Timbuktu - The mysterious city on the edge of the Sahara

Probably one of the best things for a lot of people about going to Timbuktu is the satisfaction upon arrival of having reached a place long synonymous with inaccessibility. That may be somewhat short lived, so it is fortunate that the city does offer a few more tangible highlights.

Many of the attractions are located on the twisting sandy streets of the old quarter. At times it seems as though the district has not changed since the days of the intrepid past visitors whose former abodes still stand in the area today. Meanwhile, the Djingareiber Mosque is perhaps the most notable place of worship in Mali that is readily open to everyone.

Quick Tips:

Even though the Tuareg uprising has been over for a few years now, the desert region to the north of Timbuktu is still somewhat unstable. That means that registering at the local police station is advisable, which is also an appealing thing to do from a tourist's point of view, because upon payment of a small fee, an official passport stamp featuring the famous place name is available.

Additionally, I would personally advise against the kind of rushed itinerary followed by many tourists, who often spend a little over a day on a flying visit to the area. This is because whilst such a course of action allows enough time to see the small range of obvious sights, it is only after a longer stay that the true character becomes apparent.

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Timbuktu is not a particularly large place, and the main things to see and facilities are all within walking distance of one another. This is useful, as there are few other options for getting around the city, although using a minibus or taxi to get to or from the local airport and nearest harbour is possible, and indeed necessary.

Meanwhile, taking an excursion into the Sahara is a popular activity. Camel rides are of course a good way to do this, and such a trip is easy to arrange with any of the many prospective local guides. However, another alternative is to go out to the desert on foot, as the distance involved is relatively short.

There is not exactly a large selection of accommodation options in Timbuktu, which is probably quite unsurprising. Indeed, it might feel a little disappointing if the situation proved to be any other way, given the nature of the place! Unfortunately, some of the few potentially decent establishments are either relatively expensive, poorly located, or popular with hustlers. However, I was lucky enough to stay in the charming Hôtel la Colombe, which in my opinion, is the best choice in the city, mainly because none of the aforementioned problems apply.

Physically, the small hotel is a rather ordinary example of the region's modern day architecture, whilst inside the décor and furnishings are based on local styles in a simple and by no means plush manner. Nevertheless, the average sized rooms are cosy, and each has its own bathroom, a television, and a quite old, but fairly effective, air-conditioning unit.

Although there is a lack of high-end facilities such as a pool, the restaurant and bar on the premises are rather good. On offer are very palatable set breakfasts, lunches, and dinners, whilst the usual selection of drinks is constantly available. However, it is the setting on the first floor roof terrace that is the real draw, because the scenes of everyday life occurring below on Rue Askia Mohammed, the main thoroughfare through the centre, rarely fail to be engaging. Finally, one other attractive feature is that the members of staff are genuinely friendly and always do their utmost to make the guests feel welcome.

Without any doubt, many of Mali's most attractive and interesting edifices are mosques constructed in the unique Sahel style. Unfortunately, the majority of such buildings in the country are frustratingly not accessible by non-Muslims. Therefore, it was a great feeling to find out that visiting one of Timbuktu's historic old places of worship was possible, and I did not miss the somewhat unusual opportunity.

The Djingareiber Mosque may not compete in terms of aesthetics or level of preservation with the more famous structure in Djenné, but it certainly alludes to the former glories of the city. In 1325, the Andalusian architect and poet Es Sahéli received the instructions to commence building from the incredibly rich Malian emperor Kankan Moussa, who had just returned from his renowned pilgrimage to Mecca full of religious fervour. Although at first that may not seem too impressively ancient, the discovery that mud is the primary material used in the construction should change that perception.

Externally, solid buttresses rise from the surrounding sandy streets before giving way to the somewhat irregular walls that curve slightly inwards towards the turrets, behind which conical minarets rise. Directly inside the main entrance there is a large enclosed area that is dark, cool, and punctuated by nine rows of square columns, which is where around 2,000 men congregate to worship every Friday. There is little in the way of elaborate decoration, except for the wooden doors ornamented with metal, which are fine examples of the local style. The net effect is plain and unpretentious, which perhaps is the reason that there is an atmosphere that impressively manages to exude both great age and intimacy at the same time. Meanwhile, going up onto the flat roof, where René Caillié is said to have written some of his notes, is also worthwhile, as from the elevated location there are superb views over the city to the desert.

The cost of entering the mosque is around a couple of thousand francs, and it is reputedly sometimes easier to gain admission when accompanied by a guide. Remembering to dress conservatively and to remove shoes before going in is important, and because of the latter, I would recommend visiting in the morning before the sand in the open-air sections becomes uncomfortably hot.

The days when Timbuktu was a fabulous and virtually impossible to reach city are now gone. Nevertheless, in my opinion, it is still a very intriguing place, and spending time exploring it revealed several attractions that are worthy of attention.

Perhaps the single greatest pleasure of spending time in the area is wandering around, and getting lost in, the old town's veritable maze of narrow streets and alleys that feature traditional mud-brick architecture and distinctive sights such as the communal bread ovens. In addition to being the most picturesque and atmospheric quarter, it is also home to the majority of the main attractions.

