Heat Wave in Stockholm

It is a city both modern and old. Glass skyscrapers abound, stylish bars, clubs, and sidewalk cafes. One night at one of the hotspots at Stureplan should be enough to satisfy those most demanding clubber.

At the same time one is never more than a few minutes away from twisting medieval streets and waterside promenades. Walk down history lane through the cobbled stone alleys of Gamla Stan (Old Town). Then stroll down to the Royal Palace, if you're lucky you might be able to witness the changing of the guards.

For lunch, if you are not too worried about the price, indulge yourself and go to the Grand Hotel a place for many grand, prestigious festivities. Ask for a table on the veranda for a nice view of Lake Malaren. Just a warning, they will not seat you if you are wearing shorts.

For families with children catch the Nybroplan ferry to Djurgarten, at the hilltop you can visit Skansen, an open air museum with some 150 buildings. It is a wonderful "Sweden in miniature". Wander between the zoo, glassblowers hut, windmills and the handicraft area. Watch the daily activities that happens on Skansen's stages. If you choose not to walk, for a few krona you can ride the miniature train.

Also at Djurgarten next to the lake is an Amusement Park called Gruna Lund. It is a great place to spend an afternoon with your kids. They can enjoy the rides while you enjoy the beautiful view of the bay.

Quick Tips:

If you will be making a lot of phone calls renting a mobile phone is a must. We were staying at the Sheraton, it was a shocker to find out that a phone call from our hotel room to a cell phone cost a minute. After a few days, all those calls to our friends that we thought were local calls costed us an arm and a leg.

Best Way To Get Around:

Best way is either by taxi or walking. From Sheraton everything is a few minutes walk. Just wear comfortable footwear, walking on those cobblestoned alleys is very hard on your feet.

The hotel is centrally located right in the heart of the city. It is only 2 minutes walk to the Central Station and the airport buses, walking distance to shopping, restaurants, museums, and many of Stockholm’s' must see sights. It offered views over Lake Malaren, City Hall, and Gamla Stan (Old Town).

The hotel has over 400 very spacious rooms by Stockholm standard, junior suites and executive rooms, the beds were comfortable with lots of pillows. If you must connect with someone while you are on your pleasure trip bring your laptop as I did, rooms are equipped with high-speed internet connection and cable TV. If you get a room away from the bank of elevators, it is quite a walk down the hallway especially if you have stopped by the crystal shop at the lobby to load up on your Orrefors collection. There was a bowl of fresh apples replenished often just outside the elevators. And, because it is just across the train station, you hear the continuous drone of the traffic when the windows are open. However, the windows are soundproof and large, so if a little noise bothers you just keep them close.

The staff at the front desk was very efficient and very attentive. The rooms have minibars, but beware: the contents were as usual, very pricey. Because we were staying for two weeks, we needed a small refrigerator to store drinks and snacks for our 8-year-old son. Obviously, they do not have over 400 refs in stock, so make a request as soon as you can. When I first made the request, they were out. However, they really made an effort to get me one. The concierge at the lobby was very helpful and armed with various brochures, maps and literature of the city. The lobby is very typical of a big five star chain hotel, lots of marble, huge vases with beautiful fresh flowers every few days, a cozy lobby bar with leather upholstered seats for a late night cap.

There were two restaurants: Liberty Kitchen and Die Ecke. For breakfast, we went to Liberty Kitchen where they offered a buffet with selections that included 3 types of pickled herring and accompaniments. If you have never tried it before, now would be a good time. If breakfast is not included in your room rate, the cost was approximately $22/person, with no child discount. Liberty To Go is the deli part of Liberty Kitchen where you can order food to go. Die Ecke served authentic German homely fare. Down the street or around the corner there were many restaurants that offered meals for a lot less. Also around the corner across from the central station, there was a money exchange -- the rate was higher than what you would get at the hotel lobby.

Ulla Winbladh is beautifully situated in the midst of Djulgarden Island surrounded by nature, peaceful and near the water. There is a more formal main dining room decorated with works of well-known Swedish artists and a summer time only outdoor dining on a lovely terrace surrounded with an explosion of beautifully colored flowers.

On the menu, you will find traditional Swedish home cooking such as meatballs and a selection of International cuisine all impeccably prepared in the true Swedish spirit and presented in a true gourmet style. Fish selections vary from marinated herring and dilled salmon for appetizers to a saffron laced turbot and a whitefish with Pernod sauce. And for the meat lovers such as my husband offered are the perfectly prepared tenderloin steak with artichoke and a rack of lamb flavored with bacon. Food not only impeccably prepared but also a celebration for the palate. Also has an impressive wine list.

Ulla Windbladh is both historic and exclusive frequented by even the most jaded of Swedish High Society; the Swedish Royal circle, well known TV, theater and art-world personalities are said to be regular patrons. In 1996 Chef Emel Ahalen was presented a medal by the king of Sweden for his proficiency in preparation of Swedish cuisine.

The staff both friendly and professional all speak flawless English. Very accommodating to my 8-year-old son, even prepared French fries with his meal. Take a table on the outdoor terrace, it has great ambience.

Very pricey but accepts all sorts of credit cards. A 12-15% service charge plus a 21% value added tax are added to the bill. Proceed carefully when ordering wine and any alcoholic beverages because it can be lethal to your budget. Food is very expensive in Sweden, for those on a budget self-service cafeterias abound.

OperaKallaren (the Open Cellar) is said to be the indisputable flagship of Swedish restaurants. Priviledged with a star in the Guide Michelin, it is classed as a historic monument situated in the building housing the Opera. Rebuilt at the end of the nineteenth century, the interior was done in lavish style--carved oak walls, crystal chandeliers, plush velvet chairs, Oriental carpets, and grand paintings. The atmosphere is formal with a beautiful view over the Royal Palace and Lake Malaren. It is centrally located just a couple blocks from the Grand Hotel and across the lake from Gamlastan.

