Corfu - A Gem of an Island

I arrived on Protomayia (1 May), a national holiday that Corfiots celebrate with a trip to the countryside to pick wildflowers which they make into wreaths to decorate doorways and buildings.

The island is incredibly green, lush, and hilly and bus rides to Paleokastritsa on the west coast and Kassiopi on the north were unforgettably scenic trips along winding, narrow mountain roads, each curve revealing yet another beautiful sandy beach with clear water in various shades of blue.

Although famous for its fine beaches, Corfu has lots of cultural activities too. In Corfu Town a fascinating mix of historical sites and narrow lanes lined with small shops kept me happily entertained. I rode the tourist train for an historical overview and then went back to explore the sights in more detail on my own. I found Corfu to be one big photo opportunity, especially at places like the tiny chapel of Panagia Vlaherna and I could have happily spent weeks photographing and exploring this fascinating island.

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Luckily, the hotel was actually located at the edge of a well to do residential subdivision, a few blocks up from the harbor so it was very quiet at night.

The three story hotel has been managed for over 20 years by Raul Pavlicek and his wife. The property is very well maintained with extensive gardens filled with palm trees, bougainvillea and a colorful mix of flowering plants and bushes. The large swimming pool wasn’t yet open but I was just as happy with the privacy of my own balcony, complete with table and chairs and a rolling cloth awning. This let me control the amount of sun or shade and I didn’t need to turn on the air-conditioning.

The room itself was simply decorated with wooden furniture but it was large with two twin beds pushed together to form a double and lots of closet space. There was a small fridge stocked with pop and beer - all reasonably priced at one euro per can and there was also space in the fridge for my own groceries. A couple of end tables, chairs and TV rounded out the bedroom furnishings. The TV only got a few channels and all were in Greek until 9pm when an English movie (with Greek subtitles) came on. The bathroom was average size with a white shower and toilet and a green pedestal sink but it was clean and there was plenty of hot water.

Breakfast was included in the room price and was served in the main floor salon between 8 and 9:30am. It consisted of fresh breads, jams, a tiny wedge of cheese, orange juice, and coffee or tea. The salon also served snacks and Greek salads. There were lots of tables and chairs nearby where guests could relax with a book or magazine from the hotel library although most were either German or Greek.

Raul showed me an alternate route into town -- through the residential subdivision and past tavernas that catered more to locals than tourists and away from the busy road. Most of the tavernas didn’t open until 8:30 but there was a small grocery store about two blocks from the hotel so I could easily put together a picnic supper when I wanted to eat earlier. The hotel was about a 10 minute walk from the ferry port and the long distance bus station that served the rest of the island and the mainland. The walk into the heart of Corfu Town took about 20 minutes.

This hotel is one of the nicer budget options in Corfu Town and the pool and breakfast make this a good choice for families. My single room cost 25 euros per night, and high season doubles go for 70 euros, including breakfast.

The chapel is dark and refreshingly cool on a hot day and is filled with silver chalices, religious icons, and painted wall and ceiling frescoes. In the basement of the monastery is an old olive oil press and the monks will sometimes give demonstrations on how olive oil is made. Inside the main courtyard is a wishing well filled with coins and a wooden board and mallet that is used to call the monks to prayer. The monastery is a very peaceful and relaxing place, overflowing with flowers, grape vines, bougainvillea, etc. and offers sweeping views of the coastline. It is open from 7am to 1pm and 3pm to 8pm daily. There is no admission fee although donations are gratefully accepted.

Paleokastritsa’s other heavenly attraction is its clean sandy beach with incredibly clear, warm water ideal for swimming. The main beach is below the monastery and is separated from the road into town by a low cement wall. The beach is narrow but that doesn’t detract for its popularity, especially with families because the calm, shallow water is great for kids. At each end of the beach are boats offering excursions to the nearby caves and grottos. There were also signs for glass bottom boat trips but none were running - probably too early in the season. Across the road signs lead to the less crowded Ampilaki Beach, a combination of sand and rocks with a dive center and paddle boat rental nearby.

Paleokastritsa is easy to get to. I took a bus from the New Port station in Corfu and the cost was 1.60 euros each way for the 45-minute ride. The road follows the coast north of Corfu Town for a little way and then heads across the island through lush green countryside. There were only four buses per day to Paleokastritsa but I think that number would increase during the summer.

