Independent Traveler's Guide to Juneau

The view of the Juneau and the surrounding area was unforgettable, as we approached on our Alaska Airlines flight from Seattle. The Eagle, Herbert, and Mendenhall Glaciers came into view. With time and money, you could easily spend more than a week in Juneau and not run out of things to do. You need at least one full day to see the obligatory sights of downtown Juneau and the Mendenhall Glacier. With a long day, you will even have time to fit in a helicopter ride over the glaciers or a whale watching tour (if it fits your budget). For a short visit, a car is not really necessary in Juneau. However, rentals are cheaper here than in most cities in Southeast Alaska. You can also whale watch, bear watch, hike, explore a gold mine, visit a salmon hatchery, or attend a salmon bake. Juneau is the one port that does have pretty much all the typically Alaskan sights and activities, while being unlike any other city in Alaska in many respects.

Quick Tips:

Like many people who live in the region, my travels began and ended in Juneau. All main line ferries stop in Juneau both ways, though it cannot be approached by road. Almost all commercial flights to the region also stop in Juneau.

Please note that Juneau is located in a temperate rain forest. Dress in layers with emphasis on the rain coat. A fleece under-layer is almost always sufficient in the summer.

If you are planning an independent tour of the region by ferry, you do not have to sacrifice the excitement of a close encounter with a tidewater glacier. (A given on cruise itineraries.) For a fraction of the price of independent excursions to Glacier Bay National Park, Adventure Bound and Goldbelt offer all day boat excursions to Tracy Arm. The wildlife and scenery are on par with anything Glacier Bay has to offer, with added bonus of another night in Juneau.

Best Way To Get Around:

The public transportation options are generally good, with a couple of notable gaps. (You can almost get to the ferry terminal and to the glacier. Both require a one to two mile walk from the bus.) Many hotels are on the bus line and many offer a free ferry/airport shuttle. It is also easy to get an inexpensive shuttle to the glacier from Waterfront Park, downtown near the cruise ships.

The front desk staff was very accommodating when my ferry schedule changed to an early morning arrival. After a phone call, they did not charge me for the first of three nights which I had originally booked.

The Capitol Room diner offered the same excellent service I had had before on a Holland America Line cruise ship. (Westmark is a Holland America Company). The macadamia encrusted halibut and the T-bone were delightful in the historic Gold Room. The rooms were pretty standard, but the furnishings were new. I appreciated the original black and white fixtures in the bathroom. If you request two queens or doubles you will get a larger room. (I noticed that on the fire map.) We had a smaller room with two twins which was recently refurbished and furnished. It was fine for two nights.

Caveats would include the fact that the steam heated room was too hot. I raised the windows to cope with this problem. Perhaps it had to something to do with the recent cold snap. The hotel has concealed steam heat that seems to work well in our room, even though we had turned it off. There are also no stamps or mail drop at the front desk: a very basic requirement for a full service hotel, which they failed to meet. With it's central location you don't need transportation while downtown, but you will have to pay extra for transportation to the airport and ferry terminal. Taxis are not cheap in Juneau. This is often included with other Juneau hotels.

It is very convenient, and I would stay here again. I found the Baranof cheaper than either The Prospector or the Goldbelt when we were there. As long as that remains true, it would probably still be my first choice for a full service hotel in the downtown area, but only if have a car on my next visit.

It is near the airport, in the Mendenhall valley neighborhood where much of the real Juneau lives. Free shuttle service downtown, to the airport, and the ferry terminal make it great for a quick stay without a rental car. The stained wood exterior lined with blooming fuchsia plants, hides the fact that when you request a king bed you get a nicely done two-room suite with a kitchenette. (There are only four on each floor.) Just minutes from the glacier, 15-20 minutes to downtown and 15 minutes to the ferry terminal.

The expansive continental breakfast, the free shuttle service, on-site laundry, free newspapers, free internet access, and genuinely helpful front desk staff does make it the best value for the money.

The Gold Room at the Baranof Hotel has to be the most beautiful dining room in Juneau. This dark paneled room is crowned with a huge art deco glass ceiling. Large oil paintings depict important events in Alaskan history. Much of the fate of Alaska itself has been debated within the Gold Room. This has been a favorite haunt for state politicians since it's opening in 1939. I overheard a local official describing an overnight visit to the White House. It sounded like an interesting, but very rigidly scheduled experience.

The cuisine is called contemporary Alaskan. I call it gourmet quality surf and turf with a few pasta dishes. It fits in the fine dining category. The macadamia encrusted halibut was very good, and the large t-bone was also quite tasty. We had two drinks each from the bar, two entrees, and two salads. The bill totaled $84

Favorite Dish
Macadamia encrusted halibut, a sizable piece of fresh halibut coated in macadamia and herbs and pan fried in olive oil. Simple but very tasty.

The restaurant is in a weathered gray building directly across the road from the beautiful Auke Bay Boat Harbor. The decor is that of a 1970's diner with thin, wood grained paneling, and a "Touch of Thai" on the walls. It's the kind of place where the pantry spills out into the cash register area.

