Kauai-The Garden Isle

As we taxied toward the terminal, I marveled at how far Hawaii had come. Thirty years ago when I moved away, airports had no jetways connecting the terminal to the airplane. To board a plane, we had to walk across the tarmac and climb up a portable staircase. Now, tiny little Lihue had an airport large enough to land our 757 at AND taxi right up to the terminal!

The first thing that reminded me I was not at just any old airport was a rooster crowing. I thought it would be the smells of plumeria, pikake, and orchids that would make my heart beat faster. But it was that silly rooster. I’d forgotten that chickens run wild on Kauai. Here I was, finally, back in the islands of Hawaii. I spent five of my grade-school years on the Big Island and have always had a very tender spot for anything Hawaiian.

I needed this vacation as a break from a difficult couple of months after the death of my mother. We were to scatter her ashes at an as-yet undiscovered spot that she would have loved. But that was to be on Maui and I could push that to the back of my mind as we first enjoyed Kauai for four splendid days.

The baggage claim area is still open-air so the trade winds blow through, cooling the tourists and bringing those dizzying smells of tropical flowers--and the sound of the rooster.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

A note of caution: I’d heard of some people having trouble with cockroaches in their rental cars. Our first one, a Dodge Stratus, did indeed have roaches that scattered when we climbed in at night. Fortunately, the A/C was broken in that vehicle, so we traded it in for a Chrysler Sebring. The Sebring was a much, much nicer car—and no roaches!

After picking up our tourist-red Dodge Stratus at Dollar Rent-a-car, we headed north from Lihue to Kapaa and the Coconut Marketplace, right on the water's edge. The open-air lobby at the Kauai Coast Resort is everything you dream a Hawaiian resort should be. Huge, fresh flower arrangements, tropical plants, palm trees, and ti leaves glowing in the light of the tiki torches.

Having spent two hours in a timeshare presentation in Phoenix, we earned this four-night stay. We weren't sure what to expect from this resort. The reviews had been quite positive, so we were hopeful. On the other hand, what can you expect for free? In this case, you can expect a beautiful resort, well-kept and in a great location.

Our suite was beautiful. A four-poster king-sized bed, tropical prints, lovely kitchen, two TVs, balcony with a view of the ocean, all clean and well maintained. The units face north/south and the bed is positioned facing east next to a sliding glass door. My husband could see the sunrise from his side of the bed each morning; that is, if he opened his eyes early enough.

We were on the third (top) floor of our unit, and there are no elevators. Lugging our baggage up two flights of stairs was a little exhausting. Of course, we could have used the bell staff, but chose to do it on our own. There was a lot of wear and tear on the carpeting on the stairs.

The unit has no VCR, which was only disappointing since we had brought a recording of a missed episode of our favorite TV drama, 24. The biggest problem we encountered at this resort was the uncomfortable mattress. We woke up sore the first couple of mornings and finally realized the bed was too hard. If I were to stay at this resort again, I'd probably run down to Wal-Mart and buy a foam mattress pad to throw on top for the duration of my stay.

Keeping the slider open all night, we were sometimes awakened in the morning by the many birds calling, chirping and singing. I wondered if I was hearing Mynah birds, and I'd have this song rolling around in the back of my head. I used to hear it often when I lived in Hawaii, sung to the tune of "Yellow Bird."

Mynah bird, up high in the Banyan Tree
Mynah Bird, you sit all alone like me
You just sit and yell
by the big hotel
Tourist cannot sleep. . .

There's nothing like waking up in paradise, with a glass of orange juice to start the day as I watch the sunrise off my balcony. It's going to be a glorious vacation.

Our first night on Kauai, we walked the few steps from our resort to the Coconut Marketplace. TC’s Island Grill looked inviting. The menu was simple and somewhat affordable. Open-air with fans to help circulate the breeze, the restaurant looked like a typically touristy tropical eatery—and we were hungry!

