SoBe It

Pretending to be guests at The Hotel, designer Todd Oldham’s South Beach offering. You could easily spend the better part of an afternoon, as we did, drinking vodka tonics at the rooftop pool bar, listening to deep house over the sound system, and admiring the ocean view--you’d be hard-pressed to find a better one. I even took a dip in the pool--oh so coooooold.

Being stereotypical tourists and cruising the streets in a rented convertible (see Getting Around, below, for rental details), with the proverbial top down (never mind the sunstroke).

Checking out the city’s fantastic architecture, from SoBe’s Art Deco stylings—even Walgreens and Burger King are Deco-rated—to the grandiose coral-hued Mediterranean villas in the appropriately named Coral Gables neighborhood.

Poking around the numerous 99¢ stores in Little Havana and coming away with (sac)religious paraphernalia (I swear I left the plastic bottles of holy water alone).

Thumbing our noses at the velvet-rope club scene (breaking out of Riker’s penitentiary may be easier than gaining entry to SoBe’s hot spots), and opting for the cool, design-conscious, hotel-bar scene instead.

Quick Tips:

To save on airfare and hotel, go in low-season (July-August), when prices are rock bottom (but temperatures sky-high). We booked a terrific package deal, including flight and three-night’s stay, for , here.

Certain aspects of Miami are just plain expensive no matter when you visit. Two drinks will likely cost (with tip), whatever you order, wherever you go. Food, too, is also surprisingly costly considering the quality--it must be the atmosphere we’re paying for. We found some good, affordable joints nonetheless; they’re reviewed in this journal.

The cost of renting a beach chair and umbrella depends on where you are on the beach. The gay section around 11 Street is the most expensive stretch of sand (you’ll shell out for two chairs and an umbrella) but, a mere 100 yards north around 13 Street, the exact-same arrangement will ring it at ; umbrellas cost at both. Unfortunately, you have to give everything back by 5pm--well before sunset.

To read up on what’s happening around town, check the listings sections of the two local weeklies: the stalwart Miami New Times (click here), and its new rival, the witty Street Miami (click here).

Best Way To Get Around:

Those traveling alone will save some cash by taking the airport shuttle bus (circa to any hotel in SoBe; supershuttle.com). If you’re a duo, you’ll actually pay less to take a taxi (+tip to the same area); rates from the airport are fixed by zone but go by the meter elsewhere (starting around .50).

You won’t need a car at all if you plan on sticking to South Beach for the duration of your stay. The neighborhood is easily walkable and, when your feet get tired, you can always hop aboard the Electrowave, an air-conditioned minibus that shuttles up and down Washington Avenue for the low, low fare of 25¢ (every 15 minutes; Mon–Sat 8am–1am, Sun 10am–1am; exact change required). A taxi will cost around to run the distance between the Delano and South Pointe.

Should you decide to rent a car, the local Thrifty outlet at 1520 Collins Ave. (inside the Tropicana Hotel; thrifty.com) has good rates; a upgrade snagged us a snazzy convertible with unlimited mileage for .99 a day. The Hertz desk at the Loews Hotel (1601 Collins Ave.; hertz.com) charged .99 for a mid-size car.

Housed in a little Art Deco gem tucked behind well-groomed hedges just steps from sceney Lincoln Mall, this charming five-floor hotel hasn’t scrimped on details just to make ends meet. In fact, it has probably the nicest lobby of any budget hotel I’ve ever stayed (see photo, below). This is where you’ll find a Continental breakfast (included in the price) laid out every morning, including tiny croissants, pains au chocolat, and various Danish pastries. You can load ‘em up on a tray to take back to your room (via the trippy mirrored European-style elevator), or nosh down right there on one of the comfortable sofas bathed in sunlight. When you’re done, you can even check your email, free of charge, in the tiny alcove off to the left of the elevator.

The rooms themselves, while less fancy than the lobby, also have design elements that are a cut above the usual budget fare. The look is a kind of streamlined cottage chic, with cord area rugs, double beds with beachwood headboards, and hardwood floors. Other pluses include plenty of natural light from the large picture windows, cable TV, and phone. The only thing that could possibly be a downside for some visitors is the bathroom: it comes with shower only, no bath. Note: ask for a corner room when you reseve; they’re modestly bigger than the rest and come with two glorious sets of windows.

While the hotel doesn’t have its own swimming pool, don’t fear: its upmarket sister hotel, The Albion (click here), does, and Greenview guests can use it free of charge. It’s just around the corner and is pretty funky—it sits on a raised platform with peek-a-boo portholes below, where guests can check out bathers’ underwater antics.

