To go or Not to go

The highlight of my three-week tour of Burma was the people. Every street that I walked down, every teahouse that I entered, every hotel that I stayed, and even most strangers offered me kindness and openness to your culture. I attended a cultural dance in the capital, sat eating dinner with families, and celebrated the full moon with them. The land has not been touched by western hands so you will not come upon a 7-11 on the corner or see a giant billboard for Pepsi. Tourists are rare and my white skin and blonde hair seperated me from the locals. The hard decision for me was whether or not to visit this country. I feel blessed by the people that I met and the travels that I have seen, but I carry my memories with a heavy heart. I knew that enter the country would be giving money to the government and their military government doesn't deserve any money. The leaders are a corrupt bunch of selfish power hungry men that care more for money then their people. The locals would tell me stories of the military going into villages and shoting whomever they wanted.

Quick Tips:

When tourists enter this beloved land they have to exchange for FEC, which is money going into hands of the military leaders. If you can try to convince the people at the exchange booth that you are only going to be in the country for a short while and bribe them with . Sometimes they will then look the other way and only make you exchange . That way you can still spend more money in the country, but you know that the people are getting some of the money.

As a tourist, you will think that you are free to do what you want. But I found out that tourists are only allowed in a certain area of the country and they are preventing from seeing a large section of the country. The main tourist path is from Yangon to Mandalay to Bagan and then back. If you can venture off the path and see some of the villages and smaller towns. The locals will welcome you with a "Hey you!" and open their homes with smiles.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking through Yangon is easy and cheap. Plus there are so many people on the streets you can see the locals, taste the food, and pick up some cheap odds and ends. It is pretty easy to learn your way around and if you get lost you will be able to find someone that can help you. Buses are overcrowded and hard to figure out what one to take because you won't find english anywhere. Ask people at your hotel and they will draw you a small map and help with directions. I was lucky and had two monks that adopted me the first day. They showed me a tour of the Pagoda. Don't take trains. Instead use the local buses or if you have money then take the boat to Mandalay.

These rooms were cheap with a very friendly staff and awesome view. The view is not from your room, but you can wake up in the morning to their complimentary white bread with instant coffee and see the beautiful pagoda and city sprawled out. I paid for a private room with my own bath and air-conditioning. It is hot and the evenings are hot. It was nice to have the air-conditioning and it wasn't that much more. By reading my journal, you know that I travel on a budget and am not staying in luxury hotels. This is the right place for the backpacker who wants a bed to sleep in and a staff that will help you wander the street. I like the guest house because it was in a prime local and I could wake up in the morning and walk to where ever I needed to go. Part of the joy of traveling in meeting the locals and walking through the streets watching the natives awake into their morning rituals.

So the price was right, the staff is very friendly, you can pay by FEC, and after seeing the public restroom and showers I am glad that I got my own bath. The room is basic with a bed and little room for much more. There is one sheet on the bed and a pillow. I had to reach up to switch the air-con because I realize that the staff at set it on low to save money. :)

Oh, I did have one fellow traveler that said that his bathroom flooded the floor in his room and drenched his suitcase. So keep your pack on your bed and watch the water flow.

This restaurant is basic for the food is fast, cheap, and good. But don't expect a fancy dining experience because I am a traveler on a budget. Plus part of the joys of traveling is eating with the locals. My problem is that my choice of cuisine is slightly limited because I am a vegetarian. Therefore I tried some of the local dishes of Myanmar but found that many of them contain meat. The local food is similar to Thai with many curries and many chilies. (They like their food HOT!) As I walked along the streets, I would be curious about many dishes and would try some as along as I could see them make it and see what goes into the dish. Eating on the streets is questionable because you really don't know how sanitary the preparation is or how long the food has been sitting out.

One of the managers at the guesthouse that I was staying at recommended this restaurant. He said that the food was good and with Indian food you are almost guaranteed vegetarian meals. It was only a couple of blocks from the guesthouse and I found myself surrounded my locals. Luckily for me, the menu was in English and the food was good.

