San Antonio: The Fiesta City

We arrived in San Antonio on Thursday, got checked into the hotel, met up with some family, and went for a great Tex-Mex dinner at Chuy's. After we got back to our hotel, we walked over to Durty Nellie's on the river to sing along at the piano bar.

Friday was our first full day to explore the city. Starting out at 9am, the first stop on our walking tour was at the famous Alamo. Arriving this early on a weekday is a benefit, because this major attraction was not very crowded. We wandered around downtown, visiting the Menger Hotel, the Spanish Governor's Palace, a few churches, and other historical sites. We shopped our way through the shops near the Alamo and La Villita. Friday evening was the reason we were in town, my sister and brother-in-law's 40th surprise birthday party.

Saturday we spent some time at the Japanese Tea Garden and Market Square before heading out for dinner and some drinks on the River Walk.

Quick Tips:

Do: Make reservations if you plan to eat dinner at the River Walk on a weekend evening.

Don't: Forget to check out the music scene. Piano bars are very big and The Landing is a great place to hear some jazz. San Antonio is America's capital for Tejano music, a unique blend of Mexican and German sounds.

Do: Dress appropriately. Texas can be hot during the day no matter what time of year it is, and the evenings can get cool.

Don't: Expect everything to be at the River Walk. Since I heard so much about it, I assumed all the great bars, food, and shopping would be there. While there are many restaurants and bars, there aren't any little shops. Plan on visiting Market Square or La Villita for shopping.

Do: Pop into Rivercenter. Yes, it's a mall, but it also has a movie theater, a comedy club, and several restaurants and bars on the lower level.

Suggested local dish to try: Fajitas or enchiladas. Anything Tex-Mex or authentic Mexican is good in San Antonio. For the daring, try some leguna (tongue), which I think tastes like pot roast.

Local tourist office: Across the street from the Alamo.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you stay in downtown San Antonio anyplace near the river, you can walk everywhere. Things may look far away on the map, but the blocks are short.

If you do not feel like walking, San Antonio has a great trolley-car system. The trolleys are colored to match their routes (red, green, etc.). Maps are well placed on the streets throughout the city and in several guides and brochures. The best thing is the price. For only .50, you can cruise down Market Street in a snap.

If you stay further away from the river, you can drive downtown and park at one of the many lots. Parking seems to be between and .50. Prices may vary depending on which lot and how long you stay.

There are also river cruises you can take, which is a great way to see the River Walk. Sightseeing tours depart throughout the day. Several restaurants offer dinners on the boats as well.

For more information see my other journal, San Antonio: Historic Sites.

We chose this smaller, classic San Antonio hotel as an alternative to the other high-rise hotels along the River Walk. The Fairmount has 37 rooms and none are alike. A funky history, a courtyard that could be in Paris, and a tiny bar with a smell of oven-fired pizzas from the adjacent restaurant, Polo's, is part of its charm. Its location is not right on the River Walk, but just across the street from the entrance at La Villita and within walking distance from the downtown historical buildings, the Alamo, and even the King William Historic District.

The Fairmont began life in 1906 as a railroad hotel. In 1985, the 3.2 million-pound structure was lifted onto rollers, trussed with bands of steel and moved five blocks to its present location. Framed newspaper articles on the lower level document the 6-day project, recorded in the Guinness Book of Records as the heaviest building ever moved.

Our room was more of a suite than a standard room. Imagine one large room being divided into three areas. In the front we had a nice-sized living room, with a couch, television with cable, two sitting chairs, a coffee table and some side tables with lamps. The second section contained the hallway on the left and the bathroom on the right. On the wall of the hallway was a long shelf with our coffee-maker and other amenities on it, leaving enough space for us to put our camera and items we brought into the room. The bathroom was large with a bathtub shower, sink, makeup mirror, and a toilet in a separate little room with a door and a telephone in it. The third section was our bedroom, which had very high ceilings, two full size beds, a window looking onto the city, a television in an armoire with drawers, a full size closet, and a desk with a CD/radio and clock on it. There was also a chair and ottoman in the bedroom.

Rooms are decorated in colors of yellows and greens. Modern conveniences are available such as high-speed internet access and cordless telephones. There is also a digital scale and CD-player/radio combination in the room. The digital cable channel selection is impressive, and a wide variety of channels are available.

This small hotel has no pool, but it offers a quaint courtyard, which is shaded by the building, where you can sit and enjoy a drink or read the paper. There is a mandatory $17 valet charge per night if you arrive with a car. This includes in and out privileges all day long. The valet was super-quick and we never had to wait long for our car. The front desk was very friendly and helpful. Between the front desk employees and the valet, they always made sure we knew where we were going when we left the hotel and were happy to help with any suggestions.

San Antonio's first neighborhood is now a thriving arts and crafts community. La Villita, Spanish for "little town," settled over the centuries by Spanish, Germans, and, in the '30s and '40s, a community of artists, was once the site of an Indian village. A number of the buildings have been continuously occupied for more than 200 years.

This little village on the river was restored by a joint effort of the city and the San Antonio Conservation Society. Located near the River Walk on the south side of the San Antonio River, it is laid out like a Mexican village, populated with boutiques, craft shops, eateries, art galleries, workshops, theatres, artists and a few original adobe buildings.

