Skiing in the midnight light

Where shall I start? The train trip was admittedly long (approx. 19 hours), but remember two important things before you decide to abandon this journal: firstly, you sleep a considerable portion of it; and secondly, the scenery is spectacular. Endless forests, crystal clear lakes, green, green fields, and little wooden houses. It is mesmerising, not so much dramatic, but calm, tranquil and simply beautiful. And as we started to approach the north, the scenery changed. Two notable differences: one it became more dramatic as we approached the mountains; and secondly, there were fewer and fewer little, wooden houses. The wilderness began . . .

A break from skiing is a must since runs open this late in the season (remember we are talking late June) are few and far between, so I grabbed the opportunity of a hiking trip into Norway. I joined a group and took a train westwards, a stunning trip through snow-tipped mountains, the train track clinging to the mountain edge, taking us over the Swedish border into Norway. The train pulled up to the station, a solitary house actually, and here we began our descent, following the rushing river, into the valley below towards the calm waters of the fjord. Looking out across the fjörd, you can’t help but admire the clarity and depths to the surrounding colours. And to top it all, with not a soul in sight, you feel as if you own it.

Quick Tips:

The period when you are allowed to ski at midnight varies year to year, but most often it’s from the end of May to the end of July.

Even better, get there for midsummer night itself, an important Swedish tradition. The entire length and breadth of Sweden celebrates midsummer with traditional folk songs and plenty of dancing around a maypole – good, innocent fun for all the family.

Remember that weather conditions are unpredictable this far north. I was lucky -- the sun was shining and the snow was underfoot, but the clouds can come in without warning obscuring the all-important midnight sun and the rain can pour down! However, looking on the bright side, it is midsummer, so if there’s ever a day in the year that should be sunny, this is it. I have endlessly heard about the swarms of mosquitoes to be found in these parts. I never experienced them, but be warned -- if you are around when they are, then protect yourself!

Best Way To Get Around:

I took the train from Stockholm to Riksgränsen (19 hours in total), but a truly wonderful journey. The train is comfortable (request the cabins with beds) and the views spectacular. Once there, really you need nothing -- just a pair of skis and your hiking boots.

There is only one hotel in the tiny village of Riksgränsen, so this is where it all happens. The hotel is very pleasant, not high luxury, but certainly more comfortable than I would have expected for being so in the middle of nowhere. There is a choice of rooms available - hotel rooms and also various sizes of apartment. The apartments are comfortable and equipped with kitchens and private bathrooms. Simple but perfectly adequate - many with unrestricted views over the wilderness. Much cheaper, by the way, if you choose to take one of the special package offers - for example, £175.00 (approx $260) for three nights' accommodation in a private appartment (based on two sharing) and the return train journey to Stockholm - exceptional value, I think!

I joined a group and took a train westwards, a stunning trip through snow-tipped mountains, the train track clinging to the mountain edge, taking us over the Swedish border into Norway. This railway, in fact, has a fascinating history; called the Malmbanan, it was built to transport the huge amount of rich iron ore mined in the area from as early as the middle of the 17th century. Today, it connects the Bothnian coast with the Atlantic coast and is still proudly Europe’s northernmost line. The train pulled up to the station, solitary house actually, and here we began our descent, following the rushing river, into the valley below. After a couple of hours of breathing the freshest, purest air that I had for a long time, we came to Rombaksbotten fjord, a true delight to the eyes. Looking out across the fjord, you can’t help but admire the clarity and depths to the surrounding colours. A whole spectrum of shades of blues from the ocean and greens from the forests are pierced by the snow white clouds lingering in the sky. And to top it all, with not a soul in sight, you feel as if you own it.

We then took a little motorboat and head out of the fjord, leaving Rombaksbotten far behind. Just before leaving the fjord, we passed a huge, half sunken warship, its bow breaking through the water. The driver pulled up alongside the ship and explained that this is what is left of a German ship, sunken during World War II. It had been deliberately left as a reminder of the horror and stupidity of war. We continued on our way through the fjord. Suddenly, the mountain scenery was interrupted. A colourful town was perched in the mountains, descending delicately down to the water edge. We had reached Narvik, an important Norwegian port, still today transporting the precious, Swedish iron ore around the world. Wandering the busy streets, everything appeared normal with the sun high up in the sky, but somehow you can’t help contemplating the locals and the flip side of the midnight sun. These people live 3 months of the year in almost complete darkness. Quite a thought.

Ski resort may be a bit of an ambitious name for Riksgränsen; it has a handful of pistes, a hotel (quite a big one, though), and a small supermarket. But that is where it ends. So you don’t come here for mile upon mile of pistes, nor disco dancing into the night; you come here because it is remote, untouched, pure, and light all the time. For almost two summer months, Riksgränsen experiences the midnight sun. Literally the sun is up, and hopefully shining, when it is 12am. And to appreciate this anomaly at its best, this little village lets you loose on the slopes on certain days to ski until 1am. Never before have I asked the question, “It’s midnight, what shall I do?? Go to bed or go skiing?” but tonight I did. We take the chair lift up to the only piste that is still open this late in the season (fortunately, because Riksgränsen has only the one hotel, it is never horribly busy despite the lack of runs available). June 21st, 12:00 strikes and here I am, at the top of the mountain looking across miles and miles of great wilderness with the sun in the sky and the snow underfoot. Just time for one last run down to the bar, feeling somewhat inspired.

