Cruising In the Midnight Sun

Magical is the best way to describe Gigglewood Lakeside Inn. Turning off the Parks Highway at mile marker 88 we followed the signs and with several turns on a gravel road to Rainbow Ridge Road we arrived at the first log cabin on the left. We were greeted by the Owners, Linda and Larry Cline. Welcome to Gigglewood!

We asked about the name "Gigglewood". The Clines told us that they found unique and twisted tree branches and incorporated them into their home, using them as railings and trim. Linda named the branches gigglewood, because they made her smile when she saw them.

There are three units available and can be viewed on their website, Gigglewood Lakeside Inn. We chose the Woodland Suite, the largest one, as there were four of us traveling. It was a beautiful upstairs unit with a bedroom and living room with a cushy and comfortable futon, a complete kitchen and an extraordinary bathroom. Every nook and cranny had a distinctive and unique design, from the stenciled wall trim to the exquisite quilts on the beds. We especially appreciated the supply of coffee and teas that were made available for that first thing in the morning wake-up cup.

After settling in, the Clines invited us to enjoy their small paddleboat to explore the lake. Wearing the required life jackets, we pushed off the small dock and entered into the calm and tranquil lake. By this time it was already 8pm but the sun was still high in the sky, and thanks to the "midnight sun" we were able to enjoy a long, leisurely ride on the pristine waters.

Breakfast was served in a cozy dining area overlooking the lake and we were delighted when the Cline’s joined us at the table. Linda had prepared eggs, reindeer sausage, fruit, muffins, and hot cocoa, tea, coffee, and juice. Everything was delicious. Along with wonderful conversation we enjoyed watching the abundant bird life gathering around the bird feeders just outside the ceiling to floor windows. Artic Terns and Loons are frequent visitors to this lakeside paradise.

We learned a lot about the Alaskan spirit and determination during our brief stay. I am always curious as to "why" people leave the lower 48 to live in Alaska, so in my normal questioning manner, I asked Linda,"so, how did you get to Alaska". With a smile and in typical Alaskan humor Linda said, "we drove".

It was one of those times we just didn’t want to end; didn’t want to leave this magical paradise. But Denali was calling, so it was back on the road for us.

First I will tell you what Denali Suites doesn’t have. It doesn’t have any beautiful landscaping surrounding this four-plex remodeled building. It doesn’t have much in the way of interior décor. It doesn’t have a paved road leading up to it or any breathtaking vistas from the windows.

BUT, what it does have makes all the difference. It has two large bedrooms with queen size beds that are extremely comfortable, ample closets and dressers. It has a complete kitchen including coffeemaker, microwave, full size refrigerator and a dishwasher. It has coffee, tea, and a few snacks on the kitchen counter. It has two long cushy couches in the living room and a TV with cable and a VCR. It has a private telephone so I could connect to the Internet each night. It has a washer and dryer for our use with soap and softener provided. It has large, plush towels in the bathroom and an oversized tub (a welcomed amenity after the small showers on the cruise ship). It also has a great location-a short 11 miles from the entrance of Denali National Park.

I booked our two night stay at the Denali Suites over the internet. Within a week, I received an envelope from the Owner, Judy Hundrup, with information about the area, shuttle schedules and a detailed map to find the place, which was very much appreciated. When we arrived and entered the foyer, there was a note for me, saying "make yourself at home -- the key is on the table. Call me if you need anything". Judy stopped by later to make sure everything was okay and gave us directions to the local grocery store and other information we needed.

Using Denali Suites as home base we were able to enjoy the area including the Town of Denali and Denali National Park. This was truly a "home away from home".

There are also three-bedroom units available, a perfect place for family or couples traveling together.

Denali Suites

This quiet, obscure little tour captured our attention because of its uniqueness. The Glacier Gardens Rainforest is the brainchild of Steve and Cindy Bowhay, who purchased 50 acres backed up to the Tongass Forest in 1994.

We arrived from our ship by bus and were welcomed by a staff member who gave us a little history. Probably the most unique feature is theupside-down trees. Here is how the story is told. One day Steve was working on pulling out a large tree stump with a rented backhoe. Something went wrong and the stump damaged the big machine. In a fit of temper, Steve grabbed the tree with the claws and rammed it into the ground. And there it remained -- the top of the tree trunk jammed several feet into the soft rainforest floor -- the roots sticking up about 10 feet in the air. Leaving it for several days, he noticed that it would make a perfect spot to hang baskets of flowers. And that is how the Flower Towers, filled with cascading plants such as begonias and petunias, came into being.

