On the Road to Morocco

It was an easy walk to the Medinah and Kasbah des Oudaias.

Tangier can be a challenging city to enter by sea -- the ferry terminal is awash with touts who want to take you to hotels of their own (i.e., hotels that pay them a commission for bodies). It's the only city in Africa I've ever booked a room in before arriving -- I really wanted to be able to run the gauntlet with the security of having a home base.

Rooms are reminiscent of the turn of the century, the last hurrah of its colonial days. Its views of the harbour are stunning.

This is the best place to stay in Marrakech unless you're filthy rich and can afford the Mamounia. Be warned: they seldom allow people to stay more than two days.

Walkable (assuming that you travel lightly) from both the CTM (bus) and train stations.

Jutting out atop the Atlantic (you can see water below your feet as you walk atop the partially glass-tiled floor), its beauty is nonetheless compromised by its very modest location and US$500+ million price tag. It has been noted that less fortunate Moroccans have not benefitted financially from the erection of the mosque, especially with the demolition of low-income neighbourhoods during its construction period. Having said that, it has been suggested that Moroccan arts and crafts were saved from extinction in the building and decorating of this mosque.

Note: Tours (mandatory) are offered in a variety of languages and are available to non-Muslims every day at fixed hours, except on Fridays. Remember to dress modestly!

Directions:
The easiest way to reach the Hassan II mosque is to take the Boulevard des Almohades (turns into Blvd. Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah). It's on the shoreline, so you really can't miss it.

We found this "Morocco within Morocco" absolutely hustler-free and virtually tourist-free. Its Cafe Maure is situated on a high terrace where you can sip mint tea and munch on amazing macaroons with local paramours. Below, waves from the Atlantic crash, the beach and corniche zigzags below, seagulls careen overhead . . . *sigh* If a guide offers his services, decline. You will not need one.

A working legation from 1821 until 1956, it is now a museum and serves to illustrate through art, furniture, maps (by Mercator), carpets, letters, and objects d'art the history of the relationship between the United States and Morocco (Morocco being one of the first countries to recognize the US as an independent country), as well as Tangerine history. For WWII buffs, the Allied Forces planned part of their 1942 North African landings in these rooms.

Of special interest to me was its museum-within-a-museum--the Paul Bowles Museum. As an ardent Bowles' admirer, I visited the Legation primarily to experience the spirit of the man who wrote, among other works, The Sheltering Sky and to touch his steamer trunks and sit in his chair.

Admission is free. Guided tours are available.