Pittsburg Downtown: History and Holidays

Quiet, colorful tile stations greet us in the cleanest lightrail subway in America with bus schedules, artwork, and music of the Pittsburgh Symphony. Our stop is Steel Plaza, Wood Street, or Gateway Center for Marriott, Westin, or Hilton respectively. From any of these, we can walk or ride to all theaters, galleries, shopping, historic attractions, colleges, restaurants, and holiday festivities downtown. Weekends in the Triangle, we forget about attractions in Oakland, Southside, or Northside, although they, too, have their charms, and enjoy "Renaissance City" center with small-town friendly atmosphere and big-city infrastructure and planning.

The plan is to make downtown too enticing to leave after five, so this city offers "Three Rivers" arts festival and Regatta, state-of-the-art theaters, outdoor jazz, free summer Symphony at Point State Park, gala holiday events, free transportation center zone, beautiful fountains and plazas, exciting tours, major Civic Center events, and endowments for the arts that place Pittsburgh on world-class cultural maps. Dozens of weekends, we found new additions to culture, preservation, infrastructure. The legacy of American "aristocracy" reminds us of Pittsburgh’s pre-eminence in business and industry with Golden Era relics of Italian architecture and Viennese design in landmark hotels, theaters, churches, and public buildings. "Renaissance City" is still in the making, so reminders of yesteryear are interspersed with hints of tomorrow.

"Golden Triangle," land coveted by native Americans, French, and English as the "point" from which to control the country, includes Point State Park and Hilton Towers, site of forts Duquesne and Pitt and the King’s 18th-Century deer park and garden, now premiere summer holiday destination with the Symphony’s summer stage, bike and walking paths, and museum of the French and Indian War. A relaxed, casual resort atmosphere prevails at the "shore," where the Monongahela meets the Allegheny to form the Ohio, a place for blankets on the sunny lawn or under the stars with one of the world's finest symphonies.

Up Liberty Avenue one minute is the "T" and across from it PPG Plaza and Market Square, sites of lesser functions with impromptu stage and First Night’s ice rink. Right onto Fifth Avenue are cozy, shaded streets with department stores and Kaufmann's corner clock, reminiscent of a time when "downtown" was familiar as "porch swing." Back to Liberty and left at Sixth-Eighth, the theater district offers musicals, broadway, and major stage, plus the Symphony and guest performers at landmark Heinz Hall (with tours). A "cultural shuttle" is free. I find performance schedules at www.visitpittsburgh.com or http://www.pitt.edu/~pittarts/. Benedum Center, Byham Theater, and the Harris have interesting histories as well as acclaimed productions, plus film events at the Harris. The new O’Reilly (the "Public") is a marvel of engineering and model for public theaters. There are also free jazz at Katz Plaza, the River City Brass Band, several classical, jazz, baroque, and dance ensembles, a plethora of theater companies, and the list goes on. Several colleges and churches, too, offer music, dance, drama, and ethnic events listed on entertainment calendars. Duquesne University Tamburitzans preserve the folk history of Eastern Europe with costumed dance and authentic music, and most ethnic groups are represented in celebrations that never stop. This "grass-roots" regional, dedicated arts community has the world watching their moves and taking cues.

Quick Tips:

We found shopping at Kaufmann’s calming. It’s quiet inside with space! Edgar G. Kaufmann's store defines his model shop, reminiscent of an era when a "Merchant Prince" could afford Frank Lloyd Wright to build Fallingwaters! More chic shopping is in skyscraper "centers," Mellon, Oxford, PPG, USX, and others with upscale restaurants. We were delighted at Asiago, Oxford Center, by our table on the glass wall overlooking the atrium--and by creme brule! This expensive restaurant is in Pittsburgh Entertainment Book, along with famous Steelhead Grill. The list of impressive, delightful restaurants is long. We've also enjoyed The Original Fish Market, 1902 Tavern, and Froggy’s, a favorite of sports fans.

Public buildings, theaters, and churches are 19th-Century masterpieces and national treasures, preserved and restored meticulously. Pittsburgh has the "prototype of ‘Richardsonian Romanesque’" (Allegheny Courthouse) with recreation of Venice’s Bridge of Sighs, number 1 auditorium in the country (Benedum) with seating matching Paris Opera House, and the only "green" convention center in America. French gothic dormers, romanesque towers, neo-medieval turrets, baroque rotundas, and arches for horse and carriage decorate brick streets uptown where Carnegie, Frick, and Mellons made fortunes. Without traffic, this could be Bruges! Listed buildings and tours abound.

Best Way To Get Around:

Despite its unusual shape, the downtown triangle isn’t difficult to navigate by foot or subway. Driving is complicated and terrifying, most roads leaping abruptly into the sky over lofty bridges, but pedestrians enjoy close views of intricate street scenes. With Liberty Avenue as a reference point, walking isn’t even confusing, and this longest street has 3 "T" stops traversing its length. So much to do is compacted into so few blocks, defined and limited by the rivers, so we’ve never needed a taxi--and we’ve covered every block! Buses and the subway are free until they cross the rivers or into Oakland. Hotels have always provided us with walking maps, and Visitor Info above Gateway Center stop is the most helpful we’ve experienced anywhere. Information specialists there have made phone calls to check bus schedules to suburban attractions, closing times, and more. Surprisingly, waiters, business owners, everyone is of one mind: showing us their city. Where else would waiters walk onto the sidewalk with us to point the way?

