Historic Sonoma

Just over the Golden Gate bridge and through prestidious Marin county, you begin to sense that you are approaching a quieter, gentler place. You turn North from Highway 101 onto Highway 37, and suddenly the smell of alfalfa and freshly cut grass, overcome you --you have finally escaped the 'City.'

As you join Highway 12, California's wine country opens before you. Row after row of grape vines march over hillsides. Each vine wearing a thin strip of foil swaying in the breeze, as farmers' attempt to keep the birds from consuming their precious products. Wineries appear along the roadside, each beckoning with offers of fermented nectars.

The road ends at Sonoma, squarely in front of the magnificant town Plaza. A central shaded square surrounded by shops, restaurants, and art galleries. Each side street offers new adventures: historic missions, forts, wineries and more. You feel you have entered the setting for a Western Movie as this charming little town welcomes you.

Quick Tips:

The Plaza in the Town of Sonoma is the perfect starting point for adventures throughout Sonoma County and Countryside. Within an easy 30-45 minute drive, you will find The town of Glen Ellen offering unique perspectives into the life of Jack London; The Hot Springs Areas, with warm mineral baths (said to be California's oldest resort areas)and the town of Petaluma with its famed adobes, Luther Burbank Gardens and (of course) Factory Outlet Mall.

Best Way To Get Around:

Within the town of Sonoma, many of the attractions are within easy walking distance. The Sebastiani Winery offers a trolley car which provides free transport of visitors from the Plaza to the nearby Sebastiani winery. In order to enjoy the many offerrings and take full advantage of the variety of activities found here, a car is really recommended.

A relatively new restaurant in Sonoma, Cucina Viansa describes itself as a gourmet kitchen and wine bar. It has a fantastic location, right in the center of town and amid several outstanding tourist attractions.

The decor is very pleasant, reminiscent of an Italian deli. Well lit with walls of polished wood, black and white checkerboard floor and shiny deli display cases. Suits of armour stand guard between the round dining tables.

There is a fine selection of panini (sandwiches) all priced at $6.95 All are served on your choice of sourdough or herbed focaccia bread. If you choose a pasta salad, you can order small($2.49), medium ($4.29), or large ($6.95) depending on your appetite that day.

Daily Rotisserie Offerings are also available at $8.95 to $14.95 (depending on entree) each includes salad and focaccia bread. The day we visited, a wonderfully aromatic and deliciously flavored Veal Piatto was served at $9.25. An excellent choice! Portions are quite adequate and the wait staff is young and very pleasant.

All foods and box lunches are available for take out.

One of the most colorful personalities to settle in Sonoma was COL Agoston Haraszthy. A native of Hungary, he came to Sonoma in 1857 and soon became friends with General Vallejo. The two shared a passion for fine wines and soon developed a friendly competition to see who could produce the most outstanding wines.

With permission from California's Governor, Haraszthy brought sample cuttings of foreign grape varieties to california in 1861. His careful and scientific methods of selecting, planting and grooming the grapes earned him the title of 'Father of California Wines'. Today, his estate and vineyards are available for visitors to see and enjoy at Buena Vista Winery.

Much of Sonoma's prosperity faltered in the 1920's, with the onset of prohibition, but Buena Vista was one of the few wineries which remained open to make wines for sacramental and medicinal purposes. The current revival of interest in wines began in the 1960s and today the wine industry flourishes once again.

A visit to Buena Vista Winery, just a short distance from the plaza, is a definite must for visitors. Located on a lovely hilltop just above the center of town it offers lovely shaded picnic areas, and self-guided tours as well as daily guided historical presentations.

A short, pleasant walk along a lane of crepe myrtle, pine and aspen trees brings you to the lower picnic area where you see stacked oak barrels and the huge, ornately carved barrel of Colonel Haraszthy.

Complimentary tastings are available in the elegant tasting room at a wide bar done in richly carved wood. Special 'select edition' tasting are also available for a small fee. Picnic fare is available and a very nice array of tastefully crafted wine souveneirs items are on display for purchase in the gift shop.

