Quebec- City of Ups and Downs

We chose the lower city as our base on this trip. We were within a few blocks of Place Royal and directly behind the Musee de la Civilization. By walking along the St Lawrence in an easterly direction we were able to easily visit the Old Port of Quebec Interpretation Center and the Farmers Market. The Chevalier House and the Rue Petit Champlain were easily accessible by walking in a westerly direction.

Behind us was the Upper City. A short walk up the Rue de la Montagne (this is a very steep walk and not for the faint of heart) took us to Montmerancy Parkand Notre Dame de Quebec. By crossing the Prescott Gate and going up the Frontenac Stairs, we were on the Terrace Dufferin and in the middle of all the action of the Summer Festival.

Entertainment off all kinds is provided at venues all across the city free of charge during the several festivals that are held each year. For information go to www.infofestival.com

Quick Tips:

Quebec began it’s existence as Samuel de Champlain’s "Abitation". It was located in the old city of Quebec, where the church of Notre Dame des Victoires now stands. From 1608 to 1629, it remained in French hands. An English invasion launched by the Kirk brothers led to a 3-year change of ownership. In 1632, Quebec was again back under the leadership of the French.

Most colonists came to Canada with the hope of one day becoming landowners. In order to achieve this, they signed on to work 3 years for one of the large landowners in order to pay for their passage. At the end of that time, they were allowed to buy land or were granted a concession. In exchange, they would supply some goods or service to the seigneur of the land in the old European feudal style. The development of the province to this day shows the remnants of this seigniorial system. You can almost date the founding of the towns by how close or distant they are from the St. Lawrence. Quebec City is no exception; it developed in much the same way with the earliest settlements being closest to the river.

Best Way To Get Around:

Quebec is a city meant to be walked. We parked our car at the hotel and didn’t get it again until we left the city. If climbing stairs or steep hills is a problem, there are cabs available. If you must drive, be prepared to pay every 2 hours on your parking meter or try to find long-term parking. We discovered another long-term underground parking lot on this trip very close to the Hotel de Ville. Fete d’Ete was on when we were there over the Fourth of July, and most of the activities during our stay were happening in the upper town. This was actually a blessing, as it was still quiet and relatively uncrowded in the lower city, where we were staying.

Auberge St. Pierre is everything you would expect a French Inn to be and more. Tucked away in a narrow one way street in the lower city it offers an air of old world charm and sophistication not to mention peace and quiet. Formerly owned by an insurance company, the building dates from 1821. The Rue St. Pierre was known as the Wall Street of Quebec because of the number of banks located there. Our check-in went very smoothly. We parked in front of the hotel; parking is valet only and there are two spots in front for you to leave your car. Parking is $13 a day (Canadian), a bargain for inner city parking.

We had opted for a little more expensive category of rooms, The Classic. Our room 109 was up one flight of stairs, and we didn’t have the option of an elevator. We had a fabulous room; it is by far the largest room I have ever had, anywhere. The walls and ceiling were a bright red with white crown molding. The headboard, night stands, armoire and desk are painted yellow. We had two fluffy bathrobes in the armoire, a luxury I always enjoy. The duvet on the feather bed was floral and coordinated with the yellow in the furniture. This is Country French Décor at its best. We had three feather pillows on our bed and three flowered shams. It was a very welcoming bed. If you want a bed larger than a double you have to get one of the more expensive rooms but believe me this is no hardship.

Our bathroom had a spa tub, pedestal sink, dressing table, two mirrors, four large towels, hairdryer and loads of pretty soaps and shampoos. There was a shiny wood floor in the bathroom with tan and aqua ceramic tiles on the wall.

We had a separate entrance way with a coat rack. It was just lovely. The room came with a coffeepot and plenty of coffee and tea. There was a sitting area with two comfortable chairs and a table. Perfect for that early morning cup of coffee. Breakfast is included and you have your choice from the menu. The selections include omelets, eggs, crepes and waffles. We also got a free glass of wine or beer on the evening of our choice in the bistro.

Jason and Jen had an Economic room and though it was much smaller than ours, it had all the same amenities including the spa tub. They also had an elevator in their part of the building.

The staff here is charming and helpful and they have a concierge on duty. This is a fabulous hotel and I would come here again in a heartbeat.

The Casse Cou stairs are a Quebec landmark and as you climb the stairs (or descend as the case may be) you will pass the Restaurant at the top and the Bistro at the half way point. Located on two separate floors of one of the old stone houses, Chez Rabelais offers both outdoor or indoor dining. We chose indoor at the Bistro. The menu is perhaps a bit more limited at the Bistro but the all you can eat Mussels for $17 was hard to pass up.

