Halifax: Nova Scotia's Atlantic Jewel

A travel journal to Halifax by Jim Rosenberg Best of IgoUgo

Lobster TimeMore Photos

As the cultural and commercial capital of Atlantic Canada, historic Halifax is fabulous destination for travelers of all persuasions, with plenty to offer in an exciting port city environment.

  • 11 reviews
  • 3 stories/tips
  • 9 photos
The Halifax waterfront and its immediate vicinity offer a wide variety of shopping, dining and night life possibilities. By day, enjoy the sumptuous seafood and entertaining buskers who politely ply their trade along the waterfront with fiddles, bagpipes and an ecclectic collection of entertaining antics and gadgets for sale. In the evening, enjoy stops at the downtown pubs, where you can meet friendly locals and enjoy Atlantic Canada's well-touted and well-loved Alexander Keith's beer, a Halifax original.

Quick Tips:

Halifax International Airport has bus service to town, but it is a fair piece of mileage and a rental car is a handy option to explore the region -- particularly since rental cars tend to be reasonable in Canada.

Best Way To Get Around:

The best approach to the Halifax waterfront is to explore on foot. Municipal bus and harbor ferry service is available for .50, going as far as you can go in any one direction by either mode. Be sure to obtain a transfer. Driving in downtown Halifax is not fun and the constriction of having two bridges connecting Dartmouth to Halifax can make things even more challenging when special events are underway. If you can, save the rental car for more substantial excursions, rather than looking for parking spots downtown during business hours.
Best Western Glengarry
This is a very comfortable, 90-unit hotel with a friendly staff and very good-sized, clean, comfortable rooms. We enjoyed a seafood dish in the dining room that obviously made use of fresh, local ingredients. Unlike some hotels where locals steadfastly shun the restaurant, this one is obviously part of the community where it resides. We found Truro a great place to stage day trips along the Bay of Fundy coast or up to the picturesque small community of Pictou -- a neat place to visit in its own right which also offers ferry service to Prince Edward Island.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 4, 2000

Best Western Glengarry Hotel
150 Willow Street Halifax, Nova Scotia
(902) 893-1759

What can you say about airport hotels? Well, in this case, we give it good marks and agree with the 3+ star rating. There is an excellent, free, 24-hour shuttle service to the airport and the staff we met was extra nice. Rates are typical for the convenience (I've expressed them in U.S. dollars). Keep in mind that Halifax International Airport is quite a distance from the city, so for late arrivals and early departures, this hotel is a good choice. In those situations, you may also choose to pick up a rental car the day after you arrive or drop off the night before departure, potentially saving a day of rental costs. There is a monitor in the lobby showing arrivals and departures for the airport and while the distance is not far from the terminal, it is far enough to keep the airport noise from being a factor.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 4, 2000

Airport Hotel Halifax
60 Bell Blvd. Halifax, Nova Scotia
1(800) 667-3333

Holiday Inn Harbourview
The Holiday Inn Harbourview in Dartmouth offers ready access to the Halifax waterfront via passenger ferry service just down the hill and access to the bus system across the street. The view from the balconies of the higher floors over the harbor is a nice touch and worth calling the hotel directly to secure. There is an outdoor swimming pool and a restaurant. (We found the restaurant to be outstanding, by the way -- not your typical "frozen deep-fried" type of hotel fare at all.) We found the staff to be very friendly and helpful, but that is very typical of Maritime Canada.

Get a complete listing of activities, suggested travel routes and lodgings throughout Nova Scotia by ordering the Nova Scotia Doers and Dreamer Guide online at: http://www.explore.gov.ns.ca/

We've visited the Halifax Harbourview several times; most recently in August 2004 during the Tall Ships festival in Halifax July 29 to August 2. (Book EARLY if you want to be anywhere in the greater Halifax area during festival times because things can fill up.)

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on September 29, 2000

Holiday Inn Harbourview
Windmill Road Halifax, Nova Scotia

McKelvie'sBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

If you long for a great lunch in wonderful surroundings or a more gourmet evening experience, McKelvie's is an outstanding choice. There is a full menu of excellent seafood, pastas, chowders and other selections. The building itself is a rather upscale renovation of a former firehouse, but you'd never guess that from being inside. The dining room features large windows and it is very nicely done. There is also an outdoor patio that is a very nice choice, in season.

