The French Quarter, for one, is starkly beautiful in the flicker of gaslights that hide the wreckage of age. Jazz is the city''s voice--Louis Armstrong is from New Orleans--and the music pulls you into the mood of the place, makes you forgive the city''s flaws as if her flaws were her most important attraction. After all, this is the city of masks, where things that were once dark and sinister are put on parade.

No matter what you feel about her after you''ve watched her strut her stuff, she''ll make a mark on your psyche.

Quick Tips:

Go on a haunted history tour in the evening or a cemetery tour in the day. There are several tour operators in the city that have capitalized upon a paranormal atmosphere.

The Napoleon House, once built to be a possible exile haven for the Emperor that shares its name, is a good place to eat a yummy Po'' Boy before a tour in the French Quarter.

Want a NOLA T-shirt? Stop at the Walmart in Slidell on your way out of town. You''ll find these gifty-poos half the price of those you can buy in the French Quarter.

If you''re not into drunken crowds or sauna-like heat, visit in the autumn during the off-season before Mardi Gras. Your hotel will be a lot cheaper, and you''ll be able to see more of the city.

Best Way To Get Around:

A doorman in a top hat and tails helped us with our baggage when we entered the shining lobby. Marble floors, sparkling chandeliers from Europe, and the rich decor that hinted at a French Empire influence all made me feel a bit shabby in my traveling clothes. Our room was also well-appointed.

With a seventh floor view of the bustling street outside, the room we''d call home for the weekend had Louisiana Victorian decor: crimson drapes, flowered bedspreads, down pillows, and mahogany armoire. While small, the black marble bathroom felt elegant, and we read that some of the sinks in the hotel''s large suites are actually plated in gold!

In addition to appreciating the good service and comfortable lodging we received, we liked the fact that the La Pavillon has a history that sets it apart from chain hotels. An assassination plot for Senator Huey P. Long was supposedly hatched here in the 1930s! A bathtub which was a gift from Napoleon is in one of the bathrooms! And then there are the ghosts. ..

While we did not spot any resident apparitions (and we looked), it''s widely accepted that the hotel is haunted. I guess this gives new meaning to the notion that the guests might never want to leave! With the rooftop pool, the complementary peanut butter and jelly sandwiches that are laid out with cocoa for late night snacks each evening, the quick service, and the beautiful setting, who could blame them? I didn''t want to check out either.

Tip: Mothers, a famous breakfast spot with yummy Southern eats, is within walking distance of the hotel. Bon Ton Cafe around the corner on Market is an excellent restaurant for Cajun. The French Quarter is also easy to get to on foot.

A boutique hotel, LeCirque runs with a geometric theme. The sleek lines in the lobby extend upstairs to the rooms. The black and white photography that graced the walls of our room included a lovely, random scene of an angular park bench beneath a glowing moon. You will not find generic floral prints anywhere here. Everything has a shape. Check out the diamond pattern in the window treatments. The rectangles of frosted glass in the bathroom door. The square knobs on the dresser. The decor here is very minimalist with Scandanavian-style furniture: modern and uber cool.

Any negatives?
First, I really liked this hotel. The building in which it is located used to be a YMCA! It's only a couple years old in a decent neighborhood. Yet there were a few red stains on the carpet in our room. Lipstick? Hunch punch? In New Orleans, who can tell? Other signs of wear were noticeable in the hallways. The dark green bathroom with its nice granite countertop was kinda tiny. I also thought it was a bit hokey to charge me an extra six bucks for the Internet access and safe in each room whether or not I used either. Seems to me if I'm not given a choice in the matter, the hotel should just put that in the base rate.

Anything worthy of an extra note?
Robert E. Lee stands high on a pillar right in front of the hotel. Not only does this make the LeCirque easy to find, guests enjoy the convenience of having a trolly stop near this round-about. At the moment, there's no longer a full service restaurant here, but the nightly rate includes a basic breakfast buffet in the dining room downstairs: cereal, muffins, fruit, juice, coffee. I found the staff to be very friendly, happy to answer all my questions about the city. Further renovations and expansion are expected, perhaps the addition of a fitness facility and a new restaurant.

Tip: The hotel has two suites. If they aren't reserved, you can request to upgrade to either one. If it's slow, the chances are you won't be charged extra. Either way, the difference in the rack rate is pretty nominal.

