Silver & Mineral Mines

When in Potosi you must visit the mines unless you are afraid of heights or small tight places. Guides are easy to find. Before visiting the mines we went to the market and bought dynamite, blasting caps, and other explosives as well as coca leaves as gifts for the miners.

The mines consist of small shafts going as deep as 6 layers. When the miners saw us they held out bags hanging from their waists like trick or treaters on Halloween. They were dirty and sweaty but grinned widely at the sight of the coca leaves. They have used coca for centuries to numb their senses so they can continue to work in these conditions. There is no ventilation and the only light comes from gas lanterns. Make sure you visit the diety in the underground museum.

Quick Tips:

Choose your guide carefully. Most do not speak fluent English. We used a guide from our hotel; he was pleasant, but we didn't go to the very bottom layers of the mines. I didn't realize this until it was too late to go back. We bought dynamite and coca leaves, but the miners seemed much more interested in the coca leaves.

Best Way To Get Around:

Potosi is a compact town with most things in walking distance from the center of town. A bus or taxi is necessary to go to the mines.

Price for a double with private bath was approx $12. The hotel doesn't look like much from the street, but inside its unassuming front door, it is very nice. The management is friendly and helpful. A large buffet breakfast is available for approx $2. There is hot water. (in our case too hot the cold was broken). It appears that a new wing of the hotel is being built however we never saw any actual construction on it.

If there is one thing that my partner & I have in common it is that we are both ‘one way people’. We hate to return anywhere the same way. Since neither one of us is the voice of reason this has gotten us into a lot of interesting situations. We were traveling through Bolivia and wanted to get to southern Peru with out going back through Puno. This is how we came to be on a 13 hour overnight bus ride.

Most of the 13 hours was on dirt roads with lots of unscheduled stops. We stopped for every stray person and had more than our share of flat tires. At about one o’clock in the morning the control police boarded and turned on all of the lights and demanded passports. We were a little concerned because Jim had already lost his visa, but they seemed very uninterested in the only Gringos on a very Bolivian bus.

The next stop a few hours later was a little more exciting. Bon fires and loud gunfire heralded it. Huge squads of military surrounded the bus. We all sat in stunned silence. After about 45 minutes our bus along with a long line of assorted other vehicles was guided through a field and around a huge bon fire with lots of locals in the middle of the road. Seems like the locals are tired of low wages and had created a blockade. Once more we were on our way.

The sun had risen over dusty villages and we were wondering at our sanity since we still didn't know how we were progressing the rest of the way through the country when we came to a town we didn't expect to see. Somehow the bus had diverted itself 3 hours south to Potosi. Jim grabbed my hand and our baggage and we departed the bus. So much for our planned destination of Sucre. We were getting off.

Bolivia is very cheap when compared to Peru. Potosi doesn't have the tourist goods that you can find in La Pas, but if you are in need of anything else just visit the local market. People, like in most of the towns, gather around towards late afternoon and a festive atmosphere takes over. For those with strong stomachs and adventurous natures there is great street eating. My rule is if it doesn't have flies on it and/or you can see it being cooked it's good.

Of exceptional value are dynamite and explosives that are used in the mines. For about $1.50 you can blow up a small building if you are so inclined. We were amazed that these things were being sold with no questions asked.

When finished, wander around the main square. It is very pleasant for people watching.