From Les Eyzies to Beynac and La Roque Gageac

Beynac is a small village under the towering cliffs of the Dordogne valley; it is dominated by the 12th century Castle-Fortress. This was one of the fortresses on the French side of the 100 Year war. It is beautifully located, albeit, sparse in ancient furnishings. However, the views from the castle are fabulous, making it worth the trip up the cliff. It's major hike for old folks like me, but readily accessible by car.

Quick Tips:

There is a very nice parking area along the river in the middle of the town and if you are so inclined a nice place to sit and have a sandwich. Or, across the stree there is a very nice restaurant. Also, from the center of the parking lot there is a pontoon boat that takes the traveler up the river to observe several more castles, all of which are worth visiting, provided you are not scared of driving very steep and narrow roads.

Best Way To Get Around:

The only way around the village is on foot, which is easy since there is one main road along which all the stores are located. However, beyond the village a car is a necessity

This was a real find. It is located at the edge of town on a curve of the highway and remains rather quiet even with traffic since the two brothers who own the place have installed double sashed windows. The rooms are very large, somewhat old-fashioned but very comfortable, with a good bath room. There is a private parking area about 50 ft. from the hotel, a very necessary consideration in this location.

The restaurant matches this wonderful hotel. One of the brothers who own it is classical French chef and the food is truly outstanding. I had the duck breast and my wife had the short breads. We couldn't stop raving about them. The next night we switched and it was great. Service is excellent.

The castle-fortress of Beynac clearly looks like it had complete control over this part of the river and valley. It is of course built of local limestone, has many rooms but relatively few furnishings. It has some of the greatest views in the area, all along the Dordogne valley and down to the town. Further along the road to the castle one finds fine farms some raising the famous geese which yield pate foie gras and duck to delight the palate when prepared by a real chef. There are a series of castles along the river, all of which are worth visiting.

The Dordogne valley is a rather small district with a number of lovely and historically significant villages and and towns. From Beynac one can easily reach La Roque Gageac, a town which clings to the hillside and exposes wonderful views for the eye and the camera lens. It's a great place for a picnic along the grassy river edge with some picnic tables. Follow the stream upriver until you get to the bridge and on the left you will see a small road and a sign pointing to Domme. It is worth the detour. Domme sits on top of the hill and you make a left turn through a suspiciously narrow stone gateway. Climb up to the center where there is a parking area; be careful of the curb you have to jump to back into an empty spot (if you are lucky). Look for the Terrasse de la Barre, the views from there are indescribable. It is as if the whole landscape has been unfolded in front of you.