If you don't have a car to park---the $25 fee for the valet is pretty standard for NOLA hotels---you can often enjoy the LeCirque for less than $100/night.

I would stay here again.

The nice, on-site spa with its sauna and exercise facilities is a great place to work out or just relax. Escape the Louisiana heat for the afternoon and get a full body massage, wrap or facial.

If you’d like to buy a timeshare unit at the Avenue, you can do this, too. You’ll notice there’s a timeshare sales facility on site downstairs.

Other cool features?
The thing that makes this hotel really interesting to me is the Ashley House behind the outside pool. During set hours, you can tour this antebellum home built in the early nineteenth century or you can book it for special receptions. Not only is this one of the oldest buildings still standing in New Orleans, the Ashley House is supposed to be haunted by Confederate ghosts!

Convenient Location:
In the Garden District, a streetcar runs right by the hotel’s front door. This gives you access to some of the nicest sections of New Orleans so that you won’t have to try to navigate all of NOLA’s one-way streets in your car. But the first place you need to go after you check into your room is to the Tourism Board directly across the street. Hopefully the giant painting of the three dogs by local artist George Rodrigue will still be on loan from the New Orleans Museum of Art. If not, you’ll still smile at the giant statue of the trumpet player you’ll see when you walk inside. The ladies here will help you sort through some of the many activities you might like to enjoy during your stay near the bayou.

Tourist Tidbit::
If you’re Catholic, you might also want to take a walk down residential Jackson Street where you’ll see St. Marys Chapel. While this quaint building was dedicated in 1997, it is on the site of the first church in the entire state of Louisiana that was built in 1844 for German speaking Catholics. Louisiana has a long history with the Catholic Church. The counties here are still called parishes!

In the hotel’s tiny lobby, the guy behind the counter gave us a warm reception. We got a key for a junior suite and up the stairs we went to the second floor. Almost immediately I began to sense the Prytania Park has a bit of a "hostel" feel. This sense was heightened that much more when a shirtless Australian guy in a zebra striped cowboy hat leaned out his doorway and asked if we wanted to join him and his group for a quick whiskey. (Crikey!) We smiled and walked on by.

So how was our room?
Well, you know… It was okay. There was a small fridge and microwave with counter space in the entryway. The sitting room had a table-desk, sleeper love seat, and a couple of chairs. A narrow, metal staircase spiraled up to a loft area with our bed. The lace curtains, peeling pink wallpaper, and floral blanket weren’t bad. Just a bit tired. Like an old great aunt. With that said, our suite was also clean. There was a tall armoire and dresser for clothes. I liked the dark wood trim. We had a balcony outside our back door that was shared with the room next to ours. Though the hotel was completely full, we did not see or hear these neighbors. Our television got cable, and we had control of the window A/C unit. We turned this onto full blast when we went out for dinner, which made the sitting area chill by morning. Too bad our ceiling fan wasn’t working because the loft area upstairs remained toasty throughout the night. Not too uncomfortable hot. Just kick-off-all-the-blankets warm.

Bottom line?
Just like the mixed reviews I’d read, I have some mixed feelings. This is most certainly not the nicest hotel in New Orleans, but it is most certainly not the worst either…. I’d say it’s somewhere in the middle: an excellent choice, even, for a group of twenty-somethings on a budget. If the hotel were a term paper, I’d give it a solid "C."

Tip:
The free continental breakfast is pretty weak: some apples and packaged muffins. This is fine if you don’t normally eat a big meal when you wake up but not-so-good if you’re a hearty grits lover like me. You can buy juices in the lobby (as well as beer) or walk up to St. Charles and take a left. Walk down to the Please U Restaurant near the doughnut shop. This Waffle-House-like joint has been opened since 1946. You can grab waffles, coffee, eggs, and bacon here for the cost of a fast food meal. Yummy. Enjoy.

The marble tiled lobby of the Holiday Inn Select is paneled in dark wood. A colorful oil is hanging over a small sitting area across from the front desk. A quick scan of some of the other guests waiting here to get their room keys made it evident to me that this is a favorite hotel with some airline pilots and flight crews.