From that point on, every tree that has to be removed to make way for a road or path is flipped upside down and planted deep into the ground. We all got a good laugh when one passenger asked if the tree was still alive.

After the introduction we were taken in groups of four in electric golf carts along the winding pathways, through the indigenous forest to a lookout at the top. Along the way our driver told us about the forest, its native plants and trees and how the Bowhays were working to preserve and share this area.

From the large wooden deck at the lookout perched 600 feet above the valley floor, we could see for miles -- the beautiful blue sky and the fluffy white clouds, the snow capped mountains in the distance and a beautiful valley just below. One of the guides was there to answer questions and tell us about the area. He told us about the large bald eagle population and just then, as if right on queue, an eagle appeared, gliding through the air as if showing out its large wing-span to all the tourists.

After taking in the surrounding scenery, we re-boarded our carts for the ride back down the mountain. Some places in the forest were so dense very little sunlight penetrated. When a tree falls, it is left as it fell, unless it is in a roadway. The pathways were just being planted for the summer season with flowering plants one of the few enhancements needed in this wooded wonderland. We were invited into the Green House for refreshments, gifts and restrooms, before returning to our ship.

The area is completely handicapped accessible, including the lookout at the top of the mountain. I promise if you visit this rain forest, you will never again look at a tree in the same way.

"There’s gold in them ‘thar hills"was the cry in 1896 when George Carmack and his two companions discovered gold. Even though the few flakes they found barely filled a spent rifle cartridge, it began the stampede to the Klondike. When the news broke in the Seattle Post-Intelligence on July 1, 1897, over one hundred thousand gold seekers made their way up the Inside Passage to Skagway to begin the dangerous 600-mile trek to the Klondike. An untold number of men and women perished on the White Pass and Chilkoot Trails, and over three thousand horses and pack animals were lost on the steep trails in that first year of the gold rush. There had to be an easier way.

The White Pass & Yukon Railroad Company was the dream of four men, Samuel Graves, John Bishop, E. C. Hawkins and Michael J. Heney and on May 28, 1898, construction began on the 110-mile narrow gauge railroad. July 29, 1900 was the official opening of the railroad. After $10 Million, 450 tons of explosives and countless hours of work by thirty-five thousand men, the first passenger train pulled out carrying a half million dollars in gold dust.

Today, the White Pass & Yukon Railroad is still running, but the "gold" it carries is now the tourists anxious to experience the magnificent scenery and breathtaking views.

We were surprised when we disembarked the Sun Princess in Skagway to see the train from the past right in front of us, just a few steps from our large, modern-day cruise ship. We boarded a car in the middle of the train, and chose seats near the door, because I knew I would be standing on the platform to take pictures. Don’t concern yourself as to which side to sit on. At the Summit the train stops, moves the engines to the opposite end of the train for the trip down. Passengers are asked to "flip" their seats (to face the opposite direction) and to change sides. Everyone cooperated and the transition was smooth; we were again facing forward, with all new views from our windows.

No matter where we were on the train, the view was breathtaking. At the lower elevations of the Tongass National Forest, we could see the steep inclines that were traveled by those early prospectors, cascading waterfalls and a variety of trees including the Black Cottonwood, Western Hemlock and the Alaska State Tree, the Sitka Spruce. Nearing the Summit, snow dominated the landscape. The wooden bridges and trestles created wonderful photo opportunities. The only refreshment available was complimentary bottled water, but no one seemed to mind. There was a bathroom in each car and there was no smoking anywhere on the train.

Our four-hour trip flew by and before we knew it, we were pulling into the Skagway Train Station. Passengers can get off there and enjoy Skagway or stay on the train and return to the cruise ship after a short stop.

One evening while in Denali we were looking for something fun to do and stumbled onto Alaska Cabin Nite. It is a live dinner theater with great food, fun and music, presented at the McKinley Chalet Resort.

With Rosie at the piano, belting out some great sing-along tunes, we were seated at a picnic style table with benches. At our table were three other couples. Our waiter, who was also one of the performers, made us all feel right at home. He remained in character throughout the evening, telling us short tales about life during the gold rush days.