People don't come to Chans Thai Kitchen for the nice view or the ambience. The food keeps them coming. Nicely spiced. Costing only $9.95, the red curry with halibut was the daily special. This spicy coconut milk concoction was served with fresh halibut and vegetables, and a large side of jasmine rice. I was stuffed! One of the best Thai seafood concoctions I have ever tasted. I am a connoisseur of Thai food, and I will eat here on my next visit to Juneau.

I cannot say enough about this 8.5 hour day trip from Juneau to Tracy Arm and Sawyer Glacier. We traveled at 21 knots in a ship that took the usually rough seas near Taku inlet very well with stops for wildlife viewing in route. We saw no less than 6 humpback whales, up close and personal, in Stephens Passage. Their breaching and tail waving was like a ballet. I felt like a giddy 10 year old. An entire colony of sea lions was lounging on the rocks north of Taku inlet. Literally of hundreds of seals were lounging on the ice bergs near South Sawyer glacier. At least five or six mountain goats were spotted on the cliffs above the glacier. Small dolphins also swam near the boat at North Sawyer Glacier.

As for Tracy Arm and the glaciers. Imagine Yosimite but much larger. Instead of a crowded road and river, you travel on placid turquoise colored waters. The 3000 foot sheer cliffs surrounded us as we passed even other glaciers such as the Sum Dum Glacier. The ship nosed into a couple waterfalls where some were brave enough to even get their heads wet in "tough man" contest. We not only saw the actively calving South Sawyer Glacier as close as could be possibly safe, but we also got a close up view of the smaller North Sawyer Glacier. The big ships that tour the area don't get nearly as close and rarely visit North Sawyer. Words cannot describe the sounds these monsters make as they calve into the water. It is also possibly the best value of all the day trips leaving Juneau. You will never get bored on this 8.5 hour daytrip. Thanks to Steve Weber and Adventure Bound! This is the best use I have ever made of $105.

The Mendenhall Glacier is almost everyone's most lasting memory of Juneau. It's a 12-mile-long by 1 1/2-mile wide, 1500-square-mile expanse that will leave you breathless - bring your camera and lots of film (dress warm too). It challenges your sense of scale and perspective. Watch the hikers on the trail to Nugget Falls from Glacier Point Overlook. They appear as mere specks on the horizon when they reach the waterfall. The interpretive talks offered by the Tongass National Forest rangers at Glacier Point are also very informative. The elevator-accessed national forest visitor center charges a $2 admission fee. Watch the film and tour the impressive exhibits and viewing room. Glacier Point Overlook, the best viewing area, is free.

Transportation Tips:

It is just a short 7-mile drive along State Route 7 and the Mendenhall Loop Road to the glacier. If you are staying near the airport, it is only a 4-mile cab ride, unless you can talk your hotel into a courtesy shuttle ride.

If you need transportation from a downtown-area hotel to the glacier, the best bet is probably Mendenhall Glacier Transport's shuttle, which costs only $10 for basic transportation. Take the bus right from the cruise ship dock downtown.

Mendenhall Glacier Transport

For $20, Mendenhall Glacier Transport's 2.5-hour Juneau's Best Tour offers a tour of downtown and many scenic outlying areas. (These may be off-season prices; expect $5 more in the summer.) This is the best bet if you have a short time in Juneau.

Capitol City Transit

The Capitol Transit's city buses will also take you within 2 miles of the glacier on the Lemon Creek Mendenhall Valley Route. You will have to get off at Mendenhall Valley/Boulevard and walk the roadside trail for 2 miles to the glacier. The cost is $2.90.

Get a Juneau walking-tour map, available from the Davis Log Cabin at 134 Third St., the airport, the information kiosks at Marine Park, Auke Bay ferry terminal, hotels, and Centennial Hall Information Center. You can also print a version of the guide from the link above. The walk will take at least 2 hours with short stops. I won't attempt to be that comprehensive here. If you are not able to walk comfortably, jump on a red trolley for a tour with unlimited rides and stops all day. ($20)

Here are a few highlights of the tour. The State Capitol offers free 20-minute guided tours. The State Office Building (locals call it the S.O.B.), eighth floor, has a spectacular view of Juneau and free pipe-organ concerts on Fridays. St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church is tiny compared to St. Michaels in Sitka, but it is totally original. Attend a service if you can stand upright for 1-2 hours. The Alaska State Museum is known as one of the best museums in the state, although I will admit that we didn't find time to visit ($5). The House of Wickersham is open for Russian tea and cakes, as well as storytelling by Bill Childers (if you are into that sort of thing). Don't miss the waterfront. The top floor of the library is the best place to view the giant cruise ships.

If you are in need of refreshment and enjoy local color, try the Alaskan Hotel and Bar, Arctic Bar, or a more quiet stop at the Baranof Hotel Bar (all of which are located on North Franklin Street). The hillside neighborhoods are also quite scenic. Most of the city's streets end at long stairways.

You can extend your walk substantially by walking north of the city. Follow Basin Street through an upper neighborhood to the old gold mines and the Last Chance Mining Museum ($3). If the weather is good, your time may be better spent extending your hike up on Mt. Roberts from the tramway ($20).