Cultural Crossroads in Spain's Andalucia

Andalucia is a land rich in the legends and history of the Moors. These north African people ruled southern Spain for nearly 800 years (711-1492) in a kingdom they called Al-Andalus. Today, the land and cities within Andalucia are still teeming with the cultural marvels of the Moors.

Sevilla, Spain's fourth largest city, is the capital of this magical region. With its narrow streets, brightly flowered patios and whitewashed buildings, it is also the most inviting in all of Europe. See the sites and stroll the shops, yes, but be sure to feel the treasure of the Moorish legacy which beckons across centuries of time.

Quick Tips:

My best suggestion for anyone traveling to Sevilla would be to spend at least two weeks. You can break up the site seeing with sheer cultural enjoyment by immersion. Of course, NEVER come back empty-handed. Sevilla is a primo location for buying beautiful ceramics, gorgeous inlaid boxes, and delicious yemas (egg based nougat-like sweets), along with the more traditional combs, wine and fans.

Best Way To Get Around:

Sevilla's city center is a compact, winding maze of narrow streets and most of the sites are well within walking distance from any point. You don't have to be a great athlete or even moderately fit to walk this city. Enjoying leisurely strolls through the medeaval streets is a must. If walking is out of the question, never fear. There are plenty of taxi "line-ups" outside nearly every hotel. Getting one is easy; stand in line at the post and the next taxi is yours. Sevilla boasts an excellent location for day trips. There are plenty of charters available and any hotel can arrange for you to participate.

Spaniards drive on the right making car rental a real possibility for us "yankees". You'll need your home license, insurance and registration. The rules of the road are similar: seatbelts must be worn, no children under ten in the front. Bus travel is easy and runs close to schedule. The train station is best reached by car/taxi since it's outside the cozy confines of the city center. Trains run amazingly close to schedule. Show up even 2 seconds late and you'll miss out!

During my holiday in Seville, I stayed at the Melia Sevilla, a wonderful hotel in a convenient location! Every point of interest is within close walking distance, including Plaza de Espana across from the hotel. There are also many "needful" places close by. San Marcos restaurant is next door, a supermarket is just down the street, and a Papelaria (buy a journal!) is around the corner.

The hotel staff is comprised of really fantastic people. Upon my arrival, I was told in no uncertain terms of the hotel's ultimate goal--to make me feel right at home. My angelic concierge implored me to ask for anything I needed at any hour. I was almost "forbidden" to do anything for myself. Everything from detailed information to day trips and guided tours to a frantic search for a taxi on Christmas Eve was taken on by the staff. Much of this incredible service was brought on only by a small question of curiosity on my part. I'd never really asked for anything outright, yet my every desire was fulfilled.

The hotel has a GIGANTIC breakfast buffet. Everywhere I looked there were baskets piled high with gourmet treats, suffice it to say, I made like a wee lil piggy and had a blast! My favorite items were fresh squeezed orange juice, deliciously sweet Iberian Ham (try some!) and light, crisp churros. The buffet also included items which changed from day to day.

The hotel itself is a beautiful place with pretty marble everywhere. The entrance features a spacious revolving door with sculpture amidst starry lights. Upon entering, the tranquil sound of the large fountain pool fills the air. A stately lounge area, elevators, and the service desk are just to the right. The fantastic hotel restaurant is to the left. A full service salon beckons from behind the fountain. Postal stamps are sold in the salon, but bring your mailings to the service desk.

My room was lovely. It had a perfect view of Plaza de Espana and the swimming pool. There are plenty of mirrors including a large full-length in the hallway. The spacious bathroom is made of golden marble and featured (hehe) a bidet across from the toilet. The vanity area was set up like a "his and hers." On one side there was a cosmetics display, small velvet chaise and hair dryer while on the other there was a fog-proof mirror and toiletry caddy. The bedroom contained a large closet and bureau, writing desk and easy chair. There was also a nice TV, but I didn't visit Sevilla to watch it! I turned it on once to get a weather report and that's when I noticed it had been programed with a personalized welcome message! Everything at this hotel is splendid. If you are going to stay in a hotel in Seville, you MUST stay at the Melia Sevilla! You won't be disappointed!

The San Marco Italian restaurant is located right next door to the Melia Sevilla, the hotel where we stayed. Since it was the Christmas season, everything in this gorgeous restaurant was decorated beautifully. Classical renditions of well-known carols filled the air and the smell of fine cuisine spilled out onto the streets.