We had stayed at this Westin before, so we knew what to expect: nice, large rooms, extra heavenly bath, full spa, and impeccable, smooth service. Late checkout was "no problem," even for a Saturday afternoon. We had booked online to get the internet rate, $95 payable in advance with full penalty for cancellation. Great deal for downtown and easier than Marriott to wheel luggage to! Plus, their complimentary shuttle would take us anywhere downtown -- handy in case of rain, though all points in the greater triangle are walkable from here. It’s the most convenient hotel in town for the theater district, and the free "cultural shuttle" stops in front of the door. We left the car at South Hills Village "T" station and rode to Wood Street stop.

The event this weekend at the David L. Lawrence Convention Center was one for the blind, so the lobby was full of golden retrievers and black "labs." Westin had everything under control and processed everyone with clockwork precision and without lines. Our room had a view of a few bridges over the Allegheny, and we could see the crowd at PNC Park at the Pirates’ game on the North Side. Everything was clean, well-lighted, up-to-date, and well stocked with coffee, tea, and personal items, bathrobe, and extra towels.

In the morning, we enjoyed the lap pool. Separate locker rooms with showers, saunas, and steam were also in fine working order, but the spa wasn’t appealing, even though the attendant had just cleaned it. Jets were weak and the water not hot enough. In a dark corner away from the windowed wall, it was drab and needed painted, perhaps replaced -- last year when we visited, it wasn’t even working. The impressive gym with every piece of equipment imaginable was full of guests with attendants supervising, and I noticed that it offers message therapy and aerobics classes.

Back in our room, we were ready for the best part of our stay: the shower. In light of all other facilities, it may seem trivial, but we always enjoy the two-head shower and come home wanting to remodel our bath. The bow-shaped curtain rod and ledge alongside the tub create extra width, too, but the real indulgence is the double spray -- yes, "heavenly."

So is The Original Fish Market, dubbed Pittsburgh’s premiere seafood restaurant by Westin and others as well. An established venue long before Westin moved into the building from the Hotel William Penn, it is always busy late -- open until 1am. Orchard Cafe with continental cuisine in a casual atmosphere and Harvest Bar for dinner specials are alternatives in the same building.

Westin is only three blocks from the theater district with two free shuttles. A concierge has schedules for theater and tours. Car rental and parking are also available.

National Historic Landmark Point State Park, where this country’s future was determined mid-1700’s, is for practical purposes Hilton’s front yard. The 200-ft. fountain there and three rivers are visible from rooms in the front of the building. Born as one in the 1950’s, both offspring of "Pittsburgh Renaissance," the hotel and park have transformed a once gritty slum into a miniature, casual waterside resort. The land the hotel occupies was the King’s deer park and gardens before the American Revolution. Today, shaded tranquility reigns over benched walkways at the back entrance (the one we use when we arrive from Gateway Center "T" stop). The recovery of this area, "the Point," has accomplished more than any other project task for the city’s reputation as a weekend destination.

Hilton was my first downtown hotel, and I recommend it for anyone’s introduction to the city. The first few blocks of the Triangle that is Pittsburgh are special, despite the traffic that empties onto it from Fort Pitt Bridge. Pedestrians are somehow sheltered from it and forget about it, and this is a hotel for people on foot -- parking is limited, expensive, and available only by advance arrangement. The "T" is practically across the street -- one short level block. From the park to Fifth Avenue Place are more flowers and grass and more showcase, modern buildings than anywhere else in town, and in the evenings, traffic subsides and the area becomes a place for a stroll. Fine restaurants are within the first block, and Hilton has its own "alternative" dining.

The lobby and hallways are elegantly furnished with open lounge, and the "promenade" or wide hallway has sidewalk cafe, pub, Chicago Pizza, and shops with Rodeo Drive items, a chic-casual atmosphere with dining tables along the walkway. A newsstand is down another hall with convenience items. The miniature city is an enticing place to be. There is a fitness room we haven’t used and local transportation we’ve never needed.

Rooms are large and well-furnished. Ours had table and two armchairs in front of the window; others are designed for workspace. We had everything we needed, including coffeepot, coffee and tea, complimentary spring water, and personal items. Everything was immaculate, well-lighted, and in working order. Staff was efficient and gracious.

We’ve always stayed in summer when Hilton sets up a canopied bar on the front sidewalk, complete with live music and cool river breeze. The city has successfully routed traffic away from the park, so it isn’t noisy or dangerous to cross the street for a change of scenery. For theater, take the "T" or walk two more blocks to the cultural district. A concierge is in the lobby for schedules and reservations, and tour buses always stop at the door.

