Crafts in Kisumu

Watching the sunset over Lake Victoria is quite an experience. Down on the lakeside there are a lot of fish restaurants and guys trying to get you to go on a boat ride to see the hippos and crocodiles. It's also quite novel to watch everyone driving their cars and matatus into the lake to wash them clean and then drive through the dust back up to the road.

Our main reason for going was to look for soapstone carvings. There's a group of stalls on Jomo Kenyatta Highway near the Hotel Royale. Kisumu has the best variety and choice of soapstone crafts I saw during my stay, and the prices are a lot better than in Nairobi. Soapstone is quarried in nearby Kisii but not many travellers pass through there. There are also lots of good wood carvings, drums and jewellery.

Quick Tips:

Take lots of deet spray and a mosquito net in case your hotel doesn't have them. Kisumu has the worst rate of malaria in the country - mainly because of the lake I suppose. It's also quite humid. There are bird and impala sanctuaries to visit on the lakeside.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking during the day is fine but unless you're in a group I'd take a taxi when it's dark. There are plenty of boda-bodas (bicycle taxis) if your feet get tired and taking one of these is quite a lot of fun although it's a bit dangerous.

There are loads of matatus and buses that go to Kisumu from other parts of Western Kenya (check the ones to Kisii as they'll probably stop on the way). Or share taxis are a slightly more expensive but quicker option.

The resort is right on the lakeside on the opposite side of the bay from the main part of the town. A taxi there should cost about KSh300 (£3/$4.50) and there are also matatus that drop you a little way off from it. There is plenty of space to camp on (close to the lake) for KSh200 per person. There is also a number of bandas which have one large double bed and a shower and toilet. This is one of those quirky little places in East Africa that you always remember. There's also a bar with a pool table, and a craft shop adjacent to it. See dining entry for more details on eating here.

We only spent one night here and there was nothing wrong with it except that it was a bit expensive for our budget. A nice clean double room with a bathroom and fan costs KSh1050 (about £9.50/$14) per night. The guy on the reception desk is very careful not to allow anyone to put more people in the room than there are beds for. So unlike other hotels, you can't save money here by squeezing two people into a single bed. The price includes breakfast (the usual fruit, toast and eggs of your choice) and the breakfast room has a TV. There's also a little cafe attached which serves snack type meals and various drinks at fairly reasonably prices and I'm assured by my friends that the Victoria bakery next door is really good.

The restaurant/bar here serves decent snack food and more substantial meals at fairly reasonable prices. The main reason I like it is that the tables are all in little huts with roll up/down bamboo sides, so you can sit in your hut, eating your dinner, and look over Lake Victoria with Kisumu on the other side of the bay.