City of Angels

I've been to LA seven or eight times in the past couple years, and I've reached the point that I begin to miss it if I don't stop in every few months. It is an enormous, sprawling, polluted, and entirely overwhelming city, initially. It's also a jolting change from other places in America--many of the women really are tan and blonde and big-busted, people really are more plastic-surgerized, and everyone really does seem obsessed with their cars and clothes. This is only one very small aspect of LA, however (it just happens to be the flashy, famous, attention-seeking aspect).

The city is actually a seething mass of myriad cultures, varied dining, an exploding art scene, music for all tastes, up-and-coming neighborhoods, hills to hike in, and beautiful golden beaches to lie on. There are a gazillion neighborhoods, each with a distinct feel, and a gazillion more daytrips further out of the center. And of course there's that blue, blue sky (even in February) and those tall, tall palm trees.

Make sure you:

-- Get out of the city and into the hills. One of my favorite hikes is through the Hollywood Hills, where you can check out all the mansions and stunning views of the LA basin. Once perched high above Beachwood canyon, you reach an entrance to the Hollywood Reservoir, which looks like an enormous aqua-marine mirror. There's a paved 3-mile path around the reservoir that has several other outlets, as well.
-- Go the Norton Simon Museum to see the top-notch collection and exhibitions (and quiet central garden which was modeled after Monet's in Giverny). Pasadena itself is a pleasant, quiet oasis from LA. (See Norton Simon for details.)
--Visit LACMA, arguably the most important museum in LA (and which I like much more than the Getty), which covers 6 buildings and a verdant campus in Mid-Wilshire, and has many of the same exhibitions as the Met in New York. It also has films, lectures, a gallery, a couple cafes, and myriad arts activities (see LACMA for details).
--The MOCA/Geffen Contemporary is a must-see if you have any interest in contemporary art (you'll also get to meander through downtown LA and Little Tokyo while visiting). The MOCA ticket (which is just 7 blocks away on 2nd and Grand) will get you into both MOCA and MOCA/Geffen, so if you have time, you mind as well see both. (MOCA)
-- Go to Quality Cafe for brunch.
-- Go to the LA Observatory, which is perched above Los Feliz. It's a great venue for a show--or just to check out the glittering view of the LA basin.
-- Check out the new Walt Disney Concert Hall, a stunning addition to downtown LA, which looks like a smaller, silver version of the Sydney Opera House. It opens for concerts in October.
-- Head to some of the less-touristed galleries in Santa Monica, or the Armond Hammer Museum, which frequently has good contemporary exhibitions.
-- Have an apple martini at Chateau Marmont for a taste of the glitzy LA scene.
-- Take a walk through Los Feliz or Silver Lake, two neighborhoods which have recently been annointed as the cool places to live in LA.

Quick Tips:

-- If you can see a show at the El Rey Theater, go! It's one of the oldest venues in Hollywood, and lots of interesting bands play there now (mostly indie).
--Check out Johnie's (Mid-Wilshire), which is ONLY used for filming, even though it appears to be an ordinary old-fashioned diner. (If you're a Big Lebowski fan, you may recognize the interior.)
-- Go to Birds for dinner some night (or one of the 4 or 5 other restaurants on the same block), sit outside under the heat lamps, and listen to the traffic whir past on Franklin Avenue.
--Both the USC and UCLA campuses are worth seeing--they're in South Central and Westwood, respectively. Each is sylvan and beautifully kept up.
-- Instead of going to Santa Monica beach (which is huge, but usually polluted with obnoxious teenagers), drive up the PCH (Highway 1) to Will Rogers Beach, which is pristine and beautiful. If you continue up the 1 to Malibu, the drive alone will be worth it, whether you stop at a beach or not. Supposedly "Hidden Beach" is just north of Malibu . . . but it's apparently very hidden, because we still haven't found it.

Best Way To Get Around:

L.A. is a massive, sprawling city. You need a car. There's no getting around it. The bus system is OK if you're in a pinch, but not comprehensive or fast. The one bus system I found decent was the DART, which runs down Franklin Avenue between Hollywood and Los Feliz.