Marriott Center City’s Steelhead Grill is for people who grow eggplant and pick it minutes before they begin the tedious process of creating perfect ratatouille. "Dinner and a movie" types who dedicate evenings to culinary masterpieces made from scratch have nothing to complain about at Marriott’s upscale sportsbar, considered by many as the finest in the country. Esquire and Playboy call it "the best new restaurant in Pittsburgh . . . ever," and the Esquire review is proudly displayed inside the door.

Everything is made from fresh ingredients. "Everything," our waitress repeated -- and then brought us "Nick’s raisin bread," just out of the oven, plus two other varieties. This wasn’t sweet raisin bread, like Grandma made, but without sugar and the epitome of "wholesome goodness." In addition to raisins, the concoction contained citron and carraway, perfect amounts. I mentioned focaccia, and the waitress enumerated several varieties of Nick’s focaccia, plus "something different every day, and it’s always a surprise." Yes, he makes biscotti, too, several flavors, and bruschetta is on the dinner menu, I noticed. As we were beginning to wish we could take Nick home with us, she brought us more! I had seen the bread display inside the entrance, so I asked if I might buy some -- "Yes. We need to know in advance, but Nick will always make extra if he knows somebody wants it. It’s $3 a loaf." Next time . . . I have their number!

We heard more description of spectacular-sounding desserts we couldn’t try after all that bread, and we learned a bit about the pastry chef, who . . . yes, makes "everything from scratch." But, the real star of this show is Chef Greg Alauzen, whose vegetable side dishes get rave reviews. I must try his ratatouille, braised cabbage with noodles, and parsnip puree. A former New Jersey restaurant owner, Chef Greg is known for his surprise combinations -- and for sending back food that doesn’t meet his criterion for freshness. This Saturday afternoon, the dining room closed as we arrived at noon and we were limited to the sandwich menu in the bar. (Weekdays, lunch must be busier.) My yellowfin tuna on fresh greens was good, and my friend’s french fries were cut on the premises.

Service was excellent. Clearly, personnel are proud of the food they serve and glad to work here. Decor is upscale with Olympic sports and rowing theme, paddles displayed on the wall. This Marriott houses all college and professional teams but NFL, so management is committed to the sports motif, as well as to the theme of plenty on the plate and freshness for athletes in training concerned with protecting muscle content.

We walked to Marriott, but we were close. Anyone starting from further downtown might want to ride the "T" to Steel Plaza stop and then walk around behind USX Tower to see the bridge to the left. A catwalk off the bridge to Steelhead’s door isn’t difficult to find.

WDVE Radio began broadcasting at noon live from the Park. From our room at the Hilton across the street, we watched the crowd growing to 40,000 -- and KDKA-TV. A blood drive, family activities, and volleyball were the first events to commence -- not interesting to us, but we saw street entertainers. We meandered over for vendors' food, enjoyed sun at the fountain and shade along paths with inviting benches. We would visit the Fort Pitt Museum and Blockhouse in the morning. That was last year.

This year, we found Hilton booked a week before the event, so we stayed at Westin. Again, we watched KDKA, this time expecting cancellation. "200,000 expected downtown tonight," we heard. News anchors stayed in touch with event officials. Heavy sheets of rain slithering down our window made skyscrapers appear to crumble, but the show was "a go"! We walked to the park too late for the adult climbing wall or hot air balloon -- rained out. Next year, we’ll get off the ground! For now, park, music, and fireworks were enough for a special holiday.

After we situated ourselves close to the stage, we surveyed vendors’ offerings: fried rice, chicken-on-a-stick, fajitas, pizza, stuffed grape leaves, and "healthy" popcorn, the man insisted. It was good -- with honey. We got Philly cheesesteaks since it was an American holiday, but went back for fried rice.

"The hills are alive . . .!" Remembering their phenomenal reception in Austria, music and hearts swelled, and then the aymphony played patriotic favorites. I could see Mariss Jansons conducting, so animated. He has won awards for both music and "community involvement" and is considered "a Pittsburgh treasure." "Clip-clop, clip-clop -- On the Trail Again," and I was glad I was not on the trail, felt lucky to have this special geography with my favorite skyline peeking through trees, favorite hills surrounding. Now the 1812 Overture, and that was our cue to get close to the fountain and river.

"Crackle" and "boom" and WDVE’s soundtrack punctuated every incandescent explosion with the appropriate musical phrase until the sky was so full of smoke it couldn’t hold any more! Lights on Mount Washington and the Duquesne Incline lit the hill while those of the stadium and Science Center reflected in the water. Fort Pitt Bridge overhead gleamed iridescent, a yellow arabesque above the trees. Fifty thousand were "glad to be an American," and then it was all over but the shouting.

Next morning, we went back to experience the park in solitude, as Hilton guests do. Walking paths afford views of rivers, and bike paths link with longer ones. Mid-1700’s, two great nations almost fought for this ground--French abandoned Fort Duquesne without a battle. The ramparts of the original moat are unearthed and stone walks recreated where walls of the fort stood. Fort Pitt Museum of French and Indian War gave us insight into Pittsburgh’s earliest history and the importance of the "Golden Triangle," degenerated into a slum and then razed with "Renaissance Project" to create the park.