Thessaloniki - Greece's 2nd City

Thessaloniki, also known as Saloniki, is a great city to walk around. It does not have the same degree of traffic congestion as Athens and therefore, doesn't have the same problems with pollution either. The waterfront promenade is scenic and there are many tree lined streets and green areas. I'd say it has a more European feel to it - more cosmopolitan and progressive than its big sister to the south. There are still lots of buildings of historical significance, especially Byzantine churches, and the archaeological museum is definitely worth a visit. Thessaloniki also has its own Plaka but the area is mostly old homes that have not been kept up over the years although there is a move afoot to renovate and return them to their earlier glory.

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It's still a pretty large city but many of the major tourist sights are centralized which makes walking relatively easy. There are express trains from Athens to Thessaloniki and the ride passes through lots of green countryside and small towns and villages. Saloniki also has its own airport and it is much less chaotic than the one in Athens.

This hotel definitely falls in the budget category. The rooms are old & small - 2 twin beds took up most of the space. The bathroom was clean but so old that it still looked grimey and the hand held shower was an interesting challenge. On the positive side, the hotel was a 10 min. walk from the train station, had all night security in the lobby (the fellow slept behind the front desk) and the room had a small fridge. Only if you're on a tight budget would I recommend this place.

The Greeks and Turks have had a volatile relationship over the centuries but one of Turkey's most popular statesmen was born in Thessaloniki in 1881 when it was still under Ottoman rule. Mustafa Kamal spent his early years in this house with his parents (his father died when Mustafa was young) and his sister. He left in the early 1900s to go to Turkey and became the first President of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, a position he held until his death in 1938. Under his rule, Turkey gave equal rights to women, advanced the arts and sciences, permitted religious freedom and made education free and available to all. Turkey honoured him with the name, Ataturk, meaning Father of the Turks. The house is small and plain from the outside. Inside, it has been furnished with period furniture from the late 1800s and early 1900s and contains many pictures of and information on Ataturk. It's located near the Turkish consulate and you need to ask someone there to let you into the house. If you are interested in Turkish history, this little house will be of interest to you.

This Byzantine church is one of the most visited churches in Thessaloniki. Its red brick exterior has seen better days and although it doesn't look like much from the outside it is worth a visit. The church is modelled after Ayia Sofia in Istanbul and has a large, tall dome at its centre. Inside the dome is an original mosaic (about 10th century, I think) called The Ascension. Another mosaic of note is the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus. The Church is located at the corner of Ermou and Ay Sofia streets.

This Venetian style building looks like a big chess piece and was built in the 16th century. It is sometimes called the Bloody Tower because it was used as a prison and for executions. Now it is a multi level museum with displays detailing the history of the city. As you walk up the indoor, circular stone stairs, you will see great views of the harbour and town from its 6 story windows. It is located right by the harbour and the seaside promonade that passes it is a nice place for a relaxing stroll. It is about 2 blocks from the archeological museum and is on a main bus route.

This museum doesn't seem as pretentious as the one in Athens but is well laid out and has many displays detailing the history of Greece and archaeological finds from around the Thessaloniki area. Outside is a large collection of stone sarcophagi. At the time of our visit, the main exhibit was a collection of religious items and art from the monasteries at Mt. Athos. Mt. Athos takes up one "arm" of the Halkidi Penninsula and is an isolated community of monks. Women are not permitted on the site at all and male visitors must get special permission before visiting so it was a real treat to see this exhibit since I will never get a chance to visit Mt. Athos. The archaeological museum is located a few blocks from the large Exhibition grounds.