Copenhagen – City of Fun, Freedom and Shopping

We were two days in Copenhagen prior to a Baltic cruise. At usual, I was taken by surprise by the blend of styles. The centre is old with buildings mostly four floors high. Part of the design such as canal frontages is based on Amsterdam. The green copper domes and the golden spires hint at something more Eastern. Most of the statues are bronze, which have also turned green -- including the Little Mermaid. Like many cities build on a flat landscape, bicycles are everywhere.

It is a liberal city. Christianity Freetown whose motto could be said to be Hash not Dope survives here. Sex shops are common. The people have changed over the centuries from being marauding Viking hordes to among the most cheerful and friendly anyway.

Being only a short time there I had to select what to see carefully. Tivoli was a must and a good place to eat. Christiania Freetown might not be everybody’s choice but it is a great social experiment and the street art is really something. Stroget is an internationally famous street and a great shopping area then there are the castles, fountains and little mermaid.

Quick Tips:

We had perfect weather but in my research before going I found that the weather can be very changeable and the Danes prepare for anything.

I purchased an "Insight Pocket Guide" before going which I found very useful. It contains various suggested walking routes for taking in the main sites but a visit to the tourist office across from the train station would supply similar information.

Although we didn’t need it, you can purchase a Copenhagen Card from the tourist. Office. This offers unlimited travel on buses and trains in the city as well as free admission to 60 local sights and museums and discounts to other sights.

The currency is the kroner, which can be obtained from the numerous cash dispensers. Tips and service charges are, in principle included in the prices. Visa and MasterCard are accepted in most stores and restaurants.

Best Way To Get Around:

We simply walked for there were enough to see in the city centre without any other form of travel. Because of the numerous one-way streets cars can be a nuisance and are better parked and left. Car hire is also expensive.

On the second day we went on a canal cruise. It is the cheapest form of tour and just that bit different. One interesting titbits of information I picked up from the guide was the Danes captured some Swedish Prisoners of War and invited them to dig out the Nyhavn Canal for them.

Bicycles are popular. Bikes can be borrowed from special bike racks around the city – all that is required is a 20kg deposit. Return the bike to any rack and you get your money back. Taxis are plentiful but are expensive.

Trains run around the city every few minutes and if trains aren’t available there are buses. Travel is easy but walking will get you to most places.

Prior to a Baltic Cruise on the Regal Princess we stayed in the Radisson SAS Scandinavia Hotel. It was chosen by the cruise operators probably because it can handle shiploads of people and also because we had been flown out by SAS. It is the largest Redisson hotel in Denmark and is outstanding in that is towers upwards of 26 floors while the rest of Copenhagan only reaches around four – totally out of character with the rest of the city.

The hotel boasts the international Casino Copenhagen - off the lobby. A fitness gym and a swimming pool are also on offer. About ten minutes walk from the hotel reaches the city centre and Tivoli Gardens. A short walk in the other direction leads to a canal path leading directly to Christiania Freetown.

Check in was swift and painless. An express elevator shot us up to the 19th floor and wonder of wonders our electronic key worked first time and every time. Our cases arrived soon after us. The spacious room was painted in a light blue colour and was clean and well presented. A glance at the literature in the room decided us immediately that we would eat elsewhere. The example menu displayed prices that were daylight robbery. The mini bar we also left alone.

For some reason the room had a trouser press but no ironing board or iron. A hair drier was present but no facilities to make tea or coffee. Presumably we were being forced to pay for refreshments down in the spacious lobby – contains comfortable seating. The bed was large and comfortable. Unfortunately the noise from the three-lane highway below our window down which the Danes drove like maniacs didn’t enable a lie in. The room had a recliner chair and a telephone with voice mail. Also present was a dressing table cum desk. The bathroom had a shower over a bath, a wash hand basin and a toilet.

The view from our bedroom took in Our Saviour’s Kirke with its Spiral steeple and the harbour. Unfortunately the window was so dirty that I had to poke my camera out through the chink represented by the window opening and take a photo. The TV appeared to offer no programs unless we paid for them. A data port was available for those that had a lap top computer.