Meals are well presented and so they look as good as they taste. Our top lunch or dinner choice for those who might have trouble deciding: The 'Too Good Fish Fry', an outstanding array of fresh seafood that is excellently prepared. But don't feel bad if you only opt for the standard fish & chips; it's wonderful. For an appetizer, the bacon wrapped Digby scallops are absolutely decadent.

At just a block up from the Halifax waterfront and convenient to the ferry terminal, McKelvie's is a 'can't miss' pick for one of your first dining stops in Halifax (and like us, you may just find yourself returning again and again.)
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on September 29, 2000

McKelvie's
1680 Lower Water St Halifax, Nova Scotia B3J 2Y3
+1 902 421 6161

Bluenose II CafeBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Lobster Time
Want to eat with the locals, have a cup of coffee, read a newspaper and joke with down-home wait staff? Try this nothing-special place a block up from the Ferry Terminal up Duke Street and you'll find the Bluenose II Cafe on your left. This is not a truck stop, but it could be, if you put it on a highway with a parking lot -- right down to the cigarettes for sale at the cash register. There is a place for fine dining in travel, but there is a place for stick-to-your ribs local food with local people and a good conversation. This is one of those places -- and they didn't mind digging out a live lobster for breakfast for this appreciative traveler either.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on September 29, 2000

Bluenose II Cafe
1824 Hollis Street Halifax, Nova Scotia
(902) 425-5092

Okay, we admit we've gone a little far afield here from Halifax, but if you're auto touring more of Nova Scotia and the Maritimes, here's a road less traveled and you'll want to bring your appetite. All along the North shore of the Bay of Fundy from Parrsboro to Truro, you will find little mom & pop seafood 'restaurants' where you can enjoy some of the finest fresh seafood imaginable at very little cost. The exteriors of these places can make you wonder; some may even be in mobile homes. Get over it and go inside. You will meet some of the friendliest people on earth serving fabulous fresh seafood! These people know how to prepare things and they have plenty to choose from: clams, scallops, lobster, flounder and more. It's DELICIOUS and it's a beautiful drive, too. We took the Springhill exit off Highway 104, headed down to Parrsboro and then took the coastline back to Truro. If you love seafood, you will be in Seventh Heaven.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 4, 2000

North Shore, Bay of Fundy
Parrsboro - Truro Halifax, Nova Scotia

The Old TriangleBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

The Old Triangle is a place to put on your "A" list if you're looking for one of the best and most authentic Irish pub experiences going. It's a comfortable place with great servers and a full menu that features some of the wonderful local seafood, along with a selection of salads, chicken wings and even a few vegetarian choices. Their slogan of "Food for the body, drink for the spirit, and music for the soul" is aptly played out in their three rooms, plus two streetside terraces.

In addition to outstanding beers and well-prepared pub fare, the front room is frequently the place to catch some excellent, authentic Celtic musicians. It is truly a joy to listen to the fiddles, drums, hammer dulcimers and other traditional instruments being played well by people who are brought up in the wonderful Acadian musical tradition and keep it alive by sharing this gift with visitors, neighbors, family and friends. There is live music just about every day and evening, so call ahead to find out what is on tap, besides the beer. We walked into an eight-piece group on our last visit and it was truly fabulous. (While it would be well worth it, there is never a cover charge.) In short, we put The Old Triangle into the "not to be missed" category.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on August 5, 2004

The Old Triangle
5136 Prince Street Halifax, Nova Scotia
(902) 492-4900

The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is a must-see collection for those who love ships of the sea. There is a fabulous group of large-scale models, along with video programs on many historic Halifax region disasters over the years -- only one of which was the Titanic. The rich 250-year history of Halifax as a hard-working shipping port is is excellently recounted at this museum and it is background that is critical to truly understanding the significance of this important front door to Canada.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on September 29, 2000

Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
1675 Lower Water Street Halifax, Nova Scotia B3J 1S3
(902) 424-7490

