Hong Kong Highlights

Hong Kong is a kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and smells and I was entranced from the minute we landed.

One morning we passed a group of people in Kowloon Park practising tai ch'i. Their movements were in complete harmony with one other and it was quite a contrast to watch this ancient art while outside the park, hordes of people and cars hurried past.

Just a short trip across the harbor on the Star Ferry, Central District is full of modern skyscrapers but only a few blocks away are symbols of old Hong Kong, such as Man Mo Temple, built in the mid 1800s. Also in Central, I visited shops selling everything from clothes and jewellery to medicinal herbs and treatments - dried snake skins, animal bladders and teas meant to cure almost any ache or pain.

The city has almost as many restaurants as shops and eating in Hong Kong is a major event. From coconut buns at the Park Bakery to a dim sum feast at a nameless hole in the wall to a vegetarian restaurant near Chatham Road, we had no difficulty whatsoever finding great food.

Quick Tips:

The people are a big part of what makes Hong Kong so fascinating, and time spent at a park or street market observing local customs can be very rewarding.

Best Way To Get Around:

Traffic is pretty hectic, so we took a cab or walked whenever possible. Central is across the harbour from Kowloon and easily accessible via the Star Ferry.

Double decker trams are also a fun way to get around, especially if you sit on the top deck.

This moderately priced hotel is set a few blocks off the main shopping area in Kowloon, so is fairly quiet (noise wise) at night but there are lots of restaurants and small shops across the street so you don't have to go far to eat or shop. If you've really come to Hong Kong to eat at McDonalds, that is about 1 block away too. The large rooms are modern, bright & spacious and the bathrooms offer the standard selection of toiletries. There is a large breakfast buffet that serves both Chinese and Western food. There are a couple of restaurants and a lounge in the hotel and the bakery is just next door. The train station is within walking distance but I'd take a cab if you have any luggage.

Located at the corner of Hollywood Rd. and Ladder St., this Taoist Temple is one of Hong Kong's oldest. It is dedicated to Man (the god of literature) and Mo (the god of war)- quite a combination! The inside is filled with burning incense - both in burners throughout and large coils that hang from the ceiling. There is a drum and large bell that is sounded when a prayer is about to be offered. There are containers that hold lots of numbered fortune sticks. You shake the container until "your" fortune stick falls out. The prophesy is written in Chinese but you can buy a book at the Temple that has the English translation. The Temple is located in a busy area and is surrounded by shops. On the way back to the ferry terminal, you will pass a street market that sells all kinds of clothing and household items and you can get some good buys.

Although this is a standard means of commuting between Central and Kowloon it is a not to be missed adventure for visitors. These green and white boats make the 5 min. trip across the harbour on a continual basis. The cost is less than $1.00 and allows for great views of the city skyline. I like sitting on the main deck at water level but you can sit up top as well. There are food stands at the terminal selling everything from noodles to sliced beef testicles, battered and deep fried in oil (my husband said it was good but I just couldn't bring myself to try it). Outside the terminal on Central you can have your picture taken beside an old rickshaw. Within walking distance of the Kowloon terminal is The Space Museum and The Peninsula Hotel, a Hong Kong tradition for afternoon tea.

I loved the hustle and bustle and constant energy of Hong Kong but wanted to explore further afield so I boarded a train and headed north to Sha Tin. The train was old and rather grungy but my first class carriage was comfortable and almost empty. I was the only westerner and the only woman in the car and at each stop, the conductor would come in, smile and nod. He spoke no English and I no Chinese, but smiles are understood in all languages.

When I got off the train, there were a number of signs for the monastery and it took about 15 minutes to reach by foot. It's perched on a hillside and looks out over Sha Tin. It's a very pretty and peaceful site BUT there are lots of stairs to climb to reach the top. One travel guide said there were over 400 and I would agree, although I didn't have the breath left to count them.

Although it is called The Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery, there are now over 13,000 of the clay statues of Buddha because people keep adding to them. Although similar in size and shape, a closer look reveals differences in poses. They are reverently stacked on shelves filling the walls of the temple.

In front of the Temple are large colorful statues of some of Buddha's followers as well as a 9 story pagoda filled with more statues.

There weren't a lot of other visitors about and it almost felt like I had the place to myself. The Temple has a number of terraces and from them you can see across the valley to the Amah Rock, a famous landmark. Legend says this rock was once a woman who climbed the hill to watch and wait for her husband's return. He never returned and the gods eventually took pity on her and turned her to stone as a reward for her patience.

Behind the main Temple, a smaller one houses the body of Yeut Kai, the monk who founded the monastery. The whole area feels very peaceful and serene and is a perfect place to relax and unwind.

The monastery is part of an organized day trip that you can book through your hotel or a travel agency but I enjoyed doing it on my own since I had more time to wander around.

Trains run regularly to Sha Tin from the Kowloon station and my first class, return ticket was under $10.00. A word of caution - the restrooms at stations outside can be very basic - just a hole in the floor - so be prepared.

Sha Tin is quite a large city with many hotels. As well as the monastery, it is also well known for its horse racing track, one of the largest in the country.