Unfortunately, the food was mediocre. At least the server was honest. When Steve asked if the mahi mahi fish and chips were any good, she hesitated before bluntly saying, "No." Since we asked, she couldn’t really recommend it and told us which restaurant she thought had better fish and chips. The server claimed the burgers were great, though, so Steve ordered the mushroom burger and I got the passion fruit BBQ burger. Not great, but decent. Steve enjoyed his more than I liked mine. The passion fruit BBQ sauce was just a bit too bland.

The French fries, however, were exactly as I like them—thinly sliced and hot! I also ordered a small side salad. When they say small, they mean small—like half a cup! I’d forgotten how expensive produce is on the islands. That little salad cost $3.50!

After a morning of snorkeling at Anini Beach and stopping at every overlook and beach between Anini and Ha’ena State Park, we were ready for some lunch—local style! Hanalei Mixed Plate is right on the Kuhio Highway in Hanalei.

My husband and I shared a plate of Kalua pork and cabbage with vegetables and rice. One plate was plenty for both of us. Hubby was a little tentative about trying this local dish. I have to admit, it doesn’t look all that appetizing, but the luscious smell will lure you into at least taking a bite. Memories of luaus at Kole Kole Park on the Big Island came flooding back as I ate. As kids, we always called it Kalua pig, but I guess that sounds even less appetizing than it looks.

If you stop in Hanalei for a little souvenir shopping during your tour of Kauai, be sure to stop for local hospitality and food at Hanalei Mixed Plate.

I’d read several positive reviews of this restaurant and had it near the top of my list of places to try. I’m sorry to say we give it a mixed review. It was a little difficult to find, as the door to the restaurant is not marked -- very strange.

This was a Thursday night, but the place was full and we waited 10 minutes to be seated. My husband and I were led to an odd little triangular table next to a window. Unfortunately, the moon was not very bright and we couldn’t see much, but with the window cracked open, we could hear the surf and feel a wonderful breeze.

The service was somewhat slow, but we were enjoying the experience and each other’s company, so no complaints. The salad bar was unremarkable. There wasn’t anything extraordinary to make me enjoy it more than any other. My beef teriyaki kabob, however, was fantastic! The beef was very tender and marinated perfectly. The rice and delicious, warm bread were perfect accompaniments. At $9.95 for this meal, it was a bargain! My husband had ordered the scallops and felt they were quite bland. Unfortunately, his whole experience here was less than stellar. Except, of course, that he got to spend the evening with me!

In the Poipu Shopping Village in Koloa, Poipu Tropical Burgers looked inviting with seating available on the patio and ceiling fans adding a little extra breeze.

The waiter was very friendly, and highly recommended the mahi mahi tacos to Steve, who loves seafood. They arrived with several toppings to choose from including guacamole, tomato salsa, tropical fruit salsa, watercress and sour cream. He enjoyed them very much. Not a seafood eater myself, I opted for the teriyaki chicken sandwich with pineapple and tomato. The sandwich was okay, but the fries were the kind I love—skinny, hot, and salty!

A somewhat upscale shopping center, the Poipu Shopping Village is a great place to spend a couple of hours. While not our favorite place to eat, one could certainly do worse than Poipu Tropical Burgers.

In the Kauai Shopping Center in Kapaa is a small restaurant called Pau Hana Bar and Grill. In Hawaii, pau hana means "done with work." So this might be the type of place you’d stop off at for a drink or meal after leaving your place of employment for the day.

Steve enjoyed his fish and chips, a tender, flaky white fish deep-fried in batter. My "small" garden salad turned out to be a great deal at $4.95. It was more than I could eat with mixed greens, baby carrots, cucumber slices, diced tomatoes, half of a hard-boiled egg, real bacon pieces, and croutons.

Friendly and not too crowded, Pau Hana is a great place for lunch if you’re in the Kapaa area.

It was our first full day in Hawaii and we were ready to explore! High on our list of places to see was Anini Beach. We tossed our snorkel gear and beach towels into the rental car and headed north. Anini can be a little difficult to find, but with help from a guidebook we arrived after only one pleasant and uneventful detour.

