Romance Rekindled in Smokies

The Smokey Mountain National Park is the most visited in the National Park System. The smoke is actually water vapor that rises from the verdant hills throughout the 36 miles of unbroken peaks representing some of the oldest mountains in the world. During the ice age glaciers spared this area and many creatures escaping took refuge here. Relatively undisturbed for eons, the Smokey’s host an immense collection of plants and wildlife.

Time moves slowly in the Smokey's, and most of the pleasures found here are of the woodsy sort. Backpacking, camping, fishing, boating, and hiking are the most popular reasons to make the journey. Riding on a Harley through the winding roads amid the deep forests and river gorges is a pleasure I'd recommend to anyone with a class M license and a helmet.

Most travelers are familiar with the lure of the open road, but until you've tried it on a motorcycle you are missing more than you realize. In the open fresh air, subtle changes in atmosphere, environment, even vegetation are so much more apparent. Not only will you see more with no visibility restrictions, but you will smell and sometimes feel the shifts.

Quick Tips:

Over one million visitors annually tour the grand European style 8,000 acre working farm/estate of Biltmore . Built at turn of century by George Vanderbilt, Biltmore was America’s largest home with its stained glass atrium, leather paneled office, a library requiring a house librarian and a basement direct from a scene in "Gosford Park" with its laundry, store rooms and servants quarters.

The Cherohala Skyway is an extraordinary stretch of road between Robbinsville and Tellico Plains through the Joyce Kilmer Wilderness, and the Cherokee Village offers insight into the culture of the area's original inhabitants.

Whitewater rafting or kayaking on the Nantahala River Gorge is rated as one of the best rafting rivers in the country. One local outfitter, Nantahala Village arranges everything with stays in their charming lodge and restaurant. Of course, you can come indoors now and then to experience the ultimate tourist schtick in Gatlinburg, where fudge stands, wax museums, mini-golf, and carnival type attractions are tucked neatly into the base of a gorgeous mountainside, or visit various members Country's hall of fame at nearby Dollywood and Pigeon Forge.

Best Way To Get Around:

You will need a car or motorcycle. Public transportation is generally not available throughout this area. It is important to arm yourself with reliable road maps before making your way deep into any mountainous area and this is no exception. Smaller, more interesting roads are often not evident on common road maps. (This is experience talking, although the Harley dealer had very good suggested routes and detailed maps.) Also be aware of potential changes in weather conditions. We started out one morning dressed comfortably for the day, but by the time we finished our ride through a deep gorge, where sunlight rarely shines, we spent an hour before the visitor center fireplace waiting to thaw out. The sixty mile trek from Gatlinburg to Cherokee via the skyway closes at a given time each night. It was this glitch that prevented our seeing "Unto These Hills" an outdoor drama that tells the story of the Cherokee Nation. Because the alternate route back around to our condo was the mountain rather than over it, we didn‘t take the chance. Running into one of the park’s 1,800 black bears at night could be very treacherous. And bad for us, too.

Christopher Place was built in 1974 as a private residence on 200 acres of lush green hillside in the Smokey Mountains. The owner and his family resided there until the late 80‘s when the infamous Savings and Loan scandal resulted in the house being taken over by the FDIC.

The misfortune paved the way for a new concept when in 1994, Drew, Tim and Karen decided to pursue their own dream of operating a B & B. They have obviously chosen the ideal outlet for their passions and talents. Here you will find a veritable cast of characters from, "Holiday Inn" with Marjorie, Fred and Bing wining and dining guests sending them off on favored outings, perhaps taking them for a sleigh ride (or llama trek) and afterward playing the piano and singing for them during dinner!

In the parlor guests are welcome to help themselves to a vast collection of paperback books, bestsellers, CDs and Videos (including, "Holiday Inn") available at no extra charge. This casual, breezy, trustworthy ambiance is the unique hallmark of Christopher Place, yet unlike the atmosphere in many other B & B‘s I‘ve visited, privacy is utterly respected; interaction is strictly on your terms.