You can walk within neighborhoods (but even on smaller streets people stared at me like I had just escaped a mental ward), but to get between them driving is the easiest way (and by easiest I don't mean "easy," either -- you'll have to fight traffic, make up creative routes around traffic, sit in traffic, and ride in traffic when traffic is actually moving).

LA has spent lots of time and money installing an underground metro system, which essentially brings people from the southern suburbs into downtown Hollywood, and--as my friend jokes--all the weirdos from downtown LA to Hollywood Boulevard, safely and efficiently.

Spago is exactly what one would expect it to be: pretentious, beautiful, and expensive. The food is innovative and gorgeous to look at, the dining space and garden are elegant and airy, and the service is absolutely impeccable. Dining at Spago really does feel like a big event--it's not hard to imagine the limousines rolling up and wine glasses clinking at one of the most exclusive Oscar after-parties (which is held here).

Even if you have a reservation, expect to wait 10 to 15 minutes at the bar if it's a weekend night. After a libation in the sleek honey-colored bar area (where there'll be eye candy galore--agents, brokers, dressed-up dates, aging socialites...), you'll be led by a nubile hostess into the large and airy dining area. It has a surprisingly casual feel once inside: high arched ceilings, curved booths lining the walls, the same golden wood as in the bar, and more waiters scurrying around than you could possibly think needed.

The menu consists of Wolfgang Puck's mostly Californian/Continental concoctions, created by chef de cuisine Thomas Boyce. First courses include such items as tempura Chesapeake Bay soft-shell crab (with pickled ginger vinaigrette); sizzling Bouchot mussels marinière; and a "tasting" of Hudson Valley foie gras. Or, for a whiz-bang starter, try the Russian 000 Beluga caviar {1 oz.} for $120. I had the salt-roasted baby beet salad with fresh burata, arugula, and candied walnuts, which was sweet and delicate and served with a citrus-shallot dressing.

The main courses include five or six fish options, a couple of duck choices, a lamb and a chicken entrée, and a côte de boeuf. Entrées include sautéed black bass with ragout of fava beans and ramps; crispy Cantonese-style roasted duck with ginger, star anise, and black garnet cherries; and slow-braised beef short ribs with caramelized shallots. I had the pan-roasted Alaskan halibut with ragout of English peas, wild Morel mushrooms, confit bacon, sweet pea puree, and mascarpone--and it was amazing. The sweet pea puree was very sweet, and added to the mascarpone it created a sweet, creamy emulsion; this in contrast with the flaky fish was nothing short of orgasmic.

In both the first and main courses, there are a couple starred selections, which are "Wolfgang's favorite childhood recipes." These are simple Austrian recipes, such as Kärntner käse nudeln (giant Farmers? cheese ravioli) with hazelnut brown butter and mache; weinerschnitzel; or spicy beef goulash with sautéed spätzle. There is also a "Chef's Tasting Menu" for the entire table, which includes eight courses ($95, with wine pairings $150).

Spago is an LA institution, symbolic of celebrity, money, and the high life. The food is delicious, but really, things can only taste so good, and then you're paying for the atmosphere. But this is a grandiose event, from the valet parking to the cavernous bathrooms. I'm happy I got a chance to try it for a graduation celebration, as I'll probably never be able to afford to eat here again.

Quality is one of my favorite brunch places in LA. The cuisine is a combination of Mexican and American diner fare, and the menu has everything from breakfast (whole wheat pancakes, omelettes, home fries with eggs) to sandwiches to beans and rice (with guacamole and sour cream on a hot bed of spicy home fries--delicious).

It's located on 3rd Street in West Hollywood, so it's a convenient stop after either the Farmers' Market (3rd and Fairfax), the Melrose Flea Market, or LACMA. There are five or six tables outside, which are great for people watching (we saw the hairiest man I've ever seen in my life cruise by in biker shorts), or if you want to smoke. Otherwise you can take a seat inside, which with its mint walls and Art Deco lights, has a very 50s Hollywood feel. Quality is definitely upscale (with a hip clientele), but it's still casual and relaxed enough to be a good place to read the paper.

