For only 50c, you can take the tram (bonji) from downtown Rio, near the bizarre cathedral, up to Santa Teresa, an affluent suburb in the hills. Kids hang off the sides of the tram for kicks as it hurtles up the hills. The tram goes through some shabbily beautiful areas of Rio, with views on either side of the embankment on which the tracks run. You go past Ronnie Biggs's old house (if you're not English, that'll be meaningless, but if you are English, I don't need to add anything), and end up in Santa Teresa in the hills. This is a very nice area indeed, with 19th-century pastel-colored houses around cobble squares, popular with Rio's yuppies -- sort of Rio's Montmatre. It has some fun bars and restau
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