I’d read a journal that mentioned this was a favorite spot of Pierce Brosnan. Alas, no Bond today. After a short walk on the beach, we couldn’t wait any longer to get into that inviting, calm, clear water. We donned our snorkel gear and began our first venture into the underwater world of Kauai.

Hawaii’s famous triggerfish, the humuhumunukunukuapuaa, was very plentiful. We have one of these fish in our saltwater tank at home, but the huge guys we saw underwater would make an easy snack out of our little one! We marveled at how FAT they are!

Damselfishes as big as silver dollars swam right up to me. I wondered if they were curious or just not paying attention. Or maybe other snorkelers have been bringing treats to share. Darn! Why didn’t I remember to bring a bit of dog kibble?

Other wonders were spotted boxfishes, parrotfish and wrasses. We watched a small eel weave through submerged lava rocks. The water in this area was very shallow, and we could have stood up at any time. We had to be careful of the deeper sea-lane and small boats occasionally coming and going. In the sea-lane, the current was quite fast, so we worked our way out of it and back to the sunny beach.

After a quick fresh-water shower, and allowing a few minutes drying time, we decided to follow the road along the beach to its end. Beautiful homes and many rental houses line the street. We picked up a flyer to see what the rental rates are. The homes will sleep 4-18 people and begin at $950-3450 per week.

Despite spending three more days on Kauai, Anini Beach remained my favorite spot. Quite deserted, it allowed us the opportunity to experience a quiet, romantic Hawaiian paradise.

Next on our list of must-sees on Kauai’s north shore was the Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge. After depositing our $3 per person into the wooden box at the entrance, we headed up the hilly path toward the lighthouse. Looking over the cliff and across to crater hill, we could see evidence that this was indeed a bird sanctuary. With our binoculars, we could specifically see white egrets roosting in branches on the steep cliffs.

The view from the lighthouse is stunning. The grass and other vegetation is so green, and then there’s the backdrop of deep blue. We hoped we might see monk seals lounging on Moku’ae’ae Islet, but no such luck. It was fascinating, however, to watch the sea foam roll and boil at the base of the islet. If the whales had arrived yet, this would have been an awesome place to watch!

The lighthouse itself was built in 1913. The gorgeous glass lens remains in the structure and is the largest of its type. The lighthouse is no longer in use, and has been replaced by a light beacon that now stands in front of the lighthouse.

Walking back toward the parking lot, we came across a pair of Nene, the Hawaiian State bird. Nenes are on the Federal Endangered Species List, with less than 1000 birds left on the islands. This loving pair was parading their three chicks around for the adoring tourists to see.

We arrived at Seasport Divers’ Poipu location, easily spotted with the bright yellow submarine in front, right on schedule. After signing the waivers and gathering our gear, we loaded into their shuttle van with four other divers and two snorkelers. A short ride to Kukuiula Harbor took us to the Anela Kai, our dive boat for the day.

After brief instructions, we boarded for the short ride to Sheraton Caverns, so named because it lies near the beachfront Sheraton Resort in Poipu. Sheraton Caverns is a very popular dive site, with depths ranging from 30-65 feet. The water was a little rough and I was glad I had taken my Bonine a couple of hours previously. Some of the other riders were looking a little green.

This was my first dive as a certified diver, and I was a little nervous, but excited. When it was my turn to jump in, I inflated my BCD, followed instructions and hit the water feet-first. Unfortunately, I hadn’t held my mask close enough to my face and it flooded immediately. What a way to start! I also swallowed a bit of seawater, but determined to be brave, I cleared my mask and regulator and signaled to my dive buddy (my husband, Steve) that I was ready to descend. Deflating our BCDs, we drifted downward.

