A Taste of Cassis

Arriving mid-morning on a Friday on the bus from Marseille, I found a busy farmer’s market in progress off to my right as I walked from the bus stop down to the harbor. I wandered about a while and finally purchased a picnic lunch of crusty bread, goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, cherries, and soda. I could easily have bought a lot more, as this market featured the full range of regional taste treats, but I had only one stomach to pack them into!

It was an absolutely gorgeous day in late May, with a bright blue sky, but even that couldn’t have accounted for the beautiful turquoise color of the water in the harbor. There was a row of somewhat quaint little restaurants and shops lining the waterfront, and a number of cafes where you could have your meal with a view of the sailboats at anchor. Having bought myself a picnic, I ate my lunch at the town beach (to your left as you’re facing the harbor, or just past the kiosk selling tickets for the boat tours of the calanques). If you’re not there on market day, there’s quite a selection of restaurants and cafes, many of which looked pretty good.

The big activity in town aside from sunning on the beach or on the rocks is the boat tours. Be sure you take one, as the coastline around Cassis is absolutely stunning and not to be missed. While you could undoubtedly hike along the cliff tops, it will not compare to the views you will get from one of the boats. There are also a few interesting shops, although admittedly with prices that fully acknowledge the tourist presence.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

A car is of no use whatsoever in Cassis. Once there, you’ll be on foot. If you arrive by car, park as soon as you find a parking lot, as the farther you go into town, the worse the parking situation becomes. The easiest way to get to Cassis is by bus from Marseille. Take the Metro to the Castellane stop (strangely enough, NOT the bus station next to the train station) and find the bus stop for Cassis. You can buy your ticket directly from the bus driver (about €7 each way). When you disembark in Cassis about half an hour later, be sure to note the return times to avoid a long wait at the Cassis bus stop, where there is no bench. I believe it is also possible to get to Cassis by boat from Marseille; check with the SNCM kiosk on Quai des Belges at the Vieux Port (across from the Tourist Information office).

At the kiosk by the harbor, you can buy tickets for a tour of either three, seven, or ten calanques. I chose the seven-calanque tour, which takes about an hour and a half, and paid up. Your ticket will tell you which dock to stand at. It’s a good idea to be waiting on your feet by the appropriately numbered sign well ahead of the appointed time, as seating on the boats is first-come, first-served, and all seats are definitely NOT created equal. The right side is much better than the left, as that is the side facing the coast on the way out, when the boat is entering the calanques. On the way back, the boat pretty much speeds along a way out from shore, and you don’t get the same great view. If you’re planning to take pictures, it’s to your advantage to find a seat on the outside of the bow, at least if it’s not too windy and the sea is calm (no spray), or alternatively where you will not be looking through a window.

I also suggest wearing sunscreen and/or a hat, as it is often very bright out on the water. Consider bringing a windbreaker if it’s breezy or cloudy, as the temperature may be a little cooler out on the water.

The commentary on the tour was entirely in French, which I don’t speak, so I didn’t get the benefit of whatever information was being presented. On the other hand, short of not getting the geological skinny on the formation of the cliffs and inlets, I’m not sure I cared. The views were tremendous (see photos!). The coastline consists of high white cliffs studded with trees. You can occasionally see hikers on the top of the cliffs, and where the cliffs are much lower, there are often sunbathers, especially closer to town. The actual "calanques" you paid to see are inlets in the cliffs. Some of these are quite striking. One of them is lined by rocky spires, with a "castle" nestled in the middle. Another has a slit just a few feet wide – wide enough to swim through, but far too narrow for a boat. I guarantee you will not be disappointed.