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London

London: Quick, Easy & On Budget

Our family Gnome heads toward Big Ben on a walking tour of London.More Photos
  • by Jim Rosenberg
  • A February 2004 travel journal
  • Last Updated: November 19, 2006
Journal Usefulness Rating 4 out of 5
Journal Usefulness
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Experience
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Photos

Good news: London is the cheapest ticket to Europe going. Match it up with a good hotel deal that includes breakfast and enjoy yourself because a lot of the really great things to see in London are free or low-cost. Cheers!

London: Quick, Easy & On Budget

Overview

Our family Gnome heads toward Big Ben on a walking tour of London.
London is the number one European travel destination for Americans, probably owing much to the common language of English. For first-time visitors, there are some 'old reliable' attractions that are worth seeing, as well as the opportunity to explore this interesting city and make it your own. An excellent subway system will whisk you to points of interest and with the Thames River as a useful point of reference, London is simply not a very confusing place to go. Beyond the traditional sites, 'this earth, this realm, this England..' has a special charm all its own that keeps people coming back.

Quick Tips:

If you've not been to London before, don't shun the well-beaten tourist attractions -- they are popular for a reason and more intellectually stimulating than many typical American 'tourist traps'. Plan to eat meals in pubs and the smaller neighborhood restaurants where you see local working people go. London can be one of the most expensive places on earth, so you can either pay a little bit of attention or pay a LOT of money. Be careful crossing streets. People always ask about whether or not it is difficult to pick up driving on the left side of the road. The answer is 'not really', but the REAL danger is instinctively looking the wrong way for traffic before crossing the street.

Best Way To Get Around:

Don't rent a car unless you're exploring the countryside and drop it off before coming into the city. London has excellent public transportation between the tube, buses and taxis. Many major attractions are within convenient walking distance of each other. Driving in London is not fun and you can hire a babysitter by the hour in some midwestern cities for what it will cost you to park.

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London Victoria - Holiday Inn Express

Hotel

London Victoria - Holiday Inn Express

Don't let the chain name scare you. This is a typical Belgrave Road restored Victorian hotel building (yes, they ALL look the same from the outside). The interior is very nice, the staff is friendly and the rate is very fair for this area. Rooms are basic, but the beds are comfortable, the housekeeping is decent and the windows are actually operatable -- so you'll have what you need. Staircases are typically narrow for this type of building, but there's an elevator that will also get you where you're going.

The breakfast is a self-serve cold affair with croissants, fruit, cereal and toast. We liked the multiple-choice coffee machine that included latte and mocha selections. The hotel doesn't have a good situation for internet access; you'd need to do a dial-up connection and I found it just wasn't worth it -- so take note if that is an important hotel amenity to you.
). If you are a Priority Club points collector, this property can be be booked for 20,000 points when such rooms are available and that's a decent trade considering the avoided cost in cash involved. Prepay rates between 71-74 GBP are possible at times; ROH rates run closer to 90 GBP and this hotel does tend to fill up at popular times.

Location-wise, the hotel is within walking distance to Victoria Station but it is actually closer to the Pimlico tube station. If you like to walk, you'll find some of London's major sites within reasonable distance, including Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, Westminster Cathedral, Big Ben and the London Eye.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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London Victoria - Holiday Inn Express
106-110 Belgrave Road London, England
+044 (171) 630-8888

Hesperia London Victoria

Hotel

Holiday Inn London-Victoria (Now Hesperia hotel)

The Holiday Inn London-Victoria left the InterContinental Hotels Group in 2004 and is now known as the Hesperia London Victoria Hotel. It can't claim any particular level of old-world charm because it's a modern, Western-style hotel that is housed in a relatively recently constructed building. That aside, it has some advantages for travelers. The first is its location, right across from Victoria Station. For travelers arriving from London Gatwick, nothing could be easier than to pick up the Gatwick Express (11 GBP one-way) and take the 35-minute ride to Victoria. You will be able to see the hotel at your first opportunity to exit the portion of the station where the Gatwick Express arrives, and it is a short, easy walk.