The winery is open daily from 10am to 5pm and ample parking is available. (Historic presentations are given daily at 2pm). Picnic tables are available at no cost.

The town of Sonoma is designed around a central Plaza. An inviting garden of pink roses and a circular fountain beckon as you approach the historic City hall and Court house at the center of the Plaza. Arched windows and entry ways provide a reminder of the strong Spanish influence over Sonoma for many years.

The flags of several countries have flown over Sonoma at one time or another: Spain, England, Russia, Mexico, the Bear Flag, and the United Sates flag.

Throughout the Plaza plaques and bronze markers announce the significant events which have occurred in the plaza, much to the interest of visitors and the delight of a group of noisy school children who excitedly explore the Plaza with their teachers and escorts.

At the North-east corner of the plaza there is a statue placed by California's 'Native Sons of the Golden West' to comememorate the spot where the Bear Flag Revolt took place in 1846. Prior to that time, the Mexican government prohibited Americans from owning land in California. On June 14, 1846, a crude muslin flag depicting a grizzly bear was raised in Sonoma' Plaza where it flew for over a month before it was replaced by the United States Flag.

The Plaza is a busy place at 10 am this Friday morning: Nannies and Grandmas push the swings beneath their young charges, a flock of ducks noisily bathe in the pond and two young moms conduct a race down the slides as their toddlers vie for the win. Two elderly gentlemen (canes by their side) sit in the sun as my husband and I walk the maniured paths thru the summer flowers in the plaza as they fade into October.

It in no wonder that Jack London referred to Sonoma as 'The Valley of the Moon.' In his book by that name, he acquainted readers with the joys and beauty of Sonoma after he settled in the region in 1913.

Mission San Francisco Solono, the last of the California's 21 missions, stands opposite the North East corner of the Plaza in Sonoma. The site was selected and consecrated by Father Jose Altimira in July 1823. The site provided all of the basic needs for the mission. Water, wood, stone and other building materials were readily available and the rich soil conditions and warm climate were promising for agriculture.

In 1825, the first building was completed. A low wooden structure plastered inside and out with whitewashed mud, it was used as living quarters. This building has been reconstructed and stands near the present chapel. It is the oldest building in Sonoma.

The mission reached its peak of prosperity around 1830 when nearly 1,000 Indians were in residence. In 1841, General Vallejo constructed and furnished the present Mission Chapel in order to provide a Parish Church for the people of Sonoma.

The Mission buildings became State Historical Landmarks and state property in 1906. Today they are open to the public daily 10am to 5pm. Admission varies between state properties, but most charge an admission fee of $1-$2 for those over 17 years of age. Donations are always welcome.

Anyone who ever trembled in their chair watching the Alfred Hitchcock thriller, "THE BIRDS", will want to make at least a quick stop at the town of Bodega, where the famous movie was shot. Just a quarter of a mile inland from California’s Coast Highway 1, is the 19th century town of Bodega. The ancient schoolhouse still casts gray shadows over the hillside and images of 'the birds' swarming into the old 76 gas station near the edge of town will be reawakened.

It was overcast and a heavy mist hung in the air as we walked up the hill to the tiny graveyard outside the old church and graveyard. Funny how such a quiet little town could conjure up such vivid and scary memories! Took a few pictures and then were on our way.

Back on the Coast Highway, we stopped for a break at Bodega Bay. This bustling fishing village is graced with a superb stretch of bluffs, beaches and a spacious harbor. The Tides Restaurant has an excellent (albeit a bit pricey) seafood menu and a pleasant bar with a good view of the fishing boats outside. There is also a nice market at the Tides where you can pick up chips, cookies or a quick snack if you prefer. Bodega Head, near the center of town offers a good vantage point for whale watching during the season.

Can you imagine my surprise when I arrived home that weekend and found that the photo I took of the old church in Bodega had been taken in negative! Kind or eerie??