Beloved Ljubljana

Ljubljana sits in a green bowls of hills, capital of the attractive, peaceful independent state of Slovenia since it judiciously broke from Yugoslavia in 1991 just as the Balkans were imploding, a good-looking town of 330,000 without an apparent care in the world, gearing up (in its own quiet way) for EU entry in Jan 2003.

As you''d expect given its Roman heritage, there are decent enough artefacts in the museums (Municipal and National), and the Modern Art Museum is worth a trip in rain.

Foremost though this is an outdoors town and, when the sun is shining, that''s all you need. Watch the world (cyclists and roller-bladers - it seems virtually pedestrianised) go by sitting by the Ljubljanica River amongst the relaxed cafe society or on Preseren''s statue by the triple bridge; climb to the (restored but impressive) castle; lift your eyes from cobbled streets to glorious architecture or curious name plates and wall plaques; smell fresh strawberries in the market by the cathedral; mingle with the students in French-style coffee-bars in the university area. By day it''s a serene pace of life, though bars perk up at night and go well past dawn.

Quick Tips:

"Ljubljana" means "beloved" and the city''s own beloved symbol (which you will see everywhere from the golden specimen atop the Townhall spire to cartoon versions advertising shops'' wares) is a dragon. Perhaps the most famous examples are the ferociously clawed and jawed chaps on the Dragon Bridge (popularly believed to wave their tails if a virgin crosses the bridge) and on the ubiquitous flag of Ljubljana itself, emblazoned across a crenellated castle tower. Look out for that motif on the iron steps up to the castle lookout, and various examples in stone relief on walls as you walk around the city. Curiously, while the dragon is feted in Ljubljana, across the border in Zagreb, merely 124km away, he is reviled with St. George, of whom there are numerous statues, always portrayed as triumphant over a vicious, evil-looking monster.

Best Way To Get Around:

The city is compact enough to get around on foot though buses run from stops are marked on all streets - the town isn''t actually pedestrianised, it just feels it because there''s so little traffic save on the main roads - and maps available from the tourist information office, just across the Triple Bridge next to the cathedral, will include details of bus routes.

Slovenia''s national carrier, Adria Air, flies into Brnik airport (23kms - and a whopping c6500TL taxiride or 680TL local (no.28) bus-ride - outside town) from most European cities at reasonable prices or the railway service is quick and efficient and pretty cheap (with very few formalites, carried out courteously and speedily on the train) if you''re going over the border into Italy, Croatia, or Hungary. The railway station is worth a visit even if you''re not taking a train - look in particular for the blue stained glass windows in the ticket-hall and the large ubiquitous dragon inlaid in marble on the entrance floor.

Alternatively, if you''re traveling north to Bled in the Julian Alps or the Skocjan Caves 10km south of Ljubljana, you''ll need a bus, running from outside the station.

This is by and large a coach party hotel (primarily Austrian and German visitors who stay one night and check out very early -- try not to check out at the same time or you''ll be queuing for a while). The decor is a bit bland but pretty clean and tidy (with good sherbets lemons in a bowl by reception) and the rooms are comfortable and warm, with adequate bathrooms (some with bath, some shower), TV, etc. Breakfast is very good indeed (range of cereals, toast and jams and types of bread, cold cuts, yoghurt and fruit, scrambled eggs, bacon and sausages -- they will bring you further, generous portions if you ask a waitress) -- the only black mark is for the tea and coffee which is machine-dispensed rather than being freshly made. Reception is friendly and well-informed about what is going on in the town.

You''ll probably choose this place because of its apparently excellent location, and it is just five minutes'' stroll from the main square and Triple Bridge (and about five minutes in the other direction to the station) -- HOWEVER, be warned, it is also bang opposite to a night-club (called Klub Central) and, every night of the week (Sunday included), your sleep will be shattered (at any time between 2 and 7am and, one occasion, throughout that 5 hour period) by loud singing and horns beeping as people jump out in front of traffic. There''s apparently little to be done about it (short of getting some double glazing and/or earplugs) including (as I was driven to once in desperation) asking reception to call the police to move them on homewards - the sole consolation is that the noise will suddenly and miraculously cease at about 7:20am. So, despite the comfort and good breakfasts, I would strongly advise not staying at this hotel unless you can get a room on the east side well away from the radio station office (the nightclub, not visible from the street, is next door to it).