Shopping here can be a pricey experience so it's usually cheaper to just observe the artists at work, or come later in the day to soak up the atmosphere. Featuring upscale stores and shops to find Native American jewelry, woven items, rugs, blankets and accessories, this place is a shoppers dream.

Since it was right across the street from the Fairmount Hotel, at which we stayed, we were able to see La Villita at various times of the day. In the morning it is quiet, which is a great contrast to all the activity on a Saturday night. There was a stage set up with bands playing and food booths selling tacos and other snacks for an Accordion Festival, which was in town. There was also a wedding in one of the historic homes. In fact we caught a beautiful sight, because the doors to the church were open and the large stained-glass window at the back of the church was lit up from the floodlights behind the church, lighting up the stage for the band. The bride and her guests spilled out of the house where the reception was held and wandered through the streets of the village.

On the east end of the village is a small glassblower's shop and museum. There is a $.10 donation, but once you enter, you can see the owner spinning the glass rods heated by a torch and making unique glass creations. They were nothing all that outstanding, but it was an interesting experience, and I did really like these colorful little guitars he had for sale. Chamade and the Village Gallery were two of the shops we really enjoyed visiting.

As you walk through the village, you'll see several different 19th century homes such as Florian House, Gray-Guilbeau House, and Cos House. The latter is where Mexican General Perfecto de Cos signed the Articles of Capitulation after San Antonio was recaptured from Mexican Federal Troops.

El Mercaro, or Market Square, is the largest Mexican marketplace outside of Mexico. You should plan a visit here if you like to hunt for bargains, shop for souvenirs, or appreciate the colors and sounds of Mexican traditions. Expect to find Mexican restaurants, arts and crafts, shops, bakeries, etc. Items for sale are either in stores or set up in carts.

Market Square is the best cultural shopping experience in downtown San Antonio. Located west of the River Walk, it is a good fifteen minute walk to reach Market Square. On your journey above ground you will pass the San Antonio government buildings, San Fernando Cathedral and the Spanish Govenor''s Palace. If you choose to drive, parking is $5.00. You can also take a streetcar ride from downtown for $0.50.

Stalls in the indoor El Mercado sell everything from Mexican blankets and cowboy hats to high-quality crafts from the interior of Mexico. Shops sell more than just Mexican items. Here you can find goods from aroudn the world. You will find things like Chinese porcelain jars and hand-carved religious figurines, but most people come here for the Mexican crafts. You won''t miss the colorful skeleton figurines for the Day of the Dead. You''ll also find plenty of salsas and hot sauces to bring home. One store had an entire wall of hot sauces on display. I could have spent hours looking through to pick the perfect one.

Also, look for a variety of colorfully decorated pottery items such as crosses, bowls, plates, and jars. There is a large selection of hammered silver mirrors as well. Most of these items are very affordably priced, but unfortunately, they seem too difficult to take home in the suitcase, so you should be prepared to ship your items home. You will also find leather goods, Mexican apparel, glassware, hand-crafted furniture, jewelry and more.

You can enjoy some great Mexican food at either Mi Tierra or La Margarita. Both serve up traditional Mexican and Tex-Mex items and are popular spots for lunch and dinner. Mi Tierra is open 24 hours, so you can stop in to get some huevos rancheros, chile rellenos, chalupas, or other meal at any time. The mariachi band plays into the wee hours of the morning. Their bakery offers Mexican pastries that I have never seen before, along with standard cookies and cakes.

This is the perfect store for the epicurean. Located near The Alamo, between to The Menger Hotel and Rivercenter Mall, this little shop invites the visitor to sample some wines and other items. In the front of the shop are several household items, such as plates and dinnerware. They also sell ceramic tortilla holders.

Their wine cellar features a wide-variety of Texas wine. All visitors are invited to one sample for free. You can purchase additional samples as well at three tastes for $1.00. We tried one and unfortunately did not like it, and, since we visited very early in the morning, we did not sample any additional wines.

Their merchandise revolves around items made in Texas. Hot sauces and salsa from Texas are featured. Made from a wide variety of peppers like jalapenos and habaneros, these items are usually quite spicy. The salsas are very unique and made with a variety of incredients like fruit, cactus, champagne and corn. The fruit salsas, such as peach or raspberry, are my favorites since they use a sweet and heat combination.

A wind variety of barbecue sauces are available with cute names such as 5-Star, Beer-B-Q, Chick''n Lick''n, and Killer Hot Barbecue Sauce. Gift Sets include salsas, dips, hot sauces, and other items shaped like the state of Texas or a cowboy boot.

We are mustard and jelly people. Everywhere we travel we always look to purchase some unique mustard and a homemade jelly. Blum Street Cellars offered us the widest variety in town. We tried a sweet honey and jalapeno mustard, which is great for dipping pretzels into or jazzing up a sandwich. We also bought some habanero jelly, which I mix with cream cheese and spread on crackers or celery.