Sunshine in my eyes, crunchy snow underfoot, rugged mountains all around. Sounds like a typical day in the Alps. Well, that is true, but there is just one minor difference. It is midnight. Yes, I am skiing and it is sunny and it is midnight. And it is unforgettable. I have skied for years now and this is the one and only run that I will remember forever.

Riksgränsen is the name of this unlikely ski resort. It lies high up in the northern extremes of Sweden, on the border with Norway and close by the important mining town of Kiruna. Well some 100km away but remember that is as good as ‘next door neighbours’ up here where villages are more than often a days outing away. Ski resort may be a bit of an ambitious name for Riksgränsen; it has a handful of pistes, a hotel (quite big one though) and a small supermarket. But that is where it ends. So, you don’t come here for miles upon mile of pistes, nor disco dancing into the night, you come here because it is remote, untouched, pure and light, all the time. For almost two summer months, Riksgränsen experiences the midnight sun. Literally the sun is up, and hopefully shining, when it is 12.00am. And to appreciate this anomaly at its best, this little village lets you loose on the slopes on certain days to ski until 1.00am. Don’t get me wrong though, Riksgränsen may well not offer the great quantity of runs found in the Alps but it is famed throughout Scandinavia for its testing off piste runs and remarkably beautiful cross country skiing.

Although the midnight sun can be enjoyed for some months, the ski season (which starts in early December) ends after the all important midsummer weekend. First, I must explain that midsummer is an important Swedish tradition. Even in the far south, some 2000km from where I stand now, it is celebrated with traditional folk songs and plenty of dancing around a maypole – good, innocent fun for all the family. Here at Riksgränsen, after the usual festivities and dancing, it is time to ski. Never before have I asked the question, "It’s midnight, what shall I do?? Go to bed or go skiing?" but tonight I did. We take the chair lift up to the only piste that is still open this late in the season (fortunately, because Riksgränsen has only the one hotel, it is never horribly busy despite the lack of runs available). June 21st, 12.00 strikes and here I am, at the top of the mountain looking across miles and miles of great wilderness with the sun in the sky and the snow underfoot. Just time for one last run down to the bar, feeling somewhat inspired.

I was lucky, the sun was shining and the snow was underfoot but remember that weather conditions are unpredictable this far north. The cloud can come in without warning obscuring the all important midnight sun, and the rain can pour! However, looking on the bright side, it is midsummer so if there’s ever a day in the year which should be sunny, this is it.

As I think I have made quite clear, Riksgränsen is remote and far from anywhere that you are likely to have heard of. However, it is not as impossible to reach as it might seem, nor does it cost an arm and a leg. I took the train from Stockholm central station at 1730 and stayed on it until 12.45 the next day. A long time. But it passed wonderfully quickly. Once out of Stockholm, the scenery begins. Endless forests, crystal clear lakes, green, green fields and little wooden houses. The scenery is mesmerising, not so much dramatic but calm, tranquil and simply beautiful. It is so refreshing to see so much unspoilt countryside. As we start to approach the north, the scenery changes. Two notable differences; one it is becoming more dramatic -- we are approaching the mountains and secondly, there are fewer and fewer little, wooden houses. The wilderness begins…

Skiing is not the only activity on offer, it is the height of summer so hiking, canoeing, even swimming (for the extremely brave and insane) are all alternatives. I joint a group and took a train westwards, a stunning trip through snow tipped mountains, the train track clinging to the mountain edge, taking us over the Swedish border into Norway. This railway has in fact a fascinating history; called the Malmbanan, it was built to transport the huge amount of rich iron ore mined in the area from as early as the middle of the 17th century. Today it connects the Bothnian coast with the Atlantic coast and is still proudly Europe’s northernmost line. The train pulls up to the station, solitary house actually, and here we begin our descent, following the rushing river, into the valley below. After a couple of hours of breathing the freshest, purest air that I have for a long time, we come to Rombaksbotten fjord, a true delight to the eyes. Looking out across the fjord, you can’t help but admire the clarity and depths to the surrounding colours. A whole spectrum of shades of blues from the ocean and greens from the forests are pierced by the snow white clouds lingering in the sky. And to top it all, with not a soul in sight, you feel as if you own it.

We then take a little motorboat and head out of the fjord, leaving Rombaksbotten far behind. Just before leaving the fjord we pass a huge, half sunken warship, its bow breaking through the water. The driver pulls up alongside the ship and explains that this is what is left of a German ship, sunken during World War II. It has been deliberately left as a reminder of the horror and stupidity of war. We continue on our way through the fjord. Suddenly, the mountain scenery is interrupted. A colourful town is perched in the mountains, descending delicately down to the water edge. We have reached Narvik, an important Norwegian port, still today transporting the precious, Swedish iron ore around the world. Wandering the busy streets, everything appears normal right now with the sun high up in the sky, but somehow you can’t help contemplating the locals and the flip side of the midnight sun. These people live 3 months of the year in almost complete darkness. Quite a thought.

Back at Riksgränsen, a spot of sunbathing on the terrace before the train approaches. Plenty of hours remain to contemplate this remarkable five day long trip: One day on the mesmerising train watching the best of the almost forgotten Swedish nature glide by. Two days enjoying the last snows in all Europe. One day taking advantage of the northern nature and hiking to the secluded, Norwegian fjord. And last but absolutely not least, one utterly memorable midnight, standing atop the mountain watching the midnight sun ready to take the last run down to the bar for a mug of hot ‘glögg’. Five days well spent.

Trip was organised Viking Trails, info@vikingtrails.co.uk, + 46 8 252529.