Standard rooms aren't particularly large or plush, but they are clean and comfortable. There is a bank of what were formerly known as "Syndicate Rooms" on the eighth floor, featuring balconies accessible by a doorway from your room. While the view of the train station might not be considered particularly inspiring, it is a nice feature. We noted that these rooms also have high ceilings, which tends to compensate for the relatively small amount of floor space. Bathrooms seemed well done and immaculately clean. Elevators are "European scale," and with three of them to work nine floors, things can occasionally become a little backed up during high-traffic periods in the hotel, but not unreasonably so. Your room rate will generally include breakfast, and there is an excellent selection, including bacon, eggs, crusty rolls, cheeses, meats, and fruit, along with the requisite components of a proper London breakfast: bangers and beans. We offer the rate information advisedly here. The rack rates CAN be high. Happily, we've found that we could package this hotel in for far less. (One site where we found competitive rates LISTED: --but we haven't actually booked through this site. The hotel's official website can be found at:
If you can get it at a value rate, we highly recommend it for its proximity to transportation, hassle-free booking, helpfulness of staff, and overall quality.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on February 21, 2004

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Hesperia London Victoria
2 BRIDGE PLACE London, England 21019
44 207 8348123

Days Inn London Westminister

Hotel

The Comfort Inn-Westminster is typical of Belgrave Road hotels in terms of the exterior. When it comes to these hotels, the differences are inside.

Days Inn - Westminster

This is another very nicely restored Victorian building of the exact same type as the other hotels on Belgrave Road. (The uniformity of the exteriors of the buildings on this London street is really quite amazing; it is the interiors that vary widely and, obviously, that's what you should be concerned with). Again, this hotel is within walking distance of Victoria Station, convenient to the tube and to the many attractions within the Westminister area. If you feel "comfortable" with Comfort Inn, then this would be a logical choice for you (it was a Comfort Inn before changing nameplates within the past few years). But forget about any boiler-plate standards may be accustomed to seeing in the U.S. This is the unique, Belgrave Road version of a Days Inn. The name is about being part of a franchise marketing system and it gives you the opportunity to book with ease online, but it is not about any chain design elements beyond the signage and signature items.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Days Inn London Westminister
80 86 Belgrave Rd. London, England
+44-0-2078288661

Hilton London Metropole

Hotel

Rooms are standard fare; nothing special but adequate.

Hilton London Metropole

The Hilton London Metropole is a large hotel featuring east and west wings, plus a tower section. In terms of Hiltons, it meets franchise standards, but the rooms aren't anything above average in terms of decor and finish. There is in-room coffee and the rooms have mini-bars.

If you happen to be a Gold HH member or better, you'll appreciate the executive lounge on the second floor, which features a decent continental breakfast as well as complimentary coffee, beer, wine, and soft drinks. These are nice extras in a place like London. We found the common areas to be superior. There is also a decent swimming pool and health club facilities.


Housekeeping was excellent during our visit, and the staff was uniformly helpful and friendly. Tube access is excellent with two stations close by served by the Central, Circle, Bakerloo, and District lines. (If you're coming in from Gatwick, you need only pick up the Circle line at Victoria Station. Paddington is within reasonable walking distance, or one stop on the tube away.)


Overall, we give the Hilton Metropole a thumbs up and we noted outstanding rates available during certain periods of the off-season.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on February 20, 2006

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Hilton London Metropole
225 Edgware Road London, England
+44 (207) 4024141

Ristorante Le Palme

Restaurant

Ristorante Le Palme

You can stop by early to make your reservation. This is an excellent, white-linen dining experience where they really know how to prepare and serve a meal. It is within easy walking distance of your Belgrave Road hotel (walking toward Victoria Station, you would take a right on the 'most obvious' street and you will pass a number of restarants in this area). Along with the dinner, there was a harp player featured with absolute daggers for thumbnails that performed the evening we were there and was excellent. The owner is a little quirky, but very classy and he knows how to create a dining experience. There is a good wine selection and this place flies in the face of the idea that 'you can't get good food in London.' You can, right here.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Ristorante Le Palme
65 Wilton Road London, England SW1V 1DE
(020) 7828-6908

