Split Journals

Bill in Croatia - SPLIT

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A May 2003 trip to Split by billmoy

Trogir Photo, Split, Croatia More Photos
Quote: Split is the largest Croatian city of the Dalmatian coast along the Adriatic Sea, and one of its most historic.

Bill in Croatia - SPLIT

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Overview

Split Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
Hang around the historic old town in Split, crammed within and around the former Palace of Diocletian. This vibrant cog is located adjacent to the pleasant cafe-lined waterfront. The main markets in Split sell all sorts of fresh foods and colorful goods, especially many versions of blue-and-red Hajduk Split soccer jerseys. I did not see any jerseys of former Chicago Bulls basketball star Toni Kukoc, one of Split's more recent imports. Split is a transportation hub for many of the mainland and island destinations along the Dalmatian coast. The schedules for the ferries and buses can vary wildly between the high and low seasons, so try to inquire direct at the ticket offices. The bus ri...Read More

Prenociste Slavija

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Hotel

Prenociste Slavija Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
The big selling point of this modest hotel is location, location, location. It is the only hotel set within the boundaries of the old historic center, which is to me the ideal area to reside in Split. In fact, we had tried to book it ahead of time, but they did not respond to our faxes (we did not try to call ahead though). We did make a beeline to the Slavija from the train station, which is only a few blocks away. They did have one opening for that day, but not for the next evening. Later on that night, we were pleasantly surprised to hear that an opening cleared and we therefore stayed two nights here. Initially, the old town will seem like a maze, but it will soon be very manageable once you...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Prenociste Slavija
Buvinova 2
Split, Croatia
(385) 2134-7053

Konoba Lucac

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Restaurant

Quote:
This dark local tavern is tucked away on a street just east of the main harbor. The entrance is fronted by a stand-up chalkboard with a few specials scribbled on it. The front room is the bar, which really makes you feel like you are in a European tavern. You can sit in a booth inside, or sit outside on the cramped back porch. The lunchtime crowd of local businessmen gravitates to this area, as they enjoy drinking, smoking, and yakking with the friendly hostess. The nondescript views overlook a parking lot and construction sites, so it is the food that matters here. The dinnertime crowd is definitely more subdued, and the porch area is very dimly lit in the evening. It was a bit surprising to se...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Konoba Lucac
Petrova 2
Split, Croatia
(385) 2149-0266

Pizza Cut Planet

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Restaurant

Quote:
This little fast-food joint seems to be the place to go to for the young locals. It is not a large place, with a deep red interior that you stand in to place your order. There are actually a few thin ledges, upon which you can enjoy your freshly made pizza slice, but the room frequently fills up and more often than not the ledges are merely for resting your bags while waiting for your order. The menu lists 21 choices of topping combinations (such as ham, mushrooms, tuna, shrimp, etc.), but most people just line up and order from the pizzas that are popping out of the oven. Now the frenzy begins, with an atmosphere that is akin to a day at the New York Stock Exchange. Well perhaps it is not as cr...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Pizza Cut Planet
Cajkovskoga 5
Split, Croatia
(385) 2134-7333

Bistro Lucica (Trogir)

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Restaurant

Quote:
This restaurant is actually located on Ciovo Island, which sandwiches the little island of Trogir with the mainland of Croatia. It is supposedly a popular hangout with the local fishermen, but we apparently came at an off-peak hour and had the outdoor patio to ourselves. I can well imagine a good crowd here on a warm summer evening, with locals lifting a beer while waiting for their meat to come off the grill. This restaurant is initially hard to spot, but you have to walk past Trogir and up the front thoroughfare of Ciovo before you spot the large sign on top of the establishment. There is an indoor dining room as well as the outdoor patio, which is covered by awnings. I ordered the...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Bistro Lucica (Trogir)
Kralja Tomislava
Split, Croatia
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Trogir

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Attraction

Trogir Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
Trogir is a very pleasant little side trip about 12 miles west of Split. There is debate about whether Trogir is an island or peninsula, but this quaint little land mass is just west of the "mainland" of Croatia, linked by bridges with Ciovo Island. There are only about 1500 residents in Trogir, so visitors can easily overrun it. Trogir is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Enter Trogir through the impressive Renaissance-era North Gate, topped by the patron St. Ivan Orsini. The central square is bordered by the Cathedral of St. Lawrence (Crkva sv. Lovre) and the town hall. The cathedral (built from 1213 to 1598) is fronted by the famous Romanesque-style Adam and Eve portal by Master Radovan (124...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 30, 2003

Trogir
Trogir (town 20 km west of Split)
Split, Croatia

Palace of Diocletian

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Attraction

Palace of Diocletian Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
Diocletian was a Roman Emperor who was actually born in the Dalmatia region. He had his summer and retirement villa designed as a fortress-like palace along the Adriatic Sea in Split around 300 AD. The complex included the imperial villa, temples, and the mausoleum (now the Split Cathedral). A few of Diocletian's successors enjoyed the retreat as well, with the original grounds of the palace measuring 705 by 590 feet. During the 7th Century, the grounds were occupied by refugees from the nearby Roman colony of Salona (now Solin). The new residents, who were hiding from Slavic invaders, felt safe and secure within the old walls. Their lives took root here and the city slowly grew within and around the ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Palace of Diocletian
Old Town Split
Split, Croatia

Cathedral and Bell Tower of St. Domnius

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Attraction

Cathedral and Bell Tower of St. Domnius Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
Diocletian (245 to 313 AD) was known in history as a sharp persecutor of Christians. It is now quite ironic that his very own mausoleum has become the main Cathedral of Split, the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world. The Cathedral and the Bell Tower are the centerpieces of old Split, along with the great space of the Peristyle adjacent to them. The octagonal Cathedral is surrounded by a now-imperfect colonnade of Corinthian columns and is flanked by a pair of small black granite sphinxes from about 15 BC. Andrija Buvina carved the solid wood main doorway, embellished by scenes from the life of Christ, in 1214. If you are used to enormous cathedrals, the domed interior will seem physically an...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Cathedral and Bell Tower of St. Domnius
Old Split
Split, Croatia

Old Split Sights & Attractions

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Attraction | "Other sights in old Split"

Old Split Sights & Attractions Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
The Palace of Diocletian occupies the eastern half of old Split, but there are other buildings of interest in this "open air museum". The old Town Hall, dating from the 15th century, bears a striking resemblance to many buildings found in Venice. Its pointed Venetian-style arcade helps it become the graceful landmark of the Narodni Trg, which is the main square or "pjaca". Today the old Town Hall houses the Ethnographic Museum with various historic artifacts. The marble-paved square itself is very pleasant, surrounded by an assortment of shops, cafes and ice cream stands. If you are lucky, you may encounter a group of fun-loving locals singing drinking songs that will make you think you are watc...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Old Split Sights & Attractions
Throughout Old Split
Split, Croatia

Marjan Park Hiking

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Attraction | "Marjan Park"

Marjan Park Hiking Photo, Split, Croatia
Quote:
If you have the time, a hike through Marjan Park is a nice change of pace. This lush and sizeable peninsula lies to the west of the old historic center. A good way to approach the hill is by walking west along the Riva and then heading up one of the little streets that leads to a stairway. This semi-formal set of stairs winds its way through the wooded hill, and fortunately there are periodic landings to catch your breath. Keep climbing the stairs until you get to a lookout that faces east and abuts the Jewish cemetery and a cafe. There is an angled path with benches that continues westward and upward. There is another intermediate level with a quaint little chapel that is dwarfed by gracefully tall a...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 27, 2003

Marjan Park Hiking
Marjan Park
Split, Croatia