The New Grand Tour of Europe: Tallinn

Tallinn is a gorgeous old city that straddles the border of Russia and offers a glimpse into that world, while retaining its own uniquely Estonian flavor. A key city in the Hanseatic League, Tallinn has felt the influences of German, Swedish, Russian and Danish culture. The first sight you will likely see in Old Tallinn is the gates of the city walls, which are largely intact. A walk around them is a must for any visitor. The main gate, the Viru gate, leads you directly into the heart of the Old City, which offers many traditional sights: the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church, The Toompae (castle hill), the Town Hall and square. Of the tourist cites, I most enjoyed the City Museum which provided a history lesson for Tallinn.

However, my most memorable moments in Tallinn were not spent in pursuit of some cultural or historical goal. The best time I had was walking the streets and enjoying the architecture and feel of the city. As Tallinn is fairly small, its no problem to walk everywhere and the atmosphere and people are so inviting I highly recommend just striking out on your own and getting lost.

Quick Tips:

Most visitors from Western Europe and the US do not need a visa for Estonia. You do not need to burden yourself with a large amount of cash or traveler's checks, as ATMs are everywhere and in English. English is the lingua franca of tourism in Estonia and you will find that most signs are in English and that the majority of people can speak at least a little.

Internet cafes are everywhere, so it's very easy to keep in touch with your friends and family. There are international phones readily available as well.

While Summer is the high season for Talllinn, do not be dissuaded from a visit during other times. I visited in the dead of Winter and found a beautiful city that was almost bereft of tourists. The proximity to the Baltic keeps temperatures moderate and visiting during the off-season allows you more room to breathe in the charm of the city.

For visitors who do not have a student discount card, the Tallinn Card (offered by the tourist bureau - see link above) allows free use of public transport, as well as access to the museums and discounts in restaurants and shops.

Best Way To Get Around:

The most practical way to get around Tallinn is on foot. All of the old city can be easily manueverd on foot. However, be aware that the roads are steep and can get slippery in rain. If you have problems with walking in such conditions, it may be advisable to find an organized tour.

The bus station and airport are a bit out from the city. If you are arriving by plane (quite cheap from most of Europe), you will need to take a bus into the city and the buses can be quite full. A taxi ride is not terribly expensive and to be recommended. Moving on from Tallinn is quite easy: trains and buses connect the city with St. Petersburg, Moscow, and all the capitals of Eastern and Western Europe.

Vana Tom is the biggest and most well-known hostel in Tallinn. If you arrive in the off-season and are looking for company, you'd do well to book here as the majority of travlers end up here. The location is in the old city near the Town Hall and withing walking distance of most of the sites of Tallinn. There are several popular discos and night spots on the same street.

Accommodations are quite nice and far above the typical Eastern European hostel. Dorm rooms (six to eight bunks) and private rooms are available. The dorms are segregated by gender. The hot water is readily on tap and there is a kitchen for those who self-cater. The only downside is that Vana Tom (used to be the Barn) is a bit highly-priced for a youth hostel. However, it is far cheaper than any B&B or low-end hotel in the old city and does offer discounts for HI members and Peace Corps.

If you're looking for a cheap, clean place to stay and proximity to sites and nightlife is your main goal, this is where to stay. The average guest here is in their 20s, so it may not be appropriate for those who want to bed-down early. Also, the street noise can be a bit much as the hostel is below a popular strip club! Directly next door is a very nice Chinese restaurant that I can highly recommend.

Imagine finding a truly unique Indian restaurant in the heart of Old Tallinn? Look no further than Elevant, a restaurant where the hoi polloi and tourists meet to share a remarkable meal in great surroundings. Elevant serves the traditional Indian fare such as masala and vindaloo, along with some Middle Eastern offerings (kebabs) and unique menu items like Octopus and Moose. The menu at Elevant is massive, perhaps the largest I have ever seen, and includes a copious selection of bar drinks and wine to accompany your meal. Vegetarians will be happy to see many items on the menu which will meet their needs. I sampled the Chicken Tikka Masala and found it quite satisfactory. Part of Elevant's appeal is its decor, which is inspired by tribal elements from throughout the world and enhanced by an unusual global soundtrack. At Elevant, you can enjoy a supberb meal set amidst rich tapestries, unique candleabras and freshly-oiled wooden floors. The surroundings accentuate and complete the sensuous feel of the dining experience. The service at Elevant is attentive, without being smothering. People come here to enjoy their evening and there is no rush to get out the door when the meal ends. Elevant is very popular in Tallinn, so I would recommend booking ahead or arriving early. It seems to attract a number of well-heeled locals as well as tourists. Prices are higher than in some other local restaurants, but are not absurd by Western standards.

St. Nicholas church has one of the most interesting facades in Tallinn and is a must-see site for visitors to the city. From my perspective, it almost look haunted (check my picture) on the day I was there. Dedicated to the patron saint of sailors, the church now houses a museum of rare medieval art, including some of the best in all of Estonia. Concerts are also held here throughout the year. St. Nicholas has undergone a number of renovations throughout its 700 year lifespan. You will notice a variety of architectural styles reflected. The most recent renovation was post-WW II when the church suffered during bombing raids. The church museum is open daily and participates in the Tallinn Card discount program, as well as offering student discounts.

This was my favorite bar in all of Tallinn, and I did an extensive survey. The reason I liked it was because it was just so surreal--an Egyptian themed bar in the middle of Estonia. Very, very strange. But cool! Plus, they had sheesha. I hadn't had sheesha in a loooong time!

We stumbled onto this by accident on my last night in Tallinn, lured in by the pyramids in the sign. The decor is pure Egyptian kitsch and the drinks are a bit overpriced, but this bar was one of the few that wasn't full of tourists. The music was typical European techno and the crowd seemed to be young, professional Estonians out for the night.

One of the Egyptian gimmicks at Mumia is the availibility of Nargileh or Sheesha smoking from large hookahs. Being a sheesha fiend, I had to order some for my table! The reaction from the Estonian clientele was priceless and I very quickly realized that most people had not seen the hookahs in actual use. I believe we started a trend, as a few tables followed our lead and soon the whole bar was smoking apple-flavored tobacco and a good time was had by all.

This is a large, functioning Russian Orthodox Cathedral from the 1900's. It's an art noveau masterpiece designed by Mikhail Preobrzhensky during a time when Russia ruled the Baltics. The cathedral is located in the upper Old Town by the Estonian Parliment building. The domed spires, typical of the Russian Orthodox style, are visible from much of the old city. There is a large Russian population in Tallinn and this their center for worship.

The cathedral is part gift shop, part house of worship. Depending on when you visit, you may find yourself mobbed with tour groups or alone with a group of worshippers. The interior is quite impressive, but make sure to take the time to walk around the outside and enjoy the architecture - especially if you won't be going on to Russia itself. As this is an active cathedral, please be respectful. Dress appropriately and be conscious of your voice and manners.

It's a bar dedicated to that great Estonian, er, ENGLISH band Depeche Mode. No idea how this bar ended up in Tallinn, but I had to see for myself what it was about. As would be expected, there is a heavy emphasis on Depeche Mode music, memorabilia, and decor. The TVs play Depeche Mode videos and the crowd seems to love it. There are pictures of the band visiting the bar, so they are apparently aware of its existence.

For fans of the band, this is a must see. For others, it's not a bad place to kick back with a beer. The drinks are reasonably priced and the snacks were tasty. The clientele seems to be a mix of curious tourists, dedicated fans, and locals who enjoy the ambience. It's located in a cellar in the old town and is very convienent to many other night-life spots.