Northern Switzerland: The Toblerone Tales

"You’re welcome to worship here if you can spare the cash."

That’s how John Ruskin, famous Victorian social commentator, described the Swiss Alps. He’s right. But you will want to worship here.

Dominating 60% of the country, you’re never far from the Alps’ awesome beauty, and northern Switzerland combines cultural, historical and culinary pursuits with the allure of breathtaking outdoor pleasures in one of the world’s finest amphitheatres:

1. Dine on a cultural smorgasbord in Basel, displaying the country’s finest museums and galleries, and a medieval Old Town that time forgot.
2. Cruise like a millionaire for the price of a pizza on Lake Lucerne, a land of secret villages guarded by ice-capped sentinels.
3. Uncover the tale of Toblerone in the Swiss capital of Berne, where four miles of ancient sandstone shopping promenades shelter an array of Switzerland’s finest products – many of them chocolate coated!
4. Journey to the Roof of Europe in a day on a postcard tour of breathtaking landscapes that will have you pinching yourself and (literally) gasping for air.
5. Go native on any number of short escapes into the Rhine’s green belt and join the locals at play or hike the surrounding forests.

This is northern Switzerland, a land where sophisticated wealth, cultural diversity, fun, chocolate, and beer and schnitzel merge; blurring into one on the doorstep of nature’s perfection. Come, see for yourself.

Quick Tips:

WHEN TO GO:Spring and autumn – April/May and October/November are best. The colours and richness of the countryside are ripe and crowds are minimal. Prices skyrocket in summer (and winter in the Alps), when you’ll often need to book accommodation and plan your travel in advance.

ACCOMMODATION:Northern cities boast many options but smaller hotels and hostels are the best choice. Local train station tourist offices are a gold mine of information and can usually point you in the right direction. Many towns also offer a city pass bundled with your accommodation that gives significant discount on public transport and local attractions – a big saving if you’re staying for a while.

LANGUAGE:Although Switzerland has a sophisticated and mature tourism infrastructure, English is not widely spoken outside larger settlements. A little German will go a long way in the north.

MUNCHIES:Service of any kind adds serious calories to your expenses. Self-catering is the way to go. Most cities and towns have wonderful markets; seek them out and use them to satisfy your culinary cravings. After all, this is Switzerland and the food and scenery are superb – what better excuse for a picnic!

Best Way To Get Around:

Public transport in Switzerland is legendary and will become a feature of your holiday. Services are frequent, on time, clean and reliable – or else!

An outstanding rail network serves most destinations, with the added advantage of comfort, picture windows and world-famous Swiss scenery. Once at your destination you'll be able to walk most places, but an equally impressive network of local buses, trams and boats will deliver you anywhere, anytime.

Here’s a strategy that worked for us, that was cheap and stress free:

*** Use a rail pass for major excursions or longer trips and be sure to find one that best suits you. Saver FlexiPasses offer great value for most travellers; we saved around 50% on point-to-point costs.
*** Rail passes also offer discount boat services on many of Switzerland’s lakes and rivers. Try and schedule outings that use rail and boat travel on the same day to maximise the benefit of your pass.
*** Don’t waste money on a first-class rail pass; second class in Switzerland is comparable to first class in most other countries.
*** Take advantage of discounted local transport passes in bigger towns when you buy your accommodation but be sure to ask, it’s not always volunteered!

Stuff of dreams
1,000-foot pimples qualify as mountains in Australia, so you'll imagine my excitement at the prospect of exploring Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland.

Rushing rivers, ice-green lakes, forested chasms and giant, dusted, Alpine peaks of thin air and glaciers are the stuff of dreams. But not today. Today we catch a train to the Roof of Europe, to its highest rail station, to touch that dream.

Speaking in tongues
"Nein, nein," I say to the ticket attendant in Basel, "Wengen hoch und Grinndelwald unten bitte."
I read somewhere the Jungfraujoch trip could be done two ways and I wanted to combine them; one way up, a different way back down. In broken German I prevailed while Karen hid in a corner as the ticket queue lengthened.

A ten-hour round trip and a couple of hours at the summit; 90Sfr each. At 180Sfr, our 5-day, one-month Swiss Rail passes justify themselves. The price without a pass? Over 200Sfr!

Switzerland in a day
Pastoral scenery gives way to emerald meadows, crystal rivers and, past Thun, glassy lakes as the sun reflects the sky’s smile. At Interlaken, gateway to the mountains, we’ve been travelling two hours and break for a stroll. This resort town could be a Swiss postcard; fields of spring flowers, cows dining on rich pastures, expansive valleys and distant peaks.