The food is served family style, and it is an all you care to eat adventure. We started with a large bowl of fresh crisp salad and a plate of sourdough rolls. The singing continued.

The waiters took turns on stage in a relaxed atmosphere, encouraging the guest to join in the singing. It was time for the main course: smoked salmon, barbecue ribs, corn, baked beans and more salad . . . and more ribs . . . and more sourdough rolls . . . And the singing continued.

Not being a big fan of salmon, I chowed down on the ribs, something this Texan knows very well. The ribs were tender and flavorful and very messy -- a requirement for really good ribs. The baked beans were quite spicy and required a couple extra glasses of iced-tea.

Blueberry cobbler and coffee were served -- the waiters all disappeared for a few minutes, and then the show started. It is the story of Fannie Quigley and the gold rush in the early1900s. The show helped us understand a little more about the hardships, humor and challenges of those early adventurers and about the resolve of those who chose Alaska as their home.

Even after the show ended, and everyone was saying their good-byes, the signing continued.

With our ship docked for a full 12 hours in Skagway, we had plenty of time following our White Pass & Yukon Railroad trip to explore Skagway. It is an easy walk from the cruise ship dock into Skagway or you can take a bus from the docks to anywhere in town for $1.50 per person. A third option is to take a Streetcar tour in a vintage 1920’s bright yellow sightseeing bus. We took the bus to the far side of town, strolled and shopped our way back to the train station, then walked back to the ship.

The main drag in Skagway is Broadway Street. We got off the bus in front of the Skagway Outlet Store, featuring T-shirts, caps, figurines, stuffed toys and dolls, jewelry, postcards, and of course, the famous Alaskan Eskimo Ulu Knife. (If you buy one of these knives, be sure to pack it in your checked luggage- not your carry on.)

Just across the street is Lynch & Kennedy, 350 Broadway, featuring original Alaskan art and fine jewelry. The totems and authentic art pieces are incredible, but way too expensive for this traveler. At the Skagway Brewing Company you can buy a talking beer bottle opener or a brewery logo T-shirt or take home a porcelain Eskimo Doll from Keller’s Trading Company.

Other stores along the way are Simply Alaskan, Little Switzerland, The Alaskan Christmas Store and the Purple Moose. Unfortunately, most of the stores carry the same products at about the same price and since shopping is not my favorite activity I was more interested in the history and scenery features along Broadway. There are many eating places as well, including the Red Onion Saloon and the Stowaway Café.

The building facades throughout Skagway reflect the time of the gold rush era and the most unique is the Artic Brotherhood Hall. The front of the building is covered with 8,800 pieces of driftwood. Originally a meeting place, now it is the Skagway Visitor Center and Museum. Another interesting building is the Skaguay News. Yes, it is spelled Skaguay, not Skagway. Near the newspaper office is a wonderfully preserved wooden Indian statute -- a perfect place for a silly photo.

Our final stop was the Train Shoppe. It is adjacent to the train Depot and features White Pass & Yukon Route (WR&YP) memorabilia, clothes, hats, toys and unique gifts. I purchased an engineer’s hat and train whistle for our Grandson.

From the Train Shoppe, it is a pleasant and scenic one-quarter mile walk back to the ship and a wonderful day in Skagway was nearing its end.

Ketchikan, is Alaska’s southern most city and its fourth largest. It is also known as Alaska’s "First City" because it was the first major community travelers came to on their way North. Average rainfall is 155 inches per year; sunshine is cherished and enjoyed. It was raining the day we arrived.

Because our ship would be docked in Ketchikan only a half day and because my parents, who were traveling with us, were not into bike tours, canoe safaris, kayaking or sports fishing, we decided to simply walk around the town. The docks are almost in the center of town and it is an easy walk to many interesting points.

Our first stop was Whale Park, a small park in a triangle formed by Bawden Street, Mill Street and Mission. It is filled with colorful flowers. I was amazed at the gardens considering the cold weather. In the park is the Knox Brothers Clock which has been working since the turn of the century and Tingit Chief Kyan’s Totem. It is a perfect place for pictures.

While we were at the park, we saw the horse-drawn trolley pass by. The clippity-clop of the horse’s hooves against the cobblestone transported us back in time for a moment. It left us wishing we had taken that tour. Perhaps next time.