I was feeling a little claustrophobic at first, but was able to push it away as we explored the underwater lava tubes that are home to the creatures of Hawaii’s deep. I’m sure my eyes were wide as a large sea turtle glided over a ledge toward me, pausing to eat algae off of the lava rock. The dive instructor pointed out a large green moray eel in a cavity, red & white cleaner shrimp going about their business eating the parasites from their homely host. A large spiny pufferfish, angelfish of several varieties, large humuhumunukunukuapuaa (a triggerfish), wrasses, and many other colorful fish made this a fun dive site.

My regulator was sticking and I realized I was breathing hard, so I surfaced with another diver while Steve stayed down a bit longer with other divers. Aboard the Anela Kai, both of the snorkelers and one of the divers were busy leaning over the side, feeding the fish with their previously digested lunches. Oh boy, was I glad I’d taken the Bonine!

After all the divers were up, we decided to return to the harbor and drop off any who didn’t want to continue on to the second dive site. On the way, Spinner dolphins appeared and we took a small detour to get a little closer. What fun, and a great way to take one’s mind off of seasickness, to watch them jump and spin in the air before plunging back into the sea. Once you see them, you understand that they are very aptly named.

After leaving two snorkelers and two divers at the dock, we headed north of the harbor, past the Spouting Horn blowhole, to Turtle Bluff. The sea was even rougher, and though I’d taken another Bonine, it wasn’t working! I knew once I got underwater, I’d be fine. I quickly donned my gear, did the check with my buddy, and jumped in (much more successfully this time), with a different regulator.

This was a harder dive; Turtle Bluff is deeper than Sheraton Caverns, and there is a current. We descended to about 45 feet and began swimming against the current, following a dive instructor. I knew pretty quickly that this was going to be a short dive for me. I was already tired and having a hard time swimming against the current.

We paused, holding onto the surrounding rocks so we wouldn’t drift away in the current, to watch a baby (about 1 foot long) white-tipped reef shark just hanging out under a ledge. After a couple of minutes, I signaled to Steve that I wanted to go up. He got the attention of an instructor, who swam over to me. Of course, we have to use hand signals to communicate; he asked me what was wrong. I indicated I was tired and having trouble breathing. He motioned to me to take long, slow, deep breaths. Then we began swimming leisurely, calmly with the current back toward the line leading back to the boat.

I began ascending slowly, holding onto the line. About halfway up, I felt a tug on my fin. I looked down at the dive instructor, who was pointing below and to my left. Several yards away, a 6-foot white-tipped reef shark was lazily swimming just above a ledge. Wow! The shark was obviously not agitated and I wasn’t frightened at all. After observing it for a minute or so, I continued my slow ascent.

I began to feel the swells about 10 feet from the surface and I had to either get to the top quickly, or I was going to be sick! This was the absolute hardest part of the whole dive for me. I was exhausted, but I had to pull myself close to the ladder without crashing into it, keep my mask and regulator in place, take off my fins, and, with full gear on, hoist myself up onto the deck. The instructor pulled my fins off for me, and the captain calmly talked me through pulling myself up the ladder and led me to the bench where I could finally allow my legs to collapse.

As I gained strength in my legs, I found a nice spot where I could just hang my head over the side and wish I’d taken the Bonine sooner. About half hour later, the rest of the divers surfaced and we mercifully headed back to the harbor. I decided if diving were always this difficult, I’d much rather be snorkeling!

Opeakaa Falls is a short drive west on Highway 580, north of the Wailua River. It’s one of the many spectacular falls that can be seen just off the road on all of the Hawaiian Islands. Some falls don’t even merit markers, but this particular one has been given a parking area and a path along which visitors can pause and enjoy the view of the falls and the incredible foliage.

Across the highway from the falls, a small winding road leads into the valley of Kamokila Hawaiian Village . The ancient village is privately owned and in the process of restoration. A self-guided, walk-through tour costs $5 per person and takes about an hour. Chickens, peacocks, and wild pigs roam freely, and come to greet new arrivals in the hope that snacks will be handed out. We were popular as I tossed around a couple of broken-up cookies, but when the treat ran out, the animals drifted away to wait for the next tourist.