Once in my room I found basic Holiday Inn decor with a dresser, desk and tables made of pickled wood. Some wear and tear was the most noticeable in the bathroom--chipped mirror and the like---but there was a handicap rail in the shower, and everything was clean. There wasn't a remote control for the television, but a gentleman came up from the front desk with a new one for me just a few minutes after I called to point this out. With that unique NOLA accent that is a strange mixture of New York Bronx and Nawlins Creole, he waited politely in the hallway and advised, "Yew betta try it fore I go, Miss..."

Nice features:
On property you'll find a full service restaurant, Chez Tasso, which offers a menu with the likes of steaks, pizza, po-boys, coconut shrimp and crab cake sandwiches. It had already closed by the time I checked in, but I decided to get some potato skins in Huey P's, a bar/lounge which is opened---and provides room service---until midnight.

Highspeed internet access was available in my room. For anyone who doesn't have a laptop with them, there is a tiny business center with computer, fax and printer available.

Several kids were enjoying the indoor pool (no lifeguard on duty) the morning I got up to get breakfast.

There's a gift shop near the front desk and small, coin operated laundry facilities.

The ubiquitous Louisiana daquiri shop is within walking distance.

A free airport shuttle leaves every half hour from early morning until midnight.

Parking is free. Kids stay free. You're still only 15 minutes from the French Quarter.

As for the Holiday Inn rooms, even at full capacity during a festival in July, all was quiet and comfortable.

An extra nice feature:
The Holiday Inn here has an indoor pool on the 10th floor. You'll also find basic cardio equipment in a modest exercise facility.

Traveler's Tip:
If you want a fast, quick meal, go right around the corner to Mena's Palace at 200 Chartes. This place with its slow moving fans, brick walls, wood bar and small tables offers breakfast and daily specials like baked lasagna or lima beans with veal cutlets. I had an awesome muffelata on French here: one of my favorite--and cheapest--meals while in the city. I noticed on the menu that Mena's offers delivery and carry out. You can call 525-0217 for more information.

With two separate buildings the hotel offers 20 executive king rooms, which are spacious for the business traveler. Highspeed Internet access is available along with wireless in the main building. Pale blue walls and dark carpets provide a calming color scheme that works with the floral bedspreads.

I also took a peek into a handicap-friendly room in the standard building. Here the room itself was smaller but the doorway leading to the bathroom was wide so as to easily accommodate a wheelchair. There were also metal safety railings in the tub.

Extra nice features:
This Ramada has a super friendly staff who seem enthuisiastic about working there. With free parking and a frequent shuttle into New Orleans, this would be a great place to save a few bucks if you have to park a car. There's also a complimentary breakfast each morning. A business center provides all the basics. An outdoor pool and a workout facility with cardio equipment help to make a stay more comfortable. Kids were playing chess downstairs in a sitting room. The entire property is clean and well maintained.

Traveler's Tip:
A nice, large mall is within walking distance of the Ramada. I took an afternoon to get a facial at Aveda and a haircut. In the mall you'll find stores like Coach, Old Navy, and Gap. If you want a beignet, there's even a Cafe Du Monde.

When I walked into the stone-floored lobby, it was filled with a group of teenagers in town for a sports tournament. Catering to groups like this one and also targeting business travelers, the Best Western offers several nice features: an outdoor pool, on-site dining, free parking, and laundry facilities.

In the morning you can get a hot breakfast buffet upstairs in the full service restaurant for $7.95. Lunch and dinner choices include sandwiches, steak, shrimp and a catfish basket. Get a table by the windows. The best thing up here is the amazing view of the area around you.

If you don't want to eat in the hotel, there's a Dunkin Doughnuts within walking distance as well as other restaurants nearby.

From the front desk, I took a fast glass elevator up to a room. There I found a very spacious living area complete with loveseat in front of a French style armoire. There was a long desk and high speed Internet access. The wood furniture was a little chipped, and the mint green chair rail and crown molding seemed a bit dull. With that said, the A/C was blasting so that the room was comfortable despite the muggy Louisiana summer heating up the outside. There was a safe with key in the closet, a separate table with a phone, and a great view. Shuttles frequently run into the French Quarter, and there is also shuttle service to the airport. I liked the electric "street lamps" in some of the public spaces....

The Best Western shows a little wear, but it's sure to offer a comfortable stay halfway between the airport and New Orleans.