The food is elaborate French cuisine along with Swedish specialties such as reindeer and elk. The cooking is sumptuous and imaginative. The menu boasts langoustine soup with langoustine tail and caviar, lobster with seasonal mushrooms with roe, glazed duckling breast, and pigeon breast roasted in hazelnuts. The food is delicious and the presentation exquisite. The dessert, black currant souffle with fresh cheese and vanilla ice cream, is the best. It is a gastronomical celebration for all the senses. OperaKallaren is definitely a first class restaurant touting itself as a "gastronomical temple of gourmets"

The chef, Stefano Catenacci, reigns. Although the staff are a little stiff, they are very competent and provided the highest standard in culinary experience. The restaurant operates on the highest international standards and caters to both pleasure seeking Stockholmers and well-heeled visitors. It has also been honored membership in the prestigious association of restaurants "Le Grandes Table du Monde, Traditions/Qualite".

The main dining room is open daily from 6pm-10pm, whereas the other sister restaurants in the same building; Cafe Opera, Operabar, and Bakfickan are less elaborate but with equally impressive menu keeps longer hours: Monday thru Friday 11:30-3am; Saturday and Sunday 1pm - 3am.

At OperaKallaren, no cellular phones are allowed and men are required to wear jackets. The menu is very expensive; dinner including appetizer and dessert without drinks can set you back $100/per person. The usual 15% service charge and 21% value added tax are included in the bill. Not children friendly.

Cafe Opera is the hipper younger sister of Opera Kallaren Restaurant(Opera Cellar) perhaps the most beautiful restaurant in Stockholm. It is ideally located just across the lake from the Grand Hotel inside the Opera House next to the Kungstratgarden. The ambience is rich on the border to snobbish, the location is beautiful. Once a place only for the beautiful, rich and famous, it now welcomes everyone.

The food is delicious and Swedish cuisine is the chef's menu of choice for both lunch and dinner crowds. Very pricey, if you are on a budget the place can be lethal. There is a main dining and an outdoor seating. Our view of the park included children playing on a makeshift flying trampoline.

The staff are young, very good looking and very attentive. Our server, who might have just popped out of GQ magazine, even entertained our 8-year-old son with a little magic. When my husband (an original Stockholmer himself who since moved to US) asked for a drink, Sbarta VinBerg (obviously favored by the moneyed Stockholmers for the fact that all their bottles are empty), "GQ" sprinted at another restaurant next door to fulfill my husband’s hearts' content. He also did not bat an eyelid when I asked to be moved to another table because Mr. Chimney sits at the next table to us.

Cafe Opera turns into Revolver Nightclub after dusk. Easy to get in on weekdays; however, on weekends you’d better be either connected with the guards, good-looking, or show a VIP card because it is difficult to get in. The dance floor is pretty small, make sure that humping and grinding in a confined space is your thing. Go, have a drink and mingle, just do not forget to look at the beautifully decorated ceiling. Daytime patrons are a mix of all ages. The nightclub welcomes younger dressed-to-impress beautiful people. Ugly is not a word to use with this crowd.

Drottninggattan is a long cobblestone walking street/alley very popular with the locals. Start in the morning just north of Gamlastan (Old Town) next to the Parliament Bldg. Here you will find almost everything. There are sidewalk cafes, restaurants, small food stores, bookstores, and small boutiques as well as big chain stores like H & M, PUB, Brothers, and Ahlens City. Cross Kungsgattan (another bigger shopping street) and continue north, this is approximately 3 kilometers of shopping.

For lunch, make a quick stop at one of the sidewalk cafes or a cozy restaurant. Then head back to Ahlens City at the corner of Drottinggattan and Kungsgattan. Ahlens City is a huge upscale department store where you will find everything. If you are staying in a timeshare where you are lucky enough to get a kitchen, then do not miss going down to the basement and do your grocery shopping here. Fresh seafood, veggies, anything you desire. If you do not like to cook, buy pre-cook. Last summer my 8-year-old son and I discovered the tastiest pre-cook fresh prawns here. Ask for the Aioli sauce, they have the best. If going here Friday afternoon or Saturday, expect droves of people.

Another upscale department store is NK on Kungsgattan.

No trip to Stockholm is complete without an excursion to the Archipelago. The Stockholm Archipelago has 24,000 islands and is a unique natural experience. You will see beautiful Islands, beaches, fjords, narrow channels and straits.

Sandhamn is perhaps one of the best known excursion destinations. It is the centre for sailing. The Swedish Royal Yacht Club was established here 100 years ago and Sandhamn is now the home of the Royal Sailing Club. The island has about 100 permanent residents living in a very picturesque village with narrow alleys and closely built houses worth exploring. Near the harbor are a couple of hotels, small shops and restaurants. At night, these restaurants come alive with music and dancing, this is perhaps the best party town in the archipelago. With its fine sandy beaches, Sandhamn is ideal if you want a swim or even scuba dive.

There were 40-60ft luxury yachts, motorboats, gin palaces, and royal barges on the harbor. Oh well, it was the mid-summer holiday for the Swedes and this is the home of the Royal Yacht Club, after all.

Take the ferry ride to Sandhamn from the ferry harbor in front of the Grand Hotel. The boat trip takes a leisurely couple of hours. You can also take one of the old-fashioned steamers that takes about 3 hours. On our way, we witnessed a couple of nude sunbathers on one of the rocky atoll along the way. A sight to behold . . . or not.