Contact Marjan in reception on info@hotelturist.si or the hotel website is www.hotelturist.si.

This was such a good find for a confirmed piscivore like me that barely anywhere else got a look in (though I did vary intake for reasons of research). The entrance is actually on the triple bridge (left-hand side as you cross towards the townhall), leading you down a spiral staircase past, on the left, a wet-fish shop which supplies the raw product for the restaurant, and, on the right, into the restaurant where apparently tireless waiters bring food to your riverside table on a roofed balcony.

It’s not particularly grand (white painted wrought iron tables and plastic chairs, paper napkins etc) but the view can’t be faulted – along the Ljubljanica river or across to the Preseren Trg. to the pink Franciscan church and the back of Preseren’s head from where he stands on his plinth. The menu is entirely fish-based with my favoured dishes focussing on the grilled squid which is quite divine and very reasonable for the fair-sized portions (c1200TL or £4/$6). The "special of the day" did not change for the several days when I went there so anticipate the possibility that swordfish steak with potatoes and veg may be a fixture of sorts (c1400TL or £5/$7). Grilled whitebait or mini-herring was also very good but I’d steer away from the "shrimp" which were in fact re-formed fish in shrimp-shaped deep-fried breadcrumb (in fact, as a general rule, anything fried was less good than its grilled counterpart). Large ice-cold beers are about £1.50/$2.50 and a carafe of passable house red or white about £3.50/$5. The only other slight disappointment was an uninteresting green (and I mean just untreated – possibly unwashed - lettuce leaf) salad at £2/£3.50.

Top tip – when you’ve had as much fish as you can manage for lunch, head back up the steps and round the corner into the outdoor fruit and veg market where the fruit (particularly the strawberries and cherries) are quite cheap and make an utterly delicious al fresco dessert.

It’s open from about noon until about 4pm (by which time the selection available will also have dwindled a bit – the wet-fish shop is also closed by then) and not at all for dinner. Clientele seemed a mix of solo businessmen, tourist couples and lunching locals. Obviously it is also tremendously well-placed for the main sights.

The Castle (Ljubljanski grad) is visible from almost everywhere within the town which bodes well for the view from the top and means it's a must-visit. It was apparently built on a prehistoric site on top of the hill in the Middle Ages; the info within the virtual reality museum in the tower (included in the price for climbing the tower itself) will tell you that the earliest reference to it dates from 1144 -- the Odalreich of Ljubljana -- and that records show that it was first used as a fortress, later as barracks and that the present, quintagonal, irregular layout is of later origin. In the 13th century, the castle was the defence core of the town and protected the local peasants until 1797, the year when the French, under Napoleon, first captured Ljubljana (look out for Napoleon's golden face on the Illyrian monument in the university/parliament area).

In the 1500s, the castle underwent some reconstruction works by Italian architects, Spati and Decius -- in 1544, the provincial governor took up residence and had the defences fortified. In 1686, the gunpowder tower exploded and, in 1782, the castle building ceased to be functional until transformed into a prison house which it remained until 1849. In 1905, the local government decided to use it instead as a cultural centre and accommodation, which is why the (continuing) works began (and it's not apparent when they will end). These days though, it's also used quite heavily as a civil wedding venue and a procession of different brides wandered past while I was there on a Saturday afternoon.

And, sure enough, the view does live up to expectation -- a fantastic panorama across the city. It's even worth climbing up the hill rather than taking the tourist "train", to see the vista open up as you gain height. The path up is signposted from the town-centre, and diverges about half-way into either a slow-but-steady or steep-but-quick route, so can you take your pick. Either way, there are some obvious stopping points and benches to have a breather on the 15-20 minute walk/climb. When you reach the castle, you'll see for yourself that the renovations are ongoing still, and that the only accessible parts are the tower and courtyard that you cross to access the tower. (Note: the courtyard has a fairly good lunch restaurant/coffee bar -- I'd particularly recommend the delicious iced coffee on a hot day to regain your strength before tackling the tower's spiral staircase.)

In the basement of the tower is the Chapel of St. George, apparently first mentioned in 1489 and re-done later in Baroque style. The impressive coats-of-arms of Carniolian provincial governors, on the walls and ceiling, date from 1747 (though they appear to have been touched up much more recently than that). It's pretty bare apart from the shields and escutcheons, but there are pews to sit on while you crick your neck at the ceiling.