Step into the kitchen through the back door and see what’s cooking. Breakfast is included in the room fee and will be prepared to order whatever time you choose. You are likely to have the dining nook to yourself, as only nine guestrooms, each limited to two guests, are available. After breakfast take a journey through the surrounding area wilderness, or relax beside the heated outdoor pool or play a rousing set of tennis on the private court. Later on, unwind on the upstairs veranda porch and watch as hawks soar and peregrine dive over the forested hills or peak in on the sunset with a chilly glass of bubbly (byo).

Although "Black Bear Cave" may be a more appropriate illusion for a hide-away suite in the Smokey Mountains, our home for a few days at Christopher Place was known officially as "The Lion’s Den." Intended originally as the estate’s master suite, the impressive room indulged us as kings of the forest with its massive mahogany bed, dual bathrooms and en suite double whirlpool tub. Other equally enchanting rooms have distinctive themes such as "Roman Holiday," or "Tournament of Roses."

Another unique aspect of Christopher Place that distinguishes it from a mere B& B, is the exceptional menu and cooking of chef Karen Valentine (a.k.a., Marjorie.) Every night hotel guests and others, after making a reservation at least 24 hrs in advance, are treated to a gourmet meal with ingredients gathered and prepared freshly that day. Take a look at this sample menu and you will understand why we dined outside the hotel only once during our trip. I continue to receive weekly updates on Christopher Place menus. It keeps me in touch with these charming hosts and nourishes a delightful memory.

We had passed the Open Hearth on our way into Gatlinburg and decided then that we’d be back for dinner later that day. We’d been intrigued by the rambling restaurant built on stilts and backed into the mountainside where a natural stream was allowed to meander behind and then beneath the establishment. I imagined that the chef only needed to drop a handled net out the kitchen door to scoop up the rainbow trout, the signature dish of Open Hearth. Then there was the distinct smell of the hearth itself, a smoky-sweet woodsy scent that always seems to be an indication of something delicious on its way.

We managed to wait until the dinner bell chimed at 5:30 p.m. before we parked the bike in the gravel drive (there seems to be a lot of gravel in this neck of the woods). We weren’t the only anxious diners; the place was already filling up and we were lucky to get a picture window table with a view of the stream pouring off the mountain backdrop.

Even though Open Hearth is "Voted the best dining in the Smokies," it is not a high-class stuffy restaurant. That may be obvious by observing the prices; $14.99 for the special of the house (trout) which amazingly also includes, "your choice of homemade soup or fresh garden salad … choice of homemade dressings, … choice of baked potato, garden blend rice pilaf, baked apples, big orange potato, steak fries, or fresh sauteed Italian vegetable of the day, and fresh baked croissants." It is also obvious from the reception we encountered at the front door that the Open Hearth was also Open Arms. What stuffy maitre ’d would have embraced us so warmly showing up as we did still wearing leather, road dust and helmet hair? Since we had come directly from a ride through the mountains, it was a relief to find the owners and waitresses totally at ease with our rather rough-hewn get-ups. But of course! All sorts of people congregated here, couples on dates, vacationers, RV drivers, families with children, backpackers and local regulars.

Our waitress was filled with southern charm and hospitality herself, patiently guiding us as we stepped through the menu’s many available side dishes; vegetable soup (homemade and aromatic,) pilaf (better than most steak house rice,) baked (not microwaved), house dressing (delectable with sweet mustard.) She recommended the honestly fantastic prime rib; big meaty, juicy, smoky, tender rib meat that revealed why this restaurant has been drawing visitors for almost fifty years. Since I don’t find fresh stream rainbow trout often offered, I ordered it, not expecting to be as delighted as the last time I’d had it in Italy’s Lake Como. However, here was proof that it is not essential to venture far from home or spend loads of money to find the best that life can offer.

