Nothing had prepared me for the moment I crested the hill at the top of the town of Bagnoregio and saw the miniature Italian hilltown of Civita perched on its little tufa pinnacle in an undersized version of the Grand Canyon. Below, the long, narrow pedestrian causeway lined with globed lamps crossed the gorge to the little town. It was probably a quarter-mile hike across the causeway, up the steps, and through the gate in the fortifications. I found a medieval wonderland preserved largely intact for hundreds of years. Interiors have been modernized, but outside everything maintains its historic look. The town is all sandy-colored blocks of stone, gray cobbles, and thick wooden doors.
There were no big sights here, but every view had its delights, as artfully careless as a flower arrangement. I wandered in slow motion and soaked up the ambiance. What would it be like living here in the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, safe in this aerie? At the opposite end of town from the gate, the "back door" leads to a footpath down to the valley floor far below. From here there are magnificent views of the eroded gorges behind Civita. This so resembles the American West, it could be a location for one of Leone’s spaghetti westerns.
This little pinnacle, once much larger, has hosted a town since Etruscan times. A catastrophic earthquake in 1695 caused many people to leave Civita. Subsequent earthquakes led to continuing landslides and the erosion of the pinnacle. A whole palazzo collapsed into the gorge centuries ago, leaving only a beautiful gate to nowhere (on your right soon after you enter the town).
The best visit would be to arrive in the late afternoon to get a snapshot of the town in its best light, have a lingering dinner at Antico Forno, and stay at Franco’s B&B (see entries below). There is only the nightlife you create yourself. Civita is magical in the moonlight, and the whole town is so quiet you can hear eternity breathing. This must have been what things were like in the days before electricity. You’ll hardly believe the chaos of Rome is an hour’s drive away. Have your breakfast, enjoy another leisurely stroll of the town in the bright light of morning, jump in your car, and head off to bustling modern Italy. You won’t soon forget your memorable night in peaceful, medieval Civita.
Quick Tips:
If you want to stay at Franco’s B&B, reservations are advisable because there are no other alternatives in Civita, and Bagnoregio’s options are nowhere near as charming.
If you want a great photo of the entire town from the Bagnoregio side of the causeway (highly recommended if you’re into photos), try to arrive late in the afternoon on a sunny day. In the morning, the town is badly backlit. Unfortunately, I have only been here on two mornings before 10am and one evening when it was very overcast!
Best Way To Get Around:
Within Civita, you have no choice: you must walk. The town is most easily reached by car, which you can park across from the causeway or down the hill just below the first stretch of the causeway. It is also possible to get to Bagnoregio by bus and walk a half-mile or so (moderately uphill) through Bagnoregio to the causeway.
You’ll only find Civita listed on the most detailed of maps. Don’t worry as long as you can find Bagnoregio (a little south of Orvieto and a little west of the Florence-Rome autostrada). Once you get to Bagnoregio, a very small town itself, the way to Civita is well-marked.