Naples Journals

Living for the day

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An October 2003 trip to Naples by perrytoo

Quote: This place is like no other. Not suitable if you’re just looking for somewhere relaxing, but ideal for anyone who likes a bit of attitude with their historic sites, and isn’t too hung up about accurate information.

Living for the day

Best Of IgoUgo

Overview

Quote:
Go to the Via Toledo. This is the main shopping street, often pedestrianised, with eighteenth century palaces alternating with the boutiques of all the leading Italian designer fashion houses. Running steeply off up the hill behind it are the notorious back streets of Naples; home of the Camorra, too narrow for two cars to pass, and lined with high tenement blocks, their balconies streaming with the blue and white colours of Napoli football club. I know of nowhere else where the contrasts of modern city life are marked so sharply.Quick Tips: Qui Napoli (free monthly guide in Italian and English, available in public places) is indispensable, and a lot more knowledgeable than the various touris...Read More

Hotel Speranza

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Hotel

Quote:
Not particularly friendly reception, in an oldish building two blocks from the central railway station. Everything seemed a little rickety, and some rooms were being noisily refurbished. Unusually for cheap station hotels everywhere, it’s on the lower floors of the building (although there is no lift). My room was large, white-painted, with plastic cladding along the lower part of the wall, the kind you find used for cheap showers or edging flower-beds, and turquoise tiles on the floor. Big double bed, with soft lumpy mattress. The room was on the second floor, with a small balcony overlooking the main street, the better to observe the Neapolitan passion for noisy driving. There was a hand ...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on November 8, 2003

Hotel Speranza
Via Palermo 31
Naples, Italy 80142
(081) 269-286

Hotel Nettuno

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Hotel

Quote:
I had more or less given up hope of finding any suitable accommodation in Naples when I tried the Nettuno. It’s very central, just off Piazza Bovio, on the edge of the old town, close to the University, but within a block of the main bus routes. The building is an old courtyard block, I have no idea how old, and the hotel is on the top floors (there’s a good lift), with a reassuringly firmly-locked wrought-iron grill at ground level to discourage unwanted strangers. (Ring the bell, say you want a room, and they’ll let you in to discuss it.) Arriving at the fourth floor, the space is tastefully modernised–-white walls, terracotta tiles, hanging plants in majolica containers, and old wooden blanket ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 8, 2003

Hotel Nettuno
Via Sedile di Porto 9
Naples, Italy
(081) 551-0193

Le Fontane al Mare

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Hotel

Quote:
I had high hopes of this hotel, which was recommended in a couple of guidebooks. It is situated in a 17th century palace overlooking the bay at the nicer end of town and was described as one of the few acceptable cheap hotels in the city. The hotel reception is on the 5th floor. The room I was offered was small, dark, and gloomy, at the back of the building next to the liftshaft and main door, with no natural light and inadequate artificial lighting. The en suite bathroom was equally depressing–-cramped and shabby. At 50 euro a night (including breakfast) it didn’t seem attractive, and I suspect I would have been paying for someone else’s sea view at the front. The decider was having to pay 10 cen...Read More

Member Rating 1 out of 5 on November 8, 2003

Le Fontane al Mare
Via Tommaseo 14
Naples, Italy
(081) 764-3470

Viale Dohrn

Attraction

Quote:
Outdoor antique market held twice a month on Saturday and Sunday mornings. There doesn’t seem to be any regular pattern as to which two weekends (this is Naples), so check first with the tourist office, website, or Qui Napoli (which is the most likely to be accurate). The market is spread out along both sides of the Viale Dohrn, closed to traffic for the occasion, which runs through the Chiara park by the seaside, just west of Castel d’Ovo. It’s an ideal location; lots of space for parking, hard standing (although no cover), accessible, close to public transport, and room for several hundred stalls. It was described in my guidebook as gigantic, but on the Saturday I visited there was only a handf...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on November 8, 2003

Viale Dohrn
Viale Dohrn
Naples, Italy

Terme di Agnano

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Attraction

Quote:
This is the real thing. Takes place every Sunday morning, throughout the year. At 10.00am it was packed, and cars were still pouring in at 11.00am, even at 1.50 euro a throw. If you don’t have a car, take the number 2 bus from Piazzale Tecchio, and get off at Terme di Agnano (when everyone else gets off). It is primarily for locals (I didn’t hear any foreign voices), and has something for everyone, with a small well-used children’s playground, as well as the stalls (and some excellent food and drink). The goods are mainly second-hand, with only a sprinkling of new things. You can buy everything that is available at viale Dohrn, as well as old clothes, used children’s toys, electrical goods and to...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 8, 2003

Terme di Agnano
Terme di Agnano
Naples, Italy