Lovely Lisbon

Every time I go to Lisbon I go to the Gulbenkian Foundation, where there are two museums: the Gulbenkian Museum, which contains Calouste Gulbenkian's personal collection and the Modern Art Museum. Plus, landscaping so beautiful that on a weekend you often see wedding parties taking photographs on the grounds.

A side trip to Belem is also a must, to see the Manueline architecture of the monastery of Jeronimos, the Tower of Belem (from which the king waved to his ships leaving on voyages of discovery), and the Monument to the Discoveries.

Learn just one word in Portuguese -- obrigado if you're a man, obrigada if you're a woman (they mean thanks) -- and everyone will smile at you for making the effort.

Quick Tips:

Eat the seafood--it's great!

Best Way To Get Around:

Walk--you see so much more, and sleep so well! Public transportation is also safe, easy, and inexpensive.

This restaurant at the top of the Hotel Altis, offers a beautiful, panoramic view of the city. The food is good, and the wine steward is great! He always recommends a nice local wine to go with the meal, and I have never been disappointed (or appalled at the cost!) with his choices. This is not an inexpensive restaurant, but is worth one dinner for its view.

This dive below street level at the corner of Avenida da Liberdade near the Sao Jorge movie theatres, has great, fresh seafood. Almost everyone in the place is speaking Portuguese (though the waiters all speak English), so it seems to be a neighborhood spot. I live for their Gambas con alhinho, which is shrimp with garlic (scampi, in other words). That and a half bottle of wine, and I walk out a happy woman. Noisy, crowded, and inexpensive.

This museum was custom-built to house the personal collection of Calouste Gulbenkian. It is a lovely building set in lovely grounds, and the collection ranges from ancient Greek coins and busts, through great art treasures purchased from the Hermitage after the Russian revolution, to a room full of Lalique furniture and jewelry. It is small enough not to overwhelm, with such a wide-ranging collection that there is something to please everyone (and a lot to please most!)

Calouste Gulbenkian, whom I (and apparently many others) had never heard of, is called 'Mr. 5 percent.' He negotiated deals between oil-producing states and big oil companies in the beginning of the 20th century, and got 5% of everything. Turned out to be a good deal for him, and he used much of his money to acquire beautiful things. Late in life, he moved to Portugal and left his art to a foundation he created, in exchange for a promise to build a museum to house it.

The museum is never crowded, though the cafeteria always is, and it remains my favorite place in all of Lisbon. It is not, however, typically Portuguese, nor is its art; it is cosmopolitan, and could be anywhere in the world. It is a great place to spend an afternoon, with lots of benches for resting and simply relaxing and enjoying the beautiful and peaceful surroundings.

Sintra is just an hour away from Lisbon by train (leave from the Rossio station), and is where the kings of Portugal had their summer homes. It is cooler and greener than Lisbon, and has several attractions (three palaces or castles). My favorite of these is the Palacio da Pena.

Pena is at the top of a mountain , and is a long, vigorous walk from the train station. Most people take a taxi, and I would recommend this highly unless you are in shape for a two-hour hike up a switchbacked road.

The palace at the top of this road is very interesting for its varied architecture--sort of a blend of Moorish, Gothic, Manueline, and Bavarian. It is considered one of the finest examples of Portuguese Romantic architecture.

Built in the mid-19th century, under the direction of the King Consort Dom Fernando II (of Saxe Coburg-Gotha, hence the Bavarian influence), the palace is still furnished and is quite interesting to visit. The views are also breathtaking.

The Jeronimos Monastery is one of the finest examples of Manueline architecture. It is lovely and fanciful--and the carving surrounding every window is unique. Each craftsman was allowed the freedom to customize his window. But you need to look closely to see that! The overall impression is of the carved rope motif so common in Manueline architecture.

On a recent visit to the monastery, in addition to enjoying the serenity of the cathedral and the astonishing size (and incredible tile pictures) of the refectory where the monks ate their meals, I was delighted to discover that there was a concert being conducted in the cloister. What a joy to sit comfortably and listen to the choir serenade us all, for free. (Well, no additional charge, anyway.)

The monastery is across the street and a park from the Monument to the Discoveries, and within easy walking distance of the Tower of Belem. It is easy to reach Belem to visit the monastery, the Tower of Belem, and the Monument to the Discoveries. It is a short and inexpensive cab ride from the riverside in downtown Lisbon, and there are also frequent trams. To return, there is a cab stand directly across the street form the monastery.

The kings of Portugal waved goodbye to the ships they sent off on the voyages of discovery from the Tower of Belem. Set partially in the river itself (it used to be further out, reached by boat, but now one can walk), the tower is a little fortress, including dungeons and the like.

It is fun to stand on the terraces of the tower, and look up the river and out to see and imagine the caravelas setting sail. (A caravela is a peculiarly Portuguese boat, rigged with triangular sails, designed for exploring along the coast, rather than crossing oceans.)

Be sure to also look away from the river, straight up the hill, to see the small chapel where the King and the Captain attended Mass before proceeding to the ship and the tower for the departure.

It is easy to reach Belem to visit the tower, the Monument to the Discoveries, and the Jeronimos Monastery. It is a short and inexpensive cab ride from the riverside in downtown Lisbon, and there are also frequent trams. To return, there is a cab stand directly across the street form the monastery.

The Monument to the Discoveries is one of those must-see sorts of things; it is shaped like the prow of a ship with various famous discoverers along either side. At the center front is Prince Henry the Navigator. The monument is especially pretty in the evenings, when it is lit.

It is easy to reach Belem to visit this monument, the Tower of Belem, and the Jeronimos Monastery. It is a short and inexpensive cab ride from the riverside in downtown Lisbon, and there are also frequent trams. To return, there is a cab stand directly across the street form the monastery.

If you go to Belem from Lisbon, whether you drive, take a cab, or the tram, you will pass the old rope factory on your way. The road to Belem runs along the River Tagus, with renovated warehouses on your left (many now converted to restaurants and nightclubs). On your right, shortly before reaching Belem, you will pass a LONG (block is long!) bright yellow building on your right. This is the old rope factory. Since a splice is a weak point in a rope, and since rope was so critical to the economy of Portugal during the voyages of discovery, they needed the ability to manufacture very long ropes without splices. Hence, this building, which may very well be the longest building anywhere!

There are apparently no tours of the rope factory, and in fact I do not know what the building is used for today, but it is well worth watching for it on your way to Belem, because it is quite a marvel.