The Tropical Tip of Texas--South Padre Island

The tip of this 113 mile long barrier island has been developed as a resort town. It offers all the usual commercial beach attractions--bungee jumping, watercraft and dune buggy rental, chartered year-round fishing trips, dining, a wide selection of lodging, etc. What makes this beach destination special is that commercial development has been restricted to the two ends of the island. For about five miles from the southernmost tip of the island you will see condos, resorts and other commercial development. After that the island is undeveloped and there are few signs of civilization. The shelling is excellent. The wave action is moderate. The island's average width in the south is one-half mile. It is flanked by the Gulf on one side and the ecologically significant, sparkling Laguna Madre on the other. Tremendous sand dunes, the tallest I've seen on any North American Beach, make for some interesting exploring.

Quick Tips:

Bring some WD 40 in case you are very unlucky and run into some oil tar in the water and/or on the beach. I've never had this happen at South Padre, but I have run into it at North Padre, a hundred miles up the coast. Mexico is less than 30 miles away. If you like to pick up bargains in border towns, Matamoros is going to thrill you. The Mexican restaurants in Old Mexico's border towns do not serve what Americans think of as 'Mexican food,' but are wonderful for grilled meats, and continental style menus. The prices are very low for what you get.

Best Way To Get Around:

I would rent or bring a four-wheel drive vehicle so that I could do some off-road exploring, but you could avoid renting a vehicle and just use the island trolleys that travel up and down the main street. The developed part of the island is easy to navigate using these trolleys. Two streets run parallel to the main street, Padre Blvd. They are called, logically, Gulf Blvd. and Laguna Drive. There are a few taxis available.

I like this hotel better than any of the others in the area--although the Radisson and Holiday Inn are nice, too. If I weren't going with children, though, I'd rent a private beachfront condo. With school age children, we like to stay in this hotel with its nice, large pool so that they can have a chance to find other kids to play and swim with. There are usually some playmates at South Padre Island's large beachfront hotels. The parents can watch them from a stool in the swim up bar or from the comfortable, shaded lounge areas around the pool. On the beach they have ready access to water sports, water craft use and horseback riding.
We stayed in one of the partial ocean view hotel rooms with two double beds because it was the only room type we could get on short notice. We have seen the suites, which could also be called apartments or condos. They are difficult to get unless you book far in advance. Our room was very nicely decorated and spacious. It had a small refrigerator and a small balcony. The partial view means that you have an oblique view of the water--the rest of the view is down the island toward the other hotels and condos. If we were willing to plan anywhere from four to six months ahead we would be able to get one of the wonderful two bedroom condos with full, ocean front view, which go for between $200 and $240 in the 'low season.' The low season means winter, spring and fall--except for holidays and spring break. By the way, you wouldn't want to be here for spring break unless you were very crowd and noise tolerant. My favorite time is in the spring right before spring break begins.

This restaurant faces the Laguna Madre Bay, and patrons have a full view of the sunset through large windows overlooking the bay. The food is fresh and excellent. The wait staff have been less than attentive most times we've gone, but maybe they're as distracted as we are by the gorgeous Texas sunset over water. Although they specialize in shrimp dishes, they have a full choice of fine seafood as well as some chicken, steak and vegetarian dishes. The best tables are right by the windows, but when I've made reservations and requested one of these tables I've been told, 'we can't promise, but we'll try.' Our batting average with getting one of them is about 50/50. You can still enjoy the view even if you aren't right beside the window.

I like to get a bird's eye view of any area I visit, whenever possible. Sometimes this can be accomplished only with a little effort. In the case of South Padre Island and the Port Isabel area, the effort involves climbing 70 stairs and three short ladders. Built in 1853, it is one of the state's oldest lighthouses. From the top you can see the Queen Isabella Causeway connecting South Padre Island to the mainland. You also have a panoramic view of Laguna Madre Bay, South Padre Island and well out into the Gulf of Mexico. The Keeper's Cottage is now a museum and visitor's center.

This lighthouse can cast its light about 16 miles out into the Gulf and was in constant operation until 1905. It was occupied by both sides in the Civil War and has survived several hurricanes. Admission fees are very small, with a varied menu of prices depending on age and whether you want to explore the lighthouse and the museum, or just the lighthouse. To see just the lighthouse you'll pay $3 unless you are over 55, in which case it's $2; for kids under 4 it's free. They just completed renovations this year, so everything is open for visitors now.

Kemp's ridley sea turtle and seven other endangered species of marine turtle are available for up close viewing every day but Monday and Thursday. The guides are friendly and informative. The history of Sea Turtle, Inc. is fascinating. Ila Loetscher, known as The Turtle Lady in Texas, decided that the public wouldn't be interested enough in sea turtles to want to save them from extinction unless they were educated about the turtles. She felt that in order to reach the usual tourists she should do something extraordinary with the turtles--so she dressed them in little bonnets and dresses and attracted a great deal of attention. She was quite a character, one of the first woman pilots in the United States and a self-admitted eccentric. She ran the turtle tours until she was in her nineties. She died last year. The new organizers feel that these days children are interested enough in conservation that turtle costumes aren't necessary to attract and hold their attention. While Ila would let people handle the turtles, that is no longer allowed. The children learn about the turtles and might get to feed them. I respect Ila for her pioneering work even if I prefer to see the turtles without corny costumes.

Matamoros, Mexico is just across the border from Brownsville, Texas--about 30 miles from South Padre Island. It would be sort of a shame to visit South Padre Island and not explore Matamoros. Although the residents of Brownsville, Texas and Matamoros, Mexico think of the two cities as one, you will see and feel the differences as a tourist. These shared population of these cities is over half a million people. They share the same latitude as Miami, but the Gulf Breezes are much drier than seabreezes in Miami. There are a number of tour services you can use to see Matamoros, but as I have never used one of them, I can't write about them. The Brownsville Convention and Visitors Bureau (1-800-626-2639) can provide information about these tours. When I go to Matamoros I park my car near one of the international bridges that span the Rio Grande River and walk across the bridge. A passport is not necessary. You can get around Matamoros very cheaply in the taxi cabs. They hang around the bridges and will negotiate a price before the trip if you ask them. Most will not try to overcharge you, but it is better to agree upon a price in advance. The cheapest way to travel is in the maxi-cabs, which are small passenger vans that will stop wherever you ask them to stop--as long as it is along their routes. Their route destination is marked on the front. The bridge cab says 'puente' and the Mercado Jaurez shopping area can be reached by boarding the maxi cab marked 'mercado.' There are many good shops located so near the Gateway International Bridge that you won't need a cab to reach them. As you wander in and out of the many small shops you'll begin to get an idea of how much various items cost. Bargaining will lower the price--don't be afraid to try because the merchants expect it and they will always make a profit. If you forget to carry a sturdy shopping bag you can buy one in many of the shops, but remember not to load yourself down until right before you leave.