Breakfast was of the Continental variety. A wide choice of juices, cereals, pastries, bread, cold meats as well as cooked items were on offer. No problems here.

Over all we found the hotel soulless. A fellow cruise member summed up the hotel as not being up to the standard that you would expect as part of a P.O Princess Cruise.

'Strøget', is the oldest pedestrian street in the world, and one of the more famous. Since 1962 when it became pedestrian only, the idea spread like wildfire across the world. In truth it consists of five streets. The five streets run for one mile over cobbled squares and small junctions. Its meandering length contains the best shopping area in Copenhagen.

Strøget forms the spine of the city. At one end of Strøget is the exclusive square, Kongens Nytorv, with the Royal Theatre, the Magasin Department Store and the city's prestigious Hotel d'Angleterre. At the other end is the large bustling Rådhuspladsen, where the huge City Hall acts as a monumental landmark.

We entered from the Rådhuspladsen . The first 250 metres covered the area where the original hamlet of Havn stood - also known as Kobenhavn. Strøget immediately took on its character – shops galore with the hustle and bustle of people from all walks of life. Buskers sang and at the many pavement cafés local street musicians were busy.

Soon we came to Gammeltorv and Nytorv (old and new square), the first open space. In the centre of Gammeltorv stands Karitasbrøden (well of charity), which has been elevated into a glorious fountain. Further on at Amagertorv we found the Stork fountain and some of the best but most expensive shops in the city. Down towards the right stood Christiansborg (parliament building).

Turning left two blocks further on we entered a passage called Pistolstraede - resembles a pistol. A former slum area it is now downright chic. We had our lunch at the bakery Konditoriet there. At the square where the pistol handle starts we followed a passage leading out into Grønnegade. Here we found a shop selling copies of jewellery made during the Bronze, Iron and Viking ages.

At the end of Strøget, Kongens Nytorv, we came to the area referred to in the guide as the 'Royal' end - apparently because of its nearness to the Royal Palace and because the shops in the area contain exclusive goods. The areas of Østergade and Amagertorv form one of the most attractive shopping areas in Scandinavia. The shops and boutiques specialise in top quality goods from all over the world.

Besides the special shops, the cities three department stores, Illum, Magasin, and Daells Varehus cater to all needs. One of the larger stores, Illum Bolighus, is the centre for the latest Scandinavian designs. It maintains high quality in furniture, textiles, and handicraft products. Other shops with an international reputation for excellent quality and design are those that specialise in furs.

The key to Danish design is its simplicity, with a high standard of quality, craftsmanship and elegance. In the technical area of hi-fi-, radio and TV, Danish designs have achieved worldwide recognition. Copenhagen is also famous for its porcelain, especially for hand painted Christmas plates and the luxurious Flora Danica dinner service.

On arriving in Copenhagen we headed straight for Tivoli Gardens and paid the 65kr entrance fee. The word 'Gardens' conjure up images of flowers, ponds and grass but Tivoli Gardens is an all-embracing amusement park. It originated in 1843 when a converted fort became an oriental summer amusement park. The idea of fantasyland didn't originate with Walt Disney. He developed the idea after visiting Tivoli Gardens. The wheel has turned full circle and many now complain of what they describe as the 'Disneyfication' of Tivoli.

The Garden in the city centre is the main attraction in Copenhagen. It has 32 restaurants with some dating back to the original garden and a slightly smaller number of bars and coffee rooms. We ate in a Chinese restaurant. Prices were reasonable for a Capital city and cheaper than in our hotel.

I am told that politicians and celebrities often meet over a bite of freshly peeled fjord shrimp at Grøften (the Ditch). Others prefer mugs of beer and the sing along atmosphere of Færgekrogen or the taste of mead and the Viking spirit of Valhalla. Gourmets head for the gastronomic delights of Divan 2, La Crevette, Fregatten Sct Georg, Bagatellen and Balkonen.