The atmosphere is almost "home-style" where the regulars greet each other and often join their small tables to eat together. But there is also much romance in the air! Just say "table for two" and you will find yourself nestled among fine paintings, fabric covered walls, and crystal candlelight chandeliers. Most of these romantic tables are set up near a window adding further ambiance with a pretty view of the city.

The food is absolutely wonderful, although impossible to finish! Part of this restaurant's tradition is to give many, many extras such as complimentary after-dinner cordials and candies. It is also not uncommon for the chef to come out and introduce himself to the patrons of the evening. It is amazing that such a fine restaurant experience can be had for such an inexpensive price!

This establishment was part of my nightly "bar hopping" spree . . . tapas bar hopping, that is! Tapas are bite-sized servings of food. They include shellfish, meat or chicken, often accompanied by a sauce or cheese, sausages, olives, Iberian ham, and all the bread ever needed to "clear the palate". For the Spaniards, this custom of "tapeo" (moving from bar to bar sampling just one dish each time) is the only way to do dinner. Sevilla is full of these little Mom-and-Pop-style restaurants and my husband and I think they're a national treasure.

Often times, you'll find a group of tapas bars clustered just outside of a residential area (a great sign). This particular little tapas bar was among the best that I'd found! The ambience, service, and cuisine was absolutely perfect. One of my favorite moments while dining here was ordering the delicious Iberian ham. These cured ham legs are stored (hoof and all) by hanging them over the bar. Upon ordering, one of the bartenders will happily take down a fresh leg and carve it up right there. Iberian ham is a specialty of this very well-loved establishment. It wasn't hard believe that the patrons went through two entire legs during the short time we were there.

I recommend eating right at the bar rather than sitting down. The more crowded places offer a chance to mingle with the locals and enjoy the house specialties. Just ask for what the guy next to you is having! Also, be sure to have a glass of the very excellent sherry offered with your tapas.

Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) is said to have received its name from the elaborate golden tilework that once adorned its walls. It was built in 1220 by the Moors as a defensive lookout point and once had a twin on the opposite side of the river. Giant chains hidden under the water were stretched between them to ensnare enemy ships. The doomed ships were then pummeled by melon-sized cannon balls and sunk. The top piece of the tower was later added in 1760.

An interesting history of uses for the tower have followed since its Moorish glory days. Among them, use as a chapel, prison, gun powder supply and port office. Today it is the site of a small maritime museum featuring maps, paintings and antiques. Even if you are not into maritime history, I strongly recommend visiting the museum. The little cannon balls alone are worth the trip and you'll learn a lot!

The Renaissance Pavilion of the 1929 Spanish-American Exhibition is now the archaeology museum of Andalucia. It's a lovely building which houses wonderful exhibits dating from the first BC settlers (on the basement floor) continuing up to Moorish Spain. Everything from crude weapons and tools to gorgeous stone carved statues and monuments are arranged for admiration. Many of the more important exhibits were discovered right in Sevilla. Among them, samples of ancient mosaic tile work and the fascinating Carambolo gold jewelry dating back to sixth century BC times!

Surprisingly, many of these ancient items are displayed out in the open where someone could easily touch them. It seems all of the museum's visitors are, thankfully, very respectful. Though there is no sign posted, photographs are not permitted regardless whether the camera uses a flash or not. I found this out after having my photo taken with one of the beautiful olive vessels. I do hope you enjoy the forbidden photo and hope it inspires all of you to visit this exquisite museum.

Plaza de Espana was built for the 1929 Spanish-American Exhibition at the Iberian Fair. This was a prequel, of sorts, to the World's Fair. Beautiful tilework "vinettes" line this semi-circular plaza which was the Fair's prized centerpiece. Each represents a different area of Andalucia. In the summertime, the locals come to lie and sunbathe in these vinettes when they can't get to the beach.

It's a stunning, picturesque place which has been featured in movies like Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones. The building itself is now used as a military office complex. During the day, tourism is welcomed and passage through the halls is permitted. At night, however, it is a much different story. The complex is guarded by soldiers, but the plaza grounds are kept open for buggy tours and strolling romantics.

Casa de Pilatos (Pilate's House) was built in the very early 1500s by the first Marquess of Tarifa. He was inspired by a journey he had taken through Europe two years prior. Although this site was never really Pontius Pilate's house, it's the traditional site because parts of it were modeled after sketches of his summer palace.

The upstairs part of this amazing home is inhabited by the decendents of the Marquess (the Dukes of Medinaceli), who have decided to open parts of their home to the general public. Anyone can tour the many beautiful rooms and galleries for a very small fee. It runs about four dollars for a partial tour and about six for a complete one.

