A May 2000 trip
to Treviso by Barb B
Quote: Treviso is one of the Veneto's best kept secrets. A miniature Venice, laced with canals, swans, and mossy walls. Just a 15 minute drive from the Venice airport, it offers a calm place to "rest up" after the long journey from the US. Famous for radicchio, cherries and Benneton clothes, it offers A pleasant stay and a VERY short train ride to Venice!
It is very close to Venice (only about a 15 minute drive) from the airport, so we pick up a rental car at the airport, drive to Treviso and rest for a day or two.
Treviso is a wonderful, little City with a quaint small town atmosphere. Famous for cherries, radicchio and Benetton clothing, it is an ancient walled city, laced with canals from the Sile river. Many attractive buildings of marble, decorated with frescos dating from the 1300's to 1500's. Treviso was hard hit during World War II, but rebuilding has restored most of the city's old beauty.
A stroll along the outside ot the city walls beside the Sile river with it's wide moats, willow trees and swans has calming effect for the weary traveller. Definitely a satisfying rest-stop.
If you plan to visit Venice, but don't want to hassle with a car, leave your car at your hotel in Treviso and take the train to Venice. Train fare is about per person each way and definitely worth avoiding the hassle of parking.
Member Rating 2 out of 5 on September 28, 2000
Via Sant Antonino 300
Hotel | "Al Fogher"
Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 28, 2000
Best Western Hotel Al Fogher
Viale Della Repubblica, 10
Treviso, Italy 31100
Via Postumia 25
When we arrived, we were greeted at the arched doorway by the owner. Obviously Salvatore had called ahead and announced our intention to visit.
Our party of four was led to a round table near the center of the inviting dining room. Here, we could preview the parade of sumptuous platters as they were delivered to other tables.
Rich wood-beam ceiling, pale green walls and brass vases with enormous bouquests of bright yellow sun flowers created an ambiance of simple elegance.
A surprizingly long wine list included local and nonregional wines by the glass or bottle. We selected local white wines and decided to share a huge antipasto platter as our first course: Asiago, Peccorino and Vezzena cheeses; thinly sliced salumis, panchetta and gorgous marinated calamatta olives heaped on a colorful hand-painted platter.
The blackboard menu announced daily specials of typical flavors of the Veneto: Pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans), seasonal risotto, homemade pastas, marinated swordfish and grilled vegetables. I was especially pleased with my selection, "Pesce in saor". A delightfully fragrant sole, sauteed in a sauce of onion, vinegar, pine nuts and raisins. Just the right contrast of sweet and tangy!
Service was attentive without being intrusive. We finished with glasses of prosecco (a local sparkling wine, similar to champagne) and tiramisu - the fantastic sweet blend of mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers and coffee, dusted with powdered cocoa.
We complimented our host on his fine establishment and returned to our hotel to thank Salvatore for his wonderful recommendation.
Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 18, 2000
Ristorantino Piatto in Fiera
Via IV Novembre 83
Nowhere is this more readily recognized that at the city's daily market. It is here, near the Pecheria that every morning except Sunday, the local women meet to visit with friends and select the very freshest ingredients for the meals they will prepare for their families that day. Row after row of gorgeous peaches, apples and grapefruits all washed and shined are lovingly placed by their vendors. Local area specialties such as white asperagus, cherries and plump heads of radicchio lettuce, all perfectly formed and trimmed, are displayed in huge baskets and wooden crates along the Via Trevisi and Via Pescheria near the east end of town.
The Pescheria (fish market) was built in 1851 and is located on the 'isoletta' (little island) which reaches out into the Botteniga waterway near the end of the Marketplace. An ever changing display of the magnificent bounty of the Adriatic: mussels, clams, shrimp and an endless variety of swimming fish. Each morning, groups of stocky fishermen arrive, hauling in their daily catch and confirming that the Veneto region is truly blessed with its location.
The sound of the waterwheel at the end of the market area offers a calming relief from the bustle of the marketplace as the water flows downward along the Botteniga. It is here that my husband and I sit, enjoing the warmth of June's early morning sun, while watching the daily parade of Treviso residents.
Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 29, 2000
Local Market and Pecheria
The Pallazzo dei Trecento (Palace of the three hundred) is the only surviving palace of the old comune. Adjacent, one finds the Palazzo del Podesta, Monte di Pieta and the Torre Civica (Civic Tower)looms overall. The Monti di Pieta contains walls of gilt leather with painted beamed ceilings.
As you continue along the Piazza, you will see a detached fresco of the 'Madonna della Carceri' on the site of the old prison near the Church of Santa Lucia.
Italian legend tells us that the size and opulence of a towns' Duomo reflects directly upon the sins of the citizenry, since many felt that one could attone for their sins, by 'paying for their sins.' This being the case, Treviso must have had a very sordid past!
The elegant main street leads to the square of the Venetian Romanesque Duomo, with its cluster of domes and the adjacent baptistry. The renaissance tombs of departed bishops and abbots amid the magnificant art, frescoes and marble reliefs offer a glimpse of the wealth of Treviso is the 1200's.
Weary after our walk, we sit on the steps of the Church of Santa Lucia amid the locals waiting at the bus stop. We watch as a flower vendor parks his truck near the foot of the stairs and local women rush to buy fresh flowers to take into the church. There, they place bouquets or single buds at the feet of the statues of their favorite saints.
Most buildings are open Mon-Sat 9 to 12:30 and 3 to 6.
Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 2, 2000
Piazza dei Signori and the Duomo
Piazza de Signori
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