Lots of guests seemed to like the public areas in this chic hotel, hanging out on the couches near tall bookcases. Think bold colors, blonde wood, and industrial music. The uniformity of the books on the shelves made me think they weren't real, but a quick check showed each of the books simply has a paper cover to protect it.

Up the stairs I found Zoe, a French bistro bar and restaurant. Offering a wide range of choices like eggs Norwegian (poached eggs on a croissant with smoked salmon) for breakfast or fried green tomato appetizers, there's a little something here to whet the appetite of anyone. The chef is Stewart Redhead, so you might want to try the Redfish Redhead for dinner: a sauteed redfish filet with lump crabmeat. Maybe you'll just want drink at the whisky blue bar.

Back to the W.... The way coolest pool I saw while in New Orleans was here. The cabanas have lounging couches and televisions!! There's even a laminated menu with basic bar fare to order. Next to the pool is a fabulous fitness facility with a rack of free weights. True to the style you'll find throughout the W, there was a bowl of lemons and a lit candle on a black table near the gym towels....

What else does the W offer? All the things you'd expect. High speed Internet, spacious rooms, PLUS the ability to bring your pet (with deposit.)

I heard the W didn't fit well in New Orleans---that its urban style works better in bigger cities like San Francisco and New York. I disagree with that assessment. I liked this place. A lot.

Are you more a lover of music than prose? You'll like to know Elvis Presley and Liberace have also stayed here.

Still owned by the same family, the Hotel Monteleone derives its name from its Italian founder's roots. Monteleone means mountain lion. Established in 1886 in a building that once housed Union troops during the War of Northern Aggression (as they say in the deep South), the hotel offers both a sense of heritage and a feel of luxury. The pristine lobby with its sparkling chandeliers and antique grandfather clock (built in 1909) promises all a comfortable stay.

When we went upstairs to our room, we weren't disappointed. An Audubon print hung on one wall. A pale yellow color scheme and striped wallpaper felt romantic. All of the expected ammenities were present including a full minibar in the armoir.

Downstairs we enjoyed a drink in the famous Carousel Bar. The bar itself rotates around and around. It looks like a miniature carousel. We got a seat in a booth and sipped drinks as we listened to the live piano player croon out Sting's Moon Over Bourbon Street. The ceiling in the lounge looks as if it's covered in stars.

In the morning we also enjoyed a lovely breakfast in the restaurant. It was expensive but the made-to-order omelets were worth it. I loved the large selection of fresh fruits. Our waitress was charming. She called me boopsie when she served our coffee.

At one point I also enjoyed using the stair climber in the small fitness center next to the outdoor pool. With a window serving as one wall, I could easily distract myself with the view of a steamboat chugging down the Mississipi River below.

My bottom line? This is a great place to stay. They have some amazing specials, too. They sometimes run a $59/night same day reservations rate. If you can get a room for this, jump on it! This hotel is fabulous.

Features that set the Alexa apart:
Families in particular like the higher ceilings in the Alexa rooms that make these spaces feel BIGGER. Kids love the Nintendo. Everything is decorated to have a European flair. Check out the sizzler summer rates that can dip as low as $59/night.

If you want a luxury dining experience, go to Dickie Brennan's Bourbon House Restaurant with an entrance from the Astor. (The Astor and Alexa buildings are connected so you never have to walk outside.) There's a wonderful Oyster Bar here that promises to please. If you want something more casual, take a quick walk a block or two over to Mena's Palace (525-0217), a great sandwich joint at 200 Chartes cata-cornered from the Walgreens. The muffelata on French ($6.00) is awesome.

Other Alexa pluses?
I thought the staff at the front desk was absolutely first rate friendly. The location is in the middle of the French Quarter just steps from a streetcar. This is a good place to stay.

The Queen and Crescent has a royal sounding name. In the early twentieth century, it was actually the headquarters to a railroad company with a line that began in the Queen City (Cincinnati) and ended in the Crescent City (New Orleans.) Now it's a nice, boutique hotel.

Look at the oil paintings that line the hallways. A lobby chandelier and marble floors, a downstairs lounge and bar, are all the first taste of what should be a comfortable stay. I love the warm brick walls in all the European style guest rooms! Plush robes and minibar are luxury amenities. The fitness facility is sorta small, but you can burn up calories walking around outside. It's an easy walk from the hotel to the river, shopping in the French Quarter or entertainment at Harrah's casino.

