Istanbul in 3 days

First day
-Topkapi palace
-Hagia Sophia
-Yerebatan Sayi
-Blue mosque

Second day
-Bosporus tour
-Taksim, beyoglu

Third day
-Closed bazaar
-Egyptian Bazaar
-Kumkapi

Quick Tips:

Beware the fact that Istanbul is a big city, a metropole. Even its residents suffer from the dense population, pollution, and crime which exists in all metropoles in the world.

Best Way To Get Around:

Getting from the airport
There is the metro line which leaves direcly from the airport. Step out at Zeytinburnu and find the tram stop of Zeytinburnu, which is nearby. This tram will take you to Sultanahmet, to the old centrum.

A hotel in Sultanahmet makes the trip easier for you to discover the most historic places.

Konyali Restaurant is located right in the palace. Mainly kebabs are served here. It is rather pricy due to the location. On the other hand, it is one of the upmarket restaurants of the city, and the view is great.

It has been a long time since I have been to this restaurant, but my local contacts still say that is preserving its reputation. So if you are starving in the middle of your visit to Topkapi palace, do not hesitate to visit.

From the Sirkeci station, take the train to Kumkapi for a night’s show.

Kumkapi is famous for its fish restaurants. There are many of them, tables are on the streets next to each other. Gypsies come playing music, belly dancers go around the tables. It is up to you to tip them or not. Meze’s and fish are fresh. Quality is more or less similar on this street, but I would suggest the place of ‘Kor Agop’ (Blind Agop), which has a good reputition.

The first palace of Ottoman Empire in Istanbul, completed just before the death of Fatih Sultan Mehmet, the concurer of Istanbul. This palace was a city all by itself. The absolute musts of the palace are the harem, the treasury, and the views of Bosporus from the palace.

The harem is the private quarters of the Sultan. The image is that it would be full of beautiful woman belonging to the Sultan. However, these women were not all his lovers; his sisters, mother, and sons also lived here. Also, it was an institution to educate girls who were given as presents or bought. Once more, they would not all be the sultan’s lovers. These girls would get a good education and marry noblemen or statesmen of the Ottoman Empire. I hope we have cleared a misunderstanding here.

Islam allows men to have more than one woman, if they are all treated equally. (This is a crime in modern Turkish republic.) Also, it was legal that the sultan would kill all his brothers after he was crowned. The sultan’s ladies, who were lucky enough to have a son from him, would do anything to protect their precious sons from the attacks of competing ladies. If you have a good guide, he or she will inform you all about the palace politics and even show you the little chambers where the sehzades were kept (sehzade is the crown prince). The harem is a place to learn how a lady lived 400 years ago.

There is also a school called Enderun in the palace where they used to educate small boys to be great statesman, soldiers, and architects (Mimar Sinan is a good example of this). It is a great experience to see the treasury. A masterpiece for me is the kasikci elmasi, the very precious diamond, and personal items of sultans. Looking at the huge war items and big clothing one will give one the idea that Ottoman sultans were giants. There are also many exhibitions about how life was in the palace.

From the windows and the gardens of the palace, you can feel the sea breeze. The garden is silent now, but once it was full of cheerful ladies and beautiful flower gardens of tulips and roses.

Note that you can't visit Harem all by yourself; you should take a guided tour. There is a guided tour every half hour.

6th century church inherited from Byzantium. It was converted into a mosque after the city was conquered by Turks. Modern Turkish republic has made a museum out of it, which was a proper decision because this building was not made to be a church or a mosque.

It is an architectural miracle, survived many earthquakes and survived to tell us that god is above religions. When I am there I get a thrilling feeling, as if I am visiting a very holy place. You see the Islamic art and the Byzantium mosaics right in the same place, this huge space. Or it feels much more spacious than it is actually.

Byzantium emperors loved to have them painted - or illustrated as mosaics - with Jesus and Maria. Colours on the mosaics are still living after so many centuries.

Do not get the impression that Turkish have converted all the churches into mosques. Fatih Sultan Mehmet has shown the traditional freedom to Christians and did not convert most of the churches.

Yerebatan Sarayi, water tank of the Byzantium and Blue mosques are two other attractions around Sultanahmet.

Blue mosque is named after the blue tiles used in the architecture. Please note that this mosque is being used today, so do not photograph the paying people. Ladies are advised to bring their own scarf with them other wise they will have to use the common ones. Uncovered legs and very low sleeves are not appropriate clothing here.

If you are clothed appropriately, you may go in and admire this gorgeous mosque. The tiles, Islamic art and the mihrab are the top attractions.

