Braughing (pronounced Braffing) can be approached from either direction of the A120; Bishops Stortford or A10, and turn right or left at Standon and then right a further half mile on. You pass Puckeridge railway station which is still just partially visible. It was part of the Hertford, Ware and Buntingford Line that was axed by Dr Beeching in 1964. The waiting rooms have since been converted into a private house and the platform flower beds restored to their old glory.
Braughing itself is an old fashioned English village, almost untouched by modern life. It is a small, neat and tidy place with its village shop and Post Office and few remaining tradesmen. The village green stretches down to the ford; a little further on is Barwick (pronounced barrick) Ford, neither of which is totally safe when the river is high, or at night. As I have found to my cost when I was new to the area.
Such is Braughing's unspoilt charm that many film companies come here to shoot period dramas - Agatha Christie is one of many authors whose work has been filmed here for TV.
It is famous for three things: sausages, Old Man's Day and the Wheelbarrow Race. Braughing sausages are still produced locally although avaliable in the surrounding towns and villages in some outlets. They are a superb, lightly flavoured with herbs and spices and excellent with mashed potatoes and gravy (or see Old Cross Tavern under Hertford).
I am writing this at the end of October and have forgotten how days pass. Old Man's Day is celebrated every October 2. Over 400 years ago a local resident of Fleece Lane, Mathew Wall died although only a young man. As his coffin was being carried to the church one of the pallbearers slipped, causing the coffin to shake and Mathew was returned to life.
By the terms of his will on the anniversary of his 'funeral' the local schoolchildren sweep Fleece Lane whilst the funeral bells toll in the local church. At evening a song especially written for the occassion is sung in the graveyard and the wedding bells are rung.
Mathew Wall lived to a ripe old age and in his will bequeathed a small parcel of land to the village - Green End, although not so green now as a row of cottages has been built on it.
The Wheelbarrow Race is held on the Braughing Annual Fete day towards the middle or end of July. Together with the usual sideshows and stalls local people dress up in silly costumes and push wheelbarrows of various eccentric designs complete with passenger around a special course in a local field - all for charity.
Take the road up to the Pelhams; Brent, Stocking and Furneaux, pronounced Furnix by the locals but no-one else (we stick to Furn-o). This road takes you through unspoilt English countryside with open fields, high hedgerows, blind corners and lanes where only one car can pass.
Furneaux Pelham used to have two pubs. We had our wedding reception at the Star; now it has gone. No connection I hope! There were several attempts to keep it going as a pub but none succeded.
The Brewery Tap is at the other end of the village, opposite the site of the old brewery. They used to produce Rayments IPA here until Greene King took them over. You can still drink Rayments but it dosn't taste the same - different water!
The Brewery Tap has a large, beautifully landscaped garden with colourful and well maintained flower beds. There are swings for children and plenty of seats for the grown-ups, or the other way round. There is a sense of contentment here that you only find in a secluded but popular English country pub.
The on to Brent Pelham - as has been stated elsewhere, make sure you have a map. The area is well signposted but many of the signs were intended for horseriders and not motorists - in some respects this part of the world still has not reached the twentieth century, never mind the new millenium.
The Cock reminds you of the 1000 piece jigsaw you could never fininsh because all the bits were of thatch or multi-coloured flowers. It has a wide but narrow bar with low ceiling rafters and wooden supports. This too, was a favourite outside location for TV film crews - much of one series of Lovejoy was shot here. Fortunately the previous landlord had already left; he wore short red shorts and dabbed his legs with a liberal measure of after shave to keep the flies away.
From Brent Pelham take the road to Buntingford, through Hare Street and you'll find yourself back on the A10 again - somewhere closer to the modern world.
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