Back on board we make the 20-minute trip to Lauterbrunnen. Nestled at the valley floor, this collection of weather-beaten chalets is flanked by sheer cliffs hosting dozens of waterfalls, some of them tumbling almost 1,000 feet like some fairytale land from Lord of the Rings.

Karen sketches non-stop on the hour-long climb through the Lauterbrunnen Valley, via Wengen, to Kleine Scheidegg. Nirvana for skiers and hikers alike, this breathtaking country typifies tourist-brochure Switzerland and a steady stream of all season visitors pass through the neighbouring villages.

Kleine Scheidegg may be small, but the views compensate. At around 7,000 feet, the station fronts a vertical wall of ice that is the Eiger, worshipped and respected worldwide by climbers, and we change to the Jungfraubahn cogwheel railway for the final ascent.

King of the world
Warnings of altitude headaches and shortness of breath are announced and parents exchange nervous glances. They cling to their children, expecting the unexpected.

The landscape looks sinister, even in today’s sunlight. Everything is white or grey, and a trio of peaks – the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau – loom close. There’s an other-wordly feeling here and the train stops twice at viewing platforms deep in rock tunnels to emphasise the point.

Finally, at 11,400 feet, we stop for the last time, emerging through a bizarre cavern of ice sculptures to four-degree sunshine and 360-degree views over the Alps as far as Germany and Italy. I’m here with 200 other people but I feel like the king of the world. Jungfraujoch’s 13,600-foot summit smiles and I’m standing at the edge of Europe’s largest glacier – a 25-kilometre, 1,000-foot thick ski run.

That’s a big deal to this kid from Oz.

Let’s go exploring
Basel woos visitors with a mix of culture, fun and style, but those who linger reap even greater rewards from this Renaissance capital of Switzerland’s forgotten north.

Although the country’s flattest region, the Rhine’s green belt and surrounding landscape of forests and villages provides tempting diversions for nature lovers and explorers. Here are some destinations you won’t find in many guidebooks.

Lange Erlen
Bus 36 heads east to this free botanical park adjacent the Wiese River. This is family-friendly territory, where kids get hands-on with a variety of farm animals and birds while many different species of deer roam larger enclosures throughout the park.

We enjoy the animals, but the adjacent forests and river are impressive, boasting 70 varieties of indigenous trees and encouraging romance with their winding paths and secret nooks. There’s a fine restaurant and kiosk too, but Lange Erlen is tailor-made for picnics. It’s open every day from dawn to dusk.

Arlesheim
Rows of vines line the hills, promising a bounty of cool-season Riesling gold as tram 10 rocks into sleepy Arlesheim village, south of Basel.

There’s little activity on an overcast, spring morning and the medieval town square echoes our gasps of approval at its 17C baroque cathedral, a stark contrast to warm summer nights when this same square buzzes to the excitement of popular amateur theatre productions. The interior frescoes are beautiful, muted morning light highlighting grand scenes of mythical wonder.

Outside, a series of trails lead through fringing forest, exploring a fairyland of creeks and caves and ending with a short climb to Castle Birseck. Photo opportunities abound on the (different) return route as we pass a grand, 19C residence in a secret pocket of forest. A cat opens one eye, sprawled on a rug atop a suspended basket of firewood. Just another postcard moment in Switzerland.

Green 80
Basel’s reputation for gardens is well deserved and tram 10 passes one of its finest green spaces, just south of the city. Green 80 was founded in 1980, hence the name, and today’s spring sunshine showcases rambling displays of seasonal colour explored through a myriad of easy walking trails.

Today is Saturday and Basel is playing hard. Teams of young and old crowd the sports fields; kites pepper the sky; families picnic on vast check rugs. Kebabs, pretzels and schnitzels are the fuel of choice. Ice cream runs a close second. We eat, drink and party with what feels like half the city, then eat ice cream under a 40-foot dinosaur called Dino.

Rheinfelden
Bisected by the Rhine and straddling the German border east of Basel, Rheinfelden’s rail station is the gateway to an interesting town, combining a charming, medieval centre on the Swiss side with extraordinary shopping bargains on the German side.

We stock up on whiskey, wine, smallgoods, cheese and chocolate, easily accommodating the 100-euro limit, before boarding a boat for the two-hour Rhine cruise home. Now that’s a day trip – leisure, culture and indulgence in one enjoyable shopping expedition!

