On the Road to Morocco

A great night's stay in the heart of Rabat, Morocco's best-kept secret. It's located across from the Royal Hotel so be warned -- depending on the film -- you may be entertained by the film's soundtrack. It's also located near a mosque, so if you are easily disturbed by an early call to prayer, you may want to wear earplugs! The rooms are lovely and ours had a great balcony (excellent for hanging out laundry).

It was an easy walk to the Medinah and Kasbah des Oudaias.

For anyone travelling to Morocco to find the essence of the Beatnik experience, Tangier is a "must" as is a stay at the Hotel Continental. Used by the film crew of Bertullici's film adaptation of Paul Bowles' "The Sheltering Sky", this faded queen of the cliffs is both gracious and comfortable. Tucked deep within the Petit Socco, it offers a great location and a safe haven from the crowds without. Good luck leaving without stealing the furniture!

Tangier can be a challenging city to enter by sea -- the ferry terminal is awash with touts who want to take you to hotels of their own (i.e., hotels that pay them a commission for bodies). It's the only city in Africa I've ever booked a room in before arriving -- I really wanted to be able to run the gauntlet with the security of having a home base.

Rooms are reminiscent of the turn of the century, the last hurrah of its colonial days. Its views of the harbour are stunning.

We spent our first night in Rabat at the Hotel de la Paix. It was bright, charming, and in a great location. We checked out, intending to leave, but decided over breakfast to spend one more night. We ended up at the Royal Hotel on our second night, which was also a very positive experience. The excellent location made it easy to get to everything on foot.

This operation is so impressive that it defies words. Tucked a block away from the Jemaa l-Fna, it offers travelers top accommodations and service for minimal cash. The rooms are great, the location couldn't be any better, and the staff is a whiz at organizing everything from desert excursions to dispensing travelling advice. The do-it-yourself breakfasts are better than anything my mother ever made. Internet access is on the premises and is very affordable. Accommodations range from private rooms with bathroom to dorms for groups of trekkers.

This is the best place to stay in Marrakech unless you're filthy rich and can afford the Mamounia. Be warned: they seldom allow people to stay more than two days.

Located in central Casa, this old French hotel is worn and faded (could use with a coat of paint and new wall pictures), but it still offers budget travelers an excellent bang for the buck. It's situated near inexpensive restaurants and take-aways.

Walkable (assuming that you travel lightly) from both the CTM (bus) and train stations.

Double your pleasure with two hotels in one, depending on which entrance you use. This is the cheapest hotel that we stayed at during our trek through Morocco and by far one of the best values. Very cheap but clean, bright, and well-situated. Shared bathrooms were among the cleanest and the showers were hot!! Right along the waterfront we had views of the fishing boats and great rooftop views.

As the only mosque in Morocco that non-Muslims may visit, the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is an obvious destination. Depending on which guidebook you read, it is either the second or third largest mosque in the world, so bring a measuring tape and check for yourself. Constructed for the late king Hassan II on the event of his 60th birthday, its design balances the sensation of personal spirituality and state piety, cool somber colours with riotous zelig-tile work and desert shades with water playful fountains. With the exception of its chandeliers (Italian crystal) and its white granite columns, the structure is Moroccan through and through, from the colourful zelig tiles, granite, plaster, marble, to its deep-hued wood used in its construction. One cannot but marvel at its beauty, its serenity, and opulence. Its 210m-high minaret is the tallest in the world and shines a laser beam towards Mecca.

Jutting out atop the Atlantic (you can see water below your feet as you walk atop the partially glass-tiled floor), its beauty is nonetheless compromised by its very modest location and US$500+ million price tag. It has been noted that less fortunate Moroccans have not benefitted financially from the erection of the mosque, especially with the demolition of low-income neighbourhoods during its construction period. Having said that, it has been suggested that Moroccan arts and crafts were saved from extinction in the building and decorating of this mosque.

Note: Tours (mandatory) are offered in a variety of languages and are available to non-Muslims every day at fixed hours, except on Fridays. Remember to dress modestly!

Directions:
The easiest way to reach the Hassan II mosque is to take the Boulevard des Almohades (turns into Blvd. Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah). It's on the shoreline, so you really can't miss it.

The main entry to Rabat's casbah is unsettlingly right off a main circular expressway, but once through the large 12th-century arched gate (Bab Al-mohad) you've entered another era. Follow its one main street, the Rue Jamaa, through the labyrinthine walled community, which once housed Andalucian Muslims exiled from Spain. The kasbah's Andalucian gardens (with painted wooden panels), arched tunnels and gilt doors, tiled walls, and whitewashed homes will make you want to slap a "For Sale" sign on your front lawn. The kasbah is also home to the Musee des Oudaia (Museum of Moroccan Arts) and the oldest mosque in Morocco (12th century).

We found this "Morocco within Morocco" absolutely hustler-free and virtually tourist-free. Its Cafe Maure is situated on a high terrace where you can sip mint tea and munch on amazing macaroons with local paramours. Below, waves from the Atlantic crash, the beach and corniche zigzags below, seagulls careen overhead . . . *sigh* If a guide offers his services, decline. You will not need one.

Granted I'm not American and 99% of my friends aren't either, but I'm still amazed that not one of my friends who have visited Morocco has visited the American Legation in Tangier.

A working legation from 1821 until 1956, it is now a museum and serves to illustrate through art, furniture, maps (by Mercator), carpets, letters, and objects d'art the history of the relationship between the United States and Morocco (Morocco being one of the first countries to recognize the US as an independent country), as well as Tangerine history. For WWII buffs, the Allied Forces planned part of their 1942 North African landings in these rooms.

Of special interest to me was its museum-within-a-museum--the Paul Bowles Museum. As an ardent Bowles' admirer, I visited the Legation primarily to experience the spirit of the man who wrote, among other works, The Sheltering Sky and to touch his steamer trunks and sit in his chair.

Admission is free. Guided tours are available.