The interior has stone walls and looks exactly like what it is, a very old house. There are mirrors on the walls which make the room seem not quite so claustrophobic. It is small and a trip to the restroom can become quite an adventure. But those all you can eat mussels are too tempting to pass up.

The really fabulous part is that those delightful mussels can be had in an almost limitless variety of ways. Who would have expected Normandine done with cream, calvados and apples, this was an exquisite pairing or Dijonaise with dijon, wine and cream. And for all of you mussel lovers out there, there was not a grain of sand in any of the mussels we ate.

If Normandine sounds too exotic you can try the garlic, onions and cream, or just the garlic and onion, or the provincial which added tomatoes. For those who can’t make up your mind you can choose to have each bowl different. The bowls come with a large plate of very good French Fries served with mayonnaise for dipping. If you haven’t tried them this way you will be amazed at how good they go together.

Al of course being a carnivore had a steak which was served with French fries as well and Jason had a Mesculen and goat cheese salad. Jen and I had the mussels.

Al and I began our meal with an appetizer of calamari and this came as close to being what we joking call coated elastic bands as I ever want to come. They were terrible and I was very disappointed and apprehensive about the rest of our meal. Luckily the entrée was so delicious that I have completely forgiven them for their misstep in the calamari department and I would gladly come back for more mussels.

They were also offering a lobster special, either broiled or boiled with potatoes and vegetables and the table next to us had one each way. They seemed to be quite happy with their choice.

I would like to try this restaurant again and next time eat out on the terrace overlooking the stairs. The view down the full length of Rue Petit Champlain would be worth dealing with the crowds on the stairs.

Update: July 2004: We ate outdoors and had the mussels again, a little more expensive with the weakened US dollar but just as delicious.

This was our first dining experience at the old port. We spent our first afternoon walking the area and looking over the menus that are posted outside all the restaurants. This was one of the first ones we looked at but we walked around for 45 minutes trying to make up our mind before the rain caused us to run back to our first choice.

La Pizzetta is a typical café with wooden tables and chairs with blue striped seats. The tables are set out on the sidewalk in a very Parisian way, and the smoking section is in the rear so you don’t have to walk through it to get to non-smoking. Another nice touch was that the front windows open wide so you feel like you are outdoors even though you’re inside. There are curtains hung that give the dining areas an intimate atmosphere and murals on the walls. Altogether a very attractive atmosphere.

I began my meal with an appetizer of grilled Camembert with egg plant, courgette and red peppers. Al had warm Camembert with pistou and Italian tomatoes served with pita and drizzled with olive oil. Both of them were fabulous, the cheese was fragrant and creamy and the vegetables done just right and seasoned with herbs. We both had a chicken Caesar salad for our entrée and it was just as expected grilled chicken on romaine lettuce with cheese. A hard meal to go wrong with but I prefer my chicken warm and this was served cold. The addition of capers was an unusual and inspired choice

Jason and Jen ordered a pizza, half chevre and half three cheese (mozzarella, romano and parmesan). The chevre was served with sundried tomatoes on it. The way they served it was also quite unique. They attach a little warmer to the side of the table and put the pizza on the warmer; you then serve yourself. You have a choice of 13 or 17 inch pizza. The table next to us was enjoying a bleu cheese and smoked salmon pizza, which they assured us was delicious. This is pizza of the very thin crusted variety with a slightly sweet sauce.

We didn’t have room for dessert but they offer cappuccino, cheesecake, chocolate mousse, panna cota and more. This restaurant tries very hard and even if they fall a little short in some areas, they are well worth a visit. Service was good and the over all experience was very good.

The Interpretation Center is easy to spot; it has a ship on the front with a sailor looking through a spyglass.Curiosity alone will draw you in. A costumed interpreter greets you and after paying your admittance you sit through a seven-minute video which will familiarize you with the Port of Quebec.

Shipbuilding in Quebec reached it peak early in the 19th century. Two hundred ships were built in the port of Quebec during that one hundred years. There was a time when Quebec was the busiest port in North America. This fact when you consider the competition, is quite amazing. More amzing even when you consider that at least part of the year the river is frozen. Quebec as a port was developed on the logging trade and with preferential treatment by England was able to dominate the industry for many years. After 1875, England again began to use the Baltic Ports rather than Quebec; this along with the dredging of the St. Lawrence, led to Quebec’s decline as a world class port.