An endless amount of other items are available, such as seasoning and spices, chili mix, jalapeno cornbread, Japaleanuts (spicy roasted peanuts), Texas Pralines, Armadillo Droppings (dark chewie pralines), and tortilla soup mix. There are a few dried chili pepper items, such as a bunch of peppers and pepper wreaths. Books on salsas, hot sauces, and chiles are also available.

Chamade is a wonderful jeweler which offers a wide range of jewelry items. Several different artists where showcased in various places through the shop. Fine jewelry such as 14, 18, or 22 karat gold bracelets, chains, and rings, and south sea pearl strands can be found with a platinum selection, estate jewelry and Texas charms.

Their Native American collection is impressive and they sell ethnic offerings from the Hopi, Navajo and Zuni reservations. Chamade is a member of the Indian Arts & Crafts Association, ensuring their merchandise is authentic. In addition to jewelry, other Native American items are available such as handcrafted concho belts, bolo ties, squash blossoms, and shell necklaces. Brightly colored turquoise, coral, and amber pieces are highlighted. Some unique fetish carvings are also for sale.

My favorite type of jewelry is designer pieces and Chamade offers plenty. Decorative stones, radiant gems, and designer sterling silver allow the shopper to pick out a unique item to make a personal statement with their jewelry selections. Some of the silver pieces with inlaid turquoise are intricately made and very delicate in appearance.

In the front of the store we found some unusual jewelry boxes. They were handmade out of different types of wood and were almost like puzzle boxes of some sort. You had to take out certain pieces of wood to get the lid open. On the inside, the boxes are designed well and have several little compartments to hold smaller items.

According to the store brochure, Chamade (pronounced "sha-mod") is a French term used to convey happiness, excitement, and the heart-pounding rush of a first time love. Even if you are not shopping for jewelry, it is worth stopping in to appreciate the artwork of the pieces.

The Village Gallery is the downtown gallery for McQueenry Pottery, which is based in McQueeny, Texas. The style used results in pieces of three or four different colors. The colors and dye used are strong and clear instead of "watered" like I have seen them in other stores.

All of the pottery is hand made and is lead free, safe to use in the microware, oven and dishwasher. Pieces are created from their own clay and glazes with the majority of the materials coming from the local area. The glazes are bright and alive and they emphasize functional stoneware and porcelain pottery pieces. Some earthenware pieces are also being produced.

Standard pottery pieces such as dishes, bowls, goblets, mugs, and platters are for sale, but so are several other unique items one does not commonly associate with pottery. Cooking items, such as apple bakers, baking dishes in various shapes, loaf pans, and casserole dishes can be found in a variety of sizes and colors. There is a good variety of decorative items like candlestick holders, lamps, luminaries, soap dishes, vases, card holders, coasters and a great deal more. They also have creative items, such as letters and numbers, which can be hung on the side of a house or a building.

One thing to note is that each of the pieces is quite heavy. I mention this because it helps understand their quality. When I picked up the plates, I felt confident that they could withstand everyday use and not break easily. In fact, I was a bit concerned since they were so heavy. I guess I''m a bit of a wimp, because I was thinking that I''d have to use two hands to bring each plate to the table once it is filled up with food. Keep this in mind if you plan on purchasing any items because they may be a heavy addition to your suitcase. However, I have no doubt you will be happy with your purchase once you get it home.

We longed after the platters. There are a few different color platters that seemed prevalent and used to make an entire series of dishes with a similar color design. As we walked from room to room, we kept seeing platters we liked better than in the previous room. Up in the front of the store are the smaller items. Make sure to walk into the back room and upstairs to see all the wonderful pieces.

The concept of the Japanese Tea Garden is a very good one, but unfortunately I can not recommend it to anyone. This is because the day we visited, there was no water in the ponds, no water in the waterfall or in the fountains. The plants seemed a bit dried up as well.

The Japanese Tea Garden is not within walking distance from downtown. It is in Brackenridge Park which is near the San Antonio Zoo and a few museums. The story of the Japanese Tea Garden in San Antonio is an interesting one and is provided on a large plaque outside of the garden entrance. Built from an old rock quarry, the Japanese Tea Garden concept grew from what was originally just a lily pond.

Prison labor was used to build the garden’s bridges, walkways and Japanese pagoda (a large stone "house" that overlooks the garden). The people who lived in San Antonio and the city itself like the idea so much, the citizens and city donated plants and flowers. The city also contributed lighting for the garden.

In 1926 the city of San Antonio invited a local artist, of Japanese-American blood, to move into the garden. He and his family opened the Bamboo Room which served lunches and tea. His family continued to operate the Bamboo Room even after his death until 1942. During that year, the city evicted the family due to anti-Japanese feelings of American citizens after the bombing of Pearl Harbor during World War II. The prejudice ran so deep in San Antonio that they even re-named the garden to the Chinese Sunken Garden. One of the garden entrances still has this name written above the door. In 1984, things were finally made right and the garden was named back to its original name, the Japanese Tea Garden.

We only stayed about twenty minutes and during that time we wandered a bit around through the walkways and over the bridges. The grounds were kept up pretty well with minimal graffiti which is positive since it is a public park with no admittance fee. The most creative graffiti we saw were some names scratched into the long leaves of a type of palm plant.