Our guide was a jovial, friendly man who made sure everyone had time to take pictures and although his German was better than his English, I had no trouble understanding his commentary. The rock formations along the coast are home to many small caves and grottos and the boat was small enough that we could go into a few of them. One of the caves was called Nausica Cave, named after the daughter of the King of the Phaeacians who supposedly found legendary hero Odysseus and nursed him back to health. The walls of the cave near the waterline are a deep wine color - partly due to the lack of sun and the seaweed. Another cave called Blue Eye has a patch of incredibly blue water that is meant to resemble an eye.

We passed by Monkey Face Hill where an outcropping of rock closely resembles the side profile of an ape. Crossing water that was at times 40 feet deep, we could see the Monastery of Panagia Theotokos perched on the hill above us and in the distance, Bella Vista hill with its cluster of houses and the remains of a 12th century fort above them.

Although the boats use gasoline, the water is incredibly clear and we could see small schools of tiny silvery fish darting along as we came back to the dock.

The boats run continuously every day and it’s a nice way to relax and see some of the coastline. There is no shade in the boats so you may want to take a hat because even a half hour trip on the water can cause quite a sun burn.

The wooden drawbridge has been replaced by a paved walkway over the moat that leads to the Main Gate, built in 1550. Near the entrance is a Byzantine gallery, a small museum and a gift shop that sells copies of Byzantine and early Greek jewelry, statues and books on the history of Corfu. Proceeds from gift shop sales go to the Archaeological Resources Fund. The gallery has paintings from as early as the 1st century, a section of a marble chancel rail, parchment manuscripts with painstakingly detailed artwork and some well preserved floor mosaics from the basilica of Paleopolis, Corfu’s original city dating from 750 BC. The museum displays drawings of the old and new Forts and copies of Corfu maps throughout the ages, including the oldest known map dating from 1422.

The Fort is quite extensive with lots of opportunities to wander along its walls and enjoy expansive views of town and the incredibly clear water in Garitsa Bay. A lighthouse stands at the highest point in the Fortress and along the way is the Church of Ayios Georgios. Although the Church was built during English rule in the 1800s it looks more like an ancient temple with its five Doric columns. The interior is filled with wall and ceiling frescoes. Nearby is the Old Fortress Cafe which is a bit pricey but the shady tables are a wonderful place to take a break and enjoy the view. A Roman Chapel called Madonna Dei Carmini had marble statues, possibly from the 10th century, in its alcoves.

The Fortress is open daily and adult admission is 4 euros. Included in the admission is a small pamphlet that provides an overview and detailed map of the Fortress. This is definitely a "don’t miss" sight in Corfu Town.

We left the main area of town and headed south along Garitsa Bay. We passed by the location of Ionian Academy, Corfu’s oldest university as well as the luxurious Corfu Palace, Corfu’s premier hotel.

Our only stop was at the Byzantine Church of St. Jason and St. Sosipater which was built in 1000 BC. St. Jason and Sosipater were disciples of St. Paul who are credited with bringing Christianity to Corfu. We had enough time to visit the church and take a few pictures before getting back on the train.

Further along, we passed by Paleopolis, the remains of the original town of Corfu built in 750 BC. Some archaeologists believe that this was also the site of King Alkinoos’s palace described in Homer’s Odyssey. Across from Paleopolis, Mon Repos Park is an oasis of green trees and flowering bushes filled with walking and biking trails. (I came back later to explore the somewhat disappointing remains of two ancient temples as well as a Neoclassical palace that was the former summer residence of the British Commissioner in the 1800s and also the birthplace of England’s Prince Philip). This was the farthest point of the tour so the train headed back, past the windmill and along the coast road beside Garitsa Bay with the Old Fortress in the distance. Although the ride was a bit jerky at times, there were lots of opportunities for pictures and the train provided a nice overview of some of the attractions outside the main tourist area.

The train operates between 11am and 11pm although not on an hourly basis. There is a schedule posted near McDonalds, across from the Spianada. The night tours are particularly memorable since the Fortress and many of the attractions are lit.