Visit the Greenview Hotel online, and be sure to check out their special packages for cut-rate deals.

This off-the-beaten-path Coral Gables brewpub is a terrific place to hit after taking a dip in the nearby Venetian Pools.

It doesn't look like much when compared with South Beach's stylin', over-the-top décor--inside finds a wood-finished bar, gleaming copper-sided beer-brewing vats, and televised sports, while the exterior could double as the entrance to a small town Lion’s Club. That said, this pub has a downright local appeal altogether absent from most SoBe spots.

Indeed, this brewpub has a lot to offer, especially if you’re looking to escape the South Beach scene for a day (or night). Its University of Miami-area location translates into a younger, more down-to-earth crowd than SoBe tends to get; plus, its all-around, out-of-the-way address means you’re likely to meet some bonafide Miami locals.

Never mind that one bite of this joint's Essential Burger will have you singing this low-key pub's praises, too.

The burger in question is consistently voted Miami's best, and arrives at the table fat, juicy, and perfectly cooked--I tried it with a slice of jalapeño jack cheese for extra zing. One bite into it, and I was ready to do Miami one better by proclaiming it the best burger I'd ever had in my life, period.

I washed it down with a pint of one of the pub's six award-winning homebrews (Captain Smith's Rye Ale, to be precise, which is made with malted rye for a 6% alcohol content) and started thinking of spending the rest of the afternoon.

Though I did wind up skedaddling, there was plenty worth sticking around for, like the Titanic Porthole Sampler--six 5-oz. glasses filled with a sample of each beer on tap, which is a sweet deal, at $4.50. Plus, come nightfall, you can catch a live rock, Latin, or reggae act (Thurs-Sat; free). At prices like that, it’s worth the trek.

You can get a sneak preview of their home-brewed beers and upcoming live acts by checking their website: Titanic.com

We discovered this unpretentious mostly-vegetarian (it does serve chicken and fish) restaurant while looking for picnicky food to take to the beach.

What a find! Tucked behind a small storefront window on Washington Avenue (it’s quite easy to miss), this counter-service spot uses only organic and natural ingredients to create its fine offerings; it's a treat, on the freshness scale, when compared with many more-upscale SoBe restaurants, where produce seems to err on the tired side; and is downright cheap considering the tasty and ample portions you get.

They packed up our delicious "Avocado Delight" (avocado-, cucumber-, alfalfa-, and mushroom-filled pita with a side salad; $4.99) in a no-nonsense plastic container to take to the beach. It wasn’t the only enticing menu item, either: tofu and pesto sandwiches, thai-vegetable and chicken-teriyaki wraps, falafels, and organic black-bean burgers all vied for our attention ($5.99–$6.49). More health-conscious people than I am might also enjoy the Healthy House Protein Salad, a mix of cottage cheese, tomatoes, boiled egg, olives, nuts, and assorted greens ($6.49).

If our avocado sandwich was any indication, this hole-in-the-wall eatery takes its ingredients seriously without charging customers the whole enchilada to enjoy them. If you’re looking for a perfect lunch to take to the beach, make this your first, and only, stop.

Don’t let the underwhelming exterior of this popular SoBe seafood restaurant fool you into thinking the inside is just as drab--it couldn’t be less so. This corner eatery’s two dining rooms are sufficiently out-of-sync to make you think the designer had an identity crisis while putting the lot together.

The first one you’ll see, on entering, boasts a Grecianesque wall fresco, a slew of ‘weathered’ Corinthian columns, and candles dripping with month-old wax for an overall feel that’s part Gothic, part rococo. The second, through an ersatz archway off the first, is dotted with antique cooking pots, fusty fencing swords, and heavy chandeliers--a look best described as "early 20th-century Austrian homestead." On the plus side, making sense of this bizarre pastiche will give you plenty to talk about over dinner.

And dinner, by Miami standards, is quite good.

Not surprisingly, given the name of the place, the main serving is fish, and there seem to be at least eight varieties (ranging from mahimahi to rainbow trout) to choose from on any given day. What’s on offer is simply listed on chalkboards hanging from the walls; all you have to do is choose the one you want, how you’d like it cooked (grilled, piccata, or marsala); and which side you’d like (pasta, salad, or corn). The simplicity of the food selection is a pleasant antidote to the complicated surroundings.

We opted for a calimari starter and grilled artichoke, followed by scallops piccata (for me), and grilled mahimahi (for my dining partner). Everything grilled was fantastic--light, cooked to perfection, and ample. The artichoke was our favorite dish of the lot: it came to the table cut in quarters, with burnt leaves that gave it a pleasant barbecued taste. My scallops were the only letdown: cooked in a piccata sauce (with garlic, tomato, and wine), the dish was heavier than it should have been.

