Third Time's a Charm-Holiday in New Orleans

Even though this was our third escape to New Orleans during December, we felt like it was our first. Plan at least one really fantastic dinner while you are there. I highly recommend Dominiques (see review). The rest of the time you can fill up on po'boys, popcorn shrimp and gumbo. Don't even try to eat three meals a day - it's impossible (unless you are REALLY a big eater). Opt for two(breakfast and dinner were my best combination). Plan to do a lot of walking - it's the only thing that will help you burn off all the calories from the great food. Avoid mixing several types of alcohol in one day - a surefire route to disaster. The wine lists in even the smallest restaurants were outstanding and many featured quality wines available by the glass.

Quick Tips:

If it's your first visit, stay in a central location (either French Quarter or Business District,) which allows easy access to all the attractions. Ask locals where they recommend to eat - avoid tourist traps if at all possible. We found the best meals in locally recommended spots.

Best Way To Get Around:

This time we chose walking over driving and weren't disappointed! Spending the first half of the visit in the French Quarter (Maison du Puy) on Rue Toulouse, made walking anywhere a breeze. Since parking in the French Quarter,regrdless of date or time, is a nightmare, walking makes all the more sense. Bring an excellent pair of walking shoes - throw fashion to the wind.

When we moved to the lower end of St. Charles Ave, we took the streetcar ( for a day pass - unlimited rides). We traversed both ends of St. Charles Avenue to restaurants and attractions. On a few occasions, we took a cab, which was quite reasonable (and an adventure in itself - the N.O. cab drivers are quite colorful in their own respect).

Joyeaux Noel! The entrance as well as the lobby of the hotel were decked out in classy holiday finery that immediately made us feel that we had made the right choice! It has a real N'Awlins charm that made for a welcoming experience. Staff were all warm, cheery, and helpful. Our room overlooked the lovely courtyard complete with fountains, pool and Jacuzzi, along with statuary and tropical plants. Rooms were a nice size and tastefully decorated with a bathroom appended with all of the conveniences imaginable (including a lighted magnifying mirror). It did lack a ventilation fan, which it could have used with all of the humidity. The room was climate-controlled and we actually had to turn on the air conditioning on one or two days,even at the end of December.

There are lovely,intimate tables in the courtyard where one can enjoy drinks and meals.

There are two restaurants in Maison Du Puy; the French Quarter Bistro and the world-famous "Dominiques" (see review).

Dominique's ranks up in the top five meals I have ever eaten in my life!

This world-class chef really lives up to his reputation. The food is described as French with Caribbean influence, but it is absolutely indescribable.

The meal started with a complimentary crab salad appetizer that was a tiny morsel of the crustacean, but fresh with a hint of cilantro.

Our party opted for salads rather than appetizers, as we had been eating rather heavily and needed some greens. The ladies went with a duck confit over greens wrapped in crispy prosciutto. I have never tasted anything quite like it. The guys both had an assortment of mesclun greens topped with 8-year-old balsamic vinaigrette (they raved about it).

Entrees sampled were: a Maine lobster served with a crispy plantain spring roll with roasted corn and lobster nage; pheasant stuffed with veal cheeks and chanterelle mushrooms with a sweet potato gnocchi, and snapper with a shrimp papaya sauce and hearts of palm served on a banana leaf. These entrees were so overwhelmingly delicious that we could barely speak as we devoured them. The wine list was sensational and the wine suggested by our adorable and knowledgeable hostess, Alicia, was a winner.

Now for the best part: the desserts! Alicia and our server, Cory, informed us when we ordered that the only chocolate dessert on the menu was a souffle that would require 20-25 minutes to prepare.They recommended we order it with our meal. Of course, we did, and were we ever glad... it was out-of-this-world! Other desserts equally outstanding that we sampled were ginger ice cream with fresh pineapple served in a phyllo pastry cup and a trio of three housemade sorbets (mango, passion fruit and raspberry) that were presented beautifully and provided a colorful and tasty ending to the meal.

Chef Dominique is a native of the island of Mauritius and he is getting (and deserves) rave reviews for his outstanding culinary contribution to New Orleans. This place is a winner.

A great jazz brunch on a rainy Sunday in the Big Easy...What could be better???Music was provided by excellent jazz quartet and even the food can stand up to any northern brunch-any where,anytime. Everything is first-class; starting with the never-empty champagne glass of mimosas,proceeding to the delecatable and regional cuisine offered at the brunch table and ending with the sounds of sweet jazz emanating out into the courtyard( where we had our after dinner drinks). I started my meal with an array of fresh salads, fresh croissants and smoked salmon that tasted just-caught. The "requisite" omelet chef was there serving made-to-order egg concoctions.. I passed on these to leave room for grits, eggs Benedict, andouille sausage, gumbo and Creole rice. I finished this off with a tiny piece of banana bread pudding with vanilla sauce (yum). The food and service was 10 times better than any average brunch and was worth the $38-a-head price.

