If you get completely overloaded with the tourist shops in Lahaina – same old Tshirts in every store, same expensive food in every restaurant, same Hawaiiana kitsch and snooty art galleries – take the time to focus your attention on some of the great historical and cultural spots. They are mixed right in with the tourist junk, so you will have to concentrate in order to get into the history and leave the rest behind.
I found that brochures for the walking tour were actually hard to come by. Therefore, I will give you the brochure information word for word, along with a map, so you will be sure not to miss what is truly great in Lahaina.
The brochure is called "Lahaina, A Walking Tour of Historic and Cultural Sights" and it is published by The Lahaina Restoration Foundation (LRF) for County of Maui Historic Commission. Maybe this will save them a few pennies on printing costs. . .
Use the numbered map to make your way around town, looking for the brown-colored numbered signs at each site. Some of the numbered spots are actual buildings, etc., and some are just the site of something that used to be (indicated below).
1. THE MASTERS’ READING ROOM stands at the corner of Front and Dickerson and was restored by The LRF in 1970. Originally a store-room for missionaries, whaling ship captains converted it to a downtown "officers’ club" in 1834. It now serves as the headquarters of the LRF. Its unique, coral block and and field-stone construction has been preserved exactly as originally built.
2. The two-story BALDWIN HOME was the home of the Protestant medical missionary, Dwight Baldwin, and his family from the mid-1830s to 1868. The house served as a medical office, and as a general center for missionary activity, with a seamen’s chapel and Christian reading rooms for ships’ masters and men nearby. The Baldwins had a fine garden of native and introduced plants: Kukui, kou, banana, guava, figs, and grape arbors. The home and grounds were restored by The LRF in the early 1960s, complete with many pieces of original furniture and other antiques of the period. (Museum open daily.)
3. (site only) William Richards was the first Protestant missionary to Lahaina, and the RICHARDS HOUSE was the first coral stone house in the islands, on the site of the present Campbell Park. Richards left the mission in the mid-1830s, to work directly for the kingdom as chaplain, teacher, and translator to King Kamehameha III. He helped draw up the constitution, traveled to the United States and Europe as the king’s envoy, seeking recognition of the kingdom’s independence, and served as the Minister of Education.
4. (site only) The remnants of a substantial TARO PATCH, called Kapukaiao, were visible as late as the 1950s. Kamehameha III is said to have worked there, to show his subjects the dignity of labor.
5. The HAUOLA STONE is popularily believed to have been used by the Hawaiians as a healing place.
6. (site only) The BRICK PALACE, built around the year 1800 by two ex-convicts from the British penal colony at Botany Bay, Australia, was almost certainly the first western building in the islands. It was made of locally-produced brick. Constructed at the command of Kamehameha I, it was used intermittently as a storehouse and a residence until the 1850s. The cornerstones and foundation have been excavated and a display built by the LRF for the Maui County Historic Commission.
7. The CARTHAGINIAN is a replica of a 19th century brig, typical of the small, fast freighters that brought the first commerce to the Sandwich Isles. Authentically square-rigged, the ship features an exhibit on whales and whaling with colorful audio-visual displays and an original whaleboat dicovered in Alaska and returned to Lahaina in 1973. (Museum open daily.) The OLD LAHAINA LIGHTHOUSE fronting the Pioneer Inn in Lahaina was first commissioned by Kamehameha III in 1840 as an aid to navigation for whaleboats coming ashore for R&R. It began as a nine foot wooden tower that was increased to 26 feet in 1866. The light was provided by a whale oil lamp, kept burning by a Hawaiian caretaker (who was paid $20 per year!). It was rebuilt in 1905 and the present concrete structure was dedicated by the US Coast Guard in 1916. Thus, this light was the first in the Hawaiian Islands and predates any lighthouse on the US Pacific Coast.
8. The PIONEER INN’S original section fronting the harbor dates from 1901. Additional rooms and shops were added in 1965, but this extension was carefully built to match the style of the original. It served as the only visitor accommodation in West Maui until the late 1950s. The stern old turn-of-the-century regulations for guests are still posted in the rooms.
9. The BANYAN TREE, more than sixty feet high and casting shade on two-thirds of an acre, was planted in April, 1873, to mark the fiftiesth anniversary of the beginning of Protestant missionary work in Lahaina.
10. The COURTHOUSE was built with stones from the demolished Hale Piula. It served as a custom-house as well, and was the center of anti-smuggling activity during the whaling era. Here in August, 1898, the Hawaiian flag was lowered and the American flag was raised, marking the formal annexation of the islands by the United States.
11. The reconstucted remains of part of the waterfront FORT stands in the corner of banyan park. The fort was built in the early 1830s after some sailors lobbed cannonballs at the town during an argument with Protestant missionaries over the visits of native women to ships. Visitors thought the fort looked as of it were built more for show than force. It was used mostly as a prison, and was torn down in the 1850s to supply stones for the construction of Hale Pa’ahao.
12. (site only) Lahaina had no natural harbor like Honolulu’s, only an open roadstead, and the whaler’s small "chase boats" had to come in from the deep-water offshore anchorage to trade. When the surf was up, they often had trouble beaching. In the early 1840s, the United States consular representative dug a CANAL to a basin near the market, and charged a fee for its use. After a few years, the government took over the canal and built a thatched market house with stalls – which almost immediately burned down. The canal was filled up in 1913.
13. (site only) At the GOVERNMENT MARKET, all trade between natives and ships was carried on. "These are the things which I strictly forbid," ran the edict of Princess Nahi’ena’ena in 1833, "overcharging, underselling…wrangling, breaking of bargains, enticing, pursuing, chasing a boat, greediness…I hereby forbid women from going to the market enclosure, for the purpose of sightseeing or to stand idly by . . ." Despite this, the area around the market was noted for its gamy activities, and was called Rotten Row.
14. The EPISCOPAL CHURCH in the islands was founded in 1862. The present building dated from 1927, and is notable for an alter painting depicting a Hawaiian Madonna and colorful endemic plants and birds.
15. (site only)HALE PIULA, "iron-roof house," a large two-story stone building with a surrounding piazza, was built in the late 1830s as a palace for Kamehameha III. It was not a success. In fact, it was never finished. The king preferred to sleep in a small thatch hut nearby. By the mid-1840s, the king and his advisors were spending more time at Honolulu than Lahaina, and Hale Piula fell into disrepair. It was used as a courthouse for some time, and after a gale damaged it badly in 1858, its stones were used to build the present courthouse.
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