Then it's time to climb the pentagonal tower for the view -- eagle-eyed visitors will already have noticed the marvellous dragon brazier at the entrance where the (long-gone) drawbridge and portcullis should be. A second dragon is sighted on the Ljubljana flag, flying from the tower, and the third is beneath your feet as you climb . . . take a closer look at the iron stairs and you'll see him again, aloft a crenellated turret.

The castle is open 10am until dusk and the cost for entry to the tower (including the virtual museum -- the chapel seemed to be free anyway) is about £2.50/$3.50 for adults and about £1.60/$2 for concessions.

(Note: the other great city-viewpoint in the rather ugly black Neboticnik highrise which dates from 1933 -- at the bottom, there's a sign "Kaverna" and a lift to the top-floor terrace where you can eat or drink coffee. It's not too expensive and the view is free.)

As I've said, one of the best ways to spend a good, full day in Ljubljana is to wander around, admiring the architecture. The Slovenes themselves clearly recognise this as one of their main assets since the buildings are almost all pristine, with fresh paint, little graffiti, and windowboxes full of colourful flowers displayed on the many window-sills. The many interesting plaques and curiosities such as the little dragons etched into or attached onto the walls or over doors are sure to catch the eye...

A good place to start your mooch is Preseren "Square" (more of a roundabout-cum-mini-carpark really) where you can sit on the steps of France Preseren's impressive statue and admire the dusky pink Fransiscan Church and the rest of the turn-of-the-century art nouveau buildings that surround him -- the glorious old pharmacy, the former painters' home (suitably brightly coloured - though shame about the watch-maker's sign which somewhat spoils the impression). Over the Triple Bridge, take a left and go through the open-air market to the creamy yellow cathedral with a most impressive square bell-tower. Under the arch you'll find the ornate bronze door to take you inside -- it's too dark really to appreciate the famed frescos and a little ornate and gilded for my taste so I didn't linger...plus there's a lot to see outside in the sunshine.

Retracing your steps through the market, turn left away from the bridge and down Mestni trg. On the corner is the larger than life Robba Fountain (named after the Italian sculptor rather than a hoodlum) which stands outside the Magistrat (Townhall). The Townhall is currently being renovated and beautified so parts are off limits; however the splendid clocktower stands tall and proud and you can just make out the shape of a tiny golden dragon weather-vane glinting on top.

From the Townhall, carry on along the cobbles of Mestni trg and note the romantic positioning (surely no accident?) of the Romeo cafe opposite to Julia. Eventually you'll work your way to the Ljubljanica river and the very picturesque Shoemaker Bridge (actually prettiest at night). Cross to the other side and you'll quickly find yourself in the university area (admire in particular on your left Plecnik's very fine National and University Library building (the inside of which is being tarted up as at Summer 2003 though you can still wander round outside) and on your right the University buildings itself from whose grand balconies the new republic was announced...cue dancing in Kongresni trg where independence day is still celebrated. It's worth a detour behind the library building for the Illyria column on which Napoleon's face shines out in 3D gold relief. Doubling back down Gosposka ul, you'll pass the fancy Filharmonija (Opera House) before crossing Kongresni. It's worth dropping into the grandly named Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity (dating from 1726) for the fantastic Robba altar (though don't get your hopes up as it's opening hours are erratic and it closes at will without reference to a timetable). If you're a glutton for organisation, detour through the governmental/administrative area (although the buildings won't blow you away so you might think your time b better spend enjoying a cappuccino in one of the pseudo-french student coffee-bars). The other reasons to head this far east (assuming you're not headed into the Tivoli park to stretch your legs) are the museums -- the national museum, museum of modern art and national gallery. Each of these has its charms and attractions but none of them gets a mention in an entry dedicated to the great outdoors activity of wandering.

Last but definitely not least entry on the outdoors wander itinerary, if you're up to a mooch along the Ljubljanica, it's not too far east to the dragon bridge where 4 bronze, verdigris-ed specimens stand guard at either end. As I say above, the city-folk chose him long ago as mascot and icon and the ultimate Mr. Nasty versions are here -- snarling fangs and pointed spiky claws, but delicately squatting with arrow-tipped tails curled round the podium. Shame about the graffiti but nonetheless they are magnificent -- cue photo below...