Americans who LOVE Toronto!

Toronto is ever-changing and offers distinct neighborhoods to explore. Cabbagetown, The Annex, Clubland, Yorkville, Chinatown--each has a flavor and rhythm all their own. Shopping is a dream here with the largest marquee stores to funky chic. The art galleries (Royal Ontario Museum, Art Gallery of Ontario) are worth a trip alone, and the Toronto Zoo is great for the kids. Visit the famous CN Tower (1,815 ft) or take in a game at the SkyDome or Air Canada Centre - There is never a shortage of new experiences--live it up!

Quick Tips:

Being from the US, Toronto is an amazing way to experience a world-class, cosmopolitan city while taking advantage of the favorable exchange rate. While not as good as it used to be, at US.76 per Canadian dollar, you can make your vacation budget stretch. Be aware, though, that many items are more expensive in Canada and are marked up accordingly.

To make sure you make the most of the exchange, consider staying outside the city center to find the lower room rates. You can also try priceline.com to name your own price. We've been successful with this strategy!

Best Way To Get Around:

DRIVING- Proceed at your own risk! Driving is possible but not recommended. Toronto can be a confusing maze of one-way streets, and parking is very difficult and expensive. If you do find a public lot, have cash and coin available to pay the auto-attendant kiosks. When you are driving, take care as Torontonians speed, weave lanes and tailgate as a general rule. You have been warned!

PUBLIC TRANSPORT - When getting around Metro and Downtown, try taking the TTC - aboveground trams and subway below. For CD.25 one-way, this is a deal! The trains and trams are clean, swift and easy to master. Stations are well spaced, but be aware that the tram stops can be in the middle of busy thoroughfares, so take care crossing to the sidewalks.

ON FOOT - Walking around Toronto brings the city alive. During warmer months walking is a pleasure, but when the fall and winter comes to the Great White North, take advantage of the downtown PATH. This complex of tunnels connecting major buildings and venues in the heart of downtown can save you from the face-numbing winds that whistle through the streets.

The Hotel Le Germain opened in February 2003 on a secluded backstreet in the heart of Toronto's Clubland.

The whole hotel says style, sleek, and sexy. The rooms are done in dark wood, glass and metal, and the beds are made up in the softest, pillowiest duvets imaginable! There is also their signature - a voyeuristic glass wall between the shower and the bedroom that is perfect for getting "in the mood" although there is a shade for the demure.

When you walk in your room, there is soft music playing on nothing less than a BOSE wave radio and mood lighting set to say "Be dazzled"!

Almost everything in your room is for sale. Look in the leather box on the desk, and you'll find a price list for almost everything in the room.

Storage room is ample with plenty of mirrors, two large drawers and two closets for hanging your party clothes.

Amenties in room include a mini-bar, bottled water, wine glasses, corkscrew, icebucket (refilled daily), Toronto guides, iron and board and in-room safe. There is also a fabulous flat-panel Zenith TV and reading lights next to the bed. There is a lounge chair, divan (with cozy throw blanket) and desk with phone, lamp, pen, pad and sticky notes.

The bathroom is a work of art with sliding wood doors, and separate enclosed toilet. The shower is open with both rainfall shower head and hand-held nozzle. The Kohler sink is in silver set in green glass - very stylish. It is also stocked with Egyptian cotton towels and robes. As a final touch, there are complimentary Aveda shampoo, conditoner and body wash in rosemary/mint scent. And in case you forget your room number, it is engraved on your bathroom glasses.

What are the down sides? As of November 2003, their restaurant and lounge ("luce" and "yellow") had yet to open, so you are forced to go out for dinner and drinks. Fortunately, there are many options within a short walk. Also, the area can be very noisy, especially on weekends when the bars and clubs close. Thoughtfully, the hotel has supplied bed-side earplugs.

Despite not having a restaurant yet, breakfast IS included, with a nice selection of breads, cheeses, fruit, cereal, hardboiled eggs and fab coffee with seating around two rectangular central bars. Bring the newspaper hanging on your door in the morning and you have the first hour of your day planned for you.

In the aftermath of the SARS scare, the Le Germain was quite the deal for US$144 per night. Their average rates have now risen to be more in the US$180 - 200, and exchange rates aren't what they used to be.

Nevertheless, want to feel Euro, sexy and trendy? Then this is a great home base in TO! See their website at Hotel Le Germain Toronto

The Madison Manor Boutique Hotel was a welcome surprise!

I enjoy staying in something other than the normal big-box hotels, and a quick search on the internet brought up Madison Manor.