Yerebatan Sarayi (Sunken Palace) is very romantic, which one would not expect from an ex-water tank. Old islamic music plays in the background; it just feels thrilling to be there. Notice the Medusa head under one of the columns.

Take the boat from Eminonu: 10.30, 11.55, 13.30 on normal working days. This costs about 5$. You will make a long ride up and down Bosphorus, through all points of interest. This boat will stop at the following places:
Beşiktaş Kanlıca Yeniköy Sarıyer Rumeli Kavağı Anadolu Kavağı

In the weekend it will leave at 11.20 and will make the following stops:
Beşiktaş Ortaköy Kanlıca Sarıyer Rumeli Kavağı Anadolu Kavağı

Along the way, you will first notice the legendary girl's tower. There are countless stories about why this tower was built in the middle of the sea. It is used as a luxury restaurant today. A dinner here can set you back by 60$ per person. Customers are mainly business class of Istanbul.

You will see the houses of rich and famous Turks along the way, houses where a month’s rent is around 5000$. Dolmabahce sarayi is on the seaside, a place which was used after Topkapi. Just near that is another palace: Ciragan Sarayi, a luxury hotel today.

Kanlica, on the Anatolian side, is famous for its yogurt, preferably eaten with some sugar on it. If you are lucky this delicacy will be sold on the boat shortly after it leaves this stop.

You will be going under the bridges of Bosphorus; the fact that you are now between Europe and Asia will be at the back of your mind.

When you step out of the boat, you will be surprised with Anadolu kavagi, which feels like a fishing village more than a district of Istanbul. The boat will stop here for lunch. If you have brought you sandwiches, like I did, you will have a meal watching the black sea.

All through the voyage, views are great. Tea, coffee and other beverages are sold on the ship. I suggest you bring your simit with you (A round bread covered with sesame). I always bring more 'Simit' than I need, the rest to throw to the seagulls, which make acrobatic moves to catch it.

From Taksim, a very central point for public tranport, find your way to Beyoglu, Istiklal caddesi.

Today, this is a commercial district, and most embassies and consulates are here. Notice the entrance of Galatasaray Lisesi, one of the first modern schools of Ottoman Empire. Roll up the Istiklal Street, enjoy the architecture of embassy buildings and others. Once upon a time, ladies and gentleman in fine clothes would be hanging out here. Today, all kinds of people walk in the crowd, like a sample of Turkey.

There is a nostalgic tram going up and down the street, to tunel, the second metro of the world. It is a very small one, though. Because I have never used it, I do not know where it ends up.

I always preferred to stay on this street, shop until I drop at the fancy shops, bookstores, with a regular break at Inci patisserie, famous world-wide for its profiterols. In addition to book shops, which have a wide collection in English, the comic store in the Aznavour Passage is my favourite.

The day usually ends at one of the pubs on this street, where the working class also drop in after a busy day. If you want somewhere more oriental, Cicek pasaji could be the option for you; watch out for the prices, though. Strange enough, nothing else makes me feel more in Istanbul than an afternoon in Istiklal.

Beware: Closed bazaar has many gates. If you promise a friend to meet at the gate of Kapalicarsi, that means you will never see each other again. If you are coming from Sultanahmet, it is advised to enter from Nuruosmaniye gate (near Nuruosmaniye mosque).

Unless you have excellent negotiation skills, it is not advised to shop here. But do not miss the architecture behind the shops.

If you would like to stop for lunch break, Havuzlu Lokanta is advised. This lokanta (simply restaurant in Turkish), typically lunch restaurant for the locals and the tourists still maintains good quality. You can choose your food by pointing at the window. Food is good, fresh but a bit more pricy than normal lokantas, which are spread all over the city, due to its unique location and reputable name.

To head to the Egyptian Bazaar, you should take Oruculer port.

It is the place for gourmets like me. Air is filled with the scents of Turkish coffee, lokum, and countless spices. Traditional clothes and tile colored ceramics can be purchased. A stop at Gulluoglu, a sweet shop which is now famous Turkey-wide, is surely advised.

Out of the back gate, follow the coffee smell to Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi. This guy sells absolutely the best Turkish coffee. You can also get a Turkish coffee set here.

Egyptian bazaar is a unique oriental experience. Locals adore this place. Some Turkish people enjoy the benefits of traditional knowledge next to modern medicine and use spices for health which they purchase here.

This bazaar, is living because it is still functional to locals. Turkish delight (lokum) is absolutely the best purchase here. They have also created many varieties, so if you dont like the traditional rose taste like me, you can have kiwi or even chocolate taste.