Tourist magnet of the north
An hour by train from Basel, Lucerne lacks the former’s cosmopolitan swank, but this tourist epicentre provides charm, history, tradition, and idyllic waterfront beauty.

Frescoed streets and wooden bridges beckon, and cafes provide abundant opportunity to blow the froth off an extra creamy latte and escape the masses. And then there’s the lake. Skirted by forest and framed by 6,000-foot peaks, the landscape is breathtaking.

Let’s take a walk (and cruise) around Lucerne, Switzerland’s tourist centre of the north.

By the numbers
On an overcast morning in May, the friendly, English speaking staff at the Visitor Centre (1) have few diversions and load us with literature, including a self-guided city tour that we adapt to our own interests.

Shrouded in mist, the lake’s indefinable features resemble an impressionist painting and we stroll riverside to the 17C Baroque-style Jesuit Church (2)with its feast of interior frescoes. Artwork also features inside the 15C Spreuerbrucke (3), an eerie, wooden, walk-through canvas of paintings illustrating Europe’s gruesome surrender to the 14C plague. Poor light has Karen lingering to examine the work but has me looking over my shoulder.

A short, uphill walk leads to the old town wall (4), providing panoramic views and a close-up of its decorated watchtower. Built in Basel in 1385, this beautifully ornate clock still keeps impeccable time.
Karen is unmoved. "Of course," she says. "This is Switzerland!"

Near Lowenplatz the tourist crowds swell, divining us to the Lion Monument (5). Mark Twain coined this monument to the Swiss Guard, "the saddest, most moving piece of rock in the world." Carved from a cliff-face in the 19C by Lucas Ahorn, it commemorates the 760 men who died defending Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI against marauding French revolutionaries in 1792. Even amidst today’s crowd, the personal impact of this iconic memorial is undiminished.

Back in the Old Town at the Weinmarkt (6) we find fairytale, 16C frescoed buildings and gothic fountains, stopping to enjoy our picnic and a mug of Kafi Laz from a small café. This Schnapps-based coffee is a local favourite, but needs loads of sugar to tame its fiery impact. Karen’s love of sugar [sic] has her returning for seconds.

Inside the nearby Picasso Museum (7) we enjoy a display of the master’s later works, including a handful of ceramics and a remarkably comical and insightful collection of photographs, before we cross the river again at the Kapellbrucke (8), Europe’s oldest wooden bridge. Devastated by fire in 1993, many of the 100 roof paintings in this 14C wonder have been restored, but hordes of camera-toting, flag bearing tour groups sour our appreciation.

Emerging unscathed, we return to the train station and nearby dock with most of the afternoon to enjoy the lake. Sadly, the famous Lucerne paddlesteamers aren’t operating today, but we’re spoiled for alternatives with dozens of destinations on offer. Indulgence prevails, and we opt for a three-hour cruise(9) along the length of the lake to Fluelen – an inspired choice since it connects with a return train to Basel.

For the price of a pizza we close the day aboard MV Lucerne, dining on a sublime soup of mist, wild forests and secret villages. No mountain peaks today, just teasing glimpses of the Pilatus and Rigi giants through occasional breaks in the pea-soup haze, but hey, there’s always next time.

Need to Know More?
Refer to the map for directions; this tour covers around five kilometres at an easy pace, leaving enough time for an afternoon lake cruise.

* Any day is good, although some museums close Monday.
* Be prepared for rain, Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s wettest towns.
* The Picasso Museum costs 6Sfr and is open 10-6 daily.
* You’ll find good cafes along Rathausquai and Nationalquai.
* If you’re into mountains, consider staying in Lucerne and plan a trip up nearby Mount Pilatus – the sunrise and sunsets here come recommended by Mark Twain and a stellar cast of thousands.
* Free lake transport comes with your Euro or Swiss rail pass but if you have to pay, 12Sfr will get an hour of floating solitude. Frequent services link dozens of lakeside destinations all year round. The three-hour trip to Fluelen is highly recommended - it touches some of the lake’s most remote and exciting corners, and Fluelen trains connect with Zurich’s main north-south line.

***** DAVE’S FAVES are the illustrated history provided by Lucerne’s covered wooden bridges; views from the Old Town wall; lump-in-the-throat beauty of the Lion Monument; a candid collection of Picasso photographs, and the incomparable atmosphere of the lake.