Piccadilly Brasserie

Restaurant

Piccadilly Brasserie

This is a great place to eat that offers two distinct options: a very casual pizza place downstairs and more upscale (but still relatively casual) dining experience upstairs. We had fish & chips, chicken kabobs and a few pints, entertained all the while by an immigrant waiter who was really a lot of fun. This is a bit more than simply a pub, so the prices are also a bit higher -- but that said, it wasn't a bad deal in terms of price and quality by London standards. Downstairs on the pizza side of things, you can expect to pay $15-$18 per person for pizzas and a couple of beers; again, not necessarily cheap, but a decent lunch for the price in these parts.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Piccadilly Brasserie
36 Haymarket London, England SW1Y 4SE
(020) 7839-1069

Hedgehog & Pheasant Pub

Restaurant

Hedgehog & Pheasant Pub

Oh, it's probably nothing special -- but we made it a 'home base' near our hotel on Belgrave Road. The clientele is a nice mix of locals and travelers. It's very informal, with friendly help. If you want to have an especially good time, try to get there during a soccer or rugby match on the big screen. There is a special room set aside for viewing the matches, with the major tilts advertised on signage in the bar. There is a wonderful selection of draught beer and wines available.

It's a close, safe walk back to your hotel on Belgrave Road and a great place to begin or end your evening on a fun and relatively inexpensive note. (Our pints were running around 2.50 GBP).
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Hedgehog & Pheasant Pub
25 Warwick Way London, England SW1V 1QT
(020) 7834-4987

Westminster Abbey

Activity

Queen Elizabeth I reigned for more than four decades prior to her death in 1603.

Westminster Abbey

This is by far the best $8 or so ticket in London, if you're into historic sites. Westminster Abbey is the final, royal resting place of many prominent figures in English history and crypts, chapels, knooks and crannies of this awesome gothic structure will instantly take you back to the Middle Ages. It is difficult to describe the feeling that a visitor gets while quietly walking among the full-sized, sculpted likenesses of so many famous people; hands praying and looking up to the heavens in hopes that their maker will not be vengeful at the last. It is at once fascinating and perhaps even a little on the eerie side. Do not miss Westminster Abbey -- if I could only visit one site in London, this would most certainly be the place. In addition to being a fantastic destination in its own right, getting there will put you right in the midst of the stately Parliament buildings and in the shadow of Big Ben. This is the part of London that many people dream of seeing and it will not disappoint you. Hot tip: don't go on an empty stomach -- you're likely to do better in the dining department by going to an area without the tremendous volume of official and tourist traffic that is concentrated in this relatively small area. Work it in relatively early and then enjoy a leisurely stroll along the Thames, leaving the crowd behind.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Westminster Abbey
20 Dean's Yard London, England SW1P 3PA
+44 (20) 7222 5152

Tower of London

Activity

London's Tower Bridge is not nearly as old as the nearby Tower of London, but it is a signature landmark.

Tower of London

'Her majesty's Palace & Fortress' is one of the must-sees on most tourist lists and it is well worth seeing, but it would not be tragic if you put it off for another time either. Our advice: don't take the tour -- do it yourself. The Tower of London is well-signed and you don't need to spend all the time the tour takes to appreciate it and learn what there is to know. You'll be able to evesdrop on any portions of the tour that you care to as you breeze past the slower-moving participants and you'll also be able to enjoy the colorful Beefeaters and stately ravens without any help. From the top of the wall facing the Thames, you will have an opportunity to get an excellent picture of the tower bridge at an attractive angle, do take that photo. If you're looking for a bite to eat in the neighborhood, good luck. There is not a great deal of selection and if it's non-business day, you're not even likely to find anything open. The highlight of the Tower of London: a look at the crown jewels, which are impressive. And security? Well, they'll put you on a conveyor belt to keep you moving as you pass by the precious display. Overall, we give the Tower high marks. Just don't try to make a day of it.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Tower of London
Tower Hill London, England EC3N 4AB
+44 (207) 709 0765

Madame Tussaud's

Activity

Okay, so we admit we are borrowing a picture from the official advertisement, but it shows more characters than we could get in our frame at once.

Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum

Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum hosts more than 2 million visitors annually and for good reason: it's fascinating. The volume and quality of the work is well worth the price of admission. (If you want to make more than two hours of your destination, the London Planetarium adjoins Madame Tussaud's and there is a combo ticket that will save you a pound or two). Each visitor is likely to gravitate to their own set of personalities in the museum and there truly IS something for everyone -- religious, political, entertainment, historical, pop culture -- Madame Tussaud's covers all the bases with celebrities through the years. Some of the figures are so life-like that you expect them to begin talking. Take your time and enjoy it all, but we recommend getting there early because the crowd can really tend to build as the day progresses. (You can check the hours in one of the visitor guides that are everywhere in London and you might even find a coupon). The Baker Street tube station will leave you within easy distance of the museum. And speaking of rides, the Madame Tussaud experience finishes with a flourish: A 'Black Taxi' style ride called the Spirit of London which will take you on a historic, sometimes creepy tour of past days in this famous city. It's really a great finish to a great stop!
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Madame Tussaud's
Marylebone Road London, England NW1 5LR
+44 (870) 999 0046

Buckingham Palace

Activity

An obligatory stop for first-time visitors, the neighborhood around the palace is filled with souvenir shops.

Buckingham Palace

By all means stop by Buckingham Palace to see it (and to have a ready answer to EVERYONE who will ask you if you did). It's an impressive landmark with beautiful grounds and, of course, the famous changing of the guard. Beyond that, you can take a tour (roughly $16) at various times of the year and some people would probably enjoy that. There is some impressive art and it is an elegant place to be sure -- but our advice would be to go to a gallery, if you like art... For palace buffs, more info is available at: http://www.royalresidences.com The area around the palace is dotted with little tourist traps and souvenir shops. Grab a few post cards or a brass Big Ben, if you need one. The prices are no worse here than anywhere else.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace Road London, England SW1A 1AA
+44 (207) 321 2233

Piccadilly Circus

Activity

A signature scene in London, Piccadilly Circus is always active and the hub of the city.

Piccadilly Circus

If you're a shopper, Piccadilly Circus is the creme de la creme of experiences in terms of variety, selection and people-watching opportunities. Even if you're NOT, Picadilly is well worth a few hours to walk around and enjoy. This is a very active and interesting piece of London and a reliable place to find activity when other parts of town are looking a little sleepy to you. You'll have no shortage of places to check out -- the sometimes eye-popping prices notwithstanding (How about that $1,100 wool kilt, Mom?). Just off the main drag, there is a well-marked shop featuring Beatles memorabilia of all kinds which is located next door to the little bar where Paul McCartney met Linda for the very first time. Overall, we consider Piccadilly Circus a mandatory stop and it is equally entertaining by day or by night.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 19, 2000

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Piccadilly Circus
Piccadilly Circus London, England W1

Chitty Chitty Bang Bang

Activity

Chitty Chitty Bang Bang

Ian Fleming is well-known for his James Bond 007 stories. His children's classic story of a magical car is woven around a cast of characters that includes a would-be inventor, his two children, a grandfather, Miss Truly Scrumptious, and the villainous leaders of Vulgaria, along with the reprehensible Child Catcher.

The music will be familiar to those who have seen the movie, but what is especially interesting is how well the production captures the rolling, floating, flying car. This performance is nothing short of delightful for the kids, and viewing it as an adult who saw the film, I found it marvelously enchanting. The orchestra was superb, the stage devices were ingenious, the acting was animated, and the setting in London's classic Palladium theatre made it an excellent afternoon of entertainment. There could be no better way to introduce young people to the theatre than through this fabulous spectacle!

We made use of the official half-price theatre ticket booth in Leicester Square to save substantially for a Sunday matinee in early February; not a sure thing, perhaps, but a great bargain for a musical that is well worth its price regardless.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on February 7, 2005