Near the corner from Bloor and Spadina, Madison Manor is a charming old brick Victorian home that has 23 hotel rooms. The flavor of the old home has been preserved, with original woodwork and older furnishings in the common areas and hallways. These touches carry over to the rooms, but they are not the frou-frou Victorian rooms typical of some B&Bs. The rooms updated with all the latest amenities such as gas fireplaces (in some rooms), updated modern baths, in room internet access via dial-up or DSL, cable TV and air conditioning.

I reserved the room their website called the best for "people watching", Room 408. This spacious room on the top floor has a small balcony, accessible through sliding doors off the bedroom. It overlooks the next-door patio of the Madison Avenue Pub (same owners as the Hotel) and that place hops in the summer. People watching indeed - but who is watching whom? I guess it depends on how daring you are! It also has a fireplace that works with the flick of a switch on the side of the chimney. Nothing like having it 95 degrees outside, then cranking the air-conditioning inside just so you can have the fire flickering into the evening!

Room amenities also include iron and board, in-room safe, coffee maker and hairdryers.

Continental breakfast is included in the price of the room, but frankly, we've always been so tired from our daily activities that we end up sleeping through it! The beds are very comfortable, and even though there is some street and pub noise, you'll find yourself quickly drifting off.

Note that when you check in, the office is actually in the Pub next door. While you are there, see if parking vouchers are available for slots either at the Manor or in the lot just behind. With parking at a premium, it's worth a few extra dollars. It doesn't guarantee a spot though if the pub next door is busy and patrons park in the wrong spots, or the lot may be full. Additionally, the TTC station is also behind the hotel and is really the best way to get around the town.

And speaking of getting around, there is no elevator at the Manor, so if wheelchair accessibility or accommodation for a mobility disability is important, this may not be the best fit.

Should you stay here? If you want to see a new part of town, absolutely! You're within walking distance of the Royal Ontario Museum, Bata Shoe Museum and the toney Yorkville area. But frankly, head down Bloor to experience a neighborhood that shows how Torontonians REALLY live!

Break out of the big-box rut, and try a boutique. Madison Manor is a great place to start.

The Hilton Toronto, a 20-plus-story hotel right in the heart of downtown Toronto, is stylish but showing a little wear around the edges.

Built in the 1960s, the hotel recently underwent a hip refurb, but the rooms and appointments still have a boxy feel that newer hotels are striving to avoid.

This trip was last-minute, and the Hilton was not my first choice, but they picked up my Priceline.com bid for a four-star hotel with a bid of $75/night, which turned out to be a bargain at about half the normal room rate.

We took the scenic glass elevator up to our 20th-floor room - dark wood doors and funky carpets greet you when you walk to the room. Inside, a standard bathroom with king-size bed, desk, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer and iron/board await. There is a mini-bar with a variety of offerings with a bottle of wine, corkscrew and various munchies sitting out and available - for a price, of course.

The view we had was almost perfect, with the CN Tower, Skydome and Lake Ontario shore visible from that side of the hotel, but partially obscured by an office building across the way.

The bed was serviceable, but average, with no pad and a bit on the hard side.

Importantly, the hotel does have a reasonably priced parking garage (CN$12/overnight), a great convenience in a crowded city.

The chic lobby (by hip Toronto designers II by IV) was bustling and features a gift shop, a coffee bar, the Barrister Bar (lined with books and done in wood and leather) for a nightcap, and the Tundra Restaurant, specializing in fine dining, featuring game meats and an exclusively Canadian wine list.

Overall, an average big box hotel, nicely dressed up for a Euro-type city. If possible, look for a deal on the room rate and you'll be happy with your stay!

My wife is a huge fan of the show "24", or rather, she is a huge fan of Kiefer Sutherland. She would be Mrs. Sutherland if possible, but she has me instead, and happily so!

We had tickets to see the band Stereolab at The Phoenix, so rather than stay at one of our usual haunts, I took a page from Mr. Sutherland's book and booked a room at The Windsor Arms Hotel . Located on a quiet street off Bloor, you are near the heart of the chichi shopping district, but in a quiet "I want to be alone" oasis.

Built in 1927 as a paragon of luxury and service, it closed in 1991 was restored and reopened with a old-world feel but with all mod cons. With a Neo-Gothic original exterior featuring original stained glass windows, this boutique hotel has 28 rooms ranging from 500 to 1,500 square feet.

The service is understated and European - you feel important here - and indeed, many of the movie world's best and brightest make this their home during the Toronto Film Festival. The dark carved wood of the lobby bespeaks money. But what about the rooms you ask?