At first glance, this appears to be a rather simple museum. It is definitely low tech. The exhibits however, especially on the third floor are fascinating for adults. They describe in detail the logging trade. You follow the timber from the logging camps, down the rivers as huge rafts and onto ships to be sent around the world. This part of the museum is more interesting for adults than for children. There is a lot of reading involved and not a lot of action. The first floor however, has many interactive things for the children. Jason and Jen brought their girls back to visit this museum when they came in August and it was their favorite. The interpreters interacted much more with the children than they did with us adults and they were encouraged to climb the riggings and hoist the ropes. All of the exhibits here are signed in both French and English.

When you are done with the third floor exhibits go out onto the back terrace. You have a fabulous view of the port and the farmers market.

Picture tables laden with the most luscious strawberries that you can imagine. The air is heavy with their perfume. They draw you like a magnet. This is Les Halles Market. Located in the Old Port of Quebec, local farmers from the Ile D’Orleans, nicknamed the breadbasket of the province, bring their fruits, vegetables, wine, honey, breads, pies, candies, artwork and more to sell at ridiculously low prices.

There is parking right at the market, for a price,(you can get your ticket validated with any purchase) or you can walk from almost anywhere in the city. We had spied the market from our birds eye view at the Interpretation Center and we followed the boardwalk over.

Each farm has its own area and they are all well marked. Take your time and don’t jump at the first basket of berries to catch your fancy. If you want to sample the merchandise just ask the attendant and you will be encouraged to do just that. My only misgiving was that the baskets of strawberries were so big I couldn’t possibly eat that many and without refrigeration they would spoil. My patience paid off when I found a farm selling small baskets near the end of the market.

Another fabulous find was the most monumental loaf of wheat bread which made it home quite intact and which I sliced and froze. I still have several slices left, since I have been rationing it out to myself. The Canadians like the French really know how to bake a fine loaf of bread.

Jen and I spent quite some time digging through cartons of small pictures suitable for framing and hanging. Most of them were pastels and of local scenery. The $5 price tag was less than half of what they would have sold for in the city.

There is a small restaurant on the site and a fromagerie. You can get honey from ST. Anne de Beaupre or Wine from Ste. Petronille. I bought some yummy tasting strawberry rhubarb jam to take home and some others as gifts. This is actually a great place to pick up some unique and interesting items to take home at a great price. Just keep in mind that plants cannot be brought back to the States.

The market is open every day from 9am to 5pm.

The Musee de Civilization is Quebec City'd premier museum. If you stay in the upper city it’s a bit of a hike but if you stay at the Auberge St. Pierre you can walk out the front door, cross the street and enter the rear entrance to the Musee. It couldn’t be more convenient.

At first glance, you will under estimate this fabulous museum. It is divided into galleries on either side of the museum on two floors. You have the option of touring on your own or taking a guided tour. The guided tours alternate French and English every hour. Don’t miss the exhibit of the Barque which is on the main level; it is a 200 year old boat that was discovered only a decade ago. These are the very vessels that were used to build this province.

There are several permanent exhibits and many that change. We decided to take the guided tour of the exhibit on the Middle Ages, Gratia Dei . It was a 45-minute tour that gave a very good overview of the entire exhibit but it left me wanting to come back to do a closer tour of the exhibits. There were items on display from museums all over Europe. I was very impressed. The exhibit spilled over into the center courtyard where there were costumed players reenacting middle age crafts; this was a great favorite with children and adults. While we were waiting for the tour to start, we did a quick run through the exhibit Forever Blue . This was a fabulous exhibit of everything from art, to clothes, uniforms, statues of Mary and just about anything you can imagine that is blue, including some live blue birds.

My favorite exhibit is always the one on this history of the province Memoires. It covers the history through the lives of regular people. You see what life was like for the Quebecois over the last almost 400 years. You see their homes, their jobs, their clothes, their religious beliefs and it brings you right into where they are today. This exhibit will teach you more than any history book about what it means to live in the province of Quebec.

Encounter with the First Nations will introduce you to the Native Americans who populated Canada long before the white man arrived. You are introduced to the different tribes, their ancestral homes and their life styles.

What really surprised me was how entertained I was by the Skin Talks exhibit and It's a Dog's Life exhibit. Both of them are excellent. We spent more than three hours touring through the museum and we could have spent more. If you have lots of energy, you can even climb the tower for an outstanding view of the Old Port.

As you enter the Place Royale, your eyes are immediately drawn to the little silver and gray stone church which seems to dominate the square. Physically, it is quite small and in age, it isn''t the oldest in Quebec but in ambiance and location it certainly is hard to beat.