Every single object in this lovely palace was undoubtedly priceless. The family even has a preservation staff on hand to keep these treasures in excellent shape. They were kind enough to let me take a picture of their important work in progress!

During the private part of the tour in the upstairs rooms I saw a really funny set of paintings. In the room dedicated to the women of the family were two paintings of the same woman facing each other from opposite walls. The first painting was sent to her fiance (by arrangement) before the wedding. It was the portrait of a beautiful, young, bright-eyed, very idyllic woman. The second painting was done after the wedding. It was a portrait of what she really looked like . . . a jolly, jiggley, squinty-eyed, piggly-looking woman! Perhaps this poor lady feared her wedding would have been called off if her intended had known what she really looked like. I come to affectionately refer to the first painting as "the prehistoric internet photo". If you'd like to see it, you'll just have to go to Sevilla! Photographs are not permitted in the upstairs rooms.

There are so many fantastic pieces of art and craftsmanship all throughout this exquisitly tiled palace. Do make a point to visit and take the full tour!

One of the many activities to enjoy while in Sevilla is a Flamenco show. The Andalucian Palace puts on a great production in a dinner theater setting. The food, of course, was great, but the show was even better!

Flamenco is a gypsy dance with origins in India and Africa. Mixing their own Indian-influenced culture with existing Moorish and Spanish traditions, the gypsies set much of their dance to Jewish and Christian music over time. Hence, by the 1700s, Flamenco began to take on the form we know today.

The show was beautiful, bright and emotional . . . altogether energetic! The dancers even performed scenes from Carmen, the very famous story of a gypsy woman brought to work in Sevilla's Royal Tobacco Factory. Some of the dancers' moves were so fast that the camera could only catch a pretty swirl of color. It has been my experience that regular 35mm cameras work much better than digital when it comes to high speed Flamenco!

On this particular walking tour, I had an incredible amount of history to digest. I was shown the Gold and Silver towers built by the Moors and learned the reason why most of Sevilla (and Andalucia) has that famous yellow and white color scheme. Gold/Yellow and Silver/White represent those two beloved towers in Sevilla. I also got to visit the building place of the Niña, Pinta, and Santa Maria--the very ships that were given to Christopher Columbus by Ferdinand and Isabella, the Catholic monarchs.

This building is a fairly new discovery in terms of what it was in its day. It had always been known as an old armory kept just outside the city wall. Beneath the dirt floor, however, is exciting evidence of Columbus' shipyard. There are even remains of the old broken down olive oil vessels and jars used to "shovel" in the dirt to raise the floor for the armory years and years later. Talk about back-breaking work! Permission to dig further has recently been granted. Perhaps I'll return and see more of this great discovery in a few years!

Among other sites, I saw part of the great cathedral campus affectionately referred to as "El Aleman" (the German). This name refers to the German peoples who settled in Sevilla and helped build up the city and church areas to make them rich and great. Although this particular site was originally Muslim, the Germans added many decorative and structural features. The products of the original bitter-orange trees of the Muslims still grow inside the gates. The Muslims used these oranges to "wash" before praying. The orange would be cut in half and then rubbed on the body. Sticky, sticky! It is amazing to see such a beautiful mix of Muslim, Jewish, and Christian culture whose evidence still survives to this day.

Sevilla's beloved cathedral houses the work of many medieval artisans . . . most of whom never saw the completion of the cathedral they worked so hard on.

The tomb of Christopher Columbus is here as well. Four beautifully crafted bronze statues of kings act as pall-bearers for the coffin believed to contain the remains of the explorer. The kings, of course, represent the four kingdoms of Spain with the Castilles and the Leonis up front. At this time, no one is certain if this tomb is indeed his or that of his son. DNA testing has begun in several independent laboratories around the world. This will determine if Christopher Colombus rests in Spain or in the Dominican Republic as he did when he was first buried.

The Cathedral also contains many great paintings by well known artists. Among them, a painting by Goya illustrating two saints' profound devotion to God. These two women were killed for destroying statues and monuments dedicated to pagan gods. One woman was thrown to the lions while the other was burned at the stake. The keys to the old city wall are kept here as well.

After studying the many important sites within the church, I shuffled my way up 36 steep ramps to the grande finale: the very top of La Giralda and the cathedral's bell tower. The original medieval builders were very much ahead of their time when the plans were drawn up for this tower. The use of ramps made the long trip up easier, faster and safer than the usual staircase ever could. Once I finally reached the top, I had a perfect 360-degree view of Sevilla. A fabulous prize by any measure!