Our room was spacious - a large living room with blond wood furniture led to an intimate bedroom with a king size bed and plush, crisp white 400 count sheets and a bathroom featuring a bath with jacuzzi, glass enclosed shower and double vanity sinks. The flow was magnificent and was worthy of a home-from-home for a homesick movie star. The terry robes, the premium bath products, the high-end magazines – this is a place for a couple to come and leave the kids (and cares) at home.

OK - that's all well and good, but what is the coolest thing in the room? Yes - the sound system. Check out the built-in cabinets flanking the bed and you will find extra storage and a full stereo rack system that channels sound throughout the rooms, bathroom included. It - like a movie - provides a soundtrack for your stay.

You go in feeling hip, and you come out feeling Hollywood! Need more? Check out Bar 22 off the lobby, or the Courtyard Cafe for an unforgettable evening.

One suggestion - when making a reservation ask for a room not above the bar. When you try to go to sleep the band may keep you awake while the hipsters continue to party long after we pretenders try to drift off.

If you have a few extra pennies, this place is deserving of a splurge. Toronto awaits…

This restaurant was an unexpected surprise.

My wife and I were at a function in Toronto and decided to stay overnight the day we drove up. We stayed at the Toronto Hilton, and Tundra is the restaurant just off the lobby. We arrived back at the hotel at about 8:30pm, starving, and not looking to go far for a meal. At that time, business at Tundra was winding down and we easily secured a table, but during prime-time reservations are recommended.

The dining area is thinly partitioned with wood walls from the lobby (which can be loud and echo-y) and is towered over by cone pillars of lights, which adds a funky groove.

Tables are small, dark and intimate but somewhat close-set, with white linens (adorned with a small rock at each setting) and comfortable one-armed chairs.

The food is uniquely Canadian, featuring game meats and an exclusively Canadian wine list - a nice touch that can force a wine lover a little outside the comfort envelope.

Being adventurous diners, we looked forward to this change of pace. As it was late, we did not have an appetizer, but a basket of breads was brought to the table with a carrot wasabi puree spread to start. These are breads well worth blowing your low-carb diet on for a day!

On the menu, what caught our eyes and taste buds were a bison steak in a maple/bourbon reduction sauce with smashed fingerlings and autumn vegetables, and a red deer loin with a corn and squash bread pudding and wild berry and chestnut compote. Presentation on the white china was artful, but not fussy. Not your standard fare, and both were very nicely done.

The wine we had chosen, a Niagara peninsula meritage, was not in stock after we had ordered it, so they courteously upgraded us to another meritage of greater value but at the price of the chosen bottle. The sommelier came over to explain personally, which we thought was an unnecessary, but professional, gesture.

As mentioned, being off the lobby and just partitioned, it tended to be a bit loud, but in Toronto, it is all about the scene, so if you can get past that, you'll enjoy yourself. The service was prompt and professional, if not a tad chatty.

If you are looking for a different tack for dinner and are open to a little native fare, Tundra can be a very rewarding experience!

See their website at Tundra at the Toronto Hilton

On a weekend night in downtown Toronto, one usually needs reservations for dinner. On our last visit, we decided to wing it, and at place after place there was no availability before 9:30pm. Until we got to Bistro 333.

Sometimes there are reasons why a restaurant isn't full - trust your instincts.

A long wooden bar surrounded by smaller stand-up tables is at the front, with dining tables in back. Despite the fact that the place was empty, we were taken to the worst table available - a two top next to the coat rack, restroom, and kitchen door. Strike 1.

After a few minutes, the waiter came over to take drink orders. This went well enough - two glasses of a local Niagara peninsula merlot - and was followed closely by a basket of bread and butter covered by a napkin. The bread was ordinary, cold French bread with butter in individual tubs. Not fancy, but serviceable enough.

Over the next few minutes, we looked over the menu. It is a typical bistro-type menu with a mix of appetizers, sandwiches, pastas, entrees, and specials. There was nothing of note, but we quickly settled on a few choices. We ordered the spring rolls with plum sauce for an appetizer, followed by entrees of chicken stuffed with goat cheese, spinach, and sun-dried tomatoes, and a Norwegian salmon with a fresh vegetable salsa and red pepper risotto. Both entrees came with sauteed vegetables.