The lobby of the Omni Royal Crescent provides a nice sitting area to one side with a chrystal chandelier, faux fireplace, and an iron gate that serves as artwork. The small grandfather clock next to the front desk gives a stately feel to the space. Here you can pick up a newspaper.

Rooms provide European furnishings, striped wall paper, dark woods, comfortable beds, and a couch. Internet access is complimentary. On one floor there is a narrow sundeck that has a shallow pool you can use to dip your feet and cool down. There's also a small fitness facility. I like the fact that the Omni Royal Crescent has two saunas.

One other thing I found interesting here is the Thai restaurant connected to the hotel! The bright orange doorway calls for your attention, and it's an interesting change to the common New Orleans cuisine to have the option of ordering Pad Thai or Red Curry for dinner ($20/plate range.) If you want the traditional American breakfast, no worries. Sliced fruit, eggs, pancakes, and French toast are served in the mornings.

Hop in line and order cafeteria style from one of the attendants wearing paper hats behind the counter. Have a buttermilk biscuit with dirty grits or scrambled eggs with some greasy bacon. If you get coffee, you'll have to walk up yourself for refills.

After you pay, grab a table quick before they're all gone. A waitress will call out your name when your food's ready. Sit down and amuse yourself by looking at all the celebrity pictures on the brick walls. Apparently Republicans and Democrats both get hungry. You'll see signed snaps of Dan Quayle and Al Gore hanging amidst the mugs of famous athletes and a myriad of actors. One thing I also liked was the military wall where pics of marines have a special place of honor. I wondered if the owner was one of the few, proud, and brave.

Bottom line? This is a good place to stop for budget eats when you don't want to get dressed up for a fancy-smancy restaurant.

Inside Bon Ton, we found a large dining room with brick walls echoing a hundred separate conversations. Tables are close together, and the clatter of dishes, tinkling of silverware, and clinking of glasses keeps the noise level at a low roar.

We were seated at a small table with a checkered tablecloth by a shuttered window. Our hostess turned with the rest of us when we heard a loud crash and a whoa! coming from the kitchen. Was it someone''s crawfish etouffee being dropped on the floor? I don''t know. I quickly became engrossed in my menu. There were several "set" meals offered here such as the Crabmeat Imperial with parsley-buttered potatoes and bread pudding in whiskey sauce for dessert ($31.50). The crawfish dinner proved to be a nice sampler platter. The Bon Ton shrimp Creole ended up being the least favorite of the meals ordered at our table--too few shrimp swimmin'' around in the rice--but we all liked the specialty drink, the Rum Ramsey Cocktail.

How was service? It started out strong. The waitress was personable and observant of our needs. Yet there was a definite lag time between our appetizers and entrees. We wondered at one point if we''d been forgotten about! Maybe the waitress thought she was from France? Maybe we didn''t look hungry?

My opinion? Overall I enjoyed this restaurant. It''s been in New Orleans for more than 50 years. The atmosphere isn''t intimate, but there seemed to be a lot of large groups in the restaurant the evening we dined there. It wasn''t a perfect experience for us, but the food was very good. I''d eat there again.

Tip: Bon Ton is in close walking distance of Harrah''s, so if you drop in and put your name on the list for a table at the last minute, you can possibly blow a pleasant hour or two wait before your meal playing the slot machines or tables in the casino.

After going on a self directed walking tour of the neighborhood (the restaurant will provide you with a map of homes that gives details about the architecture), we entered the main dining room with its butter yellow walls and pressed tin ceiling. Since we dined during a jazz brunch, colorful balloons were tied in bunches to the tiny lamps in the center of the tables. Therefore, while this is a fine dining restaurant---shorts are not allowed---the Sunday atmosphere here felt more festive than stuffy to me. We loved the jazz musicians: the trumpet player, the banjo strummer, and the round man with a Louis Armstrong voice and a cello who let out playful growls as he sang, "Oh, that tiger! Oh, oh that tiger!"

I ordered a Bloody Mary, leaned back, and soaked it all up. A series of nature paintings adorn the walls, and a manager pointed out that each of these original by Marilyn Carter Rougelot has a white heart hidden discreetly somewhere within the picture. We amused ourselves looking for these until our waitress returned with our drinks.