Looking for a mascot
It’s been the Swiss capital since 1848. Toblerone was invented here. Einstein even published his theory of relativity here in 1905. But Berne is most famous for its bears.

The city’s founder, Berchtold V, named it after the first thing he slayed on the site and today the bear is the adopted mascot, decorating everything from flags to chocolates. A walk around this compact, architectural, historical and scenic museum of 140,000 is bound to reveal some bears, but you’ll soon realise there is so much more.

By the numbers
The train station’s Information Centre (1) has a good, free map and organises many excursions, including half-day walking tours for 15Sfr. We study the map and design our own tour for free.

It’s still early and the grand buildings surrounding the Barenplatz and Bundesplatz (2) guard a handful of frenetic market stalls, so we stock up on picnic essentials. Expansive views to the south highlight Berne’s unique position, occupying high ground on a lush peninsula created by the Aare River.

Burned in 1405 and rebuilt in sandstone, the arcaded streets of the city have changed little in 600 years. Berne is now a World Heritage Site, listed by UNESCO as one of the world’s most important cultural assets.

With four miles of promenades, almost as much exists above ground as below. It’s the largest shopping mall in Europe and Karen’s eyes sparkle as we stroll down Marktgasse (3), past Theaterplatz, stopping at a small chocolatier with a window display that screams indulgence. Inside Tschirrens we sniff out the truffles, settling on a Champagne and Dark selection to compliment the picnic. A free sample of Honey truffles is our unexpected prize.

It’s nearly 10am and we return to the Theaterplatz for the hourly stage show at the city’s oldest building, the 12C Zytgloggeturm (clock tower).(4) There are almost a hundred people here now and sure enough, at a few minutes to the hour, the bells ring and a parade of mechanical figures that includes – you guessed it – bears, perform for the crowd as Father Time struts his stuff.

The crowd disperse and artistic diversions lead us across the river to the Kunsthalle (Art Gallery) (5), dedicated to promising newcomers and displaying a kaleidoscope of (soon to be known) local talent. Architecture follows art in the Munsterplatz, Berne’s cathedral (6)towering over the city in a display of 15C Gothic pride.

We’re both captivated by its exterior portal, an intricate sculpture of the Last Judgement that omits no detail. Our Information Centre literature, a typically monotonous, English translation that would simultaneously cure insomnia and cause dyslexia, redeems itself with two notable facts:
The tower’s spire (that affords 360-degree views) is the highest in Switzerland (closed today) and, at the time it was built, the cathedral was large enough to accommodate half the population.

Window shopping continues in earnest down Gerechtigkeitsgasse and we reach the Nydegggbrucke, pausing to enjoy the sun and views over the surrounding district. There’s commotion in the adjacent Bear Pit(7), home to the city’s mascot since the 15C, as two males argue. I’d argue too if I had to live in a concrete bunker because somebody killed one of my ancestors and named a town after me. Bears are extinct in the region now, but still the charade continues with these imported icons.

We retreat to a small, grassy park and enjoy our picnic, a feast of breads, cheese, meats and truffles. Nearby, a resident charges an electric car at a refuelling station while another repairs a delicate fresco on a crumbling, 16C façade. It’s a magic moment of contrasts and we smile.

Priceless antiques cram the arcaded shops of Postgasse and soon we reach the Town Hall(9) hidden in a small Gothic square lined with a splendid collection of buildings and another of Berne’s fascinating fountains, its subject holding aloft a bear-emblazoned flag.

There’s time for more cultural pursuits and we finish the tour with a visit to the Kunstmuseum (Gallery of Fine Arts)(10), an unashamedly biased fine art collection dedicated mainly to Switzerland’s favourite son – Paul Klee. There are fine canvases from Cezzanne and Picasso through to Pollock, but the majority of space displays Klee’s bright, challenging and comical work – an appropriate end to a day out in this historical and scenic wonderland.

Need to Know More?
Refer to the map for directions; allow a full day at leisure to cover this seven-kilometre route.

* Most museums are closed on Monday, and you’ll find exciting morning markets in the Bundesplatz on Tuesday and Saturday.
* If you want to feed the bears, you can do it any day for 3Sfr.
* It costs 3Sfr to climb the Munster tower (if it’s open) – Tue-Sat, 10-5 and Sun 11-5.
* The Kunsthalle and Kunstmuseum are both open Tue-Sun, 10-5 and cost 6Sfr.

