The Jewel of Granada

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The bread, olives, and service, of course, are phenomenal (as it is all over Andalucia). Therefore, it is with deep regret that I must say the meal I had here was a study in culinary disappointment. To keep it short (and to keep from sounding terribly mean), the food DID seem fresh, but was very dry and the flavors did not "pop" at all. I would like to think that I just hit them on a bad day, but the place was virtually empty.

The Alhambra indeed started out as the home and fortress of Moorish royalty. It then became a Mosque and was later santified for use as a cathedral. Both Jewish and Muslim peoples worked together to build the original palace which included many gifts of friendship from neighboring Jewish families. At the time, both cultures populated the area in peaceful, neighborly fashion.

There is some interesting folklore surrounding the fountain in the king's master bedroom chambers. It is said that a member of a very wealthy, influential Jewish family and a member of the king's family fell in love. This angered the king terribly as he did not know who the lovers were, hence, there was no way to discourage them. As a solution, the king invited the entire family to his palace for a dinner banquet. Into his royal bedroom fountain is where he had them all decapitated to eliminate the threat of a cross-cultural relationship in his family. This legend, although deemed untrue, is said to have sparked the war and hatred between the two cultures worldwide. "But this is untrue!" my guide resounded and I'd have to agree since a fountain of very Jewish influence remains the focal point of the living quarters. Besides that, the Muslims and Jews have been in conflict far longer than the existance of the Alhambra!

The fountain found in the living quarters of the palace was a gift to the king by some of his best friends. This Jewish family knew how very important flowing water is in Muslim decoration and design. Thus, a fine fountain basin resting on the backs of twelve lions was presented to the king. The twelve lions represent the twelve tribes of Israel. It was the king's most favorite present and he displayed it where he would see it most often--the center of his living quarters. This "wing" is now known as The Chamber of Lions.

Do not miss this spectacular three hour tour! Be sure to take lots and lots of photos so you can sort and preserve all the wonderful details.

Granada is an excellent place to buy colorful jarapas (rag rugs), pretty basketware, fragrant spices, and beautifully inlaid wooded boxes. Some of the places selling these boxes are also workshops where you can watch the ancient art of marquetry in progress.

Of course, there are also plenty of shops that deal in modern goods like high fashion and ski gear. If you, like so many travelers, are only visiting for a day trip to the Alhambra, there is a great little shop on the hill next door. It doesn't have the feel of a street market or workshop, but inside is a wide range of excellent souvenirs!

A note on shopping in Andalucia: if you find something you really like, buy it! Shop owners are kind and do not inflate their prices no matter their store location. The only places it pays to shop around are the street markets where haggling is practically encouraged!

The ski season runs from December to June and boasts a popular ski resort near the two highest peaks. In summer and fall, hiking season is in full swing. As with most of the world's great natural wonders, the Sierra Nevada's majestic beauty can also have an ugly side. Though there are several safety shelters on these mountains, visitors are implored to take such precautions as bringing tents, extra food and water, and emergency equipment. Of course, one of the best ways to ensure your safety is to go with an experienced group and let others know the trail you plan to take!

The neighborhood of Albaicin is nestled against the hillside opposite from the Alhambra Palace. It is from here that Granada gets most of its charm. Its angular maze of rooftops is impressive at any time of day, but the view is especially pleasing in late afternoon.

Sacromonte rests above the Albaicin area with a Benedictine monastary seated at the very top. This "gypsy-hill", as the locals call it, was a favorite spot for travelers like Washington Irving. He would often frequent the gypsy cave dwellings to enjoy their tradition of flamenco dance.

Back at the foot of the Albaicin and just down the road from the Alhambra stands the Convento de Santa Catalina which was founded in 1521. If you're in the mood for something sweet, this is the place to be! The check-out counter may strike you a bit odd, though. Since the nuns' vows forbid them to see anyone in the outside world, all business is done through a small turning "window". Place your money on the tray of this unique "lazy-susan" and give it a spin. In a few moments, the nuns will place a bag of their delicious confections on the tray and send it back for you. This is just one of the many ways to absorb the off-beat charm and culture this great city has to offer.

Granada winters are particularly cold and often rainy. Shops are always stocked with a wide range of stylish winter clothes including ski gear for the nearby Sierra Nevada. If you're traveling in winter, bundle up and bring an umbrella!