Nile River Cruise 2003

A felluca is an ancient wooden sailboat that can be seen each afternoon on the Nile. This is the best time for sailing since the breeze picks up at noon and the sun is shining brightly. Many days it is too hot for sightseeing, so this is an enjoyable break.

Since this was included in our cruise package, a large felluca with two sails capable of carrying about 30 guests met us at the dock next to the ship. A staff of three manned the vessel -- one at the sails, one at the rudder, and one to help us about.

We sailed for about 1.5 hours. Plan it after lunch or, better yet, bring some food along. The sailing is very calm and there are lots of seats -- you can even sit on the bow – but you may have to move a bit when the mate adjusts the sails.

The trip takes you down past the marina with all the rafted river cruisers and then up past a few hotels and around Elephantine Island. There are large granite boulders in the Nile -- you sail around these! -- they remind me so much of "The Baths" in Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands.

The Egyptologist that accompanied us on the tour was so helpful in pointing out hotels along the banks, tell-tale marks left years ago when the Nile flooded each summer, and also the temples that we'd be visiting the next morning.

There were all sizes of fellucas on the river, some for a romantic sail for two, others family size, and ours, which was group size. All the captains were very adept -- they came close but never hit one another; it seemed to be a game. You should be able to negotiate a sail for about 1-1.5 hours for about US$10-15. Don't forget the sunscreen and camera.

Abu Simbel is the site to which Ramses II's and Nefertari's temples were moved to before the rising waters caused by the Aswan High Dam flooded its former site. These temples were dismantled, moved piece by piece, and reassembled in a matter of two years.

You can get there from Aswan by a 4-hour bus ride or a 35-minute flight. We went by plane early in the morning. Sitting on the left side seemed to afford a good view of the High Dam and the temples - at least it did so on this particular flight.

After a few minutes’ bus ride through a small nondescript town (not touristy at all), we were quickly ushered past 30 or so shops that were just opening (time for shopping later) in order to enter the temple area to start our tour before it got too crowded.

It is a very busy, well-controlled, and quite well-managed site - Even at 9am, at least 30 buses were dropping off groups. The temples are huge - the largest is that of Ramses, and the smaller one was built for his favorite wife Nefertari (Nefer means beautiful).

It is difficult to imagine that these temples were built so long ago and unimaginable that they were also moved so far with very little damage and also placed in the absolute same orientation.

After the half-hour tour and informational talk by your guide, you are free to wander for and hour or so. You must visit a tent set up with the "story in pictures" of the feat of this move that the US assisted in both monetarily and on site. This temple was originally positioned so perfectly as to allow light to shine on the altar which is deep inside the tomb, on only two specific days each year - once in the spring and once in the fall. After it was moved - light still shines on the altar twice a year - only one day later - amazing!! The Egyptians are very grateful for our aid.

You can leisurely walk the expansive grounds overlooking the Nile - there is an outdoor cafe for snacks and coffee or an outdoor market, but only one restroom for all these visitors.

Back to the market shops - a jolt back to the 21st century and capitalism!! The market is beautifully done, with curved walkways, flowering shrubs, a waiting area for the buses with benches and lots of shops. For the moment, you forget that you're in Egypt. What a shame - they should have built it at the airport instead and allowed the temples their environmentally natural spot without the commercialism.

Due to the fact that the locks at Edfu on the Nile River were undergoing annual maintenance we had the opportunity to experience a second River Cruiser that docked at Luxor for two nights.(Read cruise overview for write-up of the "King of Thebes" that we cruised from Aswan to Edfu)

This ship is typical of the many that cruise the Nile. In December we encountered twenty or so cruisers - we're told that as many as 300 ply these waters in the summer. Since there are not many docking spaces, the ships are "parallel docked" and rafted against each other. This means that you must walk through four or five lobbies on your way out - it's interesting to see the others. But you do lose your river view and must keep curtains closed since you are looking into someone else's suite on the next ship - could be quite interesting.

The public rooms on this ship were larger and more pleasant that aboard the "King of Thebes" and service was also more polished. Wide open staircases, live plants, waterfalls, better quality of furniture and even cold towels to refresh were offered when returning from excursions.

All 65 suites are ocean-view with two beds and a sitting area with sofa, table and chair. Large sliding glass doors lead to a narrow balcony with standing room only but it does offer a great view of the Nile while cruising. If you have a choice, opt for a room other than on the first deck - these have a moderate size window that does not open. It's at water level (chest-high) rather than a sliding glass door - consequently, this lets in less light and does not allow as panoramic a view.