I had the banana whole wheat pancakes, which were nice and grainy and very tasty, and also an enormous cappuccino served in a bowl. Someone else had a club sandwich, another had a huge fluffy omelette, and one had huevos rancheros on home fries. Everything was delicious and perfectly prepared (especially those light, perfect omelettes)--well hell, it was Quality (hahaha). It's not the cheapest place for brunch, but it's one of the best. (Another forerunner is King's Road Café, located just up the street.)

Right next door to Quality is A.O.C., a new wine bar and restaurant opened by Caroline Styne (who owns Lucques on Melrose as well). I haven't had the chance to try it yet, but is supposedly a French-style tapas bar and restaurant. The space is lovely--gold and nicely lit with banquette-style leather benches. But beware, it's closed for lunch. There are a couple photos of it below.

Miyagi's is famous for two things. One is its location--an enormous three-storied multi-room restaurant right on the Sunset Strip. You can sit outside, basking under the neon lights of the advertisements and stores, and watch the traffic sail past beside you. It has seven bars, six sushi bars, and myriad waterfalls. Miyagi's second claim to fame is its "Monday Night Madness"--from 7pm to 10pm there is all-you-can-eat sushi for $20. Not a bad deal.

Reservations are recommended for Monday evenings, but that only involves leaving your name and number on their machine--once done, you're guaranteed a spot. We sat outside at a spacious table in the corner and had Asahi and plum wine while entering our first round of sushi. You get the standard white sheet where you select the type of sushi, and then hand them in to the waiter in batches.

The wait time is probably a little longer than usual due to the large number of people ordering more than they could ever eat, but the interim is filled by complimentary miso soup and a house salad (with a carrot-ginger dressing). At first we found this generous, but then realized that it was probably a ploy fill us up more than any true altruism on their part. One family member didn't allow himself to fall for it and refused all pre-sushi snacks (he's a discerning man).

The sushi finally did arrive in mixed batches. It's hard to tell who orders what and which batch is coming when, but as it's all free, it really doesn't matter. You'll end up eating more sushi than you'll want to eat ever again. The fish wasn't the very best I've ever had, but it was of high quality. The atmosphere is pretty jovial, and ordering as much sushi as you possibly can without even glancing at the price is incredibly liberating, especially for those who can't get never get enough raw fish.

The MOCA/Geffen Contemporary (or "Temporary Contemporary") is hidden behind the Japanese American Cultural Center in Little Tokyo, just seven or eight blocks from MOCA. It only shows a couple artists at a time, so one's enjoyment of it is almost completely dependent on the highlighted artists. Only fairly big names appear, however, and so it's a pretty good bet for an enjoyable exhibition. Plus, the space is fun to see. I happened to stumble in on a fantastic show--Juan Muñoz (with Yutaka Sone in the open outdoor area).

The Geffen is a warehouse-like, cavernous space, separated by 3/4 walls and a raised platform. It was the perfect setting for Juan Muñoz--almost eerie and enough open space to feel deserted--who plays with presence, felt absences, and vacantness. His Hanging Figure (1997) is haunting; it was inspired by a Degas painting (Miss La La at the Cirque Fernando) that takes its perspective from below. Here, one looks up at a figure dangling from a rope on the ceiling by his teeth, and the matte grey body twists ever so slightly back and forth.

The most striking of all, though, was Many Times (2000)--MOCA shows all 100 of the original figures upon a raised platform, behind Hanging Figure. They are painted in the same matte grey, and arranged in such a fashion that they appear to be in a town square or plaza--some are talking, others looking up at something the viewer can't see, others strolling. One can walk up among them, and upon further inspection, one notices that they're all missing feet. They each have on identical Mao-era coats and pants, colorless eyes, and similar expressions--giving a sterile, frozen, and inaccessible feel. One can see them gesturing, yet can't fathom what they're talking about. It flips the traditional art-for-the-audience motif, and the viewer tries in vain to access the figures.