The Fern Grotto is a very popular tourist spot. Definitely one you’ve got to take the time to see. There are several ways to get there, either by guided or self-guided kayak, or using one of the companies that operates tour boats. Easy to reach, the Fern Grotto is south of the Wailua River off of the Kuhio Highway (Hwy 56).

We chose to use Smith’s Fern Grotto cruises to reach the grotto. With our AAA card, a discount of $3 is offered, bringing the price to $12. Arriving just in time for the 12:30pm tour, we enjoyed the leisurely ride upriver on a covered barge. We were entertained with stories, humor, and Hawaiian music by a three-piece ukelele band and two hula dancers. Arriving at our destination, the dancers led us up the path to the beautiful grotto.

The grotto area is a rainforest paradise. Weddings are held here and there is minimal amphitheater seating to accommodate tourists and guests. Covered in several different kinds of ferns (one type appropriately called Bridal Veil), the grotto drips with moisture in this incredible garden of nature. It’s a good idea to have sturdy, non-slip shoes and insect repellent for this site. If you’re a cat-lover, as I am, several cats live here and enjoy the occasional scratch behind the ears from tourists.

We felt the itch to snorkel coming on after our return from the grotto, so we set out to find a spot. We pulled into Lydgate Park just across the Kuhio Highway from the Fern Grotto turn-off. It was very crowded and looked too shallow. Maybe it would a good place for kids just learning to snorkel, but not what we were looking for. We then drove south to Ahukini Recreational State Park. Lots of fisherman and limited visibility made us decide to drive on.

Poipu Beach Park seemed like a good place to try, and we found a shady spot for our towels (it was about 85 degrees that day) and waded into the water. It ended up being a great place to snorkel, despite being a somewhat crowded Saturday. We saw angelfish, spotted boxfish, small and large (10") triggerfish, parrotfish, goatfish, trumpetfish, a red and white striped eel, a snowflake eel and even a small octopus. Honestly, this was more fun than diving for me!

A long and satisfying day of sightseeing had come to a close. We finished off the day by stopping at Hamura’s Saimin. I enjoyed my noodles thoroughly and was so full we had to ask for the Lilikoi (passion fruit) pie to go. Another day in paradise!

We began Sunday morning, our last day on Kauai, by attending a church service. We were greeted with much aloha and yarn leis. We were not the only visitors and each received leis, hugs and kisses on the cheek from several parishioners. The church building has three sets of double glass doors and louvered windows on both the north and south sides of the building, allowing a wonderful tropical breeze through. We felt so welcome and nourished by the spirit of Aloha.

Following the church service, we began the drive to Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific." This was the last thing we felt we really wanted to see before we left for Maui. From Kapaa, we drove south, skirting Lihue airport and the highway to Poipu. Remaining on Highway 50, and now heading east, we stopped at a scenic lookout over the Hanapepe River. The red dirt was vibrant against the bright green of the foliage.

Crossing the bridge across the Waimea River, and driving through the quaint town of Hanapepe, we started a northwest course. At Highway 552 (Kokee Rd.), we turned north and began the ascent to Waimea Canyon State Park. The road had obviously been newly paved and made for a very pleasant drive. The scenery cannot be matched. I can still remember the smell of the foliage. I don’t know what it is that provides that smell, but I remember it from my childhood on the Big Island.

We were carefully timing the drive, as we had to return to the airport for our flight to Maui. Time didn’t permit us to drive to the very end of the road, the Kalalau Lookout, but we did make it to the Waimea Canyon Lookout. It truly does remind one of the Grand Canyon. The coloring and formations are breathtaking.

We returned via Waimea Canyon Road (Hwy 550) for a different, yet equally gorgeous view. This road seemed shorter and we enjoyed seeing homes and farms in the valley below.

The end of our stay in Kauai had come. We’d seen everything we wanted to see and delighted in all of it. The Garden Isle deserves its reputation as a welcoming, relaxing paradise.