The room is clean and fairly comfortable - room stewards decorate with towels cleverly made into animals. At nightly turndown, even the spread was made into a crocodile adorned with our sunglasses and the TV control. The bathroom has "Corian" countertops but everything else is of inferior quality - rusting fixtures, flimsy shower doors, no tub, hand-held shower. A hairdryer is provided, but again, the amenities are very small in size. Very little time is spent in the room - it serves its purpose. The bed is comfortable and the temperature well-controlled.

The dining room on the Queen of Sheeba is more elegant and the large buffet table is easy to access. We did have one a la carte dinner served on this ship. The food was not exceptional and as seems to be the mode -it was warm and not hot when served. Even the covers on the buffet servers were always kept open rather than closed. Mainly the food consists of very good lamb, chicken of all kinds, well-done beef, very tasty firm potatoes and lots of fresh vegetables. A pleasant barbecue buffet was served on the top deck by the pool on one warm sunny afternoon. The waiters are attentive but don't seem to anticipate needs. Language again sometimes poses a problem but as soon as they understand your request they smile and are eager to please.

The cocktail lounge is large and comfortable with sofas, chairs and tables. One night was "Egyptian Night" - everyone was encouraged to wear costumes - they were very inexpensive to bargain for at the market and it made for a fun evening. We were again not tempted to have liquor because of our past experience - so it was wine again. This time there were two choices. Take the $14 bottle instead of the $10 one. If you don't finish it - cork it until the next opportunity.

Evening dress is casual. Most men wear sweaters and pants and ladies either long skirts or pants. Daywear should be comfortable and layered. It's cool in the morning (jackets and sweaters) but by noon you can be in shorts and light shirts. Comfortable shoes a must for the amount of walking and climbing.

Liquor is expensive and difficult to find. If you care to have some on board, I'd suggest buying some at duty free on your way into Egypt. Wipes for your face and hands are really handy - and take along extra contact lenses. The desert is very dusty.

What a lovely village – or is it a city?? Our ship is docked in the midst of the village, so it’s hard to tell how big it is. There are about 15 – 20 cruise vessels here today. Docking is at a premium, so the cruise ships are parallel docked and rafted five deep. Since we were the last ones in, we walked through four other ship lobbies to get to the dock – interesting!

This is the furthest point south on this Egypt tour – a sunny, warm spot on the Nile with easy access to lots of history. Abu Simbel is a short flight or a long bus ride away. The town has restaurants, hotels, a large local market and gift shops all within walking distance of the dock.

Make an effort to leave the ship and explore – a 5-minute walk takes you to a very large open-air market at least 15 blocks long. This is not touristy – it’s the real thing. Dirt roads – herbs sold from open flour sacks – butchered animals hanging – coffee, tea, incense, sunglasses, drugstore prescription-type glasses (only $1 US), clothing – all interesting, none really appealing. But the experience is fun. Everyone is friendly and vying for your attention and possible business. They speak to you in five or six languages hoping for a response and some bargaining.

Pharmacies will sell you drugs that are prescription-only in the US at reasonable prices. Our luggage was lost and we were able to replace BP meds, antihistamines, vitamins and antibiotics at less than US prices.

There is a nice walkway along the Nile that takes you past all the docked cruise ships. Internet cafes let you keep in touch with home and cafes are inviting you to while away the few free hours overlooking the Nile and the many sailboats (fellucas) that sail along every afternoon.

If not on a Nile cruise, I recommend the Cataract Hotel. If you are on a cruise, stop by even for a cocktail, dinner, or even coffee and dessert. The grounds are beautiful, the hotel superb, the food gourmet, and it oozes historical significance – British royalty and former heads of states have enjoyed their hospitality and even have entrees on the menu named after them.

Interesting historical sites accessible within ½ hour of Aswan include: the Aswan High Dam (this created Lake Nasser and caused the relocation of the temples to Abu Simbel), the two British dams, the granite quarry where you can see the unfinished Great Obelisk, and also the Temple of Philae.

Aswan is also the place to enjoy an afternoon felluca ride (a sailboat) on the Nile. The Nile cruise spends only one night in port, but we did manage to enjoy all of these activities, including a visit to the perfume shop and the papyrus factory.

If you are not with a guide or on a tour, plan to spend extra time in Aswan, because you will have to find transportation and arrange for visiting these sites on your own, which will be more time-consuming but fun. Probably the best way would be to arrange for a driver/guide to spend the day with you in a rented car or taxi. You will enjoy it.