In Love with the Adriatic: Dubrovnik

Top Highlights: There is scarcely a more beautiful city in the world than Dubrovnik. Enjoy a stroll down the Placa and take in the marble streets and buildings. The beauty of Dubrovnik lies in its buildings and walls, rather than its museums. Be sure to leave plenty of time to see the gates and walk the length of the city walls - some of the most intact in all of Europe. Along the way, pause to see the Minceta tower and the Fort of St. John. The old port and new port are definitely worth some time. Old Dubrovnik is quite small and can easily be managed in a day on foot, but you will find it more worthwhile to spread your trip out over a few days.

Museums and Art: For those interested in art, the Fransiscan and Dominican Monasteries offer both local and foreign artists. The Dubrovnik Museum provides a glimpse of the city's history. I greatly enjoyed viewing the interior of the Sephardic Synagogue, which is one of the oldest in Europe.

People Watching: In the evening time all year round, the cafes along the Placa are filled with people. Do like the locals do and linger over a cup of coffee as you watch the sun go down!

Quick Tips:

The Off-Season: If traveling in the off season, be prepared for a number of the bigger tourist-oriented restaurants and shops to be closed. Not to fear, you will still find plenty of places to eat and shop. You will also find that the locals will question you as to why you have come in winter!

If arriving by bus:Be prepared for any number of hotel and taxi touts to swarm around you offering you everything from a private tour to accommodation. It is possible to walk from the bus station to the old city, but is a bit of a hike. I recommend catching the public buses that run alongside the bus station down to the Pile Gate. Immediately in front of the bus station is a newspaper kiosk that sells tickets.

Proper Clothing: Even on a warm winter day, the city walls are windy. Make sure to bring a proper jacket and layer your clothing!

Internet Access: Internet cafes are springing up all over Dubrovnik. The staff speaks English and is very helpful. Prices run about -2 for a 30-minute session. This makes it very easy to keep in touch.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking: There is no need for anything but walking in the Old City and the immediate surrounding area. In fact, it's your only option! Dubrovnik is a pedestrian's dream. No trams or taxis to dodge and the very steep streets mean few bicycles as well. However, the steep streets can make getting from point A to point B a bit of a hike. If you have trouble with stairs, you may find Dubrovnik a challenge.

Getting Here: The best way in the off-season to get into and out of Dubrovnik is by bus. Buses run regularly to Split and Sarajevo. In summer, there are also regular ferries to Split and further afield. In the off-season, the ferries run a limited schedule.

Given the shortage of hotels in the old town, many people choose to stay in private accommodations. These offer an excellent location for an excellent price. Many options can be arranged online or through a travel agency. I arranged mine through Atlas Travel and was placed in a home five mintues walk from the Old Town for less than $30 a night.

The Bilicic house is quite old and is located on one of the many winding stone paths that lead up from the Pile Gate. Entering by a iron gate, you come across a lovely garden and then--on the left--the entryway to the home. Please note that there are no facilities for handicapped guests and those who aren't up to a brisk climb might find other housing preferrable. The friendly family speaks English and was helpful in getting my bearings set. I was provided with a key to my room and the front. I had no problems coming and going early or late and was not in any way inconvienenced by the presence of other guests.

The house itself is a joy! It has a lovely terrace which overlooks the Roman port and the old city. Since that I was lucky enough to hit a warm spell in February, it was very nice to sit on the terrace and enjoy a beer as the sun set. The room I stayed in had a nice garden window and was well appointed and large. There was a small TV which seemed to only get Croatian TV, no cable. The bathroom was located just down the hall and was very modern. Hot water was readily available and towels were provided. Breakfast could be arranged, but I chose to make use of the wonderful cafe by the Pile Gate. It was a quick downhill walk every morning.

I recommend the Bilicic rooms or other private accommodations for those who are looking for a budget place to hang their head. When negotiating for a room be aware that many of the cheaper apartments are located in the suburb of Lapad. While this is very convienent to the Port, it is a long walk or moderate bus ride to the Old City. Unless you are looking for rock bottom prices, you'll do better to stay closer to town. Otherwise, I can freely recommend this method of lodging. You will be well situated to enjoy the town and get a taste of how Croatians live. Plus, you may even get to make a friendship with your host family!