The district's three venerable mosques are a large part of the reason that Timbuktu is on UNESCO's World Heritage List, even though none are in particularly good repair or as beautiful as some counterparts elsewhere. The Djingareiber is the most antiquated and only one that is generally accessible by tourists. The relatively nearby Sidi Yéhia dates from the start of the 15th century and takes its name from one of the most important local saints. Aside from a fine decorative main door, it has very few points of interest, and although the best preserved of the trio, is probably also the least appealing. More attractive is the Sankoré, the newest at only 500 years old, which was apparently built to resemble the Ka'bah in Mecca, and was once among the leading Islamic seats of learning anywhere in the world.

Also scattered around the historic core are the former houses of European explorers who succeeded in getting to the mysterious city during the 1800s. Each is marked with a wall plaque, and most are now simply residences, although Rene Caillié’s erstwhile residence is ramshackle, whilst that of Heinrich Barth contains a small amount of pertinent exhibits.

Meanwhile, there is a small ethnographic museum in the same vicinity, which exhibits various antique artefacts, including jewellery and furniture. Perhaps more interesting is the collection of colonial era black and white photographs, and also the Well of Bouctou in the courtyard, which is said to be where the name of the city derives from.

Elsewhere, there are several markets, two of which cater to locals, selling foodstuffs, cloths, utensils and so on. However, the relatively new covered artisans' establishment is primarily for tourists, with souvenirs such as swords and silverwork of variable quality on offer. It is also possible to watch craftsmen at work at the Diem Tendé workshop, which has an impressive reputation, and has purportedly been in continuous operation for very many generations.

Another recent addition to the landscape is the Flame of Peace, which is located on the boundary between the desert and the settlement. Commemorating the end of the Tuareg uprising in the mid 1990s, a mock fire sits atop its concrete arches, symbolising the burning of decommissioned weapons, some of which are set in the pedestal.

The Sahara has always been crucial to life in Timbuktu. The past wealth and almost fantastic reputation of the city was built around the unloading of salt caravans ready for transport down the Niger, which made it a vital point on the trading network that linked the Mediterranean with equatorial Africa. Nowadays, the sands tend to bring more problems than riches, but do continue to provide an exotic backdrop for the almost uniquely alluring destination. Meanwhile, the traditional nomadic life of the Tuareg still has a huge cultural influence. Therefore, it seemed to me that in order to better understand the city, venturing out into the beautiful desert for the first ever time was essential.

Fortunately, doing so is not actually difficult, because the sandy streets soon give way to dunes. In fact, taking a walk out is very pleasant, particularly because finding a lovely, calming feeling of solitude amidst attractive scenery is really fairly easy. It is probably best to go later in the day, when the intense heat has subsided and the visibility of the settled area's lights make finding the way back simple.

However, a much better way to experience the terrain is on the back of a camel, even if, as is sometimes said, the area is not as spectacular as parts of North Africa. There are generally guides in and around the Hôtel le Bouctou, with whom arranging journeys of various distances and durations is possible. It is possible to take a short ride to the so-called Gateway to the Desert, or spend a longer period out. Excursions that stretch into the evening are popular, not only due to the cooler temperatures, but also because there are quite differing visions of beauty during the day, at sunset and by moonlight. Overnight stays can be included, and usually food and tourist orientated entertainments, such as acted sword fights, traditional music and dance are part of the deal. To give a rough idea of cost, the latter kind of package should be somewhere in the region of 25,000 francs. Caution is definitely required when negotiating, as the initially requested fee will probably be too high, whilst one traveller that I met insisted on a low price, and much to her disappointment, got what she paid for, which was very little indeed!

Meanwhile, another thing to be wary of when making plans is the danger that the itinerary will revolve around a visit to a camp that is seemingly home only to determined souvenir sellers. However, there are some cameleers that have an excellent reputation, and they are well worth seeking out in order to avoid any problems, particularly Jiddou ag Almoustapha, who is commonly nicknamed Sandy.

Personally, I was fortunate enough to organise a trip with the friendly and informative Tuareg called Mohammed ag Ahmed, which involved riding out to his small camp, spending the night with the family and returning in the morning. At first, the combination of the camel's rocking gait and the hard saddle made me feel terribly uncomfortable and unsteady. For a while, my hands held the reins tightly, and it was a struggle to make the most of the available views, although a stop at a particularly picturesque spot was scheduled and very much enjoyed. Eventually, after night had fallen, we reached our destination, and once the animals had been unloaded, we settled down to the first of many cups of tea. Spending time sitting with my host and his kin around the fire and enjoying a simple but enjoyable meal proved to be a wonderfully relaxing experience. Although less obviously exciting than the alternative staged activities found elsewhere, it provided a much more insightful glimpse into the basic but dignified way of life of the Blue Men of the Desert, as they are known. Having slept under the stars, we returned to the city in the morning following breakfast, via a larger encampment. Surprisingly, by the time that the return leg was underway, I had relaxed, loosening the grip and going more with the motion, and consequently was much more at ease.