My one problem with the place was the young waiters that serve you. These young men are children and working hard. If you take a look into the kitchen you will also see that chefs are young boys. The manager sits behind a booth and oversees the restaurant while yelling at the waiters. I felt sorry for these hardworking boys. They looked like they should be in school, but are probably working for the money to feed themselves and their families.

Part of the beauty of Myanmar is that its many historical sites are preserved. The Shwedagon Pagoda is a must see on any travel agenda. Now I was traveling on a budget and therefore wanted to arrive at the Pagoda the same way all the locals do. The problem was that I learned the first day of arrival was that I stuck out like a sore thumb. Everywhere that I went people would call out greetings or stare or try to talk to you, etc. I consulted the managers at the inn that I was staying at and was told where to go and what bus to take. I wanted the bus number three but I have to tell you that their 3's are not 3's and they look much like 6's but with a little line going to opposite direction. (I know that doesn't make much sense. :) So anyway, I was adopted by two monks that escorted me to the Shwedagon Pagoda. They got me on the right bus, showed me the right fare, and pounded on the roof of the bus at the right time (the signal for the bus to stop) .

*Small hint* If you don't want to pay for the foreigner fee, that get to the Pagoda early in the morning and make sure to leave before the guides start at 8am.

The foreigners fee is $5 and they might want charge you for a camera, so keep it in your bag while paying for your ticket. :) It is custom to take off your shoes and socks before walking up the steps and while visiting the pagoda. The scenery is beuatiful and the pagoda is huge. Layered with gold along with beautiful tiles and breathtaking statues. Follow the crowds of worshipers and make sure to notice which direction they are walking in.

The story is the pagoda was built on Singuttara Hill on top of another pagoda. The are is believed to be sacred because it holds the relics of three past Buddhas. Besides feeling the history behind this enormious structure one is amazed by the jewels and mass gold that covers the pagoda. The lower stupa is plated with 8,688 solid gold bars, an upper part with another 13,153. The tip of the stupa, far too high for the human eye to discern in any detail, is set with 5448 diamonds, 2317 rubies, saphires, and other gems, 1065 golden bells, and at the very top, a single 76-carat daimond.

Now, everyone that you talk to in Yangon will ask you if you have seen the Shwedagon Pagoda and I will tell you that you can't leave the city without circling the sacred site. If you get lost, ask around and you will be able to find someone that can point you in the direction of the pagoda.

Seeing the local celebration of the Full Moon was a highlight of my trip. It also brought a large challenge to my trip. I had made plane reservations for my journey through Southeast Asia, but I figured that I had a guide book and would find places to stay. The problem was that I arrived in Yangon a couple of days before the Full Moon celebration and didn't even think about the fact that it was the locals vacation time when they went home to see their families. The buses were full, the trains were full, and all that was open was an expensive tourist boat to Mandalay. So, my decision was made for me and a spent a little under a week in Yangon.

Good things come to those who wait. So I waited and did get the opportunity to celebrate the full moon in the city. There was a celebration in every pagoda throughout the streets. As the sun started to set, people were decorating doorways, lighting candles at the local shops, and decorating sidewalks with lit candles. I knew that thousands people would be heading to the Shwedogan pagoda so I decided to head to a smaller celebration. I walked along the streets with many other people as they flocked to the pagodas. Burmese carried offerings of food, flowers, and many candles. I found a pagoda by the water a short walk from the Strand Hotel. (the place to stay if you have the money, I mean lots of money) The people welcomed me and a honored the Buddha and shared my prayers. I made an offering and took many photos as the sunset. As soon as the sky was dark, they started lighting the candles that were lined up on the ground and saying something. I couldn't tell you what the candles said but I can tell you that it was beautiful.

The celebrations lasted all night long. I didn't last so long, but I could hear the fireworks going off all night long. :)