The spring rolls were crisp, but unfortunately, a bit gummy inside and served with a bottled plum sauce. OK, but no better thant what you might find at your local grocery or wholesaler. As my wife took the final roll off the platter, the waiter whisked by, snatching the plate with the dipping sauce from the table. Good thing she didn't really want any more of it. But she didn't much want the rest of the roll either. Strike 2.

While waiting for the entrees, I was absently playing with the bread basket, I happened to flip the napkin under the bread up, and there was ... a squeezed-out lemon wedge. I pointed this out to the waiter and without apology he whisked it away and returned with another, but no matter. Strike 3. Big time.

The entrees, fortunately, were quite good - well flavored, nicely cooked, artfully presented, and hot. However, at some point, the quality of the food cannot overcome the shortcomings, and such was the case here. We ate, paid the bill (CN$70), and left.

It is unfortunate that someone puts time and effort into the establishment of a restaurant, outfits it, staffs it, and makes it look "right," only to have it torpedoed by the details. Bistro 333 could be quite good, but they need to work on the details to make it in this crowded strip of eateries.

While the main courses were generally good, there is nothing here that I could say recommends Bistro 333.

Grand Piano Pastries is a newly opened restaurant in the new Distillery District just east of downtown Toronto.

This small lunch spot was just putting out its shingle during our visit on 11/29/03, and it looks to be a promising start.

Housed in a long, thin room in Building 59 of the old Goderham and Wort Distillery, Grand Piano Pastries strikes a mood upon entering. Aged, exposed brick, massive supporting beams, steel lally columns, and a mix of antiques and new chic furnishings beckons patrons to enter, settle in and enjoy the atmosphere. Smooth jazz and blues completes the carefully constructed feel.

At the counter, the cases are dominated by beautifully presented tortes, mousses, tiramisu, tartlets and the like. A tall mirror at one end of the room announces the day's offerings. In addition, they also offer four or five different sandwiches for a light lunch.

My wife and I opted for a sandwich of roast beef, cheddar and tomato, with a small salad of meslun greens with Caesar dressing. The sandwich was on whole wheat and grilled panini-style, which made for a satisfying toasted crunch, and thankfully, it was not overstuffed. Many confuse volume of food with value, but this was just enough for a light bite with two sharing. Regrettably, it came with ordinary crinkle-cut chips, which seemed to be unimaginative when compared with the Vogues and Vanity Fairs scattered about the place.

They will apparently have music in the evenings based on the namesake piano to the back of the restaurant.

The coffee here was very good, although at CN$1.75 with a CN$.75 refill charge, it's a bit steep. The total tab for the meal, coffee and a soft drink was CN$10.00.

Regardless, I would certainly make a return trip to try the desserts and the ambience again!

Palavrion Movenpick is a version of the Swiss franchise Movenpick.

Outfitted like a Provence patio and outdoor market, Palavrion is a friendly and inviting way to start your day, assuming you can figure out the system, of course.

Walking in, you see uniformed staff behind stations designed to look like a marketplace - here a cart of muffins and baked goods, there an omelette station, and various places to pick up other comestibles like bagels, fruit, drinks, coffee and the like. While this may sound like a cafeteria, it is more like what cafeterias aspire to be - visually interesting, culinarily dynamic, and generally light-years from prepackaged, wrapped sandwiches.

Unfortunately, it seems that they assume you know what you are supposed to do in this lively set-up. Trays are in one place, plastic silverware in another, and no clear idea of when or how you are to pay. It would be helpful if the staff, when greeting, could ask if you had been there before, and, if not, explain the process.

Once figured out, the system is quite pleasing, and the food is of high quality. Freshly made omelettes (one veggie, one ham and cheese) are made with about two eggs and are filling. The Danish (we had an apple cheese) was moist and flaky. The coffee was excellent, although disappointingly served in styrofoam cups.

If you are visiting Toronto and are in subway or walking distance of a Movenpick, I can recommend a visit, as it is a notch up from standard hotel breakfast fare.

The Second City Toronto is Ontario's outpost of the venerable Second City comedy troupe.

Second City Toronto has given rise to some of the best comedians of the past generation -- need a list? Ever heard of Mike Myers? John Candy? Martin Short? Dan Aykroyd? Gilda Radner? Eugene Levy? Rick Moranis? Ryan Stiles? Colin Mochrie? Or the television show SCTV for that matter? You have this club to thank!