Notre Dame began its life as a chapel dedicated to the Christ Child in 1683 under the auspices of Quebec’s first Bishop, Francois de Laval. It occupies the site of Samuel de Champlain’s original Abitation. In 1690 when Governeur Frontenac defeated Admiral William Phipps, the church was rededicated as Notre Dame de la Victoire (Our Lady of Victory). Eleven years later when Admiral Walker''s fleet was shipwrecked on its way up the St. Lawrence River to attack Quebec, the church was renamed Notre Dame des Victoires (Our Lady of the Victories).

Unfortunately, Our Lady’s protection was not enough to save Notre Dame from General Wolfe’s bombardment of 1759. The English felt that the best way to demoralize the French Catholic’s was to target their churches, which they did with great success.

In 1763, rebuilding was begun under the direction of the noted Canadian architect Jean Baillarge. After three years and a major fire, it was ready to serve the Catholics of the Lower City. By 1829, Notre Dame had become the parish church of Quebec’s growing Irish Community.

Today Notre Dame is still a parish church with Sunday Mass at 10:30am. If the case full of marriage request forms is any indication, it is also a very popular wedding location.This really made me wonder since the interior of the church is very simple, with plain wooden pews and a simple wooden floor. Aside from the magnificent altar, designed by David Ouellette it can''t compare to the Cathedral for beauty. It must be the cozyness that holds the appeal or the history, I can only guess which.

One of the treasures of Notre Dame is the the miniature ship hanging from the ceiling. This amazing little vessel was first hung here by the Marquis de Tracy who came to Canada in 1664 with the Carignan Regiment. Most of us of French Canadian extraction have one of these brave young soldiers in our background. Even if your not French Canadian it warrants a look.

While you are near the Place Royale take the time to check out the archeological dig. They have uncovered the cellars of some of the very early homes and also check out the mural which gives you the history of Quebec all in one spot on the side of a building. It''s facinating to see 400 years summarized so consisely and there is a sign to tell what each of the tableau means (in case you can''t guess).

Other Things to do.

1. Walk on the Rue St Paul. This is in the lower city. If you are an antique lover, or just someone who enjoys nostalgia, then the Rue St. Paul will seem like heaven. You will be tempted not only by the antique stores but by the excellent selection of restaurants mixed in. My favorite was a coffee shop whose scent perfumed the air. Prices were high but I was there July 4th. I expect that if you choose an off season time, the prices would be considerably lower.

2. Visit Notre Dame de Quebec. The Cathedral has much more to offer than just a visit to Church. It is the home of the Francois de Laval Museum, which documents the life of Quebec’s most famous Bishop. This church has been destroyed several times and always rebuilt bigger and better.

3.Summer Festival- For 10 days in July you can find every imaginable sort of outdoor entertainment. We spent 45 minutes watching a street entertainer send flames of fire shooting from his mouth and lying down on broken glass. He was quite a character. All of the entertainment is provided free of charge but it will be suggested that you make a free will donation directly to the entertainer. Just by walking around the city you will come upon these entertainments.

4. Visit the Place Royal- This is where it all began in Quebec and you can walk around the square, visit the shops, look at the Mural and visit the archeological dig. Take the time to read some of the historic placques around the Place to learn a little about Quebec. For children there is a very nice play area with a ship's mast to climb.

5. Climb Rue de la Montagne to see the oldest burial ground in the city, walk through or over the Prescott Gate and visit Montmerancy Park. Don’t forget to take note of the statue of Bishop de Laval in front of the Post Office. This is also a good place to walk along the Ramparts and truly appreciate the two separate levels of the city. Be prepared for a very steep climb but the view at the top is worth the effort.

6. Visit Holy Trinity Anglican Church. You will notice a chair on the left side of the altar that is reserved for the Queen. Take the Ghost Tour to find out its mystery. The church is said to be modeled after St. Martin in the Fields Church in London. They also have an outdoor market very much like the one at St Martin in the Fields and the quality of the merchandise offered here is excellent (mostly handmade crafts).

7. Take the Ghost Tour I recommended it in my earlier journal. They took to heart all the suggestions I made in my entry and have changed the routing to make it less strenuous and added a rest stop at the top of the hill. There is now no back tracking. We took the tour again and at least half the stops have changed. It was just as much fun on a second visit.

8. Shop. Quebec has its share of gift shops but we always return to Coin du Tresor, 22 Rue Ste. Anne . They have the best selection and it is always changing. The prices are pretty standard. The wax museum is upstairs in this building.

9. Try something made with maple. I suggest soft serve vanilla ice cream with a maple swirl or if you want more maple, they do have maple softserve. Vermont may be more famous for its maple syrup but you will find your share of maple creation in Quebec and with the still favorable exchange rate, maple products are much cheaper in Quebec.