Peggy's CoveBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Lighthouse at Peggy's Cove
If you absolutely NEED to get a few shots of a picturesque-looking fishing village or a white lighthouse on a rocky outcropping, then by all means, make the jaunt down to Peggy's Cove. If you want to save time and you're not really a photo buff, you may choose to find a less-overrated place to go. There's really not much there beyond a whole lot of tourists. Nova Scotia is full of beautiful discoveries, but the over-photographed Peggy's Cove is probably not one of them. (Then again, I got some nice shots there myself.....)
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on September 29, 2000

Peggy's Cove
(45 minutes down the Halifax shoreline) Halifax, Nova Scotia

Confederation Bridge
While it would be easy to be content with the sights, sounds and flavors of Halifax, there are many side trips that can be worked into a trip to the Maritimes. One of the most popular is Prince Edward Island, the land of 'Anne of Green Gables'. It is approximately a 3-1/2 drive from the outskirts of Halifax to Charlottetown, P.E.I and while the ferry service to the island is still intact, a new choice has been made available since 1998. It is the 8-mile long Confederation Bridge, stretching across the Northumberland Strait from Cape Tormentine, New Brunswick to Borden, P.E.I. Cost-wise, the toll for the bridge is approximately the same as taking the ferry (approximately $28 Canadian, if I recall correctly). The Island is a popular tourist destination, as is the New Brunswick coastline in this area, where there are some excellent beaches along the coast of the strait. A popular stop on the mainland side of the strait is Shediac, New Brunswick, 'The Lobster Capital of the World'. Shediac is a busy place in the summer and there are many accommodations available, including a lot of Bed & Breakfast establishments.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Jim Rosenberg on October 3, 2000

Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island
Northumberland Strait Halifax, Nova Scotia

Fresh Seafood
With a population of around a million combined, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Prince Edward Island offer striking natural beauty and Maritime flavor filled with picturesque seascapes, wild salmon rivers and fresh lobsters boiling in the pots of quaint seaside restaurants in fishing villages up and down their coastlines.

Around a quarter of the population of the Maritimes resides in the greater Halifax area, the economic, political and cultural center of Atlantic Canada. Paired with Dartmouth along either side of a magnificent natural harbor, Halifax cuts an impressive skyline and features an inviting waterfront. Its strategic location on the North Atlantic makes it an attractive destination for visitors from all over the world by land and by sea. Halifax is the northern-most ice-free port on the western Atlantic and the city is pleased to roll out the red carpet with a wide variety of entertainment, dining, lodging and sight-seeing options. With a rich tradition stretching back more than 250 years, historic Halifax makes a fitting front door to Canada.

Seafood lovers won't be disappointed with the fabulous array, with cold-water lobster heading the long list. For a low-cost, stick-to-your-ribs kind of food, try poutine -- a dish that is so popular that you will even find it in some the McDonald's of eastern Canada. Poutine consists of french fries topped with melted cheese and beef gravy; a cardiologist's nightmare perhaps, but it's very good, very filling and VERY Canadian.

History buffs will enjoy the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Included in the collection is an authentic deck chair from the Titanic. Around 150 victims of the disaster are buried in three Halifax cemeteries.

For those looking to range a bit beyond the region of the provincial capital, consider devoting a day and a night or two toward seeing the Cape Breton Highlands, an impressive national park with breaktaking views. Whale-watching tours are available and there are plenty of places to stay, particularly for those who enjoy the 'bed & breakfast' type of experience.

One of my regular stops is the Town of Truro, past the airport exit and about an hour from Halifax. It's probably nothing special to most; one never knows exactly what causes that special familiarity to develop with a place. In May, there is an annual tulip festival (and weather permitting, it will even feature tulips). But the real treat is the 1,000 acre Victoria Park which is right in town and features beautiful walking trails, long staircases up steep embankments and picturesque waterfalls.

