV, Frauenkirche is a Gothic masterpiece that has an intricately sculptured facade adorned with a wonderful portal. On top of this, the Mannleinlaufen is a huge mechanical clock which displays seven rotating Electors paying homage to Emperor Charles IV. Be here at noon and you will have the opportunity to view this short theatrical performance. The highlights inside are: (i) the Tucher Altar constructed in 1450 (ii) Adam Kraft's wonderful painting of the Madonna with the cloak and (iii) the splendid stained glass windows which decorate the side naves. Frauenkirche, the city's Roman Catholic parish church since 1816 is still used by the Catholic community of Nurnberg. Sunday Mass is celebrated at 10am and 7pm while organ recitals are held regularly in July and August.

Still older than Frauenkirche is Lorenzkirche, an Evangelical Lutheran church which fills up one side of Lorenzer platz south of the river. Its main facade looks towards Karolinenstrasse, a busy street lined with restaurants and fashion boutiques. The original Gothic construction began in 1250 but parts of the church were added later and the final structure was only completed in 1477. This three-aisled twin-belfry church has a magnificent west facade decorated with a splendid portal. Numerous statues and an ornate 14th-century rose window complete the picture. It's a pity that this architectural heritage was left to get polluted to the extent that much of its splendour cannot be appreciated. The works of art inside however and the huge stained glass windows which surround the imposing late Gothic hall choir are still in tiptop condition. The unusual tabernacle by Adam Kraft dating back to 1496 is definitely not to be missed. In summer, Sunday service starts at 8pm.

Another church which lovers of medieval architecture will definitely find interesting is the Evangelical Lutheran Church of St.Sebaldus. This church was completed in 1274 but a Gothic hall choir was added in 1379 and two belfries were added in 1490. Almost completely destroyed during the war, it was rebuilt and reconsecrated in 1957. Occupying the east side of Sebalder platz opposite the Town Hall, it has been the Protestant parish church since 1525. Inside there are quite a number of artistic works worth seeing. The highlight is the shrine of St.Sebaldus by Peter Vischer. 'Christ carrying the Cross' by Adam Kraft and 'St.Andrew' by Veit Stoss are splendid works of art in wood you shouldn't miss.

The Catholic Church of St.Clare on the south end of Konigstrasse is an early Gothic structure built in 1270. There's not much to see inside but the 15th-century Madonna and the early 16th-century tomb of Abbess Prickheimer are worth a look. More prominent than the Church of St.Clare is the Catholic Church of St.Elizabeth located on Jakobsplatz. The original Gothic building was destroyed in 1785 but this was replaced with a new domed neoclassical structure completed in 1806. On the other side of the square, the Evangelical Lutheran Church of St.Jacob dates back to 1209 but its Gothic choir and further additions were not completed before the mid-14th century. These 2 churches are unluckily always kept closed and visitors can only have a look at their external architecture. Two other churches in town which you can visit if you have time to spare are the Church of St.Martha at Konigstrasse 79 and the Church of St.Egidien at Egidienplatz 37.

Nurnberg's summer days are too hectic; the squares and streets within the Old Town are always overcrowded while restaurants and pubs have become too commercialized. The town's main attractions are definitely oriented too much towards tourism.

If you want to avoid all this for a couple of days, why don't you visit nearby Furth, a small town where the atmosphere is cooler and more relaxing? Nurnberg and Furth are neighbouring towns that have actually grown into a single metropolis linked by a common public transport system. The U-bahn between the two towns is both frequent and quick.

Furth's Old Town is bordered by two rivers: the Pegnitz River runs along the east side and separates the town from a vast area of parks and new buildings while the Rednitz River flows along the west side, separating the Old Town from the new areas of Westvorstadt and Unterfurberg. Coming from Nurnberg by U-bahn, you'll probably stop at Furth's Hauptbahnhof. Exit on Bahnhofplatz. On this large square stands the Centaur fountain, a railway monument constructed in 1890 by Rudolf Maison. Nearby, at Bahnhofplatz 2, you will find the friendly Tourist Information Office (Tel: 7406615).

From Bahnhofplatz, walk along pedestrianised Schwabacher strasse until you reach the 'Three Sovereigns Fountain'. Then continue north along Schwabacher strasse towards the 55 metres high tower of the Rathaus, the neoclassical Town Hall built in 1840 on Kohlen markt. From here, walk 50 metres or so along Brandenburger strasse and then turn left on Konigstrasse. Walk further north until you reach the Marktplatz, the beautiful Old Town square which is lined with rows of Baroque sandstone houses. The streets east and west of the Marktplatz are full of character and Old Town charm. Several interesting buildings, intimate pubs and atmospheric restaurants have all found a place here. Stroll along historic Gustavstrasse and Waagstrasse and taste the atmosphere inside a local pub or the ethnic cuisine inside one of the numerous restaurants. The Church of St.Michael on Kirchenplatz, west of the Old Town square dates back to the early 15th-century. Its magnificent tabernacle is a great artistic work worth seeing.

The south end of pretty Gustavstrasse opens into Konigsplatz. From here, you can take Helmstrasse which leads towards the south end of Konigstrasse. Part of the ring road, Konigstrasse is a wide avenue which separates the Stadtpark from the town centre. Within the town's wonderful city park the atmosphere is quiet and relaxing and the environment is trim and tidy. This garden-park, redesigned in 1951 to host an international garden show has wonderful walkways and paved passages which lead down towards the embankment of the Pegnitz River. Several play and recreational areas for children are found here. In addition to these, the park boasts a lovely botanical garden, a flower garden and a couple of open-air theatres where varied cultural activities are held in summer. You can even walk over Karlsteg, the small bridge that extends over the Pegnitz River and leads towards Stadtwiesen, a vast stretch of forested countryside and water canals. Within the southernmost area of the city park along Engelhardstrasse, you can see the Klein Mainau hot medicinal springs while further south you can admire the neoclassical architecture of the Church of the Resurrection which opens daily in summer from 10am to 6pm. The church adjoins the northwest end of Nurnberger strasse, a main traffic artery which leads southeast to Nurnberg.

If you want to stay overnight, you can choose from a wide range of luxury hotels, three-star hotels or guesthouses. In the city centre, one of the best is Hotel Prima Vera, Mathildenstrasse 26 where the price of double rooms ranges from 52 to 100 Euro. Parkhotel Furth, Rudolf-Breitscheid-strasse 15 offers similar facilities for roughly the same price. For a splurge, you can stay in Hotel Schwarzes Kreuz, Konigstrasse 81 where the price of luxury doubles goes up to 145 Euro.