When in Toronto, this is a fun way for adults to spend an evening. Although the comedy sketches are very funny, this is not TV and there are no censors so leave the kids under 18 at home. The shows always have witty, punny names (like Arma-Get-It-On! and Psychedelicatessen), which almost never have any bearing on the show itself. At it's best, the sketches are topical and biting slice-of-life observation, and the improv section is red hot. At it's worst, they are half-baked and go on far longer that they need to. And of course, they riff on Canadian life and politics, which can leave Americans scratching their heads. Regardless, the troupes (which change personnel yearly) are always revved up and giving it their all. The Saturday late show is great because they do a free show afterward of improv and sketches in development. If you can stay awake, take advantage! Sundays, their equally funning touring troupe is in residence for the evening.

The Theatre itself is a beautiful two story brick affair, with the gift shop and ticket booth downstairs, and the bar and entrance to the mainstage upstairs. Lining the stairs are pictures of troupes past, and you'll have fun spotting comedians past in the alumni mural at the top of the stairs.

Drink prices at the bar are a little high as you'd expect at club venue, but not exorbitant. Grab your favorite quaff while you wait, but know that there is table service for food and drink in the theatre itself.

The theatre itself is a tiered semicircle of about 10 rows around the stage. Most are just fine seats, except at the extreme edges. If you go as a couple, expect that you will be sitting with another couple around the small, cramped tables. This is not a place for comfort, put you'll all settle in once the laughs start coming!

They do not have an online ticketing system. You can request tickets via e-mail or at 1-800-263-4485.

Go on! Go buy your tickets, and get ready for a wild, funny night!

The Distillery District opened in 2003 on the eastern side of Downtown Toronto in the buildings formerly housing the Gooderham and Worts Distillery, and quickly became the spot to be in summertime Toronto.

The complex of monumental stone and brick buildings were constructed between about 1857 and 1900 and are among the finest examples of Victorian Industrial Design in existence. While the site has been used for many film and TV projects, recently the District opened as a venue for independent artists and designer shops.

Among the studios you will find offerings like handmade furniture, clothing, jewelry, paper products, calligraphic artists, painters and sculptors. Be aware that becuase some of these shops are so small, many do not accept credit cards or checks, so bring cash. Have fun wandering from space to space, and enjoy the opportunity to engage the artists themselves about their work!

Several retail shops are scattered about. One offers funky, Euro designed housewares, another high-end audio/visual home theatre equipment. There is also a coffee shop, pastry shop and several large restaurants -- The Boiler House, Pure Spirits and Perigree (which I hope to visit in the near future . . . ).

Along the brick-lined walkways in warm weather, the restaurants have large outdoor patio eating and drinking areas, many featuring live music!

Parking can be tight on the streets, but on-site parking can be had for CN$5, a steal for the parking aggravation you'll be saving yourself.

Did I mention that other than parking, admission is free? That's a very good deal! Let's hope this is one new Toronto attraction that sticks around for a while -- it's a great addition to the scene!

Oh the choices! Outside the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) we're already considering the options for dining - as Zero Mostel said in "The Producers" - 'al fresco'. But as we've only just finished breakfast, it can wait.

What really brings us to the ROM is tickets to see their featured exhibit Art Deco 1910-1939 curated by London's Victoria & Albert Museum on display through 1/4/2003.

Art Deco - it eats the future and excretes the past. It is prelude and prologue simultaneously in a way that only Dada and Cubism ever achieved. But it is more feminine despite it's Machine Age pedigree, and it is perhaps that feminism that makes it so accessible.

This show's brilliance is its melding of influences and derivatives - here a 17th century Japanese panel, there a Japanese inspired 1920's laquered screen. This type of relationship occurs over and over again, and it works masterfully. Egyptian papyrus is played off Cartier's King Tut cosmetic cases. Greek amphorae are contrasted with Swedish tea urns. The effect is powerful when we see how much we reach to the past for inspiration.

Highlights include posters designed by Cassandre, a flowing red jacket designed by Schiaparelli, an RCA Bluebird floor radio and the architects model of Rockefeller Center. The show is whimsical, visceral and delightful overall.

Time for lunch yet? No. We press on.

Look! Something a little less cerebral - so we thought....Beatrix Potter and her little friend, Peter Rabbit! Geared for children but more for those who read the books as children, this show follows Potter's life not only as an author, but also as an observer and documenter of nature, qualities that obviously fed into her published stories for children.

50+ of Beatrix Potter's drawings line the walls from bat skeletons to Peter Rabbit in Mr. McGregors's garden - enchanting for adults, but the children seemed far more riveted by the animated films running continuously. I understand the addition, but it seemed an unnecessary intrusion. However I certainly was not the audience they were shooting for.

Hungry ... we're very hungry...