For a travel value with plenty to do, plenty of charm and a lot to see that is north of the tourist crushes and high prices of popular U.S. destinations, Halifax and the Maritimes are well worth investigating.
If you're coming to Canada from the U.S., your transition to Canadian money will be a simple one that does not require much advance planning. Unless you have a bank that really specializes in making Canadian currency exchanges, you are probably better off not bothering to exchange any money prior to your arrival in Canada. The reason is that many banks attach flat fees for currency exchanges and also have a spread between what they sell the currency for and what they will pay to buy it back. Spreads and fees almost invariably add up to far more than ATM fees would for similarly valued transactions and there is simply no reason to pay them if you can avoid it.

ATMs are found virtually everywhere in Canada and that is your first choice for obtaining Canadian currency. (If you use a debit card, be sure to check with your financial institution or have a backup plan). Most businesses in Canada accept credit cards and you will receive your most favorable exchange rate by going that route, rather than drawing cash for expenses. The reason is that while purchases involve a "grace period" on your bill, cash advances do not. Many card issuers are now adding a percent or two for foreign currency transactions. It's not a good thing, but nothing to get overly concerned about either. The exchange rate you see in the newspaper each day involves large, interbank transactions. Your bill will be converted at close to that rate. All things considered, the extra add-ons will still leave you far ahead of the typical retail-level currency booth transaction.

While many businesses in Canada will also accept U.S. money, it's generally not a good idea for you because the exchange rate is often not the best. Travelers checks? While you can certainly use them if that is your practice; they can present a hassle to convert to cash and they may also involve a flat fee to transact. On the occasions I've used them, I've purchased them in the currency of the country where I'm planning to spend them. This enables the checks to be transacted directly for purchases (where they are accepted), rather than requiring a stop at a bank.

Finally, the lowest denomination of paper money in Canada is $5, since coins are minted for $1 (the Loonie) and $2 (the Toonie) amounts. In any foreign country, you should endeavor to use up your coins before leaving; often only paper currency can be converted back into U.S. dollars.

Save your receipts for lodging and any retail purchases that total more than $50. You can get a refund on some or all the General Sales Tax (GST), Provincial Sales Tax (PST) or Harmonized Sales Tax (HST). The amount of the tax and the portion to be refunded varies by province. You can claim the refund by filling out a form that you can find online at:

http://www.rc.gc.ca/visitors/ -- fill out the form and mail it in with ORIGINAL receipts and your boarding pass showing your flight leaving Canada (proof of export is required to claim the refund). If you are leaving by car, you can take care of your refund at the duty-free store at the border. Do NOT use commercial services, which often display brochures or run ads in visitor guides. The fees are outrageous and the claim form is very easy to complete and submit.

While you should always be careful with money and alert to unsafe situations, no special safeguards beyond what you would normally take while traveling in the U.S. are required in Canada. It's as "safe" a place as there is.

Tall Ships in Halifax
In 2000, we visited the Tall Ships celebration in Halifax, which culminated in the last day's Parade of Sail. A quarter million people watched dozens of tall ships cast off with wind-filled sails from historic Halifax Harbour on their way to their final tour destination in Amsterdam. During the visit, thousands of visitors had the opportunity to board these fabulous vessels and meet their young crew members, who are actually part of cadet leadership programs that comprise many different nations.

The fine detail of these beautiful ships is difficult to describe. Their visit to this famous Maritime city will be a huge celebration (so anyone planning to visit will need to book flights, rooms and rental cars early). But despite the magnitude of the event and the fact that the city will be booked to bursting, Halifax and its cross-harbour neighbor, Dartmouth, will be ready for its guests and there will be plenty of activities to keep people enjoying themselves.

In addition to the Tall Ships, the Acadian celebration will feature authentic musical performances on the Halifax waterfront and the city's popular brewery, Alexander Keith's, is sponsoring other activities as part of Natal Day. In short, the red carpet will be rolled out and it would be difficult to imagine a better time to visit Halifax than this summer, during the visit of the Tall Ships!

For information on the Tall Ships, visit this website. (Back out to simply www.novascotia.com and order a "Doers and Dreamers Guide" to begin planning the details of your trip. It is one of the finest and most complete visitor guides I've seen.)

See you in Halifax this summer for the Tall Ships! (No, I don't work for the tourism department. It's just a GREAT event!)

About the Writer

Jim Rosenberg
Jim Rosenberg
Wausau, Wisconsin

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