Upperline was a quick 10-minute stroll from Southern Comfort (our B&B) on a beautiful winter night. The establishment is painted bright yellow and consists of a renovated abode that is absolutely charming and decorated with the work by local artists. You can tell that the owner/maitre'd is thoroughly enamored with this city. Her natural Southern charm emanates as she floats from table to table, looking after and catering to the well-being of all of the patrons.

The menu was composed of various traditional New Orleans and Louisiana favorites with a tempting tasting portion (for$36) that included six tasting-size portions of items like duck etoufee, corn cakes with pepper jelly, andouille gumbo, turtle soup, fried green tomatoes with remoulade sauce, bread pudding and pecan pie. Unfortunately, we had had a rather large lunch and none of us felt able, in good conscious, to tackle such a repast. We did sample the fried green tomatoes (of movie fame). They were delightfully crisp and the spicy remoulade sauce was the perfect compliment. We also sampled spicy shrimp with jalapeno cornbread (the cornbread was four-stars!) and crispy oysters with aioli. Two of us decided on Cane River shrimp (a house specialty. The men went with Towman's Duck (I tasted it-yum), and Salmon with Spinach. It was all a delight to the senses, but we had not a speck of room left for dessert, although they sounded terrific. Never eat a large lunch and plan to eat a large dinner in New Orleans! Our reservations had been made for 6:30pm, which was way too early to accommodate our appetites.

There's a really neat antique soda fountain (not in working order) as well as many old cabinets, a ship's medical chest, jars, bottles and a host of medical oddities and absurdities too numerous to mention (herbal potions, controlled substances, etc...). You have to have at least a little interest in this kind of exotica to really get a kick out of this place. Allow about 45 minutes max.

On our most recent trip to New Orleans, my husband made it his obsession to find the perfect New Orleans Hurricane. For the uninitiated, a "Hurricane" is a combination of various potent liquors topped with a splash of available fruit juices, then topped with more potent alcohol. It is always shaken,not stirred, and served with a cherry and orange slice. They are usually served in plastic "to-go" cups and are always drunk through a straw - a mainstay of Mardi Gras revelers. Fine dining establishments do not serve them, nor do many restaurants outside the French Quarter (with a few exceptions). But after 3 years of tasting, evaluating and imbibing in a cross section of what New Orleans has to offer, Glenn has come up with his choices for the "Top 5 Hurricanes in N.O."

#1-The Gazebo Cafe
An outdoor cafe with live jazz next to the French Market, this place stole the lead out from under Lafitte's Bar in the 2003 visit. Glenn required several samplings on a variety of days, prepared by bartender Cody, to make his decision. They also make a great Louisiana Lemonade and Mudslide. Try the appetizer sampler with your drinks (popcorn shrimp and crawfish and fried alligator sausage).

#2Lafitte's
This dark,dingy hole in the wall is touted as the oldest bar in the French Quarter and is reputed to be haunted. This is perfectly believable. But it is a great place to stop in for a drink...Glenn loved the hurricanes here so much he collected a set of eight "to-go" glasses with the Lafitte logo. That's devotion. Can't wait to use them as water goblets at our next dinner party.

#3 Tied for Third Place
Former #1 spot - The French Market Cafe on Decatur Street (across from French Market). Still good but not AS good as #1 and #2.
and
The Old Coffee Pot - The site of our very "first hurricane" it seems to be the one we remember most. For Capt. Glenn, this spot will always be a favorite - not only for the hurricanes but for the great catfish po'boys and friendly, down-home service. (see review in dining)

Honorable Mention - In a class by itself - Jaques-Imo's. Not only is the bartender super...the drink is great and is served with much personality and gusto!

Last Place - Pat O'Brien's Hurricanes
While the atmosphere with the dueling pianos and courtyard may be fun, the Hurricanes SUCK. So does the mix that they sell. Highly overrated - Yuck!

Places where you don't want to request a Hurricane:

Upperline - "No - we definitely don't make those here..."
Dominiques - "NO...sorry" (with a good-humored and only slightly condescending look)
Liuzza's - "We don't make them here...but I'll make you one anyway, hon" (and it wasn't bad).
Joey K's - "Margaritas and beer only..."
Windsor Court Hotel - Bartender just chuckles and shakes his head..."How about a Cosmo?" (which was fabulous!)
Dante's Kitchen - "Are you kidding...those are made only for tourists. Locals never drink that stuff!"

And there you have it...one man's look at the most famous drink in New Orleans - the Hurricane. But don't trust Glenn's opinion - take your own tour and find the perfect Hurricane for yourself. Write down the places you go...after one, it's easy to lose track!