Lovely Lisbon

A side trip to Belem is also a must, to see the Manueline architecture of the monastery of Jeronimos, the Tower of Belem (from which the king waved to his ships leaving on voyages of discovery), and the Monument to the Discoveries.

Learn just one word in Portuguese -- obrigado if you're a man, obrigada if you're a woman (they mean thanks) -- and everyone will smile at you for making the effort.

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Calouste Gulbenkian, whom I (and apparently many others) had never heard of, is called 'Mr. 5 percent.' He negotiated deals between oil-producing states and big oil companies in the beginning of the 20th century, and got 5% of everything. Turned out to be a good deal for him, and he used much of his money to acquire beautiful things. Late in life, he moved to Portugal and left his art to a foundation he created, in exchange for a promise to build a museum to house it.

The museum is never crowded, though the cafeteria always is, and it remains my favorite place in all of Lisbon. It is not, however, typically Portuguese, nor is its art; it is cosmopolitan, and could be anywhere in the world. It is a great place to spend an afternoon, with lots of benches for resting and simply relaxing and enjoying the beautiful and peaceful surroundings.

Pena is at the top of a mountain , and is a long, vigorous walk from the train station. Most people take a taxi, and I would recommend this highly unless you are in shape for a two-hour hike up a switchbacked road.

The palace at the top of this road is very interesting for its varied architecture--sort of a blend of Moorish, Gothic, Manueline, and Bavarian. It is considered one of the finest examples of Portuguese Romantic architecture.

Built in the mid-19th century, under the direction of the King Consort Dom Fernando II (of Saxe Coburg-Gotha, hence the Bavarian influence), the palace is still furnished and is quite interesting to visit. The views are also breathtaking.

On a recent visit to the monastery, in addition to enjoying the serenity of the cathedral and the astonishing size (and incredible tile pictures) of the refectory where the monks ate their meals, I was delighted to discover that there was a concert being conducted in the cloister. What a joy to sit comfortably and listen to the choir serenade us all, for free. (Well, no additional charge, anyway.)

The monastery is across the street and a park from the Monument to the Discoveries, and within easy walking distance of the Tower of Belem. It is easy to reach Belem to visit the monastery, the Tower of Belem, and the Monument to the Discoveries. It is a short and inexpensive cab ride from the riverside in downtown Lisbon, and there are also frequent trams. To return, there is a cab stand directly across the street form the monastery.

It is fun to stand on the terraces of the tower, and look up the river and out to see and imagine the caravelas setting sail. (A caravela is a peculiarly Portuguese boat, rigged with triangular sails, designed for exploring along the coast, rather than crossing oceans.)

Be sure to also look away from the river, straight up the hill, to see the small chapel where the King and the Captain attended Mass before proceeding to the ship and the tower for the departure.

It is easy to reach Belem to visit the tower, the Monument to the Discoveries, and the Jeronimos Monastery. It is a short and inexpensive cab ride from the riverside in downtown Lisbon, and there are also frequent trams. To return, there is a cab stand directly across the street form the monastery.

There are apparently no tours of the rope factory, and in fact I do not know what the building is used for today, but it is well worth watching for it on your way to Belem, because it is quite a marvel.