This, my fellow travelers, is an attempt to pass along some very useful tips which can't be found in any travel book. Enjoy, take heed, and be wise!

Do NOT say or expect to see the word "baño" when seeking the restroom...it is the equivalent of our slang term "crapper". Instead, say or look for the word "aseo", which is far more polite!

Do not wear synthetic fabrics, even in wintertime--with all the walking you WILL roast! I tend to feel very cold year round, but in Sevilla I was sweating to death in the crisp December air. Wear natural, cotton blends and layer them as needed. That's what the Spaniards do.

Beware of sneakers and the so-called "good shoe". The streets and sidewalks are paved with a marble blend much different than what most are used to in the USA. Just add a little water and you'll take off like a rocket. I've found that the very shoes I thought treacherous were the safest to wear and basically lived in block-heeled boots the entire trip.

Beware of judging too harshly the gypsy groups hanging out near top attractions. They are harmless and deserve respect, but will try to clean your shoes or perhaps sell you something at an expensive price. Often a polite "No, gracias" will do.

Do not say no to a glass of wine with your tapas unless medically necessary...everyone will think you're crazy! Besides, it's very fruity and delicious!

Do not be afraid to try everything that is served to you, even if you're not sure what it is. Trust me, there's no such thing as bad food in Sevilla!

Last but not least, do not eat the bitter oranges. While some may find them easy to ingest, we've been told it's better to play safe. I leave you with the words of one of my guides: "These are bitter oranges. Only the Japanese are brave enough to eat them. You may take and eat, but remember...the bathroom is waiting for you!"

On Christmas Eve, most everything is closed because this day, rather than the 25th, is Spain's big holiday. I'd spent most of the day relaxing and strolling about the city after another fantastic desayuno (breakfast). As it got later in the day, however, I began to wonder about dinner. I never really gave too much thought regarding the day of December 24th to be a major part of the Eve celebration and therefore hadn't planned accordingly. The restaurants were all closed for lunch and I knew they certainly wouldn't be opening for dinner. Even the supermarkets were closed. Luckily I'd found a McDonald's just before closing and ate Christmas Eve dinner on the river next to Torre del Oro. Very laughable, yes, but also very beautiful and full of serendipity! How many people can say they ate Christmas Eve dinner overlooking historic Sevilla?

Later, I set out for a nearby church to attend a midnight mass or Misa de Gallo (Mass of the Rooster). I had arrived a bit early, so I just walked around the surrounding neighborhood while hearing sounds of families finishing dinner, singing songs, and getting ready for church. It was altogether delightful.

The service was very nice with many familiar Christmas carols sung in Spanish. The songs, which weren't familiar, were just as beautiful. Most were about the city of Sevilla and how the residents feel Jesus in their lives every day of the year. Many of the gorgeous decorations and ornaments were hand-made including a very large Bethlehem nativity scene. The beautiful display took up the back quarter of the church and was complete in every detail. Vibrant colors, mountains, flowing water and starry lights brought the whole landscape to life!

When I left, it was extremely cold outside so I half walked, half ran my way back to the hotel. I'll never foget how magical that night was...it was Christmastime and I was in Sevilla.

After landing in Madrid, I bought my train ticket and then took a taxi to the station where I found out just how precisely on schedule the trains are in Spain! Show up even 2 seconds past the leaving time and you'll be kissing it's back end goodbye while kicking your own for the next hour of waiting time. It's funny now to remember it, but at the time it was a little scary in an Out-of-Towners sort of way. After a little explaining, the attending supervisor graciously validated my ticket for the 12pm train at no charge because the original ticket agent had never validated it when I first purchased it.

The two hour train ride to Sevilla was exciting and scenic . . . I was really in Spain! Afterwards, I took a taxi to the Melia Sevilla Hotel where I was greeted by the most wonderful staff in the world who took one look at my jet-lagged state and swore I'd not be disturbed. That was music to my ears as all I could do was immediately crash on the very comfy bed without even bothering to unpack.

I had a fabulous paella for dinner that night (watch out for little bones in the chicken) in the hotel restaurant and my waitress really impressed me with her serving technique using two tablespoons and a fork. She swiveled and scooped them across the platter in a mesmerizing ballet dance of artful cuisine and served me like she was making dinner for her long-lost child.

Just a point of note for anyone traveling to Spain who is not familiar with the customs: unless your accommodations include a kitchen, you must eat on the Spaniard's schedule or you WILL starve! Everything closes for siesta and often does not re-open until 8pm.