Centuries of history unfold as you visit the Alfama, the old Moorish section of Lisbon. As you navigate the labyrinth of narrow twisted streets, with wall to wall houses, it is amazing that this picturesque old quarter survived the great earthquake of 1755.
This section of the city housed Lisbon's nobility during the Middle Ages. Later, it became home to the craftsfolks, fishermen and seafarers, and for a time, was even the 'red light district' of the city. Today, it houses those at the bottom of the income ladder, yet a quaint charm prevails.
Despite the obvious poverty, one feels that this area is truly alive! Canaries singing in windows high above the street, red geraniums trailing from window boxes in each alleyway and the excited laughter of children as they ride their 'big wheels' down the cobbled lane--narrowly missing a 'wipe-out' at each precarious turn.
Fountains and frescoes can be found around every corner and ceramic tile serves as an important element of decoration throughout the area. Here, once again, we see again tiny tiles painstakingly arranged into designs forming walkways under our feet. House fronts painted in bright yellows and oranges, next to facades covered with designs of intricately arranged tiles.
The busiest street was the Rua de Sao Pedro where there are shops, street vendors , cafes and restaurants. We found shops offering delicately hand-painted ceramic tiles at very reasonable prices. These carefully wrapped purchases proved to be welcome souvenirs for our friends back home.
At the North -west edge of the quarter, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia offers a fantastic view of the jumble of houses below. It is from here that I could not help but wonder if the inhabitants of this crowded little area feel the same quaint charm that appealed so much to me as a tourist.