Yutaka Sone's Jungle Island (2003) is located outside in the open-air annex, which has white marble models of four separate LA freeway interchanges hidden amongst a jungle of plants and trees and a small web of cedar chip trails (which smell delicious). The context shows the interchanges as "flowers in the city"--or in an urban jungle--especially meaningful to a city so defined by automobiles.

There's a tiny bookstore that's packed with lots of interesting books and magazines, and single cooler where you can purchase a drink.

The current show only lasts until July 27th, and upcoming shows are TBA (check MOCA). There are extended hours on Thursday evening, and Thursdays are free for everyone (but it'll be a little busier).

Tues.-Wed., Friday-Sun., 11am-5pm; Thurs. 11am to 8pm.
$8 general; $5 students and seniors; under 12 free. Free to all on Thursday.

Los Feliz has a certain vibe, sort of a 50s Hollywood retro-hipster feel: brightly colored stores in mint and orange, the names of restaurants and buildings in California script, bunches of orange and lemon trees, and wide, breezy avenues. The people sitting at the outdoor tables are mostly in vintage garb, as well, adding to the time warp to old-Hollywood appeal of the area. There's no doubt that it's hip - boutiques and cafes abound - but it's not expensive enough to exclude young actors, artists, and musicians, who give it a certain throb of youth culture.

Downtown Los Feliz consists basically of Vermont Ave. and Hillhurst Ave., bound on the north by Franklin Ave. and on the south by Hollywood Blvd. (as well as the surrounding residential area). While walking around, make sure to check out the Los Feliz Goodwill, located just off Hillhurst on Hollywood Blvd. Its prices are similar to most Goodwills (but cheaper than those in New York), and it has a LA flair in its selection, which includes bizarre 80s tanks and shirts, pastel high heels, 60s dresses in garish colors... treasures for any thrift-seeker. Also, the Hollywood Hills Cafe recently relocated to Los Feliz (after a long stint in Hollywood), which is the perfect setting for its hipster vibe and fantastic food.

If you have an inkling to see a movie, the mint Los Feliz Theater (which has an ornate 50s marquee) is a great place to watch one. There's also a bookstore, a post office, lots of fancy little restaurants, outdoor cafes, and nice wide sidewalks for strolling. Once you hit Hollywood Blvd. (and leave downtown Los Feliz), you feel like you've exited a quaint southern California neighborhood and re-entered LA.

The best way to get there, if you want the scenic route, is to drive (or walk) east on Franklin Ave. As you leave Hollywood, the apartment buildings turn into stately mansions set back from the road with ornate landscaping and brilliant bougainvilleas climbing over white walls. When the road becomes flat again, and old-fashioned apartment complexes (with such names as "The Palms" and "The Teri-Lyn") abound, you've entered Los Feliz.

There's an inundation of fun and trendy bars in the area, too--from dives that are so Midwest they're cool to Asian-inspired opium dens (sans opium). A couple include:

Ye Rustic Inn
1831 Hillhurst Ave.
An old-school, divey bar--it even has the ever-popular stucco exterior with brown faux-Alpine woodwork. A fun place to drink hard without feeling guilty.

Good Luck Bar
1514 Hillhurst Ave.
All red--red cushions, red booths, red lights--makes for a sexy, dim bar. Good Luck is always a good place to get reasonable drinks, and it's a popular date spot. Kind of a meet-market on weekends, but it makes up for it in character.

8221 Sunset Strip
West Hollywood
323/656-1010
Chateau Marmont

"If you're going to get into trouble, do it at the Chateau Marmont." -- Harry Cohn, director of Columbia Pictures, 1939

Chateau Marmont is one of my favorite shnazzy destinations in LA. I'm not a huge fan of overpriced and annoyingly trendy places, but Chateau actually supports its title as one of the fanciest places in LA--it's low-key, elegant, and beautiful, tucked away in a heavily treed enclave which hovers right above the Sunset Strip. It's famous for its decadent atmosphere and its spacious bungalows (where John Belushi died of a heroin overdose in 1982).

