Coast to Coast by Rail

A December 2003 trip to United States by mcbabe

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Practical tips on traveling around America on Amtrak to New York, Washington, New Orleans, Chicago, Denver, and San Francisco.

  • 4 reviews
  • 4 stories/tips
  • 9 photos
Rolling through the spectacular Rockies, walking through the major cities of America, Christmas in the US . . . an endless list.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

We relied completely on Amtrak for the long distances (which had its strengths and weaknesses), and our feet or public transport for the rest. Walking, even in the car dominated USA, is still largely the best way to see a place.
Red Church
This was one of the best places we have ever stayed. The service was amazing: the two owners were extremely helpful, with tips and guidebooks to lend. This bed-and-breakfast is in a beautiful Victorian mansion, with the spirit of the Victorian age fully kept up in the gorgeous period decor and furnishings. Our room had a lovely wrought-iron bed and claw-foot tub. A delicious and generous breakfast is included in the price, and is served until a civilised hour, unlike many hotels we have stayed in. They have a lovely garden, with a hot tub you can use 24 hours a day. The area is very interesting, with some great secondhand bookshops, art spaces, and restaurants on hand. It's a big Hispanic area, and one which is off the beaten path as far as tourists go. There are some amazing murals.

I utterly recommend staying here: our stay was charming in every way. The absolute opposite of the typical faceless hotel experience.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by mcbabe on February 15, 2004

San Francisco Inn
943 South Van Ness Avenue San Francisco, California 94110
(415) 641-0188

Executive Tower HotelBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Executive Tower Hotel, Denver"

A really comfortable hotel with very friendly staff. At first sight, a little unassuming, but great value for money. The rooms are spacious and comfortable. It's right in the centre of Denver, a few blocks away from everything.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by mcbabe on February 15, 2004

Executive Tower Hotel
1405 Curtis Street Denver, Colorado 80202
(303) 571-0300

American Visionary Art MuseumBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "American Visionary Art Museum, Baltimore"

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http://www.avam.org/

This is an amazing museum, featuring "outsider art." Truly one of the most outrageous, interesting art museums you will ever visit.

Outsider art is art by those traditionally excluded from society and therefore the "Art World." When we went, there was an exhibit of art by senior citizens, but you will see work by the institutionalised, the old, and the excluded. The museum is full of beautiful, complex canvases that have been worked on for years. It features art of every kind depicting end-of-the-world prophesizing, lonely musings, worlds filled with darkness and with light.

Traditional art galleries look bland and boring after this.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by mcbabe on February 15, 2004

American Visionary Art Museum
800 Key Highway Baltimore, Maryland 21203
(410) 244-1900

We decided to travel around the US using AMTRAK for a number of reasons: firstly, our terrible driving; secondly, the romantic idea of covering huge swathes of land by train; thirdly, it was a cheap way to see a lot. We thought it would also be totally flexible.

To some extent, these ideas were fulfilled.

The first thing to note about AMTRAK is that it's a lot cheaper if you're not a US citizen. Then you can take advantage of a single monthly ticket that covers the entire country. This isn't available to US citizens, so I can't say if it works out to be cheap for you if you are American.

The second thing is that AMTRAK trains are slow and old. There is a kind of pleasure in this: they were all built in the '70s, and AMTRAK, a company in trouble in car-hungry America, hasn't updated them. They are sleek and silver and very, very '70s. They are not full of modern amenities, but you get "old-fashioned service." They are, however, very comfortable. We traveled in coach the whole way, but you get more room than first class on an airplane. Of course, you are on there for longer.

That said, there are some essential things to take with you to ensure your comfort:

1) A sleeping bag, or some kind of blanket. Actually, most American travelers we saw had these "bed in a bag" things you can get at Rite-Aid in the US. Something that will keep you warm: AMTRAK trains get cold at night.

2) Food. Especially if you are vegetarian. The plus side to eating in the dining car is the social aspect. When we did this, we got seated with other travelers. We were lucky enough to meet some nice, interesting people this way. If you take it in your stride, this can add considerably to your traveling experience. The food is appalling, but edible at a pinch. They do carry vegetarian options, but they are not the most inventive and delicious cuisine you will sample on your trip.