Cafe Orlando is the perfect place to catch a quick bite for breakfast before heading into the old city. You should be able to get away for well under $5 a person. Situated directly in front of the Pile Gate and near the Roman Port, the cafe offers pastries, coffee, and drinks at a very reasonable price. Look for the yellow awning just before you enter the Pile Gate on the right side of the road. A display case features that morning's offerings on the left. The croissants are to die for and the tarts are very well made. At lunch time, the cafe becomes more of a deli with sandwich and snack options available.

There are a few tables outside where you can sit, but by and large this is a take out cafe. There are benches overlooking the bay directly behind the building that make a lovely spot for a picnic. You'll find that the staff speak a bit of English and German and are quite friendly. Cafe Orlando is also situated next to Planet Dubrovnik, an Internet cafe that offers terminals by the hour.

A walk along the city walls will surely be the highlight of any trip to Dubrovnik. As one of the foremost walled cities in Europe, the views to be had are amazing. At points, it is almost as if you are suspended over unbelievably azure waters. At other times, it's as if you have stepped back in time 500 years and entered city life as it must have been in the Middle Ages. Several tour companies run (pricey) guided walks along the walls, but the intrepid traveler will go it alone for the entrance fee of only a few dollars.

The easiest way to access the city walls is from the stairs at the beginning of the Placa, near the Pile Gate. The stairs are steep and the walk itself is vigorous. This is not to be recommended for those who aren't up to stairs or a good brisk walk. At points, the wind can be treacherous as well. Make sure to keep a good grip on the ledge! The walls themselves range from a few meters to 6 meters thick.

As you walk along the 11th century walls, you will be lead out over the Adriatic, from where you can see the Minceta fortress, the Bokar fortress, and the Lovrijenac fortress. Along the walls, you will peer down onto the rooftops of the city and peek into the apartments and business of the old town. Feel free to stop off at a cafe for a spot of tea as you make your way around the city.

The walk along the city walls should not be rushed. Plan on a few hours, at a minimum, to take in the sights. There is a maritime museum and aquarium accessible from the walls as well. I prefer to do the walk early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as the sun is not so brutal at that point. Even in winter, the sun beating down will heat you up. If you make the walk alone, be sure to bring along a guidebook or map. There aren't clear designations on the walk to clue you into the name or significance of the various buildings, forts, etc.

Lovrijenac is the fortress that stands over the old pier outside the old city of Dubrovnik. Long has it watched over and protected the old city. These days, its perch on top of the cliffs overlooking the Adriatic makes for an amazing view. From the Old City, when you look north, you can't miss its imposing sight in front of Mount Srd. To reach it, exit the Pile Gate and head uphill. It's no more than a 10 minute walk. The fort was built by either the Venetians or the locals, depending on the version of local legend you believe. It has been dated to at least as early as 1018 or 1038, with earlier fortifications likely. Given its strategic spot on the Adriatic, Lovrijenac has seen many battles. The current fort of Lovrijenac has three levels, the lowest of which opens onto the sea via a drawbridge gate. At one point, there were two entrances to the fort, but the Austrians destroyed one to steal its gun years ago. Interestingly, the guns of the city can also turn on Lovrijenac. This was considered a backup in case of revolution or mutiny by the local regime. The hike up to the top level of Lovrijenac is steep. Those in good shape should be fine, just make sure to take water and shade (such as a hat), if the weather is warm. The opening times for the fortress are a bit erratic in the off-season. In high-season (summer), it is open from at least 10am to sunset. Even if the fortress itself is not open, it is certainly worth the climb to the base to enjoy the view. Looking down over the Adriatic and across to the lovely city of Dubrovnik whilst enjoying a picnic is a wonderful afternoon. It should also be noted that some excellent pictures of the old city can be taken from here.