Its lush gardens and arcaded lobby has a certain Gothic ambience--it may be the wrought-iron chandeliers, the arches, or the maze-like layout of the bar and hotel. It was actually built in 1927, and rented as luxury apartments at the time. Rooms range from very expensive to unaffordable, and so you'll need to be a fancy pants to stay here (or a poseur). The people wandering in and out of the lobby and elevators range from middle-aged aristocrats to scraggly musicians who're in town for the night--all of them, though, are very hip and very rich.

There is a restaurant on site which is supposedly quite good and which is definitely very expensive. You can also have drinks on little tables which are nestled in the verdant courtyard (even if you're not staying there). Oh, and Howard Hughes used to rent the entire penthouse to ensure a good view of the lovely ladies swimming below him in this same courtyard.

If I'm going to have a $12 martini in LA, I'll definitely head to the Bar Marmont to do it. They have an apple martini that is delicious (and potent), which is served with a shaker that contains a refill (so hell, they're each only $6). There are always a lot of well-dressed people sipping upscale libations, all of whom have the appearance of not wanting to be recognized. There are supposedly also many celebrity sightings (it's allegedly a favorite of Leonardo DiCaprio and lots of rock stars), but I have yet to notice one.

The ceiling is partially covered in realistic-looking butterflies, giving it an exotic fancy-British-hotel-in-the-Congo vibe (or perhaps that's just a personal fascination with ex-pat lifestyles?). The lighting is barely extant, and the bar has high stools and expert bartenders. Several little tables and enclaves cluster the bar, if you're seeking refuge from fame's spotlight. There's also a small room off the bar which serves tasty vittles.

If you're going to stay at an expensive hotel in LA, Chateau Marmont is probably your classiest and coolest option--I'd take it over the Standard any day--it's more camouflaged than outré (with plenty of places to hide), classier, and much darker, in every sense of the word.

Luckily, I have these photos to share. As soon as I snapped the two of the courtyard, a woman sprinted up to me shouting (in French accent, no less), "Excuse me, Miss! Mieeess!! There are NO pictures at the Chateau Marmont!!!" Whoops. I gave her a little salute, and cruised out the door.

Hollywood has been recently revitalized by several things - the redevelopment of the Hollywood and Vine area (or the commodification...it's unclear), which included the new Hollywood & Highland entertainment complex (an outdoor mall), a new metro system, a plethora of new neon marquee-style lit stores and clubs, and the re-establishment of the Oscars at its original venue, the Egyptian theater (on Hollywood Blvd.).

The Hollywood Hills, just a bit north, is a beautiful area to explore and hike. If you walk straight up Beachwood Avenue (from Franklin), actually, you'll enter directly into the twisting, climbing streets, studded with mansions and Mercedes (and if you go high enough, an entrance to the Hollywood Reservoir). You really can't get lost, because no matter how high you go, there are hardly any actual outlets - you'll end up winding your way back down, ending up on Scenic Drive, Gower, or Beachwood.

About a mile up Beachwood is the original stone entrance to "Hollywoodland" - circa 1927. Originally a retirement settlement that was never fully completed, "Hollywoodland" was eventually truncated to just "Hollywood" after the "-land" from the famous sign was removed, as it was an unlucky 13 letters long (and people were beginning to habitually choose it as a prime spot to jump to their deaths).

If you're near Franklin Avenue and the 101, on the border of Hollywood and the Hollywood Hills, make sure to stop at the 101 Cafe (located in the Hollywood Hills Hotel), which has some of the best diner food in LA. There's also a short strip on Franklin between Beachwood Ave. and Mayfair Market (whatta grocery store--80s rock stars and beautiful ladies descend from their houses in the hills to pick up toilet paper and milk) which has a cluster of nice bars and restaurants. Birds is one of the best and liveliest bar/restaurants in the area (with a restaurant specializing in, well, birds--i.e. chicken), but try to avoid weekends, as it gets too packed and attracts an annoying weekend crowd.