In strolling around it seemed that summer blooms and coloured light bulbs were everywhere. The light bulbs decorate all the buildings to create a fantasy world after dark that blots out the real world. Unfortunately we were not able to see Tivoli lit up but even so we still entered a fantasy world. A Chinese pagoda stood cheek and jowl with a golden tower, splendid fountains, marvellous sculptures, bandstands, theatres, a dragon boat lake with exotic fish, exotic looking restaurants and all the fun fare gadgets imaginable including a roller coaster.

Tivoli has something for everyone – whether pure fun and entertainment, an artistic event or first-class wining and dining. It appeals to families with small children and the young by hosting Friday rock concerts and machines like turbo-drop. The turbo-drop a seated version of bungee jumping produces screams, laughter and a never-ending queue. From 63-metres high victims plummet earthward at 40 m.p.h. and endure body pressures of 1.5 times the force of gravity.

Performances of artistic events take place around the concert hall, home of Tivoli's Symphony Orchestra, with the world's top classical musicians and ballet dancers appearing. Alternative artists appear at the Lawn, which host daily artiste performances and Friday Concerts, offering audiences the best of Danish rock (and pop music) as well as international stars.

Glassalen (the Glass Room) is the home of Tivoli's Review Theatre. Another charming feature is Tivoli's Pantomime Theatre. Then there's Tivoli's Big Band and the hit parade concerts taking place in the small Promenade and Harmony Pavillions, not to mention the Tivoli Garden parades and the midnight firework displays held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The Julemarkedet (the Christmas Market) alone attracts almost a million winter-clad guests.

A word of warning - the entertainment is not cheap so bring plenty of cash.

A short distance from our hotel down a canal track exists Christania Freetown. Although on the alternative tourist route its story is full of human interest so along we went.

Christania Freetown resides behind the grim shell of the abandoned military barrack in Badsmandsstraedes kaserne. The area has been colourfully festooned with murals on walls, hoardings and anything available. A church under renovated just outside the area also had its hoardings covered with murals. The community’s ideal is love, peace and brotherhood and a banner proclaimed 'Hash not Dope' defined the limits to personal freedom.

We entered through an entrance with CHRISTIANIA engraved in large letters into the archway. The guard on duty decided we were harmless and let us through. Conducted tours leave from this gate daily at 3pm - a facility we were too early to use. A sign inside said 'No photos' – my camera disappeared into its case.

Inside a state of order prevailed. There were many cafes running and everything operated smoothly. Some of the residents had built imaginative homes using skilled craftsmanship. One building contained examples of their art and another the history of the community. The number of children had grown so high that parents and activists had built a fourth institution for them - the first new public building in Christiania. The ecological house for children was ecologically advanced with sunlight collector and humus-toilet.

Christian Freetown began in 1970 with people from all sections of society merging to create an alternative life based on communal living and freedom. Christiania agreed to pay for the use of water and electricity, and in return receives political acceptance as a 'social experiment'. In a mock NATO invasion the community showed it could govern itself. By 1975 Christiania had organized a communal bathhouse, a nursery and a kindergarten, garbage collection and recycling, as well as communal shops and factories.

"Rockmaskinen" (The Rock Machine) in Fredens Ark (the Ark of Peace) became in 1978 the home of the growing punk scene. Around the Freetown, many cabarets and shows play. The Opera has Russian rock on the programme, the Youth-club has techno, the Rock Machine has experimental theatre and there is cabaret and theatre in the Gay House. Thousands visit the Strictly Underground concerts of the Danish Hip-Hop scene of music, dance and graffiti in the Grey Hall and there are football championships in the Meadow of Peace. The culture lives on strongly. Curious tourists explore the area.

A visit gives much to reflect on. Here where a more liberal attitude has been taken to alternative life styles there seems to be fewer health problems, better social responsibility and a wiliness to work than in cultures where authority tries to dictate the living style of others. Art forms have been stimulated and abound everywhere on the site. There is much to be learned from Christian Freetown. It points to the need for offering responsibility and more personal freedom rather than a Big Brother approach.