3) Something to do. Those trips are long, and remember there's nothing to look at when it gets dark. We took a laptop, so we could watch a few movies, but only some of the routes have a plug by each seat (we only found this on the Washington-to-New Orleans stretch). Otherwise, you'll find one or two in an inconvenient place in the car.

The stations you will end up in vary greatly, but are characterized by their impracticality. There are good points. Denver station, with its lovely, friendly diner and faded glory, is one.

Don't expect to be able to buy anything practical at any station. Don't expect to be using Grand Central or anything like it. Both platforms and stations tend towards the ugly side.

Tickets. Although you may have bought your rail pass, this isn’t the end of it. In order to secure a place on the train, you need to reserve seats on specific trains. You need to book by phone and then collect the tickets at a station before you go in a spectacularly inefficient system.

This doesn't reserve you an allocated seat. This is done on the train. Depending on when you get there and how full the train is, you may or may not end up sitting with the people you are with. The staff do go to every effort to do this, though, and we were sat together on every leg of the trip.

The arrangements are different at every station. All part of the charm of the AMTRAK way!

AMTRAK is a slow means of transport. The trains travel on lines used for shipping goods across the country, and they have a low priority. The companies that use the lines for other things want to shut AMTRAK down because they slow them down, so this may be an experience you won't have for long. Expect long delays as standard. Expect to go slower than your average city commuter train.

The scenery is one of the most attractive parts of this type of travel: you really feel like you are traveling. A sharp contrast to the experience of flying between these places. The most gorgeous scenery we passed through was on the stretch between Denver and San Francisco.

There is another aspect to this. No one wants to live next to a railway line. Traveling this way, you get to see some of the worst poverty of the US. This is an education: or it was for a European couple used to experiencing the US through the lens of Hollywood. You get to pass through one-street towns, shacks, unspoilt forest, very much spoilt forest. A different landscape of America.

In conclusion, I would very much recommend this. But it's not for everyone.

San FranciscoBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

SF Street Art
San Francisco is one of those cities it's easy to fall in love with. This was not our first visit, so we skipped the typical. I would definitely NOT RECOMMEND anyone go to Fisherman's Wharf without the foreknowledge that it is a terrible tourist trap. We think it's hideous. But it may be for you if you like that kind of thing.

Here are some things I DO recommend:

Golden Gate Park: In winter, this is a lush, beautiful park. It’s marred slightly by the roads that dissect it.

Haight: Yes, it is touristy; no, it's got nothing to do with the Beats or the Hippies anymore, but it's still a fun place. There’s great shopping for punks and lots of very famous very good tattooists.

Sunset: Take the bus and go and see this strange part of town. It’s a kind of old people's seaside resort in the middle of SF, with a beautiful but polluted beach.

Take the cheap BART or CALTRAIN to some other parts of the Bay Area, especially Berkeley.

Take the bus. All except full-time hikers will need this after all those hills anyway, but it's cheap and fun although very bumpy. People will talk to you.

Walk as much as possible.

Japan Town is very interesting, with a nice cinema showing not the usual films.

Live music is great here; pick up the listings and take a chance with something.

BaltimoreBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Baltimore Skyline
Baltimore is an unexpectedly pretty city. It has a sweeping harbour, beautiful architecture, and some good things to see. Check out my specific feature on the Visionary Art Museum for more specific information.

Poe lived and died here and you can see the old, pretty graveyard where he was buried. This is worth a visit, although the church is modern and sits oddly in the winding old graveyard. You can on occasion go into the crypts, but we weren't able to do this.

There is a Poe House, but the walk there is through a terrible neighbourhood. We turned back once we'd seen a drugs bust.

We went to a gig here (local band: the Goons), which was a lot of fun. The live music scene here is legendary and recommended.

About the Writer

mcbabe
mcbabe
London, United Kingdom

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