Rounding off the experience was an affordable ($27) bottle of pinot grigio that came recommended by our waiter and which did, indeed, complement our fish quite nicely.

Overall, I’d recommend this restaurant to anyone looking for an uncomplicated and affordable seafood dinner in South Beach.

It's hard not to love a restaurant with a name like Big Pink, and this ultra-kitschy South Beach diner doesn't disappoint. The 'big' is for the size of the portions (trust me, they're humongous!), and the place prizes itself on offering "real food for real people . . . really!" (With a slogan like that, it seems tailor-made to IgoUgo travelers!)

Nestled in the up-and-coming South Pointe area of South Beach, across the street from its sister-restaurant Nemo (a much fancier affair), Big Pink achieves a near-impossible feat on the Miami restaurant scene: it appeals to positively everyone (couples, singles, groups, scenesters, and families alike).

Partly it's the set-up that makes it such a crowd-pleaser: you’ll find Formica-covered tables, multiple big-screen TVs showing sports and movies, and comfy booth seating along one wall (the only 50s gimmick that’s hasn't been recreated here is a waitstaff on roller skates; they wear sensible shoes, instead).

Fun, relaxed atmosphere aside, kids will go crazy for the heavenly milkshakes (the thick Banana Chocolate Peanut Butter option is a meal on its own), while the older generation can happily succumb to nostalgia and order the restaurant's signature Big Pink TV Dinner. That's right--expect a stainless-steel tray with six different compartments piled high with daily-chosen meat-and-vegetable dishes they swear aren’t Swanson-made. Unfortunately, you can't take the tray home with you after you've licked the platter clean (but they do sell cute T-shirts that make a nice substitute).

And when they say big, they mean it. We ordered a meal for one--chicken fingers to start, and sesame-seared tuna to follow--and couldn't even finish them, even with both of us giving it a go. Maybe it was the decadent chocolate and banana milkshakes we each had to drink--no cutting corners here, we got a full mixer's-worth of frothy goodness apiece. The only disappointment was the sesame-seared tuna entrée, which turned out to be both heavy and flavorless. Our chicken-finger starter, however, was hmmm-mmmm good.

With menu items and ambience like this, the restaurant also makes a great late-night stop (it stays open til 5am on weekends). If you're in need of a post-drink-up feeding to stave off your hangover, this is the place to get it.

You can check out their menu and recipes on their website (www.bigpinkrestaurant.com).

Miami’s proximity to Cuba has long had an influence on the city’s soul, its food, and, more recently, its politics, thanks to the Elián Gonzáles controversy, which made a visit to this much-talked-about neighborhood a priority for me on this trip.

Thank God we went by car: it’s not easy to get to via local transportaion, and, after putzing around for an hour or so, we were happy to get moving. Which isn’t to say that the neighborhood isn’t worth visiting--quite the opposite--but rather, that you needn’t budget much time unless there’s a special event going on.

The main draws can be seen in less than 15 minutes, but are definitely worth sussing out, at least for the novelty of seeing two American flags flying alongside two Cuban ones. That’s right--head to Cuban Memorial Boulevard, at SW 13 Street, between Calle Ocho (SW 8th Street) and SW 12th Street, and you’ll see four flagpoles hung with patriotic emblems from both countries guarding an underwhelming memorial to two heroes of the Cuban War of Indepedence (Jose Martí and Antonio Maceo). A sweeter moment of Cuban pride is actually behind this officious-looking site, where a statue of the Virgin Mary stands before a massive kapok tree with roots that spread above the sidewalk--the tree has an important role in the santeria religion practiced by many Cubans, who tend to leave offerings at its--and Mary’s--base. Take a few steps behind the tree, and you’ll come up to a huge wall overlaid with a map of Cuba, which is, unfortunately, good for refreshing your geography, but little else.

Interestingly (or sadly), the main reason to visit Little Havana may be the abundance of 99¢ stores that line the main drag, Calle Ocho. I had a great time browsing through a seemingly endless supply of religious paraphernalia--holy water; 3-D and holographic images of Christ; and baseball hats emblazoned with his name--alongside more mundane items like cheapie beach towels and tupperware.

Perhaps it’s telling that, when we asked one store clerk what we should see around there, she said, "South Beach."

Located on the top floor of The Hotel, this is the spot to hit for a sunset cocktail, when the view of the Atlantic Ocean, with a smidgeon of beach in the foreground and a purple-streaked sky above it, is quite possibly the best around. Bar management obviously knows this too, since they’ve set up a series of comfy loungers directly facing the water.