***** DAVE’S FAVES are the views from the many bridges and squares around town; exciting, fresh exhibits in the Kunsthalle; the arcaded streets and shopping for chocolates.

What’s in a name?
Basel, Bale, Basle. You’ll hear all three in Switzerland’s capital of the northwest. Sharing a border with France and Germany may confuse passport-toting visitors, but Basel’s residents remain fiercely independent.

This university town of 250,000 is one of the country’s best kept secrets. A beautifully preserved Old Town and a menu of world-class museums attract more tourists each year. Often touted as Switzerland’s wealthiest city, Basel’s streets and squares ooze culture, history and atmosphere but its demeanour is curiously ordered, reserved and discrete. At night, however, its university-town pedigree prevails, and the trendy cafes, bars and pubs bulge.

Basel is safe, fun, pedestrian friendly and chocolate rich, so come for a walk and discover this finely polished gem of the north.

By the numbers
There’s an Information Centre at the train station but this one near the Mittlerebrucke (1) is not as busy and the staff seem better equipped to deal with English-speaking tourists. At the entrance to the bridge, high on a wall, you’ll spot the comical Tongue King (2), spawned from an era when the rich merchants of Grossbasel (Greater Basel, south of the river) looked down their noses at the Kleinbasel (Lesser Basel) working class north of the river.

A walk across today’s 20C stone bridge (3) offers fine river views, but also reveals a lovely 15C decorated chapel at its centre, a remnant of the original structure.

Discerning residents and budget-conscious travellers can stock up on quality produce in the frenetic market square of nearby Marktplatz (4), overlooked by a very red and very unique 16C Town Hall - resplendent in its frescoed façade and courtyards, and its ornate turrets.

(It’s refreshing to see fun and humour reflected in government buildings.)

The pedestrianised streets of the medieval Old Town (5) lead to the university quarter and Petersplatz (6), site of a popular Saturday antiques market and a perfect spot to relax under the trees and people watch. No relaxing today though, it’s market day, and Karen rushes off in search of hidden treasure. Our diligence is rewarded; a mint condition Stones Paint it, black record for me and an elegant pair of antique turquoise earrings for Karen.

Heading down Spalengraben, our view is dominated by the 14C Spalentor (7), one of the town’s original city gates, before returning to the Old Town (8) and its shuttered windows, grand old doors and vine-covered walls. Emerging by the river, Basel’s 12C cathedral (9) towers above spacious Munsterplatz – a red sandstone, Gothic masterpiece framed by a marvellous square of old townhouses and an ideal lunch stop.

Our afternoon focuses on culture as we explore the Museum of Contemporary Art (10) before catching one of Basel’s unique cable ferries across the river at St Alban to Klein Basel. A short walk leads to the waterfront Jean Tinguely Museum (11), its bizarre, fun and macabre scrap metal exhibits showcasing the wonders of mechanised art.

Back in Gross Basel, via the Wettsteinbrucke, is a spectacular display of 13th to 20th century art at the Kunstmuseum (12). Dating from 1661, this is Europe’s oldest public art collection. A strong Swiss contingent dominates the walls but Karen gives the Matisse and Van Gogh collections the nod; I prefer Picasso and Dali.

Our day concludes with a visit to Basel’s Zoological Gardens.(13) It’s state-of-the-art blend of botany and beasts caters equally well for adults and children, with impressively designed enclosures and displays that educate and entertain – a fitting dessert to the day’s smorgasbord of culture, fun and history.

Need to know more?
Refer to the map for directions; this tour covers around eight kilometres and takes a full day. If you prefer a slower pace, leave the Zoo and perhaps one of the museums for a second day.

* Saturday is best – all attractions are open, and the Petersplatz antique market is in full swing. Avoid Monday and Tuesday, many museums are closed.
* The gondola ferry costs around 1.20Sfr.
* The Jean Tinguely Museum costs 7Sfr and opens Wed-Sun, 11-7.
* The Kunstmuseum costs 7Sfr and opens Tue-Sun, 10-5. Entry is shared with the Museum of Contemporary Art and a visit to both provides a wonderful contrast.
* The Zoological Gardens costs 10Sfr and is open daily, 8-6.
* If you’re not picnicking, Café Zum Issak on Munsterplatz is hard to beat for value and views.

***** DAVE’S FAVES are the gorgeous, muraled, medieval streets of Basel’s Old Town; the Kunstmuseum; the Jean Tinguely Museum, and the skilfully designed and presented Zoological Gardens.