Note: Each dining area in Commander''s Palace has unique and different decor. While booked literally months in advance, patrons can actually have a table in the kitchen where they can watch the gourmet chef at work.

Of course, the menu here is the main attraction. Widely acclaimed as one of the best restaurants New Orleans has to offer (and this is high praise indeed!), Commander''s Palace is sure to live up to its reputation at any meal. It was extremely difficult for me to settle on any one thing with the likes of shrimp cognac and andouille grits, muscadine and chicory coffee lacquered quail, and pecan-crusted gulf fish as choices. I settled on a Creole spiced filet mignon that seemed to melt in my mouth. After a spinach salad dotted with candied pecans AND a generous praline parfait for dessert, my appetite was satisfied on every level.

Perfect!

The main dining room has a tiled floor, dark wood, and sparkling windows, but it did not feel very romantic to me. The concierge at our hotel called Arnaud's to let them know about our special occasion---to request a quiet corner---but I'm not sure if this was heeded because our table didn't seem to be in a special place, and no one ever acknowledged why we were there. I didn't expect a glass of champagne, but at a restaurant of this caliber, the waiter should have at least said, "Happy anniversary." But then the service was by far the most disappointing aspect of our meal.

Arnaud's uses a type of "communal" waitstaff. The idea I'm sure is that there are so many waiters attending to your needs that you'll never want for anything. However, this isn't the reality. Instead we had different people seat us, take our drink order, take our food order, etc. I think no one in particular then felt responsible for us, and my husband's gin and tonic sat empty for over twenty minutes. Not good.

Having said all the bad, let's get into the things that make this restaurant famous. To start I ordered the soup du jour, which was a creamy version of French onion made with veal stock. It was delicious. My Crabmeat Karen, an outstandingly light pastry filled with mushrooms and crabmeat, was really yummy. My husband's Crawfish O'Connor gave a local flair to our meal. Other choices include veal or steak, quail or chicken. There are set menus to choose from on those nights when live jazz is played in the dining room. The fresh strawberries marinated in Port wine looked good for a unique dessert.

After your meal, walk upstairs. There you'll find what I really liked the most about this place. There's a Mardi Gras museum full of elaborate gowns once owned by a member of the Arnaud family. I loved the Easter hats.

Bottom Line?
I don't think this was the best choice for a date. I'd say it would be a better choice for a power dinner of executives in town for a convention. The food was good. The service--per fine dining standards--did not meet my expectations.

Yes, I'd still recommend this place, but I wouldn't gush about it.

We had to walk a short way from the streetcar stop to Jacques-Imo's. Once inside we also had a short wait at the narrow bar. The decor is a hoot! I noticed a stuffed boar hanging from the wall that was eating a Barbie doll! Much to our delight, Jacques Leonardi, the chef and owner, came out. In a chef's formal white shirt and shorts I could tell he was a character! My friend and he were acquainted, so he took a moment to tell us about the new restaurant he's opened on the Upper West Side in NYC. If you live up north but want a little Creole with some soul, you should seek this place out. You'll notice the restaurant name of "Jacques-Imo's" is a play on words that comes from "jokamo", a term associated with Mardi Gras.

To get to our table we had to walk through the kitchen. Down a couple of steps we went to a colorful dining room dotted with fairies, dragonflies, and Be Nice or Leave signs. Our waitress brought out sweet cornbread muffins and we ordered what proved to be my favorite dish of the night: alligator sausage cheesecake. Awesome!

As for our main meal... As a Southern girl from Georgia, I'm not used to getting shrimp with their heads still on, but this is how my entree was served: true New Orleans style. Homemade potato chips and corn maquechoux were yummy sides. My husband had a stacked green tomato and crabmeat concoction while our friend enjoyed blackened tuna. Other menu choices like stuffed porkchops or shrimp ettoufee might also whet your appetite.

Jacques-Imo's is very popular, so you might want to try an early dinner. They open at 5pm and are closed on Sundays. Enjoy!

In a building that once housed a manufacturer's machine shop, Tchoup-N-Joes exudes a modern sense of style that is underscored by industrial music, brick walls, and a plain slab floor that's been acid washed and glazed. Silver pendant lights hang over the marble-topped bar, and flat screen TVs playing the colorful Finding Nemo (of all things!) were mesmerizing to me.