Back in downtown Hollywood, for a taste of the bizarro, you could always check out the L. Ron Hubbard Life Exhibition (6331 Hollywood Blvd.), open 'til 10pm. I'd have gone, but I was too afraid the Scientologists would get my face on camera and track me down. (The Scientology "Celebrity Center" is just a few blocks away.)

Hollywood also has a wealth of trendy new bars (the older ones are seedier and reminiscent of Hollywood Blvd.'s darker days). Some of the newcomers are annoying, packed with wannabe actresses and their followers, but others are quite cool, some even venturing into the ironic (in LA!?). Here are a few:

Daddy's
1610 N. Vine St.
A dark, spacious bar with leather booths spread throughout the space and fairly good music. Be careful, however, I have known people who have been not-so-nicely escorted out for drunken behavior.
Cat and Fiddle
Sunset and Las Palmas
Inside it has a standard bar feel, and is really nothing special. The outdoor seating area, however, is fantastic for a warm spring evening (well, it's LA--a warm evening in any season, I suppose). It's almost completely hidden from the road, and once you enter the gate, it widens into a square, stone courtyard with trees, twinkle lights, and lots of little tables.
Vine
1235 Vine St. (off of Hollywood Blvd.)
A mint, narrow bar with rectangular booths and a nice wine selection. It offers vittles as well. Better for a date than a raucous night out.
The Burgundy Room
1621 1/2 La Cuhuenga Blvd.
A long, very dark, narrow bar, which you usually have to excuse yourself through in order to find a small place to stand. The people are all usually well on their way to being WASted, however, and are pretty accommodating. It's mostly standing-room, and good place to strike up random conversations with strangers.
The Tiki Lounge
7910 W. 3rd St.
Located in a strip mall that looks like every other one-story strip mall in LA, the Tiki Bar is surprisingly happening on a weekend night. It's a bit of a meet-market, but they have tasty drinks and a lively crowd which often makes a stop for at least an hour or so worth it.
Beauty Bar
1638 La Cuhuenga Blvd.
If you've been to the Beauty Bar in San Francisco, or in New York, it's about the same scene, if a bit more LA-ified. It's very mint, the people are very mod, and the entire scene is oh-so-ironic.
Skybar
8440 Sunset Strip
This actually West Hollywood, on top of the Mondrian Hotel. Very expensive, pretentious, and slick. Very hard to get into on a weekend--make sure you're dressed to the nines or with a celebrity. If you're into that kind of thing, this is probably one of the best choices in town.
The Standard
8300 Sunset Blvd.
323/650-9090
West Hollywood as well. Although it's on the Sunset Strip, which tends to cheezify most bars, the Standard lounge is located in the lobby of the ultra-hip Standard hotel, where the young, rich, and famous love to stay. Upon entering the glass doors, you're greeted by a bored-looking young nymph in her underwear, lying behind glass, usually reading a magazine.

The lounge has a funky seating area (busy for afternoon cocktails by day), a large outdoor poolside patio, and one of the best views of LA in the city. Sunset is especially nice, when the lights of the LA basin start to twinkle, the drinks start flowing more freely, and the music gets turned up a couple notches. Wednesday nights are good for music and dancing, but it's tough to gain entrance (unless you're famous). Beware of drink prices.

(Also--if you're in the mood pay $12 for a burger, come to the restaurant here... they're delicious. The Shiraz is good, too. And allegedly, Billy Bob Thornton used to come in regularly and try to get the waitresses to sell him one of their 50s zip-all-the-way-up uniforms for Angelina Jolie).

Here are some extra photos of the LA area that didn't fit into the other journals.

The Liquor Mart sign is in Los Feliz.

The gumdrop trees are in Hollywood.

The lifeguard stand is in Malibu.

Johnie's is in Mid-Wilshire.