We proceeded up Mission Street another block or so to an area of Ketchikan’s checkered past known as Creek Street. Creek Street is a boardwalk built on pilings over the Ketchikan Creek and was a red-light district in 1903. After 1920, the houses became speakeasies with bootlegged liquor flowing freely. Of course, the main business on Creek Street in those days was prostitution. The most renowned house of ill repute was Dolly’s. Dolly "entertained" gentlemen callers until 1953 when Ketchikan’s red-light district was shut down.

Today, the buildings along the Ketchikan Creek have been restored and are occupied by shops and art galleries. Dolly’s is now a museum and gift shop, filled with antiques and memorabilia and gives visitors a glimpse into Ketchikan’s past.

We meandered back towards our ship, stopping for a while at Moggie’s on Dock Street, a local coffee shop; enjoyed a hot cup of coffee and did some people watching. Back along Front Street at the docks, with our ship in full view, we had the opportunity to do some serious shopping; store after store offering unique Alaskan treasurers. This would be only the first of many opportunities to purchase that perfect souvenir.

No matter if you take the North Bound or the South Bound Route of an Inside Passage Cruise, connections will be an issue at the beginning and the end of the cruise.

The Princess offers a transfer package for $82 per person and will get you from the airport to the ship, then from the ship to the airport. You can also choose only one of the transfers. After collecting your luggage at baggage, look for the Princess Desk. They will take your luggage and transfer it to the ship. Several hours later, it will magically appear outside your Stateroom. Make sure you place the colored tags that you receive from Princess on each bag.

Transfer between Vancouver Airport to the Sun Princess

One-way transfer in Vancouver from the airport to the ship Sun Princess is $27 per person. Since there were four of us traveling together, I wanted to save where ever I could. Based on information from a very reliable IgoUgo Guide, a taxi from the Vancouver Airport to the ship would only cost $25 to $30 for the four of us. If you decide to go this route, be sure to determine out ahead of time where your ship will be docked. Don’t depend on the taxi driver to know.

We had a great driver, who obviously was a want-to-be tour guide. He seemed genuinely excited to show us his adopted city. Costs $35 including tip (amount saved: $73).

Although we did not use the Princess transfers, we were still able to leave our luggage at the Princess Desk at the Airport for the transfer to the ship.

Transfer between the Sun Princess and Anchorage Airport

The transfer between Seward, where the ships dock, and Anchorage is a little more challenging with many more options.

By a comfortable Princess Bus that leisurely takes you from the ship docks to the Anchorage Visitors Center or the Airport so you can connect with your flight home. Time:2 hours, cost $55 per person. Free transportation is available from the Visitors Center to the Airport.

By train- Time 4 to 5 hours, cost $85 per person and is the most scenic.

Planning to spend additional time in Alaska?

Transportation will be incorporated into a land tour before returning home.

Rent a Vehicle: Not as easy as it sounds. There is only one company in Seward that will allow you to drop the vehicle in Anchorage. Hertz quoted me $170 per day for a mini-van. ($170 X 3 days = $510).

By taking the Bus to the Anchorage Airport ($55 x 4= $$220) and then renting a vehicle at the airport ($40 x 3 days= $120) we came out ahead. ($220 + $120 = $340)

We chose taking the bus for a two-hour scenic trip to the Anchorage Airport in order to pickup a rental vehicle. The bus carries 40 passengers and we had an excellent driver who also served as a knowledgeable tour guide. He described the sights and shared with us the history of Alaska on the journey from Seward to Anchorage.

An Alaskan friend (formerly a Texan) suggested we sit on the left side of the bus for the trip, for this side would give us the best view. It was spectacular. From snow-covered mountains along the Turnagain Arm to glaciers and marshlands, we saw it all. The bus driver gave an exciting view of the area and pointed out many forms of wildlife along the way, including a large caribou standing in the marsh along the highway.

Arriving at the airport, we were able to quickly pick up our rented mini-van, loaded our luggage and off we went on our next adventure -- Denali National Park.

The farther we drove from Anchorage the higher the cost of gasoline. We normally do not choose the rental option of pre-paying for a tank of gas, but in this case it was a real bargain. We paid only $1.09 per gallon to bring back the car on an empty tank. Gasoline costs in the Denali area was$1.69 per gallon, in Anchorage $1.49.

Driving in Alaska is a breeze. Highways are well marked with very little traffic. We got a little piece of advise from a transplanted-Alaskan: Keep it between the ditches !