We took a seat at one of the tables and had the pleasure to meet Phyllis, the creative force behind the TNJ menu and style. Phyllis also happens to be closely connected to another NOLA institution, Deanies Seafood Restaurant. We asked her to choose an appetizer for us to eat. She chose well. The oyster tacos that started our meal were out of this world, so we knew the main attractions would be a treat.

Here you can order burgers or po-boys, huge porkchops or seafood. We had the Eggplant Napoleon: an eggplant lightly breaded and golden fried that was layered in a creamy crawfish sauce with mozzarella cheese. My husband had a salmon pizza that was outstanding. The best thing? Nothing was over twenty bucks. Delicious. To top it all off we got miniature pies for dessert.

Tip: Try the sweet potato fries. They're a house specialty.

Arriving early (at least early for New Orleans), my friends and I found the place fairly empty (this was to change as the night wore on). We grabbed a table directly in front of the drum set where a band would play a mix of jazz and blues for our entertainment. A very helpful, very young waiter took our order for some basic finger foods like crawfish cakes and tempura. He seemed to get a kick out of us three obvious suburbanites out on the town for the evening, answering all our questions with a broad smile.

"So," my very proper friend with two kids and a minivan at home asks as she perused the drink menu, "what exactly is in the funky butt juice?"

We found further amusement in the menu, which is chocked full of the proprietor''s college boy wit. Fried oysters are proclaimed to be "nature''s answer to Viagra" while Funky chickens are "big golden breast strips from some mighty shapely hens." If you''d like, you can order a full dinner.

Licking the "booty spread" off our fingers, we settled back to hear the wail of a harmonica while a little girl with a big voice sang for us.

What was my overall impression? This was a very cool joint--very in-your-face New Orleans.

Hell, I even bought a t-shirt.

In addition to hosting frequent signings by writers like New Orleans own Goth Queen, the shop keeps important, signed first editions for purchase in a special bookcase on the side wall. The first editions of The Lords of Discipline and The Prince of Tides I bought bearing Pat Conroy''s signature ended up costing me more than my share of our hotel room! Ouch! But I was thrilled to find them.

If your budget doesn''t allow for a collector''s itch, no worries. As you wander the aisles you''ll see lots of signed books at the regular, original hardcover prices that aren''t in the "special" bookcase. I ran my thumb over signatures by notable authors like Rudy Giuliani, Michael Connelly, and others.

In the back of the store you''ll see a wall covered in snapshots, a virtual "who''s who" of the literary scene that you don''t want to miss. As a writer myself, it was fun to pick out the faces I knew, while making it a personal goal to one day sign books of my own in this store. Happy shopping!

In a small group, we gathered in a half-moon shape around our guide who had collected us together on the sidewalk. It had rained and the gas lights reflected off gray puddles of water in the street. I remember thinking to myself that if ever there was a city that provided a good atmosphere for this type of tour, it''s New Orleans. The whole place seems to exude an aura of paranormal mystique.

After introducing himself, our guide explained to us that there were going to be three groups of people within the one group he was leading: 1) True believers in the supernatural, 2) Skeptics along for the diversion, 3) Drunkards who thought they''d paid to walk in a Mardi Gras parade. He was probably right. As for me? I fall somewhere between group one and group two. After all, I''m sure there are some ghosties and ghoulies in the world, but I''m equally sure that the forces of capitalism are just as likely to make spirits rise from the grave as anything else. With that said, when the guide made a lurching BOO! motion in my direction, I splattered half my slushie grenade drink onto my shirt. So much for bravery.

So began the walk.

Now, let me tell you, I am a storyteller, so I appreciate a well-woven tale from the crypt. I wasn''t disappointed. While he didn''t wear a costume of any sort, our guide obviously enjoyed theatrical timing. He reveled in dropping his voice to a hush as he pointed out the apartment where a human "vampire" once lived, the hotel that is still haunted by the screams of Confederate soldiers losing their limbs to a a military surgeon''s saw, the lamp post at which a good priest who happens to be dead is known to still greet people on their way to church, etc.

Bottom line? While I got blisters from my shoes over the course of the walk, I didn''t notice them at all until the tour was finished. BS or not, this was fun to me, and I''d like to do other tours the next time I''m in the area.