Even without its star attraction, this poolside bar is one sweet hideout. We liked it so much, we went back to spend our last afternoon imbibing under a poolside umbrella, surrounded by Todd Oldham’s signature eye-catching stripes (in teal, orange, and white) along the pool deck, and a handful of snuggly cabins outfitted with cozy white sofas perfect for two--you can seal yourself in there by closing the tie-dyed drapes, and no one will know what you’re up to!

We basked while the bartender, JC, played chill deep house to keep us relaxed, gave us a round on the house, and made sure we wanted for nothing. With a view, service, and music like this, how could we?

In fact, were so impressed with this spot that we intend to stay at The Hotel itself on our next visit.

Note that, for now, the bar closes at 8pm. To get there, take the elevator to the top floor, and ignore the sign that says "for hotel clients only"--we had no problems whatsoever.

The only thing blue about this narrow slip of a SoBe lounge is its color scheme--you guessed it, the place is decked out in the shade.

We made it our last stop on a Saturday night out and were thrilled to discover a rare jewel in the local nightlife scene. This is one club/lounge that doesn’t charge a cover, give attitude, or do the velvet-rope routine. That’s right: I didn’t have to stand in line, get the once-over by picky bouncers, and then pay for the honor of getting in. What a welcome change! In fact, the only froufrou I noticed at this quality hangout was the bathroom lady selling glow-in-the-dark lighters and various bonbons (she was not at all the type to expect tips just for handing you a paper towel).

What’s more, Blue’s nonexistent door policy doesn’t translate into mediocre bar, either. This is the perfect place to kick back for a drink with the late-20s-early-30s set, listen to great tracks of the house and drum ‘n’ bass variety, and lounge about on comfy leather sofas (a nice respite for stiletto-worn feet). The space is wonderfully intimate (it probably measures less than 20 feet across), which makes it easy to meet the good mix of locals and travelers who frequent the place.

And, when you’re ready to get moving again, you can head next door to the local poolhall. Go early, stay late, whatever--his relaxed lounge is worth a stop no matter the time of night.

Phone: 305/534-1009

There’s more to Miami than South Beach, as this tony neighborhood certainly proves. And what a contrast it is to SoBe’s sun-baked streets. Coral Gables is dominated by leafy avenues, coral-hued haciendas, and elegant architecture--all of it the brainchild of George Merrick, the area’s founder and urban planner. In fact, this area is so distinct from the rest of the city that it actually constitutes its own town, with civic council and residential regulations to match.

Since we were there on a weekend in low-season (the summer) the neighborhood’s two main attractions, the Venetian Pools and the Coral Gables Merrick House, were closed. But that didn’t stop us from gazing contentedly at the soothing coral-hued haciendas that line the main drag, Coral Way. Just driving along this road is a treat in and of itself, as the boulevard is overhung with majestic trees dripping with Spanish moss. Cruising along, with the green canopy above us and the top down on our convertible, was positively luxurious when compared with the brick-and-mortar skyscraper cover I usually find myself below in New York City.

Even though the Merrick house, at 970 Coral Way, was closed (it was actually designed by George’s mother, Althea), we still stomped around the grounds, admiring the wonderful wrap-around verandah, and checking out Ms. Merrick’s grotto garden in the back, where a tiny goldfish pond is tucked behind a picturesque stone archway. Then we hopped back in the car to check out the digs at the Biltmore Hotel (1200 Anastasia Avenue; www.biltmorehotel.com), Merrick’s pièce de résistance, and onetime playground of Al Capone, Judy Garland, Ginger Rogers, and various European royalty.

In a word: wow.

Opened in 1926, with a central tower modeled after one in Seville, the Biltmore still--even after all this time and architectural adancement--makes one helluva statement. It lords over everything around it--including the grassy expanse of the neighboring 18-hole golf course. Its wing span is so vast, you’ll be hard-pressed to fit it in your camera viewfinder--I had to settle for a shot of the tower alone. Meanwhile, the façade is covered with all sorts of fanciful tricks, and hides an astounding inner courtyard, complete with soaring archways and tile mosaics, that could have been copied from a Mediterannean palazzo.

There’s even something for children to enjoy here, since the lobby houses two antique aviaries filled with chicks, who burrow their tiny bodies into nesting boxes on the sides. The scene is positively delightful.

And remember, just because you can''t afford to stay here (the rates are outrageous!), you can still pretend you''re a paying guest and walk around the place with your nose in the air. I certainly did!