Frankly, the Druxy's Deli in the basement was a poor excuse for lunch (unless salt & vinegar chips and Diet Pepsi is your idea of lunch) so we head outside to the hot dogs we've been dreaming of since we went in. Sure, they're not really part of the ROM, but it's like going to the Met in NY - it's just not a complete visit until you sit on the steps with a dog and a pop to reflect on your visit.

In this case, it was a great visit. And a great hot dog. More mustard please!

For those who have never done it, the prospect of driving to a foreign country can be a daunting one. Tolls, customs, declarations - where do you start?

Being that the US/Canadian border is the longest undefended one in the world, you'd think that cross-border trips would be harder, especially in a post-9/11/2001 world. It's not so much difficult as slow.

I typically am crossing from the Niagara area, and there are currently three bridges in operation - The Peace Bridge at Buffalo, The Rainbow Bridge at Niagara Falls and the Lewiston/Queenston Bridge at Lewiston, NY. Of the three, the Rainbow Bridge is the quickest, as it does not allow truck traffic. AM 610 from Canada provides periodic updates on traffic flow at the border, or you can call (716) 285-6322 for latest bridge conditions.

GOING TO CANADA

What to expect? As of June 1, 2009, you will need a US Passport, US Passport card or (for New York State) an "enhanced" Drivers' License. Until then, when going to Canada, make sure you have identification ready, preferably two forms, at least one with a picture. Commonly, these are driver's license, passport, and/or birth certificate, and you may be asked to present these as you drive up to the customs booth.

When you drive up to the booth, stop at the appointed place in line until the car ahead has cleared the booth. The driver should roll down their window and not speak until addressed by the customs officer. He/she is checking your license plate to insure the car is not stolen or otherwise being sought. Turn off your radio, and all occupants of the car should remove sunglasses or anything else obstructing their faces.

The officer will then ask for your ID and ask a number of questions which can vary widely. You may hear them ask for your: citizenship, place of birth, destination, reason for travel, duration of travel, or whether you are bringing in any alcohol, tobacco or firearms or anything not for your personal use. They may only ask the driver to respond, or all occupants for the first few questions. Answer the questions quickly, truthfully and succinctly and you will be fine. Do not attempt to be humorous.

If for any reason the officer asks to look in the car, comply immediately - do not ask why, just follow their instructions.

This questioning generally takes only a minute or less, but as the customs officers are safeguarding their country's border, they make take longer or shorter times depending on their comfort level with the vehicle and its occupants.

Once through, you will go on to the toll booth. Tolls are usually in the US$3 - $5 range.

And that's it for getting to Canada. Not so bad, eh?

RETURNING TO THE US

Expect a wait when coming back to the US. The rules for dealing with Customs Officers outlined above still hold, but they may scrutinize more. On weekends and during the afternoon on weekdays, waits of 30 minutes to 1 hour to get across at Niagara are not unknown.

In addition to having your ID ready, also have the receipts for anything you purchased while in Canada. Check with US Customs regarding the limits of goods you can bring back to the US duty-free, but my rule of thumb is $200/day/person. This does not include alcohol and tobacco, which are governed by other rules. The officers will ask you what you purchased and may ask to see the receipts. Have the goods easily accessible if possible and do not attempt to bring any meats, citrus, or live plants across the border or they will be confiscated. The Peace Bridge Customs site is a good place to learn about US Customs allowances.

Lastly, you do not have to pay toll returning to the US. Lucky you!

December in Toronto can be brutal -- winds howl, snow starts (falling horizontally!) at the drop of a hat, and pedestrians caught outside in the downtown area scatter for the nearest hole in the ground. Luckily, that hole -- 16 miles of it -- is called the PATH Toronto's Underground Walkway.

Ostensibly linking many of the different transit stations in the area, the PATH snakes its way under office buildings and tourist attractions including The Air Canada Centre, SkyDome, CN Tower and Hockey Hall of Fame. However, while almost 100,000 commuters per day can be found using the corridors, there aren't may tourists to be found.

This is a shame since the PATH is a wonder, and underground mall stretching for blocks and blocks in every direction. Safe, sheltered and clean, far from being just a way to get from here to there, there are hundreds of retail outlets, from pharmacies and travel agencies to bookstores, restaurants and groceries. Regardless of the weather, downtown denizens can go to work, do all their shopping, return home and nary get a foot wet!

If you venture into the PATH, make sure to take a map. While there are maps at critical junctures and directional markers on the ceilings, it is easy to take a wrong turn if you aren't exactly sure of your location!