Getting there is half the fun …that is, unless you have the option of skipping the long, often boring, smog-infested super highways and simply mounting your HOG once the air is clear and scenery has turned worthy. Some road warriors love the open road so much that they will ride 1,000 miles a day just for the fun of it, but I’m more a fair-weather biker chick. My motorcycle enjoyment is limited to dazzling drives through pristine countryside with minimal traffic.

If that sounds more appealing to you, it makes perfect sense to take advantage of Harley’s Fly/Ride program. Available to all Harley Owners Group (HOG) members, this program enlists dealers at many of the world's most beautiful destinations such as; Yellowstone, Seattle, Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, Phoenix, and Atlanta, to name only a few. International locations include Canada, Australia, Europe, Scandinavia, New Zealand, Mexico, Malta Thailand, and Saudi Arabia - more places than you would imagine.

Renting is a simple process once you qualify. Choose your destination then make a call to HOG to arrange the details. They will reserve a motorcycle in the destination of your choice and send you dealer information and a contract. Typically, your bike will be a brand-new Ultra-Classic, which is almost as comfortable for the passenger as if it were an ergonomic office chair. Most bikes have luxury equipment like CD players, but riders are required to provide their own helmets and gear. (Helmet laws vary from state to state and are generally strictly enforced.) If you arrive short on equipment or clothing, the larger Harley Dealers are happy to sell you anything you need from the immense collection of Harley road wear, or motor clothes, as it is charmingly called. Extremely well-made and durable, there are not many companies that match Harley’s attention to detail and construction. We have often shipped our heavy leathers and helmets ahead of time to the rental dealer and most are happy to also store any superfluous luggage that won’t fit on the bike. Although the saddle bags hold more than you’d think, this is one adventure when packing light is not an option, it is a necessity.

Tips: Pack light but dress in layers and remember wind and rain gear. The wind chill is a huge factor when you are out in the open going high speed. I've left for a ride in 70 degree weather and arrived with my teeth chattering and close to hypothermia. Wear a helmet even if local laws don't require it. Examine routes in advance, tapping the local dealer and staff for their knowledge of the area. Then, don't hesitate to discover things on your own as you make your way through the countryside.

The Smokey Mountains, though not as outwardly dramatic as some of the Rocky Mountain parks we‘ve toured, offered uncommonly striking, serene, and visually stunning routes every bit as memorable. Remember, "Live to ride, ride to live."

So many associations have been made between romance and riding the range that it has become a cliché, which is understandable. As is the case with most cliques, they are based in profound truth.

Though it was love at first sight, what really sealed the deal for my husband and me was our first motorcycle ride into Yellowstone via the Bear Tooth Highway. I'll never forget the astonishing feeling when we reached the top of the ridge (11,000 feet) and found our destiny etched clearly in the mountain granite. Looking out from the observation point at the peak of the range, we could see forever. After that, it would be impossible to separate the two sensations; motoring into precipitous landscapes, and falling in love.

Five years later, that familiar thrill is always only a motorcycle trip away. At least once a year we hit the highway for renewal and romance and somehow get to know one another even better each time. Tucking my face under my husband's chin as he guides us seamlessly down the highway is often as necessary as it is romantic since the throaty roar of the engine muffles our voices. This is my favored form of snuggling, possibly because for this brief time I’ve got him where I want him, with his hands on the throttle and mine around his waist. From there we rely on hand signals, non-verbal communication and intuitive instruction to delivery our messages to one another. It doesn't take long to get into synch, to the point that we all operate as one; me, my husband, and the bike. Words are seldom necessary.

Of course just being outside in the wilderness breathing the fresh, bracing air, watching vistas roll by that never cease to amaze is enough to step up the romance factor in itself. But there is a meditation-like "zone" that most riders report which also tends to clear the mind and helps to resolve old differences without concerted effort. It is really not unusual for me enter an altered brain-wave state that is the same as meditation. An hour, or two, may pass and it seemed like only moments. Another essential and unique element of motorcycle romance is that of chivalry. In the old model fair maidens were whisked away on a white horse, but for me the prince’s armor is made of leather and his steed is forged from iron in a factory in Wisconsin.