As you run your fingers across the spines of books on the shelves, keep in mind that William Faulkner once lived in the building. In fact, he wrote his first novel here in 1925. (He considered himself a poet before he moved to New Orleans, and he had already published a poetry collection before he started writing fiction.)

For those of you who were asleep during your high school English classes, Faulkner is considered one of the greatest American writers of the twentieth century. He won Pulitzers for two of his novels, and then received the Nobel Prize for literature in 1949 (a Pulitzer recognizes the greatness in an individual work. The Nobel recognizes the greatness in a body of work).

Now the Pirate's Alley Faulkner Society hosts a literary festival each year to encourage new authors. Knowing this, it was even more important for me to patronize the bookstore.

The range of books actually packs a pretty big whollop considering the store is basically one small room. If there are more customers than you and the guy behind the counter, it can feel a little crowded! Something special, however, awaits book collectors in the narrow hall to right of the main room. Here in locked glass cases are rare first edition hardbacks. Some are signed. Ask for help to look at a specific title.

As soon as I saw it, I considered buying Joseph Heller's Catch 22 for my husband because it is his favorite book. However, the $800 (!) price tag was a bit much for my wallet. If I'd had that much cash-o-la though, I would have gotten it. Unlike other things that people collect---coins, stamps, vintage posters of Elvis---books to me never seem to collect dust. The written word is a sacred thing: an idea caught in ink. I can think of few things more precious to own.

I also enjoyed looking at a first edition of Lolita. It wasn't signed by Nabokov (Can you imagine what that would be worth?), but it had an interesting twist for the lover of both books and film. Each of the cast members of the fairly recent Lolita movie--a fine fllick, I think--had signed the title page....

So what did I buy? Well, regular, run-o'-the-mill paperback copies of The Sound and the Fury ($10.95) and As I Lay Dying ($11.95), which seemed like fitting purchases to me.

Enjoy!

You'll find several small restaurants that serve a casual lunch in Covington. A friend and I grabbed delicious grilled ham and smoke gouda sandwiches at Coffee Rani (234 Lee Ln/985-893-6158) and then hit the antique shops. In buildings that look as much like houses as stores, we poked through old and new goods, delighting when we found something unique to buy. At Country Corner (Located on Lee Lane) , I uncovered a hardback London guidebook printed in 1919! This little gem had a section discussing why London offered new points of interest because of the world's Great War. Of course the book meant World War I. Hitler's rise to power was yet to come. I snatched this book right up as a gift for my brother who often travels in the United Kingdom. But don't think I'm selfless.

On the same street I also found something to buy for me.

I have to admit it. The state of Louisiana feeds one of my greatest fashion passions. The women here still wear hats! So it's easy to find a good selection for a decent price. As I looked at myself in the mirror at a boutique, I thought for not the first time that I should have been alive in the 1920s because I adore bucket hats, straw hats, Easter hats, any kinda hats... Very fun. With that said, our next stop was also perfectly suited for me: an English tea room!

Owner Stephen Thomson has two English tea rooms in the state: one in Hammond and one in Covington. We stopped in the Covington location for high tea. In a red telephone booth I found something to truly please me.... A hat changing station! Guests both old and young will have a ball choosing the proper hat to wear during their visit. My friend and I grabbed tiny red purses and feather boas as we let out our inner children and played dress up. Then we were escorted by Mr. Thomson himself to the Churchill room. We chose to enjoy our pot of tea on the couch under the portrait of the stately Winston, but small tables dot the establishment. Our host smiled brightly, gave us our menus and earnestly advised us admitted coffee connoisseurs in his beautiful British accent of only one thing: "You must never use half and half in your tea.... Never!"

On the menu we found a series of tempting choices: tea and cake, tea and crumpets, a Windsor tea with assorted pastries and cheese savories.... Yum!

The English Tea Room is located at 734 Rutland Street. The number is 985-898-3988. Check their website at www.englishtearoom.com for more information. The only negative here? My friend couldn't decide on whether or not she should buy the teacup with Queen Elizabeth II on the face or the plate with Princess Di! Lovely time... especially if you have a girl in tow with you.

Other things to see in Covington? Close to the English Tea Room you'll find one of the country's oldest Episcopal churches. The harbor, Columbia Street Landing, has been a docking station since the early 1800s. There's a small park on the river where kids can get out and stretch their legs....

Enjoy!