Cordoba's Endless Majesty

La Mezquite is certainly not to be missed during any trip to Cordoba! Its mighty walls, fine arches, and delicate ornamentation are incredibly impressive from any school of thought. The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos is also a must see, though I think it is better appreciated with a background on its history. So, study up my friends!

Quick Tips:

Many travel books warn against the many pickpockets hanging out near major sights. It is always a good idea to wear a money belt and be alert near crowds. I found, however, the most common attempts were made by people reading palms on the streets of Cordoba. Even if you are into this sort of thing, I strongly suggest you offer a polite, "No, gracias," and keep on walking.

Best Way To Get Around:

Cordoba is a great city easily navigated on foot, which is what I always suggest. If you are pressed for time, there are plenty of taxis available, but they tend to be a bit more spread out. You may have to walk a short while before finding a post. The train service is phenominal, especially coming in from Sevilla or Madrid. If you are trying to come in from another area check the availability well in advance. There may only be one trip made daily.

Taberna Pepe de la Juderia is a delightful little cafe located in Cordoba's old Jewish Quarter not far from Mezquita. If sunny al fresco dining is your style, you'll be quite pleased with this cafe's wonderful sidewalk corner location. It's prime for "people watching". The inside of the restaurant is decorated like a diners' Hall-of-Fame. Photos and memorabilia from bullfighters and other famous patrons line the walls.

It is here that I had the first real sandwich of my life. Not that I haven't eaten a sandwich before, mind you, but never anything as noteworthy as what was on my plate in this cafe! The softest bread, tastiest olive oil and sweetest Iberian ham put together in a seemingly ordinary fashion was proven a work of art in just one bite.

The service, like in all Andalucia, was wonderful and amazing. The day that I ate at this cafe was unseasonably hot -- almost miserable. The waiters were really sweating up a storm as they ran in and out of the taberna filling orders, busing tables and fetching drinks. They did it all without dropping dead from the heat AND with a GENUINE smile intact. The proprietor is a very nice older gentleman whom the regulars call Pepe, though I think it is only a nickname. He prides himself on his delectible flamenquin (fried rolls filled with sweet Iberian meats) -- a house specialty. Do make a point to try some!

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos (Palace of the Christian Kings) is quite a fitting name for this royal medieval fortress. Built in 1328 under the rule of King Alfonso XI, it later became a "headquarters" for the Catholic monarchs during their quest to capture Granada in the late 1400s. From here, Ferdinand and Isabella planned the demise of Boabdil, the last Moorish ruler in Spain and made it so in the year of 1492.

By the mid-1500s, the Alcazar was used by the Spanish Inquisition and was then later turned into a prison. This may explain why so much of the palace is not as well preserved as other castles and fortresses in Spain. The gardens, however, are a much different story. They are just magnificient! In one particular area of a very formal hedge garden were life-sized statues of Spain's Christian Kings. These wonderful likenesses lead all the way down the garden to a monument of the favorites. It was Ferdinand and Isabella giving charge to Christopher Columbus to set sail with his ships.

Cordoba is an excellent city for a wide range of shopping opportunities. There are plenty of the expected souvenir shops, but most carry a fine range of handicrafts as well. I did most of my shopping in Juderia, Cordoba's old Jewish Quarter, where a mix of souvenir markets and specialty stores made for oodles of fun. Walking through those narrow cobblestoned streets, I got a sense that not very much had changed in this area since the medieval times.

Many shops within this area of the city double as workshops where their merchandise is produced. Most of the gorgeous silver filigree jewelry Andalucia is so famous for is crafted right here in Cordoba. This is also an excellent place to buy embossed leather goods and traditional flat-topped "cordobes" hats. Prices on these goods are a great deal less than anywhere else in Spain.

Another proud heritage craft in Cordoba is the making of acoustic guitars. These are by far the finest quality in the world! Many of these beautiful instruments find themselves in the hands of famous musicians around the globe.

Some souvenir shops are also good for a hearty laugh. If you keep your eyes upon the shelves and tables, everything will seem pretty typical. If you look down to the stuff on the floor, however, you may find a few surprises -- baskets of little naked butts and more baskets of, ahem, a certain male appendage fashioned into (what else?) keychains! OHHHH MYYYYYY!!!

In Spanish culture, the patio plays a major role in family and social life. Typical Spanish homes are U-shaped and the patios are located in the center of the home. The bedrooms and living room are on the first floor. Traditional patio features include a well or fountain, delicate arches, iron gates, pots full of flowers and gorgeous tilework. It is not uncommon to find a tiled portrait of a saint somewhere along the whitewashed walls. The rest of the patio's charm comes from the residents. Many Spaniards choose to decorate with other elements like classical statues and orange trees.

The residents of Cordoba take much pride in their patio gardens and enjoy showing them off. Photographs are taken as high compliments. During the month of May most patios are opened to the public for the "Festival de los Patios" and contest. Everyone basically goes "patio-hopping" to admire the gardens and enjoy spontaneous outbursts of flamenco song and dance. Whoever has the most beautifully decorated patio wins a nice prize!

I strongly recommend having a look at these beautiful patios any time of year, but especially if traveling in May. Juderia is a wonderful place to see them, but there are other locations around the city as well. I've been told that the San Basillo neighborhood west of Mezquita is also a fine place to have a look.

The building of La Mezquite, Cordoba's grand mosque-turned-cathedral, was begun in the year of 785. Under the rule of Abd al Rahman I, Andalucia's first Moorish king, the original mosque was deemed complete by the year 787. It continued, however, to be improved over the centuries with such additions as an elaborate Mihrab or prayer niche and a royal enclosure for the caliphs.

Inside of this awesome structure is a forest of over 850 columns which were "recycled" from abandoned Roman and Visigothic temples. This building was quite literally pieced together like a quilt! Atop these ancient columns rest two layers of gigantic candycane-striped arches which make for a glorious visual effect.

La Mezquite is sometimes refered to as the upside-down building because the majority of its weight is on the top. In the 16th century, after the expulsion of the Moors, many of the central arches and supports were torn out. This was done to make room for a new cathedral. It was, of course, a major weakening of the structure which (from a technical standpoint) should have collapsed.

After 750 years of being in operation as a cathedral, all of Spain still refers to it as La Mezquite or even Mezquita. Perhaps this is done out of a sheer admiration for the Moors who designed such an engineering marvel: A building that shouldn't be able to stand at all -- yet does so solidly.